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Thread: Max wheel/tyre size for Gen 1 MPS 3

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by vphat View Post
    can we go 18x8 + 35? is there a chance at all?
    Minimum legal offset is +40 - the legal offset change is -12.5mm (max track change is +25mm - lower offset increases track), the OEM offset is +52.5
    No chance legally, and no chance in terms of hitting guards and cutting your tyres up, which can and does happen at +48 offset, especially so on lowered vehicles.

    No chance at all.
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Federal RS-RR - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold - Hypertech tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - PC based GPS and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift.

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    RedDjinn is offline Slip stream
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nexus View Post
    Minimum legal offset is +40 - the legal offset change is -12.5mm (max track change is +25mm - lower offset increases track), the OEM offset is +52.5
    No chance legally, and no chance in terms of hitting guards and cutting your tyres up, which can and does happen at +48 offset, especially so on lowered vehicles.

    No chance at all.
    If you want to miss your guards when lowering, this has not been done 'I think' other than me............. Take 3mm off the hub of your rotors! What this does is offset your wheel offset and make it safer on your wheel studs as there less likey to snap.. Im only running 18x8.5 +48 and i got rubbing on the rear when in a fast hard corner BUT not anymore

    The Brembo BBK i got the front rotors were 2.5mm thinner than stock
    Last edited by RedDjinn; 08-12-2012 at 03:35 PM.
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    vphat.

    Gen 1 or Gen 2?


    I had that set-up on my Gen 1 with 235/40 rubber and even with rolled guards at the rear I would suffer rubbing anytime I would go hard around corners, too fast over sharp bumps or the worst case scenario was having people in the back seats, then rubbing would be happening pretty much for anything regardless how careful or easy you would try to drive.


    My guards were a mild roll so I would say that to make it work you need more than mild rolled guards, maybe getting them a little pumped.
    CES "SS" TBE | SURE "Aeros" SRI | SURE "Sidewinder" TIP | SURE "Return" Recirc Hose | CUSTOM "PWR Core" FMIC | Hypertech "Tuned" | Turbosmart "Atmo" BOV | MSD DashHawk | CP-e REM | SURE "Anchors" Shifter Bushings | JBR SSP and Weight | JBR Heavy Knob |Redline Hood Quick LIFT ELITE | TEIN "SS" Coilovers | Front - Rear HOTCHKIS Swaybars | Front - Rear DBA 4000 Slotted Rotors | A1RM Brake Pads | 18x8 +45 Tenzo-R Cuzco Black V1 | 235/40/18 Michelin Pilot Super Sport | Safe n' Sound baby Seat lol

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    vphat is offline Junior Member
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    but u were on 235 for that setup, why didnt u go 215 stretch it abit though its illegal but would be okay

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    Quote Originally Posted by vphat View Post
    though its illegal but would be okay
    Mate going to +35 moves your outside sidewall out 17.5mm at the shoulder if you have 215 fitted.
    225 at +48 moves the shoulder outward 9.5mm and that can rub.
    Add another 8mm outward movement of the shoulder and you're cutting your tyre up on the gaurds

    Illegal and not OK.

    Do yourself a favour : get a calculator and make an effort to understand what offset is, how you are changing things with a fitment and then measure things out. It's not black magic.

    I've watched people spiel bullshit time and time again about what can fit and how it never rubs, and even been abused for calling them out on blatantly false statements about you can and can't do.

    235/40 +45 is the widest, lowest offset you can reasonably fit with aggressive rolling of the gaurds....lowest legal offset of +40 will need the guards pumped. If you want to do something illegal and crazy try to remember that there are other people on the road, and please don't create false illusions in what are supposed to be informative threads about what you can reasonably fit just because it's something you want to do and want someone to tell you it's OK.

    It's not OK without significant re-engineering. If you want to go the whole hog with engineering certificates and pumped guards etc you can do it if you throw enough money at it.

    If you want to know what you can fit without fairly radical work, then 235/40R18 on 18x8+45 is it. I would tell you to do yourself a favour and find a +48 wheel.
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Federal RS-RR - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold - Hypertech tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - PC based GPS and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift.

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    well im just asking and saying, i get your information that you given but it was just a thought of mind, how i was saying it...

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    Default Re: Max wheel/tyre size for Gen 1 MPS 3

    http://www.willtheyfit.com/

    Hey vphat check that website out. Hope it helps.

    Sent From A Galaxy2. IPhone Sucks. Using Tapatalk2

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    Default Max wheel/tyre size for Gen 1 MPS 3

    And JapCrap could also point out that he is successfully running 19x9 +42 on with 235 section rubber ...... and the world hasn't ended.

    Soo.......

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    Quote Originally Posted by SMOKEY View Post
    And JapCrap could also point out that he is successfully running 19x9 +42 on with 235 section rubber ...... and the world hasn't ended.

    Soo.......
    But I notice he hasn't pointed that out. From the specs you just provided I can tell you it's probably illegal : not because the tyre certainly rubs, but because the wheel face will sit outside the guards - no part of the tyre or wheel fitment is permitted to sit outside the gaurds unless that's how it comes stock. A plumbline from the guard will tell you for sure.

    I can also bet that he's on 235/35. It's worth noting that smaller diameters will rub _less_ but ultimately the location of the outside sidewall is where the real problems arise regardless.

    I know his are sitting +6mm +5mm = +11mm further out than mine. I am still making adjustments to ensure mine with 225 and +48 don't rub. Add another 11mm and he'll need much more adjustment to avoid rubbing.

    Additional camber helps. Smaller diameter helps. Very, very aggressive rolling of the guards, perhaps a subtle flare even _might_ get his under the guards without rubbing.

    I'm fairly confident that a vertical plumb from the guard at that fitment will foul the wheel face if not the sidewall. Show us a pic of it parked on the level with a plumbline from the guard.

    If you define illegal but not rubbing much as successful, then you can call it successful, but it doesn't make it legal, and it doesn't make it a good recommendation.
    People ask for advice and get illegal and sometimes outright stupid recommendations unless someone steps up and says it like it is.

    I do understand the 215 at +35 idea was just a thought. It was also a thought presented as "would be OK"

    If someone is going to recommend a fitment as being OK in a thread where people come for good advice, then the assessment needs to be based on objective measurement and observation and strict interpretation of what is permissible, not subjective hope and liberal interpretation of what is "OK".

    Comparing it to the world ending is a great example of taking non factual information and framing it to minimize and ridicule a valid point. It's a pathological thought process, soo....

    If you're going to make a point, try to make sure you have a point to make.

    Sorry for being a hardcase. Hey, I've got a picture on my phone of an S2000 with a lowered fitment like that. Looks good, right up until the moment he starts it and tries to drive over an undulation at an intersection. Then all of a sudden he looks like an idiot and when you look closely you see that he can't go anywhere without rubbing and look closer still you see his guards are damaged and starting to rust from constantly fouling the tyre. Successful? The world hasn't ended yet, so by your arguments, perhaps so???

    Again, if anyone asks me I'll tell them the limits as below. 235 on +45 is pushing it a bit close. I reinterate - do yourself a favour and find a +48 wheel.
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Federal RS-RR - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold - Hypertech tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - PC based GPS and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift.

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    Default Max wheel/tyre size for Gen 1 MPS 3

    Quote Originally Posted by SMOKEY View Post
    And JapCrap could also point out that he is successfully running 19x9 +42 on with 235 section rubber ...... and the world hasn't ended.

    Soo.......
    @PremHK ran my GenII rims (18x7.5) with 245s semi-slicks
    Seems alright to me


    Peter "SLIXX"

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    Default Max wheel/tyre size for Gen 1 MPS 3

    Can anyone tell me, what is the max width for a mps 6? Some one in the earlier comments said 255, but that doesnt sound right.

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    Default Re: Max wheel/tyre size for Gen 1 MPS 3

    Quote Originally Posted by Nexus View Post
    But I notice he hasn't pointed that out. From the specs you just provided I can tell you it's probably illegal : not because the tyre certainly rubs, but because the wheel face will sit outside the guards - no part of the tyre or wheel fitment is permitted to sit outside the gaurds unless that's how it comes stock. A plumbline from the guard will tell you for sure.

    I can also bet that he's on 235/35. It's worth noting that smaller diameters will rub _less_ but ultimately the location of the outside sidewall is where the real problems arise regardless.

    I know his are sitting +6mm +5mm = +11mm further out than mine. I am still making adjustments to ensure mine with 225 and +48 don't rub. Add another 11mm and he'll need much more adjustment to avoid rubbing.

    Additional camber helps. Smaller diameter helps. Very, very aggressive rolling of the guards, perhaps a subtle flare even _might_ get his under the guards without rubbing.

    I'm fairly confident that a vertical plumb from the guard at that fitment will foul the wheel face if not the sidewall. Show us a pic of it parked on the level with a plumbline from the guard.

    If you define illegal but not rubbing much as successful, then you can call it successful, but it doesn't make it legal, and it doesn't make it a good recommendation.
    People ask for advice and get illegal and sometimes outright stupid recommendations unless someone steps up and says it like it is.

    I do understand the 215 at +35 idea was just a thought. It was also a thought presented as "would be OK"

    If someone is going to recommend a fitment as being OK in a thread where people come for good advice, then the assessment needs to be based on objective measurement and observation and strict interpretation of what is permissible, not subjective hope and liberal interpretation of what is "OK".

    Comparing it to the world ending is a great example of taking non factual information and framing it to minimize and ridicule a valid point. It's a pathological thought process, soo....

    If you're going to make a point, try to make sure you have a point to make.

    Sorry for being a hardcase. Hey, I've got a picture on my phone of an S2000 with a lowered fitment like that. Looks good, right up until the moment he starts it and tries to drive over an undulation at an intersection. Then all of a sudden he looks like an idiot and when you look closely you see that he can't go anywhere without rubbing and look closer still you see his guards are damaged and starting to rust from constantly fouling the tyre. Successful? The world hasn't ended yet, so by your arguments, perhaps so???

    Again, if anyone asks me I'll tell them the limits as below. 235 on +45 is pushing it a bit close. I reinterate - do yourself a favour and find a +48 wheel.
    For the record im running 245/35 tyres on my 19s. Good size sidewalls. No rubbing and NO it's not sitting outside the guards. You want proof come check it out yourself. On the other hand I do have 18s 18x 9.5 +45 on 235/40. Now that sticks out about 2mm outside the guards. From what I got told any offset besides the manufacturers spec is illegal because even a +/- 1 would change the characteristic of the car

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    Default Max wheel/tyre size for Gen 1 MPS 3

    Quote Originally Posted by JapCrap View Post
    For the record im running 245/35 tyres on my 19s. Good size sidewalls. No rubbing and NO it's not sitting outside the guards. You want proof come check it out yourself. On the other hand I do have 18s 18x 9.5 +45 on 235/40. Now that sticks out about 2mm outside the guards. From what I got told any offset besides the manufacturers spec is illegal because even a +/- 1 would change the characteristic of the car

    Sent From A Galaxy2. IPhone Sucks. Using Tapatalk2
    And I'm running 245/40 on 19x8
    Lowered in Eibach Pro springs and Koni FSDs. About 3cm



    Although I think GenIIs are different to GenIs in how wide of a tyre it can take
    This is @PremHK GenI running on 245/40 on 18x7.5




    Peter "SLIXX"
    Last edited by slixx; 14-12-2012 at 11:34 AM.

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    Default Max wheel/tyre size for Gen 1 MPS 3

    Max wheel/tyre size for Gen 1 MPS 3-imageuploadedbytapatalk1355452368.719413.jpg

    Here is 19x8.5 +42 not sticking out of guards.

    (And Slixx is right, bk gaurds less accommodating than BL)

    Guess its just one of those times where a bunch of bullshit can't change reality....

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    Quote Originally Posted by SMOKEY View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1355452368.719413.jpg 
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    Guess its just one of those times where a bunch of bullshit can't change reality....

    Bahahaha

    !
    CES "SS" TBE | SURE "Aeros" SRI | SURE "Sidewinder" TIP | SURE "Return" Recirc Hose | CUSTOM "PWR Core" FMIC | Hypertech "Tuned" | Turbosmart "Atmo" BOV | MSD DashHawk | CP-e REM | SURE "Anchors" Shifter Bushings | JBR SSP and Weight | JBR Heavy Knob |Redline Hood Quick LIFT ELITE | TEIN "SS" Coilovers | Front - Rear HOTCHKIS Swaybars | Front - Rear DBA 4000 Slotted Rotors | A1RM Brake Pads | 18x8 +45 Tenzo-R Cuzco Black V1 | 235/40/18 Michelin Pilot Super Sport | Safe n' Sound baby Seat lol

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    Default Re: Max wheel/tyre size for Gen 1 MPS 3

    GIO is going to love this thread

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    Default Re: Max wheel/tyre size for Gen 1 MPS 3

    Quote Originally Posted by SMOKEY View Post
    And JapCrap could also point out that he is successfully running 19x9 +42 on with 235 section rubber ...... and the world hasn't ended.

    Soo.......
    The world might end tomorrow so I thought I might post this.





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    RedDjinn is offline Slip stream
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    Just cuz it fits doesnt make it good or safe!

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    Default Max wheel/tyre size for Gen 1 MPS 3

    Now there you go just being silly..... :-p

    When my new wheels arrive on the slow boat from Japan - i will post my next upgrade just for shits n giggles - 17x8 with 235's going to 20x11 and 285s.....just cos they fit.

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    Default Max wheel/tyre size for Gen 1 MPS 3

    Quote Originally Posted by SMOKEY View Post
    Now there you go just being silly..... :-p

    When my new wheels arrive on the slow boat from Japan - i will post my next upgrade just for shits n giggles - 17x8 with 235's going to 20x11 and 285s.....just cos they fit.
    Thata boy. Looking for stance are we?


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    Quote Originally Posted by JapCrap View Post
    The world might end tomorrow so I thought I might post this.

    Hahahaha

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    I'm currently looking at replacing a fairly conservative 225/45R18 on 18x7.5+48 fitment on my BK MPS3 and searching through the forum to gauge how much trouble the candidate fitments are likely to be. I'm actually wanting to push it further than the conservative fitment I originally ran with - and keep it legal and without rubbing. Exactly what this thread is all about - take it closer to the width limits.

    This was always a contentious subject and I have no apology to make for leaning to the conservative. Discussion always seemed to include a great deal of assertions that are complete horseshit. To be clear, I'm NOT saying the 19x9+42 fitment is horseshit. My motivations for that last post - five years ago now (!) - were to ensure that the information provided was accurate.

    The last few responses are quite interesting.

    re: The 19x9+42 image:Max wheel/tyre size for Gen 1 MPS 3-za5uqy5y-1-.jpg
    (1) The suggested test was a plumb-line dropped from the guard while parked on a level surface, not a ruler against the guard. The flat surface on the guard is flat but not necessarily vertical, particularly if the guard has been rolled or pulled. So while the image shows you'd probably get away with it, it doesn't show that is a certain pass.

    Likewise the 19x8.5+42 image demonstrates even less - at least when it comes to the assertion that it clears a pumbline:Max wheel/tyre size for Gen 1 MPS 3-imageuploadedbytapatalk1355452368.719413.jpg
    The problem with both of these images is the use of a ruler against the flat of the guard instead of a plubline, and the probability of parallax error created by the camera perspective. This appears to be visible on the 9" wide fitment which shows what visually appears to be positive camber on the wheel. We can be very confident it's not running positive camber, so we can be equally confident these are not authoritative images. The point to make is to show without question what is legally viable and what is not. Neither of these images show this. the 19x8.5+42 image also shows the parallax error or guard-not-square displacing the ruler because the 18x8.5+42 fitment appears to have less clearance than the 19x9+42.

    This is mathematically impossible and proves without any doubt that neither of these images can be relied on as an authoritative test result. The mocking that followed these images being posted is a good example of why I've taken a slightly conservative stance. Now that I operate this forum, it is even more important to me now that people get accurate information than it was then.

    Yes, they DO show what is certainly the absolute limits you might be able to get away with but they don't prove them to be legal in terms of the under-the-guards test - there remains reasonable doubt.

    A PLUMBLINE dropped from the guard - a tiny sinker at the end of some fishing line - with the sinker sitting just above the ground where it can nestle up near the shoulder of the tyre if necessary (it will be with these fitments) - dropped from the center/top of the guard while parked on a level surface is a test that will be much more accurate.

    Lastly it appears neither of these images show legal fitments because a 1" wider rule applies to the rims. I am considering 8.5" rims for my BK and having done my homework, it looks like I will need to contact the state authority and get approval to fit it because going by the book, 8" wide is the AU legal limit for a BK (released with 7" wide rim) - the saving grace for an 8.5" BK fitment could be the BL series being released with a 7.5" wide rim. There could be some variation in rules state to state, I am checking against VIC law now having moved to VIC this year.

    By the book, neither of these fitments are legal in VIC, and the images provided do not clearly demonstrate anything except that IF they pass, they are the absolute limit. Unfortunately they don't demonstrate that they pass.
    Last edited by Nexus; 27-12-2017 at 07:38 PM.
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Federal RS-RR - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold - Hypertech tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - PC based GPS and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift.

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    Here's the more extreme fitments I am considering. To be frank, thinking this through has nearly convinced me to just recondition the 18x7.5+48 I have and stick with 225/45R18, or go for the known good fitments of 18x8+48 or 18x8+50 with 225/45 or 235/40. Maybe even 245/40. I'm aware of some MPS6 running 245/40R18 on 18x8+50 RX8 wheels. Enkei has some good wheels at these sizes.

    But looking to go further than that, looked at SSR because they make awesome wheels using an excellent manufacturing process and well, just because. Below is all considering street legal and appropriate use and assumes that having done this homework, such a fitment can pass an engineering inspection if required for it to be approved.

    Without getting into the small detail of scrub radius etc, did some research and here's my updated blab on the subject:
    Considerations:
    Offset affects your handling as well as how you're wheels sit on the road. The same tyres fitted at +40 offset will be likely to show torque steer effects and steering wheight effects comapred to OEM +52.5.
    Wide tyre fitments at high offset will risk fouling the suspension. ( A bit of hunting around the net shows 18x8.5+48 rim about 6mm from the strut and fitted with 225/45R18 the tyre clearing springs by about 5mm. 235/40 would not be a good fitment to this rim)
    To minimise unwanted handling effects such as greater torque steer, it's a good idea to keep the inside track of your tyre (the inside edge of the contact patch that happens to be closest to the steering axis) in about the same position. To acheive this, for each 10mm increase in tyre width you should lower the offset 5mm.

    From experience:
    215/45R18 (OEM) --> 225/45R18 fitted to +52.5 OEM rim will show slightly heaver steering. the inside track has moved inward 5mm from stock.
    215/45R18 (OEM) --> 225/45R18 fitted to +48 rims - steering weight about same. No notable negative influences. Rear guards good idea to roll (doesn't touch guard normally but tyre deformation in enthusiastic cornering can move it that mm or two necessary to foul guard lip. example circumstance is a suspension bump mid corner. Also requires plastic trim protruding into rear well from rear "mudflap" trim trimmed back a few mm. 225/40 unlikely to see this issue as diameter of tyre is about 10mm less, meaning there's more clearance to come components.

    My original 18x7.5+48 was chosen as a best fit for 225/45R18 or 225/40. I chose 45 profile because diameter increase = more traction, it makes the speedo more accurate not less (within legal limits), and it looks fat by filling the arches out more. When lowering, care must be taken to avoid the tyres rubbing wheel well trim plastics under heavy compression - i.e. directly above the tyre, and also at steering lock angles in front of the tyre with steering at full lock. Again 225/40 to as much as 245 are less likely to see the same issues due to diameter difference. May see others though.

    offset vs section width formula is expected to give good results up to two width increases (to 235/40 for example)

    As you go to widest possible tyres - say 245/40 this formula is not as helpful and steering effects are theoretically going to become more noticable due to overall section width. The formula also now produces an illegal offset of +37.5 - with small variation around AU, your lowest legal offset is +40. I can't speak from experience (yet) but at these section widths letting the inside track move inwards (heavier steering observed going 215@+52.5 --> 225@+52.5) may prove a desirable geometry change

    For 235/40R18 the formula suggests +42 offset. It's at the boundaries of minimal negative handling effects and I would feel best about 235 at +45, +48 offsets.A
    245/40R18 suggests +38 offfset - not legal and (possibly) inviting the torque steer fairly to dance on your steering wheel. If it fits at all I'd feel best about this at +45 or so.

    So the more aggressive fitments I'm considering moving to are (knowing I might need an engineering ticket to approve the wheel fitment):
    18x8.5 +45 --> 48

    Condidates

    18x8.5+48 SSR GTV02 - look great but will sit too close to the suspension to safely fit 235/40 or higher.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - also look good, semi dish, expected OK for 235/40 and possibly even 245/40.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I really like the idea of fitting something more aggressive, but whether it's practical remains to be seen.
    I need engineering tick in VIC, and I want to know if it's achievable before I buy.

    I'll do a few tests and posts pics using measurements, visible plubline and guidelines again current 18x7.5+48 wheels. I'd really like to think the GTX01 @ +44 are going to pass and be happy with _at least_ 235/40 fitted.
    In the process of working out if this is viable I'll be able to clarify if similar widths at +40 or +42 are viable. I've heard you can pull the guards out a surprisingly long way, so they may well be viable - if you are willing to go through the guard pulling and associated modding pain. I doubt that 9" +42 would ever genuinely pass, but will be able to give a good indication while I'm at it. Happy to prove my expectations wrong there.
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Federal RS-RR - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold - Hypertech tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - PC based GPS and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift.

  24. #74
    ozynigma's Avatar
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    How do you think the 8.5 +44 would fit on a BK with 235 tyres.

    I am contemplating 17 or 18 x 8.5 +40 to +45 and 235 tyres either 235/40/18 or 235/45/17

    Current wheels on the BK I am purchasing are 18x8.75 +38 and they definitely poke as well as having an illegal offset

    A couple of points from the NCoP for light vehicle modifications.

    You can reduce offset by up to 12.5mm. So going up an inch on width and reducing offset by inch puts all of the extra width outwards as poke.

    There is no limit I know of about only going up an inch on rim size. You are allowed to go up to 30% wider on tyre width as long as it fits under the guard.

    Clearance is not measured with a plumb bob. My understanding is that the a straight edge on the face of the wheel must point under the guard. Hence why the stance crowd run big cambers to keep things legal. This makes sense as a wheel will assume different angles at different loads so its quite legitimate for the bottom of the wheel to sit outside the guard under load. They are also playing to another loophole in some jurisdictions where the wheel can protrude as long as the tyre doesn't.
    CX7 - The younger, taller and sexier replacement for the MPS6 and the first car designed around the MZR DISI
    2007 CX7 2.3 DISI AWD Ice Blue | HID's | ETS TMIC | Cobb XLE BOV | CX9 20" wheels | 245/50/20 Scorpion STR's | CS HPFP | CX9 Brakes | Pedders Sports Ryders -40mm | CS Turbo | JBR 3.5" WPI | Cooling Mist WMI |Versatune

  25. #75
    Nexus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozynigma View Post
    How do you think the 8.5 +44 would fit on a BK with 235 tyres.

    I am contemplating 17 or 18 x 8.5 +40 to +45 and 235 tyres either 235/40/18 or 235/45/17

    Current wheels on the BK I am purchasing are 18x8.75 +38 and they definitely poke as well as having an illegal offset

    A couple of points from the NCoP for light vehicle modifications.

    You can reduce offset by up to 12.5mm. So going up an inch on width and reducing offset by inch puts all of the extra width outwards as poke.

    There is no limit I know of about only going up an inch on rim size. You are allowed to go up to 30% wider on tyre width as long as it fits under the guard.

    Clearance is not measured with a plumb bob. My understanding is that the a straight edge on the face of the wheel must point under the guard. Hence why the stance crowd run big cambers to keep things legal. This makes sense as a wheel will assume different angles at different loads so its quite legitimate for the bottom of the wheel to sit outside the guard under load. They are also playing to another loophole in some jurisdictions where the wheel can protrude as long as the tyre doesn't.
    G’day!

    I’ve just acquired ssr gtx01 @ 18x8.5+44 and I’m feeling confident 235/40 will be a good fitment.

    From my research 18x8.5+48 with 235 would have high risk of rubbing suspension.

    I’m expecting the wheel face to be almost flush and needing some rear guard work roll and pull.

    Re offset and poke - yep that’s right you are pushing the rim face and outside track out following the suggested width vs offset.

    Only really a suggestion guide up to 235 from 215. Once you're thinking 235 or even wider, should probably let inside track move in slightly (less poke) if possible bearing in mind suspension clearance. for 18x8.5+44 with 235/40 inside track will move inward 1.5mm.

    Re: 1” wider I’ve done some more research and it’s documented in vic but seems to be a guideline and ok provided engineering is sound. Asking around 8.5” will be considered fine and if queried the 7.5” fitment to BL is an engineering reference

    re: Plumb line- yes a bit more research suggests test as described not entirely correct. New understanding is the wheel should not poke out if at 0 camber - that is to say top half of wheel must be under guard.

    Variation to suggested test is to run string across the horizontal centre of the wheel face and drop plum line from guard to wheel centre. Plum line should fall in front of or intersect with horizontal string and not fall behind.

    Deciphering all the guides and rules is not super straightforward and there is some variation state to state




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    Last edited by Nexus; 18-01-2018 at 02:35 PM.
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Federal RS-RR - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold - Hypertech tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - PC based GPS and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift.

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