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Thread: 80000K Service time.... DIY?

  1. #1
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    Default 80000K Service time.... DIY?

    Hi, Im just over the 80k's and about to service the MPS6.

    Is there any reason now the car is out of warranty that I cant service the car myself? I have used Ultra Tune the last 2 times but feel I would rather get the best gear and do it myself....

    Is there anything hard to do on the 80k service....

    I looked in my Mazda book and it marked the plugs for the 80k but I was looking on Car Service, Auto Services, Car Repair, Auto Repairs and it didn't state the plugs to be done???
    When have people changed their plugs and what have they changed to?
    I'm thinking of putting ILTR6A-8G NGK set in are they the ones I should use?

    Is the oil filter hard to change?

    Are the spark plugs hard to get to?

    Info or links people have to help on these questions would be great!!!


    Mark

  2. #2
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    I've done a service on mine as it is out of warranty. I see no problem servicing it yourself if you feel confident to do so and its not a major service that is required. Can't comment too much about the 80K service although I would suggest looking in the manual which you have done. Depends when the spark plugs were last replaced, how many kilometres they have recorded and if you feel the need to replace as you suspect your vehicle has not been running 100%. NGK offers decent spark plugs and another brand is bosch. I've only used NGK plugs before but another option for the 6 if your willing to try is this...

    Denso-iridium-is-the-ultimate-spark-plug

    I see no problem using the NGK's if you wish to save a little cash or just want a good spark plug. I would probably try the denso iridium on my next service just to try them out and put a quality part it...why not! I try and service mine intermittently. That way if I over look anything, it sees a mechanic the next service to get a professional check. I usually work on my car on the weekends so regular checking is a given on my ride. I find a fair bit of cash can be saved by servicing yourself as most of the price is labour. Fair enough if you need major work done and you're not confident to do it yourself, by all means book it in.

    Oil filter is not hard to change but, good luck getting the oil filter cap off at 80K though, I broke a tool getting mine off at 20K cause it was pretty tight! I must say though, the easy access to the oil filter in the MPS is brilliant. You will also need more than one standard 5L bottle of oil as off memory I think the MPS takes 5.7L? Look into that in the manual (fluid levels) before you purchase oil. That way you don't have to purchase another bottle and top it up later

    Haven't changed spark plugs so don't quote me on this but you will have to remove the plastic intercooler cover, and the intercooler to get to them. I don't imagine it being too hard if you have the right spark plug tool. Pretty much a matter of disconnect, remove, replace, connect really

    Edit: This may help with removing the intercooler...

    diy-top-mount-intercooler-removal-clean

    With great power comes great fuel consumption...
    M P S
    - 6 - RR | Cobb AP | CAI | TIP | ATP GTX28R | 3.25" TMIC | SS DP | REM | 3" Zorst | SSP Anchors & Countershift | DBA Rotors | K/Springs | Upper & Lower Bracing | Alpine Type S 12" sub MRP-M500 Amp
    | Grille | STi Lip | Shark Fin | 6000K HID | Fog Light Tint | Twin DEFI gauges | Custom Decals & Badges | LED lighting | CF Mirrors & Pillars | Black rims Red callipers

  3. #3

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    MARK, I don't mean any disrespect by this but if these are the sorts of questions you are asking, then maybe you need to consider having the service done by others. The intercooler is easy enough to remove, but there are some issues that you need to be aware of, such as not losing a metal object down the plumbing and having it shred your turbo, or similar disaster. And then getting a leak free connection when you do it all up again. You need to be surgically clean and tidy. The plugs are down deep tubes that accumulate grit and you need to take care that none gets into the plug threads or cylinder. And so on. The oil filter is accessible after removing the bottom shroud - 6 x 10mm bolts.

    I'm entirely competent mechanically but have no problem with letting Mazda do the work - I pay them to do something they are qualified to do, plus they have the diagnostic computer, while people pay me to do what I'm qualified to do. It saves me time, which is money. And my car gets a wash and vacuum too. Unless your dealer is particularly bad, in which case Australia Mazda needs to know about them, then going elsewhere can be false economy in my view.
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug_MPS6 View Post
    MARK, I don't mean any disrespect by this but if these are the sorts of questions you are asking, then maybe you need to consider having the service done by others.
    There's some wise words in that comment but at the same token, once upon a time I didn't know much at all. As far as minor servicing goes I think with a basic knowledge one can happily complete the task and maybe learn a few extra things. I pulled half the dash apart on my first car. Parents shaking their heads as I laced the dining room table with my instrument cluster and centre console! Can't say I knew what I was doing but figured the screws were there to take it apart. I succeeded in installing a car stereo (with dad) complete with custom mounted Subwoofer and amps as well as orange lit instrument cluster and painted white shrouding. The only way to learn is a keen interest with a side of curiosity.

    You're comments Doug apply to me when I require major servicing, clutch work, new brake pads (including machining the disc) Diagnostics etc. For all other things I looked on forums like these and relied on personal curiosity. Most of the mods on my car come from being bored, wanting to be different and a curious nature! lol

    You get a wash and a vacuum!! Lucky! The last service I had at John Hughes left my car dirtier than when I dropped it off! Nice to see they did not check half the fluid levels, ate lunch in my car and spilt coolant all down my radiator and hoses. Complained and got a discount voucher! Pass! Threw it in the bin and serviced it my self next time.

    Some places perform good work but I don't blame anyone, experienced or not to consider DIY servicing or at least displaying a can-do attitude and willingness to learn, as did I at one point

    Then again, my comments above come from a helpful dad who much like yourself Doug is pretty cluely about cars, mechanics and engineering. Most of the mechanical work was done in conjunction with him since my first car. Changing a HT coil pack on my girlfriends 323 SP20 tonight, never done it before but just another building block of my knowledge base anyway! Hopefully that fixes the problem she's having.

    Mark, If you feel confident enough to service the MPS youself, my personal opinion is by all means go ahead, have a go, save your self some money and maybe learn a few things as you go. Doug has a point and an experience knowledge so by his comment if you do not feel confident, perhaps book it in.

    Worst case mate, take the plastic covers off and have a look underneath to the task at hand. Hope that helps

    With great power comes great fuel consumption...
    M P S
    - 6 - RR | Cobb AP | CAI | TIP | ATP GTX28R | 3.25" TMIC | SS DP | REM | 3" Zorst | SSP Anchors & Countershift | DBA Rotors | K/Springs | Upper & Lower Bracing | Alpine Type S 12" sub MRP-M500 Amp
    | Grille | STi Lip | Shark Fin | 6000K HID | Fog Light Tint | Twin DEFI gauges | Custom Decals & Badges | LED lighting | CF Mirrors & Pillars | Black rims Red callipers

  5. #5

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    I use my own mechanic instead of Mazda Dealers for servicing. I trust my mechanic and his price is definitely way reasonable than dealers.
    As for Mazda Diagnostic, you could always book your car with Mazda to have only the diagnostic MMDS done. It costs $44 from Wood Mazda.

  6. #6

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    I meant to add that I don't handball all mechanical jobs to outsiders and I'm not averse to doing things mechanical. Obviously. But I keep it to my mods and let Mazda do the routine stuff. They're faster at it and have better facilities and I have other things to do with my time. But I do wish I didn't have such a small workshop now. It used to be good until I moved to a smaller house. But I totally rebuilt a Land-rover, including an engine exchange, in the annex of a caravan, so it is possible to perform miracles with very little.

    I agree with ROG re mechanical curiosity. I was GIVEN my first car by a retired gentleman up the road from our old home, who said "if I could fix it I could have it". So my first job ever was dropping the gearbox and pressing on new bearings!! I earned myself a Ford V8 Pilot, now a classic! Then my parents had to contend with me exploring every nook and cranny in our first family car, but I finished up doing all the servicing on that and subsequent cars. Poverty helps. It was too expensive for us to get garage service back then.

    Anyway, MARK. you know you have plenty of support here and I wasn't trying to spook you or put you off.
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

  7. #7
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    Very good comments in these posts - as a qualified mechanic and ex -TAFE auto teacher, if you need to ask the questions you have asked, pay some-one to service your car.

    There is a special tool for removing oil filter which works very well - I purchased a full kit off ebay with all the filter socket type tools for under $75 which was a bargain. As the filter is hard plastic and uses "O" rings to seal both the centre bolt and the housing, without the correct tool it is not easy.

    If you read the oil filter housing it has a recommended tightening torque, overtightening can cause distortion.

    I'm all for people servicing their own cars - quickest way to learn "how the car works" creating more respect for the vehicle. Modern servicing is basically a "check list" but you must know what you are looking for and at.

    The services are designed for fault diagnosis so that repairs can be carried out before the fault becomes serious.

  8. #8
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    All your posts are great!!! Very informative

    I'm going to give the service a go, I've always serviced my other cars and I have a great collection of tools from years owning and modifying older Mazda's for years

    I feel better knowing you all are not screaming at me saying I'm crazy as it's really hard or complicated. It's like anything you have never done before you always make it out to be harder in your head lol

    I've ordered NGK iridium plugs, Ryco oil filter, Ryco pollen filter today

    I'm going to use Liquid Molly products at service to e.g. Flush, injector cleaner etc

    I'm also already waiting on DBA slotted rotors, Bendix ceramic pads and my low King Spring have just come.

    I just got home from booking in a new exhaust system for next week, the workshop has already done a MPS 6 a few weeks ago and got good tone and results. I'm getting a 2.25 cat-back that has a smooth pairing before the rear diff and the two pipes go each side of the diff then curves to straight through mufflers and flanged tips.

    I'm also going to install led day driving lights like Toddy did

    So I'm going to be busy over the next two weeks but I'm looking forward to it

    If you guys have any advice on the above or tips on how to's let me know....

    Cheers, Mark

  9. Default

    Sounds great Mark, cant wait to see the results of your efforts

  10. #10
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    Good to hear you're giving the service a go.

    Can't go too wrong with NGK and Ryco products. I think the hardest part will be getting the oil filter plastic cap off. As mentioned, I broke a tool getting it off, unless you have the right tool for the job I assume much easier.

    I have a CAI so just a K&N that I service regularly. I never use those additive products. I probably wouldn't want to rely on them. Often they just mask the problem. "Engine stop smoke" as an example. The motor is smoking for a reason!

    I think Chris has DBA slotted brakes and myself and Toddy have King Springs installed on our cars.

    Are you sure a 2.25" is suited for the MPS? I have a 3" mandrel on mine. Are you getting a Downpipe?

    Toddy's Lights look pretty good, just wedge them under really.

    Hope all the work goes well!

    With great power comes great fuel consumption...
    M P S
    - 6 - RR | Cobb AP | CAI | TIP | ATP GTX28R | 3.25" TMIC | SS DP | REM | 3" Zorst | SSP Anchors & Countershift | DBA Rotors | K/Springs | Upper & Lower Bracing | Alpine Type S 12" sub MRP-M500 Amp
    | Grille | STi Lip | Shark Fin | 6000K HID | Fog Light Tint | Twin DEFI gauges | Custom Decals & Badges | LED lighting | CF Mirrors & Pillars | Black rims Red callipers

  11. #11
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    Yeah I was wondering about 2.25....? I one day might look at a down pipe..... What size would you advise for a cat back if thats all I ever end up doing?

  12. #12
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    I'm no exhaust expert but a 2.25" exhaust would be suited for most 4cylinder NA motors. For example the Mazda 6 Luxury Sport would suit a 2.25". A turbo charged car such as a 4cylinder and I think even the 6's require a 3" mandrel for best performance. The downpipe is a 3" so its pretty simple to flange to a 3" catback anyway. No need for a transition. Email a few exhaust places if you wish to get quotes and ideas. I think you will find across the board it will be a 3" manrel.

    If I can suggest. Get the entire exhaust (downpipe and catback) installed at once. It will save you money, time and you will get a decent increase leaving a grin on your face for some time! You would be looking around $350-500 (depending where you go) for the DP installation, and again depending on material for the pipework and muffler selection, I would estimate $1000-1250 for a mild steel setup and stainless mufflers. Check out my thread (RR link below) I've got some detailed images and a bit of a write up you might find useful mate!

    Hope that helps, let me know if you have any questions after reading it.

    With great power comes great fuel consumption...
    M P S
    - 6 - RR | Cobb AP | CAI | TIP | ATP GTX28R | 3.25" TMIC | SS DP | REM | 3" Zorst | SSP Anchors & Countershift | DBA Rotors | K/Springs | Upper & Lower Bracing | Alpine Type S 12" sub MRP-M500 Amp
    | Grille | STi Lip | Shark Fin | 6000K HID | Fog Light Tint | Twin DEFI gauges | Custom Decals & Badges | LED lighting | CF Mirrors & Pillars | Black rims Red callipers

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by MZSPD6 View Post
    I'm also already waiting on DBA slotted rotors, Bendix ceramic pads and my low King Spring have just come.

    Cheers, Mark
    Be a bit careful as Bendix do not make rear pads for the MPS6. Actually Bendix list them but the part number is wrong and they don't fit.

    GSL had to make a set for me, they lent me a set of very expensive rear pads so they could use my old pads as templates to make the backing plates. Bendix front pads okay.

    The QFM pads are excellent with very little dust. I can highly recommend them.

    Also may I suggest you check out the Corksport Exhaust - exceptional quality and relative cheap for a cat back stainless system. Exquisite looking exhaust and easy DIY fit.

  14. #14
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    Good luck with this Mark, look forward to hearing the results

    Also this is the thread on the TMIC cleaning in case you hadn't seen it

    http://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/how-t...val-clean.html

    EDIT: Forgot to add as Rogwick mentioned I've got the DBA4000 slotted rotors and very happy with them, been on now for about 10,000kms with no probs and from my footometer I can't notice any lack of feel from the stock rotors
    Last edited by shakespeare; 03-08-2010 at 11:11 PM.
    R36 - Just like an MPS6 except with a growly V6

  15. #15
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    Ok I asked a mate of mine (Mechanic - installer) at work to change the filter and oil today. He went to have a look at it and he says it has to be on a hoist as you cant get to the filter with just a standard jack.... really....? is there a DIY guide somewhere? What is the special tool I read might need to be used?

  16. #16
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    Just so everyone knows, I hate Internet Explorer! Ok for the second time...

    I don't mean to correct your mate especially since I am not a qualified mechanic myself, but, no, you do not require a vehicle hoist to change the oil and filter. I used a combination of the standard scissor jack and a hydraulic jack to raise the vehicle enough to fit under to complete the job. I didn't even use vehicle stands the first time I did it! Sure it would be easier to use a hoist as far as access goes, perhaps mechanics are spoilt to this fact and thus give a reply of "has to" or "not possible" If I used a hoist everyday I would most likely also reply "it is essential"

    On the left, the proper tool that fits over (more of a precise fit)
    The tool on the right, is the oil filter wrench I used. Apart from braking the thing it seemed to work fine. Note to self, don't buy a cheap one or use an old one...snap...doh!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    With great power comes great fuel consumption...
    M P S
    - 6 - RR | Cobb AP | CAI | TIP | ATP GTX28R | 3.25" TMIC | SS DP | REM | 3" Zorst | SSP Anchors & Countershift | DBA Rotors | K/Springs | Upper & Lower Bracing | Alpine Type S 12" sub MRP-M500 Amp
    | Grille | STi Lip | Shark Fin | 6000K HID | Fog Light Tint | Twin DEFI gauges | Custom Decals & Badges | LED lighting | CF Mirrors & Pillars | Black rims Red callipers

  17. #17
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    I rang ultra tune and asked how much to just change the oil if I supplied the liquid molly flush, oil and filter... $99. So I'm going to do it myself, with out a hoist lol

    I bought a 3 claw oil filter remover that I think will make the job pretty easy as it tightens as you twist....

    Will let you all know how it goes

  18. #18
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    Well oil change is done!!! Not sure what the big fuss was about needing a hoist.... The 3 claw oil filter remover made it really easy to take off but they cant tighten but i made do with a Hex key and normal band filter remover

    If your thinking of giving it go I say go for it, even if it's just just 5000k drop between services.

    Thanks guys for all your help

  19. #19
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    I have been thinking about doing services myself for a while (cars been out of warranty for a year now)
    The only thing that has stopped me is getting the book stamped might effect resale in the future.
    Cheers Todd

  20. #20
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    Congrats on completing the service MZSPD6! It's a good feeling, performing the task and saving a bit of cash too. So I guess you know what I mean about the hoist, not required although may help.

    12Lead, you can always write an entry in the book and just jot down the kms, date and sign it. I get mine serviced professionally intermittently. Any one intelligent enough will see your logs and see you've got the car professionally looked after regularly (every 20,000kms or so). Your entry, prof service, your entry, prof service etc. It's not hard to do a basic oil drop and filter. Hence I have no problem buying a vehicle from a guy who's serviced it every now and then. Sometimes mechanics stuff up, and they just want the vehicle out the door quickly so can book another vehicle in to keep the business flowing. Some times a passionate owner like most of us will take more care in a service than some mechanics. Best to know and understand the basics, then no problem, service it yourself. If the vehicle had NO log books at all, I would look more into checking the car over and possibly a professional inspection before considering purchasing. Still not too much of a drama

    With great power comes great fuel consumption...
    M P S
    - 6 - RR | Cobb AP | CAI | TIP | ATP GTX28R | 3.25" TMIC | SS DP | REM | 3" Zorst | SSP Anchors & Countershift | DBA Rotors | K/Springs | Upper & Lower Bracing | Alpine Type S 12" sub MRP-M500 Amp
    | Grille | STi Lip | Shark Fin | 6000K HID | Fog Light Tint | Twin DEFI gauges | Custom Decals & Badges | LED lighting | CF Mirrors & Pillars | Black rims Red callipers

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