Any guys do this on a regular bases? Your opinions and thoughts on this subject. Does it harm the engine, does it do some good?
Any guys do this on a regular bases? Your opinions and thoughts on this subject. Does it harm the engine, does it do some good?
I rarely go past 5500 Alan, but more-so because I have a stock tune and there's not much point going beyond 5500
Rarely red line engine, power drops off after 6000rpm too much...
Does see 4500-5000 rpm when giving it a bit...
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I occasionally go to 5500 for the noise and backfire...
But the fun is over by 5000, where I usually change.
I redline it at the track all the time, to this day I have still never hit the rev limiter tho.
Also worth noting, at high RPM our tachos are quite out of whack. 7000RPM on my dial is actually about 6450 according to the ECU.
Yeah I barely go to redline the I set the dashhawk to have a shift light at 6100rpm which is about 6400 on the tacho max power is at 6200. Has hit limiter a couple of times awesome noise and the needle goes blue aswell (because of the blue lighting lol).
I do it sometimes, more so as my dad says ' clean out the spiderwebs' i think its good esp after the 5000k break in time. I had a Protege that an old lady owned it was a gutless shit UNTIL i started driving it. It does free up the engine. The Neo i had since new i broke it in, it turned out to be a little gem of an engine. 0-1000ks never past 4500rpm, after 1000ks sometimes to 6000rpm, 5000ks i gave it stick. I have rebuilt a few engines and use this rule with all...
i take it to redline once a week or 2.. dont recommend this everytime you get in the car
Many want Power not many hold it long.........
yep mine goes past 6000RPM often.
I like to think i drive it hard but have respect for it at the same time.
Never when cold and frequent oil changes. and i dont slam the gears.
Thats the reason i bought the car. otherwise i would have got a corolla.
I had my Dashhawk setup for shift indications around 5800rpm, keeping the boot in much past that on my tune didn't really gain much.
Never bounced mine off the limiter but it did see 6000rpm at least weekly.
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After a full day racing me & the guys I go with always comment that their engines feel more willing and powerful on the drive home. We never have a better explanation for it other than "blowing the cobwebs out". Either that or its just some kind of mind trick because we have lost the ability to modulate our throttle inputs after driving flat out all day.
Last edited by Reedy; 02-01-2012 at 07:15 PM.
My friends have always commented on how my cars have a willingness to go even stock, i think its how u drive and break them in.
Just a curiosity question... You name wouldn't happen to be Alan Case, would it?
No Jeev my surname isn't Case.
A look at the torque and BHP should tell you what is appropriate. In stock guise there is not much future in pushing too far beyond the peaks, at around 5500. The engines are so torquey it is more useful performance-wise to be in a new gear and pulling harder from down lower, say 2800 upwards. The occasional "cobweb clean" might seem to help, but is almost as likely to be an apocryphal benefit, and hardly warrants approaching valve bounce. An engine run through the normal rev range is likely to remain healthier in the long run. It is worth remembering that the big killer of all engines is piston speed. With forced induction engines such as these producing such massive power from low rpm, there is not a lot of mileage to be gained (figuratively as well as literally) in running stratospheric rpm and hence piston speeds.
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my experience is pretty much the same as Cton.
i only started revving out the car after my car got tuned, because i now have power going past 4-5k.
I guess I should have added that if you plan on going much past design maximum on a regular basis, whether stock or modded (but unbalanced) it makes sense to ensure that your engine is balanced and blueprinted for the new rpm regime.
Never red line, normally change up around 5800-6000. No point as the power drops off.
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That is not universally true as a lot of people suggest. The actual answer to shifting before the torque falls away is: It depends on what Vmax you are heading for, how much road you have and whether you can make full use of the gear you are shortshifting into.
I did a bunch of analysis on my own cars Dyno figures and came up with this graph, what it factors in gearing ratios and shows the relative torque at the wheels in all gears at any given RPM. (Ignore the units of measure on the Y axis, they are effectively nM reflected through the gear ratios, what matters is the relative values of each)
The takeaway here is that no matter what you do, the torque at the wheels in 2nd gear will never equal first, 3rd will never equal second, 4th starts to come close and you can make a good argument for short shifting into 5th or 6th gear but ONLY IF YOU ARE GOING TO REDLINE IT.
Calculations can get quite complicated when you are trying to do theory runs at certain tracks and trying to maximize gear ratios and torque at the wheels, my spreadsheet also factors in relative speeds at what rpm in what gear and also how shifting gears at any speed translates into engine RPM, that way you can calculate at what point on your torque curve upshifting at any given time will take the engine to.
Basically the conclusion I have come to with the gearing in the Gen II is: Redline it in all gears for maximum performance unless your vmax on the straight exceeds 200km/hr. In that case, short shift out of 4th gear only.
Last edited by Reedy; 04-01-2012 at 06:42 AM.
Thanks for your input guys. Very interesting reading.