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Thread: Budget suspension mods....

  1. #1
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    Default Budget suspension mods....

    Looking at suspension now on mine - (pretty happy with the ~200Kw 433Nm ATW I seem to be getting )

    Don't have a big budget...don't want to lower...was looking around and discovered that

    Best budget shocks seem to be Koni FSD. I should be able to get some for $560US + shipping - a set of 4 that is.

    Then I've been talking to some local agents and it's been suggested that the best thing to do would be from there to leave the swaybars OEM, but get adjustable endlinks, and you can tighten them up and adjust the balance that way.

    Lastly would be bushings etc...they are apparently ok for now...

    Wondering if anyone has any suggestions for adjustable endlinks?
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Michelin PS5 - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - Corksport turbo manifold - HT 98 octane tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - Bespoke Raspberry Pi Android based GPS/Carplay and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold.

  2. #2

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    Can i ask why you are wanting to leave the factory swaybars in ?

  3. #3
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    James, for a budget setup, go for the Koni FSD's, but do a set of springs too. I have KING SPRINGS in mine, they are perfect for daily driving then twisties on the weekends. They DO lower the car, but only by 20mm up front and 25mm at the back.
    I can give you part numbers if you're keen. I paid $98 for fronts, then the same for the rears... BEST bang for your buck by far...

    BTW, I have standard sway bars in mine. I see no reason in dishing out any money on them. My spring/shock combo suits the car and my driving style. Don't do things just because everyone else has done them. Each mod should be done for your driving style, NOT peer pressure.
    ___,...--'--..--...,,,
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  4. #4

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    I really don't think that changing end links will make a difference unless they are worn, plus you can't adjust the geometry of the OEM bar. Aftermarket end links have a habit of being noisy and problematic because they are exposed to incredibly high stresses.

    If you're on a budget the first thing to do is change the sway bar bushes to polyurethane. The reduction in body roll will be equal to about a 1mm increase in sway bar diameter, but without the hassle and expense of a sway bar change. Poly sway bar bushes are way in front of anything else in terms of bang for your buck (apart from pumping your tyres up).

    Gone to Volvo


  5. #5
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    If only I had known when you were here, could have sampled mine.
    I have the specific mazdaspeed Koni FSD. part number 4045. They are actually for Mazda 5. But testing showdown them to be better than the standard Mazda 3 kit. Number 4040.

    Truly sensational, car rides much smoother, handles far better, as dad put it when he drove it, as good as his 6 MPS.
    Definitely worth the money.
    That's with stock springs, its not recommended to use other springs, and definitely not lowered with them.

    couldn't recommend them more highly
    Last edited by bd581; 17-02-2011 at 11:37 AM.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by kmh001 View Post
    I really don't think that changing end links will make a difference unless they are worn, plus you can't adjust the geometry of the OEM bar. Aftermarket end links have a habit of being noisy and problematic because they are exposed to incredibly high stresses.
    My understanding of the theory behind this recommendation goes something like this :
    The OEM swaybars really are sufficient for my needs.
    In order to tighten things a little, adjustable endlinks cat let you place tension.
    Results won't be as track-ready as replacement swaybars, however, one can apparently tune it a little this way?
    What was suggested to me was to get adjustable endlinks, tighten them, go driving, tighten them some more, go driving, etc, etc until the balance is where you like it.
    The suggestion was that rear endlinks could do this.

    I think if tightening the front up as well, this is when I would want sway-bars instead; however if I can keep the OEM sways and adjust the balance with rear enlinks, that's very attractive to me and a great street focused solution at minimum cost.

    Usage requirements are very much real world everyday use, just adding an edge. I'm fairly set on the FSD + stock springs...Koni sport red or something like that - manually adjustable - would be a better match for lowered springs.
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Michelin PS5 - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - Corksport turbo manifold - HT 98 octane tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - Bespoke Raspberry Pi Android based GPS/Carplay and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold.

  7. #7
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    if you want a firmer ride for cheap a mate of mine has a 2002 celica, was doing a tyre change and noticed a rubber disc in the springs on the front, figured out they are to keep the car from bouncing around when they are shipped here and someone from toyota forgot to take them out before it went to the dealership. we took them out gave its a spin and the suspension was heaps softer, so put them back and its all nice and tight again. would prob cost $20 each, i reckon

  8. #8
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    Your setup, will be exactly same as mine.
    Adjustable end links and FSD's
    Havn't tried adjusting them to see if there is a difference. Really can't be bothered.
    Happy with the way it is.

    Make sure you get the 4045's they are a better match for the heavier mps springs.

    For the real world driving your after, i don't think you'll get better.
    Best compromise, for a daily driven, never tracked car.

    To me, feels like the way Mazda should have made them in the first place.

    Standard fitment to lamborghini and the championship winning mclaren f1 cars were running Koni shocks, essentially the same, until they were banned.
    That's good enough for my Mazda I think

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nexus View Post
    My understanding of the theory behind this recommendation goes something like this :
    The OEM swaybars really are sufficient for my needs.
    In order to tighten things a little, adjustable endlinks cat let you place tension.
    Results won't be as track-ready as replacement swaybars, however, one can apparently tune it a little this way?
    What was suggested to me was to get adjustable endlinks, tighten them, go driving, tighten them some more, go driving, etc, etc until the balance is where you like it.
    The suggestion was that rear endlinks could do this.

    I think if tightening the front up as well, this is when I would want sway-bars instead; however if I can keep the OEM sways and adjust the balance with rear enlinks, that's very attractive to me and a great street focused solution at minimum cost.

    Usage requirements are very much real world everyday use, just adding an edge. I'm fairly set on the FSD + stock springs...Koni sport red or something like that - manually adjustable - would be a better match for lowered springs.
    I really don't understand the advice you've been given. In the neutral state the end links should have no pre-load and the bar is not adjustable so there is nothing to tighten up.

    Gone to Volvo


  10. #10

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    Nexus,

    Where are you purchasing the shocks from? I might be interested in a set myself & could share the shipping costs.....

  11. #11
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    Adjustable endlinks are a complete waste if you're retaining a stock ride height!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Spend the money on a R.E.M or upgrade the rear swaybar... Or as Grajy said, purchase a set of springs.. Myself personally would opt for Eibachs over King.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by kmh001 View Post
    I really don't understand the advice you've been given. In the neutral state the end links should have no pre-load and the bar is not adjustable so there is nothing to tighten up.
    Yeah, I was of the impression that the length adjustable endlinks were for lowering to get the bar in the right position....I was imagining pre-loading of sorts, but thinking about it now, that doesn't make sense either and I'm not sure how it would work either, now...(?)
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Michelin PS5 - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - Corksport turbo manifold - HT 98 octane tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - Bespoke Raspberry Pi Android based GPS/Carplay and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold.

  13. #13
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    Got mine from repco.
    Koni had them in stock, despite arguing that they weren't right for my car. The ones I wanted are listed for a Mazda 5. Which aren't available in Australia, so why stock them?
    At the time, there was a several month wait for them in america

    Cost a tiny bit above $1000

  14. #14

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    Cheers,

    I've just had a look @ tirerack.com

    Suspension Products for 2007 Mazda MazdaSpeed3

    They have them for $560.00 + shipment. I think that's where Nexus is getting them from

  15. #15
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    James, go and speak to a suspension specialist about what to do. Professional advice over forum advice anyway.
    For the record, I spoke to australian Koni distributor, top performance about suspension. Was told 'coilovers' are overkill for any other than repeated track racing.
    For the street and spirited driving, I was recommended Koni adjustable sport shocks with king springs. I was told eibach was not suited to what I wanted. All up cost me just under $1200 trade price.
    Speak to a pro mate. Do it right first time...

  16. #16
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    Agreed with Jon. Coilovers are overkill for Australian roads. Probably cause as many troubles than they solve.
    I know that the biggest handling issues I've had have been caused by mid corner bumps. Something that firmer suspension would not help with.

    On the adjustable end links. I must point out that I have them because I was chasing a knock in the front end. Just replaced the end links with something cheap and in stock. There were no specific endings so had to get universal links.
    Only really useful if the car is lowered, to keep the swaybar at the right angle, and away from the chassis and other suspension bits. It's a tight fit in there.

    And nexus has said that he wants to retain stock, right height, so no point suggesting different springs.
    And I would definitely change the shocks, massive difference. The stock springs are pretty good, but the shocks are rubbish

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hama3 View Post
    Cheers,

    I've just had a look @ tirerack.com

    Suspension Products for 2007 Mazda MazdaSpeed3

    They have them for $560.00 + shipment. I think that's where Nexus is getting them from
    Yeah, there's a few sellers hitting that kinda price. I dare say there's no shortage of them and $ exchange rates have hit the product?
    Tirerack is where I'm looking at getting them...just prefer it to ebay, basically.

    Quote Originally Posted by Grajy View Post
    James, go and speak to a suspension specialist about what to do. Professional advice over forum advice anyway.
    For the record, I spoke to australian Koni distributor, top performance about suspension. Was told 'coilovers' are overkill for any other than repeated track racing.
    For the street and spirited driving, I was recommended Koni adjustable sport shocks with king springs. I was told eibach was not suited to what I wanted. All up cost me just under $1200 trade price.
    Speak to a pro mate. Do it right first time...
    The agent I've spoken to most recently steered me towards the FSD over koni sports...and told me to buy them online because the local prices are much more...I'm inclined to agree it's better suited to my immediate needs.
    Then I thought that some adjustability would be nice, and remembered what another agent had said about endlinks. I'm a bit confused about that second advice now.

    At this stage, I think FSD are the go for good shocks without changing anything else. I don't track enough to warrant adjustable shocks and even 20mm lowering might take away rough-road readiness that current ride height has.

    Adjustable sports with King springs sounds like a good option for tuning balance using shocks and springs...

    The question that pops to mind is : presuming I go the koni FSD, that's a fairly good bet, what options might there be for tuning balance?
    This is where the rear sway bar / endlink idea comes in, although that seems shaky.

    I'm going to find another agent to talk to...back later.
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Michelin PS5 - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - Corksport turbo manifold - HT 98 octane tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - Bespoke Raspberry Pi Android based GPS/Carplay and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold.

  18. Default

    People keep poo-pooing the Eibach ProKit / Koni FSD combination, however they are sold in some places as a combo pack, so they can't be THAT bad...

    Greg from GSL could make comment on that.

    Back on topic, I have heard plenty of good things about the positive difference FSD's make on the MPS... DO IT!

  19. #19
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    I was considering eibach and konis/bilsten B8's but its too much $$$$$ now im starting to swing onto coil's, Troy (2XS) has a decent set for sale everything is adjustable so get someone to help you set it to you driving style height included i think it was $999 + postage but not 100%

    Either that or try Grajy's option Kings are made in Australia for Australian roads so they would suit our roads more Eibach just have a better rep since there german.

    Im not educated enough on a opinion on sways thou.
    MPSX-treme

    2006 MPS Sports True Red - HP-F Mazedit tune + Other go fast bits - DGR Coilovers + Semi Slicks - Numerous Sure Motorsport Additions - Dashhawk

  20. #20
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    Default The Plan

    Bit of discussion with local suspension specialists...
    They really like swaybar's as being a high gain upgrade...
    I didn't quiz them hard enough on adjustable rear endlinks, though, because now that I think about it,they suggested what sounds like a mod that could possibly be applied to OEM bars...creating a plate with various mounting points - adjusting the bar's geometry.

    My suspension plan now is
    (1) Koni FSD
    (2) Swaybar/endlinks -
    If possible, adjustable plate made for OEM bar (?), otherwise it's front and rear bar set, rear adjustable...or possibly just a rear adjustable sway + endlinks if the bar is made to completement the OEM fronts (not intended as a set)

    That achieves the street focus with some balance adjustment.
    If want to lower it, kings or eibach with the FSD should be fine, otherwise it's koni sports with more balance adjustment.

    So can start with the FSD, and explore from there...
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Michelin PS5 - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - Corksport turbo manifold - HT 98 octane tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - Bespoke Raspberry Pi Android based GPS/Carplay and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold.

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