I'd hate to own this car on NZ. Don't they inspect their cars every 6 months?
I'd hate to own this car on NZ. Don't they inspect their cars every 6 months?
this is one reason i got my coilovers and camber arm adjusters, now i get even tire wear
Had a serious issue today, inside camber wear. The inside edge of tyre, tread pulled away from the casing due to camber wear. still 1-2mm from indicators. 20-30 mm of inner edge of tyre the tread pulled away....
Ya, nothing new there. But Mazda thinks its "sporty" for a car to behave like that.
Once the tyre surface begins to wear unevenly, the thinner part will not be able to cope with the same amount of stress as the rest -> Tyre Failure.
Yeah i'm suffering the same problem on my MPS6, i was told thats the way it is,
not good enough, still searching for a solution, get s kinda expensive replacing 20"
tyres every year.
Cheers Todd
Getting tyres swapped on the rims or Camber Arms will help. Ideally though, if you're going to start playing with the camber, you want to adjust the Toe too.
Im going to give these a go MA i-Pro Victra i-Pro through a local dealer they say they are quiet and grippy, hope so .. I have my shocks and springs coming soon hope to get rid of this camber problem...
---------- Post added at 01:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:51 PM ----------
Maxxis MA iPro Victra iPro | the Maxxis MA iPro Victra iPro reviewed and rated | the online tyre guide
Many want Power not many hold it long.........
Most people would be lucky to get 30,000ks on a set of decent wearing tyres (OEM not included).
So what does it cost to remove tyres and rotate between rims? $100.
You do that every 5000ks.
Then let's say that extends the life of the tyre from 30k to 40k.
Means you done this 7 times, @$100= $700 to get extra 10000ks.
Over 120000 k's, you would spend $2300 on the above technique ($100 x 23 times) but only changed your tyres 3 times. Plus the cost of tyres ( assume $350 a corner) $4200 = $6500.
If you just rotate, means you're buying new tyres every 30000k's, that 4 times over 120000k's = $5600.
Unless you're riding on some super expensive compound, plus youre getting greater wear, it hardly seems worth it.
Or, if you could get them moved for less than $80 a go, you'd about break even.
Of course, I very well could be underestimating the effectiveness of this technique and overestimating the cost of moving rubber between wheels.
I'm going for 5 tyre rotation every 5000k's on Michelin PS3's. Will see how that goes.
I have been doing a wheel alignment every 10thousand k's I got about 30,000 out of my stock tyres. The tread is still good but the insides have the canvas showing now sitting on 34,000 and getting them replaced this week. Cost of alignment was $50 each time.
Sent from somewhere in this big wide world....
Queenslands Bossy Bitch
Are you getting OEM tyres? They quite expensive. Check the tyre thread for some alternatives.
Also found this- taken from a VW forum:
I know i know its going to end up with "they didn't do this, they didn't do that" etc etc. Take it for what it is... a tyre test on the day! Summarised results below, car used was a Renaultsport Clio 197, Michelin and Kuhmo didn't participate as they didn't make a tyre in the Clio's size and Yokohama declined to participate... wtf? This year they tested 8 road tyres and 4 semi-slick road legal tyres. I'll list all contenders for first test but cos i'm lazy i'm only putting the top three in each test.
Test 1 - Dry Slalom
1. Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE001 13.1s
2. Dunlop Sp Sport Maxx 13.2s
3. Maxxis Victra i-pro 13.3s
4. Pirelli P Zero Nero 13.3s
5. Federal 595 Evo 13.4s
6. Hankook Ventus V12 Evo 13.4s
7. Continental Sportcontact 3 13.5s
8. Goodyear Eagle F1 13.6s
Semi-slicks
1. Bridgestone Potenza RE55 12.8s
2. Toyo Proxes R888 12.8s
3. Dunlop Direzza 03G 13.0s
4. Federal 595 RSR 13.3s
Test 2 - Wet Slalom
1. B'stone Potenza 13.2s
2. Dunlop SP 13.5s
=3. Continental Sport 3 13.6s
=3. Goodyear F1 13.6s
S/S
1. Toyo Proxes 13.8s
2. B'stone Potenza 14.1s
3. Dunlop Direzza 14.2s
Test 3 - Dry Braking
1. B'stone Potenza 36.7m
2. Maxxis Victra 38.1m
3. Goodyear F1 38.3m
S/S
1. Dunlop 34.2m
2. B'stone 34.4m
3. Toyo 34.7m
Test 4 - Wet Braking
1. Goodyear F1 38.1m
2. Dunlop SP 39.4m
3. Pirelli 39.5m
S/S
1. Federal 39.4
2. Dunlop 39.6m
3. Toyo 39.6m
Test 5 - Lateral G Dry
1. Maxxis 1.01g
=2 Pirelli 1.00g
= Hankook
= Federal
=B'stone
S/S
1. Dunlop 1.08g
2. B'stone 1.07g
=3. Toyo 1.04g
=Federal
Test 6 - Lateral G Wet
1. Goodyear 1.04g
=2. Hankook 0.96g
= Dunlop
= Contiental
S/S
1. Dunlop 1.02g
2. B'stone 0.98g
=3. Toyo 0.96g
= Federal
Test 7 - Lap times
=1. Federal 39.9s
=. Hankook 39.9s
3. Goodyear 40.0s
S/S
1. B'stone 39.1s
2. Dunlop 39.1s
3. Federal 39.4
Test 8 - Apex Speeds
1. Pirelli 63.2kmh
2. Maxxis 63.1kmh
3. B'stone 62.4kmh
S/S
1. Dunlop 66.7kmh
2. Federal 66.2kmh
3. B'stone 65.3kmh
Overall scores
1. B'stone
2. Maxxis
3. Goodyear
S/S
1. Dunlop
2. B'stone
3. Toyo
Overall road tyre winner Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE001, closely followed by the Maxxis Victra i-pro (which are also $324 cheaper for a set!). Overall semislick winner was Dunlop by some margin.
Pretty good value out of the Bridgys as well, if you remove the dead last by some way Federals the Bridgys are third cheapest at $296/tyre... and you should be able to find em cheaper than that as well.
found it here Need Advice On Tyre Selection Folks! - Skylines Australia
Many want Power not many hold it long.........
Trying to keep it subtle ... | COBB AccessPort | COBB DP | CP-e HPFP | CorkSport TMIC | TurboSmart BPV | Denso ITV22| CorkSport Boost Tubes | SURE Full3 Aeros | SURE REM (Street) | SURE AGS SS Shift Knob | 2XS SSP + SURE CounterShift | Speedline Front Strut Brace | Whiteline RSB | Prima Paint Protection
Just got them today. Speaking to the manager at Goodyear Dural. He said my toe out was extreme. The combination of camber + extreme toe caused my inside edge tyre wear.
He wants me to drive it for a week and then come back to re-adjust the toe. He thinks the Mazda specs for the toe on the Gen 2 is incorrect. I'll get a printout on the settings on my next visit.
He was speaking to a Mazda dealer today in Sydney (that I won't mention) that has seen this problem too often (off the record). This dealer has adjusted the toe out settings against the recommendation to try and fix the issue.
On my next visit he's going to make the same adjustments to my car. Will be interesting to see what the standard vs new settings are.
---------- Post added at 06:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:32 PM ----------
Anyone know what Mazda recommended the toe/camber settings are suppose to be for a stock Gen 2 ?
Trying to keep it subtle ... | COBB AccessPort | COBB DP | CP-e HPFP | CorkSport TMIC | TurboSmart BPV | Denso ITV22| CorkSport Boost Tubes | SURE Full3 Aeros | SURE REM (Street) | SURE AGS SS Shift Knob | 2XS SSP + SURE CounterShift | Speedline Front Strut Brace | Whiteline RSB | Prima Paint Protection
been saying the same thing for a while. i posted that back in September last year.
personally i would not be running negetive toe if it is a daily driven car. no matter what the manufacturers says i should.
if you will want an aggressive alignment setting, then +0.5mm per side on the front and neutral on the rears should still give a good turn in when the rolling forces move the angles of the wheels. and will increase the life of the tyres by mountains.
Last edited by projectrracing; 24-04-2012 at 07:44 PM.
Thanks for that projectrracing.
This is my daily and I've only been to the track once and given the expense of these tyres I'd rather them last a bit more than 20,000kms.
Wheel alignment done today.
Here are settings from the printout they gave me -
Front Axle (previous/current)
- Toe Left == - 0.7mm / + 0.6mm
- Toe Right == - 1.1mm / + 0.6mm
Rear Axle (previous/current)
- Toe Left == + 0.2mm / + 0.2mm
- Toe Right == + 0.2mm / + 0.2mm
So far so good.. I haven't driven spiritedly as yet but will see how it goes on the weekend.
This time around with new tyres I think I will pay much more attention to tyre wear and rotation every 5000kms. I think I was to relaxed with the OEM set, thinking my dealer would know best.
Last edited by naasif; 02-05-2012 at 09:06 PM.