
Hey guys,
tried to do a seach but the word BOV is too short
What i would like to know, are there any issues with running a non plumb back bov on the car, as in 100% atmo???
If not, then there should be no reason i cant pull the stock plumb back hose off, and block it, there for allowing my stock bov to vent to ATMO
Anyway as a play around we tried this and it seems to work well!! only issue on cold start the car is a lil rough for 10 secs
Can anyone see any real issues running this>

Umm off the top of my head
Every time you change gear (or step off the gas) you will run MEGA rich and probably backfire pretty badly if you rev it hard.
I believe running so rich may damage your cat and cause it to prematurely fail.
If it matters your car will be illegal (at least in Vic but probably in many other states)
If you are just doing this for the noise, may I reccomend a short ram intake? Most of the fun, none of the draw backs... that I know of.

I tried it years ago, sounds great but the factory bov is poo and leaks under vacum, the occossional back fire at closed throttle lol

It will sound better but it will drive terrible. Something about the STD bov makes the gear shifts smoother???? I tried full vta for awhile and put the stocker back on for something and the car was so much nicer to drive. Sold the bov straight away. I did miss the crackle and pop when driving hard- sounded tuff as! No damage caused and 3 years/100k of driving.
Also:: The stock valve blows very slowly and sounds stupid when venting. Grab a proper one if your going to do it. although just to prove my point go and test it lol. you wont do it again.
Last edited by TUFMPS; 11-12-2010 at 04:06 AM.
" if you can't beat 'em join 'em"
New car : FPV FG F6 310

Nepharius is dead right. Forget it, unless you have a piggy back that enables you to incorporate fuel cut. All you'll do in 100% VTA without this measure incorporated is wash your cylinder walls with raw fuel and dilute the cylinder wall lubricant. And have lots of backfires. And soot out your cats. And risk blowing out your exhaust prematurely. None of this is good.
Get a duel port BOV and run it 50:50 for the same sound but no disadvantage.

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CAFFIEND, I think you mean 50:50 with the Turbosmart, not 100% VTA. If so, I agree.

A lot of guys in the states were running like this, short of the occasional pop on gear shifts I don't think it caused too many other issues, I think Doug may be over dramatising the issue a little, these engines are known for having fairly high levels of fuel dilution in their oil due to their DI nature.
The technical reasons as to why this occurs is that you are confusing the MAF sensor, you are allowing metered air to escape the system, which the ECU cant account for and adds fuel for air that isnt there.
Im not sure how technically minded you are, but I will try and explain, the MAF sensor calculates the amount of air coming into the engine for it to set the amount of fuel it needs to inject to maintain a stoichiometric afr, if you vent this air to the atmosphere the ECU has no record of it leaving the system, believes it is still there and adds the required amount of fuel, as the air is not in the system , the fuel added gives you a momentary rich environment, which doesnt completely burn, resulting in unburned fuel entering the exhaust manifold / turbine housing, the temperature....etc etc, pop out the exhaust.
Do you really need your bov to vta, its already pretty loud in full recirc with an after market intake anyway (pretty sure I read you had one somewhere), if you just have to have the loud pssshhh sounds, I recommend a 50/50 bov that will keep the ECU happy as part of the air is being recirculated.
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I'm also inclined to recommend the Turbosmart Dual Port unit. Run it in 50/50 and set it correctly. I used to get the occasional backfire but in saying that I didn't get round to tensioning the spring correctly. I still maintain that most of my noise is intake (induction) related, the CAI is fairly loud when on boost, especially driving through Perth city
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