GenII MPS3 - Camber & Tyre Wear

[o0minime0o]

Bit anoying when i probably have 10+k left on the rest of the tyre/s, all good but, i do see your point.

[RedDjinn]

SO, mine has this same issue, purchased the car Sept. 2010, done 35K's & tyre inners are shagged, so i am looking at selling this now to get a 4x4, not a good additional cost i was hopeing for.

Thats great.. Im through a set every service lol

[LOOPYMPS]

Nothing a set of coilovers and some camber arms cant fix. Who wants to ride at factory height anyway.

[o0minime0o]

HAHA, my misses would give me an absolute flogging if i had to do that... :P

[LOOPYMPS]

HAHA, my misses would give me an absolute flogging if i had to do that... :P

Come on who's car is it yours or the misses. lol

[o0minime0o]

My car, her balls.

[LOOPYMPS]

My car, her balls.

Ha haa Nice one. I like a man that can admit his wife is opinionated. My misses refuses to drive my. She wreckons it is difficult not to speed in it.

[o0minime0o]

Hehe, yea, mine doesn't like to drive the MPS either, says its too firm of a ride. She does however enjoy the power, as she is a lead foot herself.

[scoty]

Tear wear with the Mazda 3 MPS seems not just a problem in Australia, All Mazda 3 MPS owners seem to have the same problem through out the world, we should all bombard the Mazda Australia Facebook site with our complaints. I have had my Mazda 3 MPS for 7 months from new and have only just turned 20thou klm and the front inside edge (2cm) is almost down to canvas. the problem is the negitave camber and toe adjustment factory spec. I have asked mazda to cover this under the warranty and im still waitining on an answer. You see this a a clear manufactor issue and tyers should last at least 30thou and not 20thou. Reason they are set like this is to reduce torque steer thats the offcial angle customer service are telling me. The chap at Mazda Australia help line tried to tell me to rotate front to rear every 5000klm and inside to out side. I remindered him that the tyers fitted are not multi directional. How do I reduce torque steer, is there some divice I can purchase and then set the toe and chamber angles up correctly so I dont burn tyers out. Mazda have also warned me that any adjustment outside the factory specs voids my warranty

Come on guys anyone that has purchaesd a mazda 3 MPS within the last 12months and had this issue get onto Mazda facebook site as Mazda are saying there is no problem.

Dont get me wrong I love this car and Im looking forward to upgrading it

Anyone with advice can you please help me out

Cheers

[projectrracing]

Not new news mate. Not a new complaint either. Look at this thread, heaps of info had to overcome this problem. And may examples of overcoming it also.

[LOOPYMPS]

Just rotated tyres at 40K last night. Had them since 30K and second rotation. Lowered ride but my Michellin's are wearing very evenly unlike when my suspension was stock. I wreckon I will get 35-40K out of them. Good to see.

BC coilovers with camber arms at the back and adjustable camber at the front. Inside wear on Gen 2's is a known fault so Mazda should wear some of the cost imo.

[aeon]

I just replaced my stock tyres on the 2011 MPS with Michelin Pilot Super Sports... I'd done about 24000km, but it felt like they needed replacing for the last thousands km's or so. When the tyre fitter replaced them he said that the inside tyre was pretty much illegal. I've now got Michelin Pilot Super Sports on the car which feel pretty awesome, though I'd like to keep them going strong for a bit longer than 20000km if possible!

I understand Tyre Rotation every 5000km is recommended, are there any other things that people suggest?

Is there a suggested tyre pressure that the tyres should be kept at? (inside the drivers door there's a printed sheet which specifies the tyre pressures - would they apply for the different tyres over the stock tyres, or should I keep my tyres at a different pressure)?

[hypersven]

My 2010 Gen 2 has stock suspension and wore the tyres out in 26000 kms.
The cause was the amount of non-adjustable negative camber on the rear wheels.
Rotating the tyres simply destroyed the inside edge on all 4.
I got adjustable control arms fitted and the camber corrected.
This set of tyres should last a lot longer.
Rotation at 5000 kms is a good move.
I run 40 psi (cold).

[YLDCRD]

Sorry to bring up an old thread but I am up for new tyres soon due to the same inner tyre wear! More so in fronts than rear. I bought the car second hand and have driven 20000km roughly. Unsure whether the fronts were on back at one stage, so unsure if its the front or rear suspension causing the issue.

Installed: Koni Sport shocks and Eibach Pro kit springs

Ive attached my allignment specs. What should I adjust them to, to get better even tyre life? And do I need any aftermarket parts to counteract this?

Driving style: Straight freeway/highway most of the time

[LRRH]

Sorry to bring up an old thread but I am up for new tyres soon due to the same inner tyre wear! More so in fronts than rear. I bought the car second hand and have driven 20000km roughly. Unsure whether the fronts were on back at one stage, so unsure if its the front or rear suspension causing the issue.

Installed: Koni Sport shocks and Eibach Pro kit springs

Ive attached my allignment specs. What should I adjust them to, to get better even tyre life? And do I need any aftermarket parts to counteract this?

Driving style: Straight freeway/highway most of the time

@projectrracing might be able to provide you with some useful feedback Andre

[shaneski]

Does @projectracing own a shop or can do work for us, he seems to know his shit.

[projectrracing]

Sorry to bring up an old thread but I am up for new tyres soon due to the same inner tyre wear! More so in fronts than rear. I bought the car second hand and have driven 20000km roughly. Unsure whether the fronts were on back at one stage, so unsure if its the front or rear suspension causing the issue.

Installed: Koni Sport shocks and Eibach Pro kit springs

Ive attached my allignment specs. What should I adjust them to, to get better even tyre life? And do I need any aftermarket parts to counteract this?

Driving style: Straight freeway/highway most of the time

guessing there is some form of castor increase bushes or top plates as the front caster has increased and the front camber has decreased.

all in all, the camber is fine across the board. the toe is way out, especially on the left side of the car. previous owner may have driver up banked gutters to park it overnight.

if you want it a bit racer but good tyre life, then go for +0.5mm both fronts, so +1.0mm total. and 0.0mm both rears, so 0.0mm total.

it you wanna maximize you tyres, then +0.7mm both fronts, so +1.4mm total. and +0.2mm both rears, so +0.4mm total.

[projectrracing]

Does @projectracing own a shop or can do work for us, he seems to know his shit.

No shop. Just do work on my own cars and few others that end up in the driveway.

- - - Updated - - -

@projectrracing might be able to provide you with some useful feedback Andre

thanks for the vote of confidence.

[YLDCRD]

guessing there is some form of castor increase bushes or top plates as the front caster has increased and the front camber has decreased.

all in all, the camber is fine across the board. the toe is way out, especially on the left side of the car. previous owner may have driver up banked gutters to park it overnight.

if you want it a bit racer but good tyre life, then go for +0.5mm both fronts, so +1.0mm total. and 0.0mm both rears, so 0.0mm total.

it you wanna maximize you tyres, then +0.7mm both fronts, so +1.4mm total. and +0.2mm both rears, so +0.4mm total.

Im confused and probably lack a bit of knowledge in the suspension field.
Though my current allignment shows front total of: 1.3mm and rear total 2.1mm. So is it safe to say that its the rear that is causing my inner edge wear?

What should be the caster and thrust angle?

What is the difference in ride quality between the 'racer' and 'maximised tyre' specs? Is it a noticable difference? I dont want to compromise handling too much! But I do want to have even tread or at least minimise the inner edge wear as much as possible.

[projectrracing]

All you specs are correct except toe. Dont worry about the other stuff. Everything is right where it should be and none are uneven left vs right. Just the toe is extremely off.

The difference between the 2 toe options I gave you shouldn't be overly noticable unless you have really sharp senses when it comes to driving/vehicle dymanics.

If unsure, just go the +0.7/+0.2 option. It can always be changed at a later alignment.