I think most or all the above is complete tripe and probably over-analysis of a non-issue.
1st, A BOV, or BPV or whatever you have or wish to call it, as long as it is not "leaking" (i.e faulty), will not influence "power" or "smoothness" for it is not intended to open unless the throttle is closed, when you won't be developing any power anyway. Power on, the pressures above and below the piston are equal, so the piston won't be going anywhere.
2nd, If you are running stock boost then the OEM BOV will not leak when throttle on (unless it is faulty) and it is debatable if it does with higher levels of boost (up to the max recommended of nominally 18psi) anyway.
3rd, As to the "crackle and pop" aspects, a BOV should be set so as to (largely) eliminate backfires which are a sign of an excessively rich unburnt mixture and hence washing your cylinder wall lubricant with raw fuel, and unnecessary sooting up of your cat(s).
4th, A BOV should be tuned heavy enough to eliminate backfires but not so heavy that the turbo stalls because the BOV is not opening sufficiently to do its intended job.
5th, There is just sooooooo much crap written about BOVs but they are pretty simple devices with a pretty simple set of intended and possible functions, yet folks treat them like they are the be all and end all of tuning. I guess it is because they have a little twiddly thing on top that unwise folks can easily get their hands on and play with and get a noise out of which they invariably confuse with enhanced performance. "If it's noisy it must be going better" is a non-sequitur
Last edited by Doug_MPS6; 30-08-2011 at 03:34 PM.
CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18