May I suggest tearing strips off them - IN A NICE WAY. You have had the vehicle in for a $1,100 service and the specific symptom that it was serviced for is still evident.
That's grounds to complain, surely.
Originally Posted by
Fletch
I had my car in to a Mazda dealer on Friday of last week to have the actuator replaced ended up costing me $1100 and the rattle is still there.
I actually had two different rattle noises one was the clunky diesel type rattle everyone speaks about and I also had a more of a higher pitched rattle which sounded like a loose bracket or something. The higher pitched rattle has gone but the horrid diesel rattle is still there on cold starts.
I'm a bit annoyed at this as I was under the impression replacing the VVT actuator would totally fix the noises- prior to leaving the dealership I got the service advisor to come out and he didn't have bugger all to say about it other than to give it a few cold starts to see if it corrects itself!!!
I'm thinking of calling the service manager to speak about options to get this sorted out properly as I'm not happy with the results.
"Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Michelin PS5 - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - Corksport turbo manifold - HT 98 octane tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - Bespoke Raspberry Pi Android based GPS/Carplay and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.
"Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold.