Whiteline Rear Swaybar

[levitize]

Just installed the Whiteline RSB, however I didn't torque it, instead I just tightened it until it felt 'tight' enough. Car feels fine as is, definitely feel the difference with the bar on. My only question is, is there anything with doing this? Long term?

Thanks!

[2XS]

Just installed the Whiteline RSB, however I didn't torque it, instead I just tightened it until it felt 'tight' enough. Car feels fine as is, definitely feel the difference with the bar on. My only question is, is there anything with doing this? Long term?

Thanks!

The std endlinks seem to come loose.
Tighten the endlink nuts to spec or slightly tighter.

[Reedy]

My endlinks kept coming loose and I torqued mine to spec, just keep an ear out, if they come loose it will start clunking like crazy every time you shift cornering loads from one side to the other. If that happens then loctite the balls off it.

[slixx]

I've recently installed Eibach Spring, Koni FSD Shocks, Whiteline front and rear away bars and the Whiteline Bump Steer Correction kits

The handling and cornering is completely transformed and the grip the cars had gives me so much more confidence

I hear a clinking (like a spring) when I drive slowly or going up or down driveways. Has anyone had this noise or know what it is

Could it be the setup just settling?


Peter "SLIXX"

[Oldhead]

Did u thread lock the nuts on rear sway bar????.
If u used the rear holes on sway bar ,u have used the stiffest setting and this is fine ,but there is a slight difference in the hole /compared to endlink bolt size and u must locktite .
When car sometimes changes corner load ,or driveways the tension causes bar to twist and clunk is the bolt in endlink moving.

Be careful with locktite though ,i used red and put too much along endlink bolt , this caused me to strip the allen keyway to bolt when doing maintenance.
Only put locktite at end of bolt b4 doing nut all the way up.

Check the OEM bar and u will see a recess for retaining nut stamped into it , your whiteline does not have this recess/ rebate , only a smooth face on sway bar.
Theres your answer to clunking!!!!!!!

[mpssylo]

I've recently installed Eibach Spring, Koni FSD Shocks, Whiteline front and rear away bars and the Whiteline Bump Steer Correction kits

The handling and cornering is completely transformed and the grip the cars had gives me so much more confidence

I hear a clinking (like a spring) when I drive slowly or going up or down driveways. Has anyone had this noise or know what it is

Could it be the setup just settling?


Peter "SLIXX"

what is the bump steer correction kit?

[levitize]

I had a clunking noise as well, checked mine today and it turned out that the rear left bolt on the rear sway bar was missing - go figure! Got replacement bolts, loctited and hopefully all is good.

Wouldn't hurt to go for a visual inspection under your car just to see everything is in order!

I've recently installed Eibach Spring, Koni FSD Shocks, Whiteline front and rear away bars and the Whiteline Bump Steer Correction kits

The handling and cornering is completely transformed and the grip the cars had gives me so much more confidence

I hear a clinking (like a spring) when I drive slowly or going up or down driveways. Has anyone had this noise or know what it is

Could it be the setup just settling?


Peter "SLIXX"

[slixx]

From the Whiteline website

NOTES: IMPORTANT
Reduces factory toe out from 6mm to 1mm (at 60mm bump)

PRODUCT BENEFITS
Whiteline rear bump steer kit is designed to change bump steer characteristics depending on driving conditions. For racing it is beneficial to reduce the amount of bump steer to give a more positive feel - sharper handling - reduced rear passive steer & reduce understeer.

what is the bump steer correction kit?

Peter "SLIXX"

[mpssylo]

From the Whiteline website

NOTES: IMPORTANT
Reduces factory toe out from 6mm to 1mm (at 60mm bump)

PRODUCT BENEFITS
Whiteline rear bump steer kit is designed to change bump steer characteristics depending on driving conditions. For racing it is beneficial to reduce the amount of bump steer to give a more positive feel - sharper handling - reduced rear passive steer & reduce understeer.





Peter "SLIXX"

thanks for the info,going on what everyone's been saying here,is it worth doing the front sway bar as well as the rear,or do just the rear?is their any benifit in doing the front is what iam asking?

[slixx]

Well I got both done so I couldn't tell you if it's worth it

All I know is both bars = me smiling


Peter "SLIXX"

[Jeev]

For our cars, just the rear bar will give you great results.

[mpssylo]

For our cars, just the rear bar will give you great results.

cool,would be great to get everyones opinion on this?

[Reedy]

If you have other suspension work then its worth doing both but if you have factory suspension then just do the rear. A front as well will return the cornering balance to how it comes from the factory (understeery as shit) which is not what you want.

[mpssylo]

i have coilovers,do u still suggest the rear only,i don't want to be understeery,i want it to turn in more with grip?

[Jeev]

Just go XHD on the rear.

[naasif]

Called whiteline to place an order for a RSB. There is a 4 week wait , so it's on back order.

[Jeev]

Called whiteline to place an order for a RSB. There is a 4 week wait , so it's on back order.

Now call Pedders and Fulcrum and see if anyone has them in stock. It took Pedders exactly 1 day to get mine in from the warehouse...

[xccude]

Anyone had it installed to an MPS6? I'm looking at this as the first suspension mod for a 6MPS I'm about to buy, heard it's a hell of a job. How long did it take you and what was needed to get it installed?

[SlowMPS]

Called whiteline to place an order for a RSB. There is a 4 week wait , so it's on back order.

Ring up MRT .i picked one up on Tuesday from their workshop.$295.

[projectrracing]

they are on ebay also.