Castrol Edge 5W30 for me. Get it during the sales in repco or supercheap and saved quite a bit than the dealer charging me through the nose for their oil. And its full Syn too @slixx
Castrol Edge 5W30 for me. Get it during the sales in repco or supercheap and saved quite a bit than the dealer charging me through the nose for their oil. And its full Syn too @slixx
My current mechanic recommended using Motul 8100. As I had no experience with it I neglected to go ahead with it and stuck with Castrol Edge.
Has anyone used Motul 8100 and care to share your opinion?
Reviews are hard to come by for that brand, which could be a subtle meaning...
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2
Looking at getting a tune soon. Would people recommend at getting a 40 oil instead of a 30??
Peter "SLIXX"
Dats wat I got in my car right now. First of all its expensive n it's only comes in 5 ltr(5w40) so u need to buy 10 litres lol. Secondly it's only been in the car for 5 months 4500 kms n I reckon it's not for Mazda. Cold morning start takes too long n then engine noise. Overall not worth it.
Member Of a Wallbangers Club
Mazda6 MPS
BNR STAGE 1 - COBB ACCESSPORT STAGE 2 - CP-e HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP - CP-E DOWNPIPE - 3" MAGNAFLOW ZORST - DENSO ITV22 SPARK PLUGS - COBB SF INTAKE - COBB TURBO INLET PIPE - JBR 70a TRILOGY MOUNTS - SURE ANCHORS - SURE COUNTERWEIGHT - 2XS SHORT SHIFT PLATE - 2XS STEALTH BLOW OFF VALVE - KING PERFORMANCE LOWERED SPRINGS - BILSTEIN B8 SHOCKS - WHITELINE REAR SWAY BAR - DBA 4000 CROSS DRILLED ROTORS - HAWK PERFORMANCE HPS BRAKE PADS
good lighter oils have less crankshaft drag and let the engine spin faster. N u do realise that oil shear down around 2000ks. As far as 5w30 it will do ok in winter but I wouldn't recommend in hot weather but then again why not go with 5w40 just to be safe it will break down to 30 anyway.
Ps:don't forget you are getting a tune n you will be doing lots of WOTS.
Member Of a Wallbangers Club
Anyone tried shell rotella t6 5w40? Yanks seem to love it as it provides awesome protection for high rpm and our high temps. Also used in diesels
Snapped by Tangcla - FB Page
Currently RaydTuned
Lots of love from 2XS Racing & Dan's Garage Detailing
'05 6 MPS | BNR S3 | JBR 3.5" Intake | Corksport Airbox | CP-E 3.25" TMIC | M2 DP | CP-E CBE | CP-E/TT Diff Mounts | Autotech HPFP Internals | JBR REM, PMM, TMM | SURE Shortcut | SURE Countershift | SURE Anchors | Denso ITV22s | JBR TIGs | EGR Delete | Coolant Bypass | PTP Inj Seals | MD OCC | H&R Springs | Bilstein B8 Shocks | Car-LED Tails | Badgeless Grille | 6000k HIDs | OZ Ultraleggera 18x8 +48
Just put in nulon 10w40.engine has certainly quieten down, rpm drop has improved compared to motul 8100 where rpm would take few seconds to drop.
Mazda6 MPS
BNR STAGE 1 - COBB ACCESSPORT STAGE 2 - CP-e HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP - CP-E DOWNPIPE - 3" MAGNAFLOW ZORST - DENSO ITV22 SPARK PLUGS - COBB SF INTAKE - COBB TURBO INLET PIPE - JBR 70a TRILOGY MOUNTS - SURE ANCHORS - SURE COUNTERWEIGHT - 2XS SHORT SHIFT PLATE - 2XS STEALTH BLOW OFF VALVE - KING PERFORMANCE LOWERED SPRINGS - BILSTEIN B8 SHOCKS - WHITELINE REAR SWAY BAR - DBA 4000 CROSS DRILLED ROTORS - HAWK PERFORMANCE HPS BRAKE PADS
I used to work for ALMC and got given ALOT of free oil took about 20 5l bottles of Castrol Edge 0 - 40w oil and have it sitting around, is this stuff good for a high KM 2006 MPS 3 engine?
2013 Ford Focus ST - Performance Blue, Cobb AP
Gone 2006 3 MPS Sports - True Red, Koni FSD shocks, in dash OEM look Ebay GPS/DVD, Hypertech, RX8 Rims
Some of the comments on "thin oil" or "thick oil" are confused. The "w" ratings have two numbers: the first number is the "winter" rating ie cold temperature viscosity, the second is the warm temperature viscosity. In general a 0w40 is thinner than a 10w20 on start up/cold temperature, but stays thicker at higher temperatures.
You want thinner on start up to reduce start up friction, but you want to stay thicker, but no overly so, at higher operating temps.
So in summer a 10w40 in summer is probably better than a 0w30, but a 0w30 is probaly better in winter. So choose your grade according to the seasons you will expect to run it. Or better still choose a 0w40 eg Mobil 1 all year round, but even a 5w40 eg Penrite HPR 5 or Shell Helix in Australia is probably just as good all year round since we don't get really cold or really hot temps
It can get a bit confusing as some 30 weights can be close to 40.
Me I,ve used Shell Helix 5W40, Magnatec 10w40 (rubbish, engine revved sluggishly, lots of engine clatter), CAstrol Edge 5w30 (noisier engine, but engine seemed to rev very freely) and Penrite HPR 5. My favourite Shell Helix 5w40 and Penrite HPR 5: engines revved freely, engine much quieter on start up, fuel economy as good as ever.
By the way, one of the more stringent oil standards is that of Mercedes Benz 229.5. I have a Merc as well and its always had Mobile 1 0w40. MB operate a flexible service schedule ie about 15k and after 180,000 km, I pulled the rocker cover gasket and the internals I could see looked damned new. But the engine did clatter more, so I went to Penrite HPR 5w40 and zero engine clatter. Brilliant.
The thing about Penrite HPR 5 is that they've put extra zinc in it. I've read the phosphate the zinc is bonded to can foul up oxygen senors and catalytic converter. If thats true I don't know Penrite wears the Extra Zinc logo like its something to be proud of. I might go back to Shell Helix 5w40 or try Mobil 1 0w40.
Why?
Its thinner at cold-which is what you want on start up- but 40 weight in hot temperatures, which is what you also want.
A 0w40 oil will cover pretty much all the temperature ranges that you'll get in Australia.
The thing to watch out for is as the engine ages, the clearances between components may increase and so a 5w40 might reduce engine noise on start up.
Is it bad to keep changing oil brands every oil change?
just want to clear somthing up guys, the 10w is the cold start componentnof the oil, its way too thick for cold starts, egen a 5w oil is too thick but a line has to be drawn somwhere. Cold start is where 80% of wear occurs, even a 0w 40, or 0w 30 oil grade in full syn is best.
Nowhere in the Mazda manual does it say to use 0W oil (at least in mine) and from memory the American TSB released about the turbo said its not covered if you use less than 5W.