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Thread: Oil type/changes

  1. #141
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Armadale, Melbourne
    Posts
    968

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    Castrol Edge 5W30 for me. Get it during the sales in repco or supercheap and saved quite a bit than the dealer charging me through the nose for their oil. And its full Syn too @slixx

  2. #142

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    My current mechanic recommended using Motul 8100. As I had no experience with it I neglected to go ahead with it and stuck with Castrol Edge.

    Has anyone used Motul 8100 and care to share your opinion?

    Reviews are hard to come by for that brand, which could be a subtle meaning...

    Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2

  3. #143

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    Looking at getting a tune soon. Would people recommend at getting a 40 oil instead of a 30??


    Peter "SLIXX"

  4. #144
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Melbourne , Victoria
    Posts
    1,173

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuckie Cheese View Post
    My current mechanic recommended using Motul 8100. As I had no experience with it I neglected to go ahead with it and stuck with Castrol Edge.

    Has anyone used Motul 8100 and care to share your opinion?

    Reviews are hard to come by for that brand, which could be a subtle meaning...

    Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2
    Dats wat I got in my car right now. First of all its expensive n it's only comes in 5 ltr(5w40) so u need to buy 10 litres lol. Secondly it's only been in the car for 5 months 4500 kms n I reckon it's not for Mazda. Cold morning start takes too long n then engine noise. Overall not worth it.
    Member Of a Wallbangers Club

  5. #145

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    Quote Originally Posted by slixx View Post
    Looking at getting a tune soon. Would people recommend at getting a 40 oil instead of a 30??


    Peter "SLIXX"
    I would, especially when you start tuning. Temperatures tend to skyrocket a lot more due to the extra power and at least you'll have that re-assurance of protection.

    Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2
    Mazda6 MPS

    BNR STAGE 1 - COBB ACCESSPORT STAGE 2 - CP-e HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP - CP-E DOWNPIPE - 3" MAGNAFLOW ZORST - DENSO ITV22 SPARK PLUGS - COBB SF INTAKE - COBB TURBO INLET PIPE - JBR 70a TRILOGY MOUNTS - SURE ANCHORS - SURE COUNTERWEIGHT - 2XS SHORT SHIFT PLATE - 2XS STEALTH BLOW OFF VALVE - KING PERFORMANCE LOWERED SPRINGS - BILSTEIN B8 SHOCKS - WHITELINE REAR SWAY BAR - DBA 4000 CROSS DRILLED ROTORS - HAWK PERFORMANCE HPS BRAKE PADS


  6. #146
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Melbourne , Victoria
    Posts
    1,173

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    Quote Originally Posted by slixx View Post
    Looking at getting a tune soon. Would people recommend at getting a 40 oil instead of a 30??


    Peter "SLIXX"
    good lighter oils have less crankshaft drag and let the engine spin faster. N u do realise that oil shear down around 2000ks. As far as 5w30 it will do ok in winter but I wouldn't recommend in hot weather but then again why not go with 5w40 just to be safe it will break down to 30 anyway.
    Ps:don't forget you are getting a tune n you will be doing lots of WOTS.
    Member Of a Wallbangers Club

  7. #147

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    Anyone tried shell rotella t6 5w40? Yanks seem to love it as it provides awesome protection for high rpm and our high temps. Also used in diesels

  8. #148

    Default Oil type/changes

    Quote Originally Posted by dazza View Post
    Anyone tried shell rotella t6 5w40? Yanks seem to love it as it provides awesome protection for high rpm and our high temps. Also used in diesels
    Can you buy it here. Didn't see it on the Shell AUS website

    Just worried about 5w being a little thin

    Peter "SLIXX"

    Snapped by Tangcla - FB Page
    Currently RaydTuned
    Lots of love from 2XS Racing & Dan's Garage Detailing

  9. #149

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    Quote Originally Posted by slixx View Post
    Can you buy it here. Didn't see it on the Shell AUS website

    Just worried about 5w being a little thin

    Peter "SLIXX"
    Negative, our equivalent is shell rimula or helix
    Think ill just stick with nulon, 5k changes shouldnt really matter as long as its full syn
    '05 6 MPS | BNR S3 | JBR 3.5" Intake | Corksport Airbox | CP-E 3.25" TMIC | M2 DP | CP-E CBE | CP-E/TT Diff Mounts | Autotech HPFP Internals | JBR REM, PMM, TMM | SURE Shortcut | SURE Countershift | SURE Anchors | Denso ITV22s | JBR TIGs | EGR Delete | Coolant Bypass | PTP Inj Seals | MD OCC | H&R Springs | Bilstein B8 Shocks | Car-LED Tails | Badgeless Grille | 6000k HIDs | OZ Ultraleggera 18x8 +48





  10. #150
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Melbourne , Victoria
    Posts
    1,173

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    Just put in nulon 10w40.engine has certainly quieten down, rpm drop has improved compared to motul 8100 where rpm would take few seconds to drop.

  11. #151

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Harry View Post
    Dats wat I got in my car right now. First of all its expensive n it's only comes in 5 ltr(5w40) so u need to buy 10 litres lol. Secondly it's only been in the car for 5 months 4500 kms n I reckon it's not for Mazda. Cold morning start takes too long n then engine noise. Overall not worth it.
    Hmm. Sounds like Magnatec when I was using it.



    Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2
    Mazda6 MPS

    BNR STAGE 1 - COBB ACCESSPORT STAGE 2 - CP-e HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP - CP-E DOWNPIPE - 3" MAGNAFLOW ZORST - DENSO ITV22 SPARK PLUGS - COBB SF INTAKE - COBB TURBO INLET PIPE - JBR 70a TRILOGY MOUNTS - SURE ANCHORS - SURE COUNTERWEIGHT - 2XS SHORT SHIFT PLATE - 2XS STEALTH BLOW OFF VALVE - KING PERFORMANCE LOWERED SPRINGS - BILSTEIN B8 SHOCKS - WHITELINE REAR SWAY BAR - DBA 4000 CROSS DRILLED ROTORS - HAWK PERFORMANCE HPS BRAKE PADS


  12. #152

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    I used to work for ALMC and got given ALOT of free oil took about 20 5l bottles of Castrol Edge 0 - 40w oil and have it sitting around, is this stuff good for a high KM 2006 MPS 3 engine?

  13. #153
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Bathurst
    Age
    42
    Posts
    1,930

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    Quote Originally Posted by AzA View Post
    I used to work for ALMC and got given ALOT of free oil took about 20 5l bottles of Castrol Edge 0 - 40w oil and have it sitting around, is this stuff good for a high KM 2006 MPS 3 engine?
    Take a look in your owners book. Look at the temperature range that suits you and see if that oil will be fine.

    But I'm going to say no it won't.
    2013 Ford Focus ST - Performance Blue, Cobb AP

    Gone 2006 3 MPS Sports - True Red, Koni FSD shocks, in dash OEM look Ebay GPS/DVD, Hypertech, RX8 Rims

  14. #154
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    38
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    1,510

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    Quote Originally Posted by AzA View Post
    I used to work for ALMC and got given ALOT of free oil took about 20 5l bottles of Castrol Edge 0 - 40w oil and have it sitting around, is this stuff good for a high KM 2006 MPS 3 engine?
    All I can say is that will be better suited to colder climate where temps are cool.
    2XS+ChipTorque=DeathStar

  15. Default

    Some of the comments on "thin oil" or "thick oil" are confused. The "w" ratings have two numbers: the first number is the "winter" rating ie cold temperature viscosity, the second is the warm temperature viscosity. In general a 0w40 is thinner than a 10w20 on start up/cold temperature, but stays thicker at higher temperatures.

    You want thinner on start up to reduce start up friction, but you want to stay thicker, but no overly so, at higher operating temps.

    So in summer a 10w40 in summer is probably better than a 0w30, but a 0w30 is probaly better in winter. So choose your grade according to the seasons you will expect to run it. Or better still choose a 0w40 eg Mobil 1 all year round, but even a 5w40 eg Penrite HPR 5 or Shell Helix in Australia is probably just as good all year round since we don't get really cold or really hot temps

    It can get a bit confusing as some 30 weights can be close to 40.

    Me I,ve used Shell Helix 5W40, Magnatec 10w40 (rubbish, engine revved sluggishly, lots of engine clatter), CAstrol Edge 5w30 (noisier engine, but engine seemed to rev very freely) and Penrite HPR 5. My favourite Shell Helix 5w40 and Penrite HPR 5: engines revved freely, engine much quieter on start up, fuel economy as good as ever.

    By the way, one of the more stringent oil standards is that of Mercedes Benz 229.5. I have a Merc as well and its always had Mobile 1 0w40. MB operate a flexible service schedule ie about 15k and after 180,000 km, I pulled the rocker cover gasket and the internals I could see looked damned new. But the engine did clatter more, so I went to Penrite HPR 5w40 and zero engine clatter. Brilliant.

    The thing about Penrite HPR 5 is that they've put extra zinc in it. I've read the phosphate the zinc is bonded to can foul up oxygen senors and catalytic converter. If thats true I don't know Penrite wears the Extra Zinc logo like its something to be proud of. I might go back to Shell Helix 5w40 or try Mobil 1 0w40.

  16. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KFuNk View Post
    All I can say is that will be better suited to colder climate where temps are cool.
    Why?

    Its thinner at cold-which is what you want on start up- but 40 weight in hot temperatures, which is what you also want.

    A 0w40 oil will cover pretty much all the temperature ranges that you'll get in Australia.

    The thing to watch out for is as the engine ages, the clearances between components may increase and so a 5w40 might reduce engine noise on start up.

  17. #157

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    Is it bad to keep changing oil brands every oil change?

  18. #158

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    just want to clear somthing up guys, the 10w is the cold start componentnof the oil, its way too thick for cold starts, egen a 5w oil is too thick but a line has to be drawn somwhere. Cold start is where 80% of wear occurs, even a 0w 40, or 0w 30 oil grade in full syn is best.

  19. #159

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    Quote Originally Posted by mymps11 View Post
    just want to clear somthing up guys, the 10w is the cold start componentnof the oil, its way too thick for cold starts, egen a 5w oil is too thick but a line has to be drawn somwhere. Cold start is where 80% of wear occurs, even a 0w 40, or 0w 30 oil grade in full syn is best.
    Um do you plan to start your car in Siberia ,10w is fine up to -20 please turn to 8-11 in your Mazda manual to see

  20. #160
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Bathurst
    Age
    42
    Posts
    1,930

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    Nowhere in the Mazda manual does it say to use 0W oil (at least in mine) and from memory the American TSB released about the turbo said its not covered if you use less than 5W.

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