How's the tune going now? Do you expect to make any more power than you did before or just the same power with the added safety of a stronger bottom end?
Last edited by Reedy; 17-11-2014 at 08:26 AM.
Yea I'll be wanting low down torque figures that would turn the average engine inside out. But you can't just dial that up arbitrarily without running into knock so the end result will probably be no different to what we got with stock internals anyway.
Did you hold back on the old engine at all for this reason? Was there any room to move?
I've never really had any problems with knock as I use meth but it was more to keep the rods in the block and also because of traction. I think 1st to 3rd will always be very limited but a smooth progression or load/torque as far up the rev range as I can get with out making too much heat. Only problem with a flat torque curve is it doesn't feel as fast as you don't get that quick rush. A good reverse taper tune should work well. Plenty of testing and tuning I guess.
Speaking of traction, since I have the new diff going in I want to do away with the steering wheel angle bullcrap. Pulling the fuse is one thing but I don't know if that will screw around with the DSC program. What do you know about that? It can be disabled in VT supposedly but since I will be sticking with ECUTEK I don't know what to do with that.
I wanna be able to go full throttle out of the fishook with nothing limiting me. That oughta tell me pretty quickly if this quaife is any good or not heh.
Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings
What year model is your car @Reedy ? On mine I just long hold the DSC button which disables the SWAS and traction control.
Mines a 2010 model.
I drive with the traction control off. Hitting the DSC button doesn't actually disable the stability control. I've had it kick in and save my ass many a time even with it switched off. All that button does is let me spin my wheels while.
Tried holding the button down on startup and stuff as well and it doesn't seem to have an effect.
Bugger. Your not tempted to switch to the AP or VT?
I would prefer to leave the DSC on tho, it only ever intervenes when I balls something up massively anyway. All I want is to get rid of the SWAS crap!
Strongly tempted to go for AP or VT but I would massively prefer a dyno tune.
This ^^^
A lot of tuners can do remote dyno tunes as well, you just send them a picture of the graph when sending logs
The main differences between a dyno and a road tune is it's easier to see the gains on a dyno, no speeding tickets and someone can listen for knock along with the knock sensor, otherwise, it's the same process...
Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings
Yea, needing to do a number of iterations will be a pain in the ass tho when dyno time is expensive and in demand.
2-3 hours... (About 3-400) Just organise with the tuner for them to be there the entire time, @ozynigma did this with his cx7
Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings
Yep best price I got was $155 per hour and took 3hrs for 2 maps. Highest price quotes was $285 per hour and I think my third quote was $200 per hour.
Any news on your end Rob? Any recent compression tests or tuning news?
No I been meaning to do another compression test but had no time. I've done about 4000kms trouble free thou.