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Thread: How to convert the stock 6MPS rear engine mount to polyurethane

  1. #1

    Default How to convert the stock 6MPS rear engine mount to polyurethane

    I received a request to explain how I modified the stock rubber rear engine mount in my 6MPS. So here it is:

    A while back I installed a SU mount and found there was too much vibration for my liking so it came out and the stocker went back in. I still wanted to eliminate excessive engine movement, so instead of taking a gamble with another brand of mount I decided to create an engine mount to my own specification using the stock mount as the basis.

    It was a relatively simple process and I now have a 70 duro polyurethane mount that does exactly what I want it to do - ie improve power delivery and gear shift by limiting engine movement but without excessive vibration. I'm very happy with the outcome and all it cost was $60 and some of my time.

    If you want to do this yourself, here's how.....

    Remove the stock mount and press out the big end using a vice or a mallet. This is how it looks on the way out, it's really very easy.



    This next part is optional if you want to be hands on or save a few dollars.

    You need to recover the steel bush. Do this by cutting away the rubber.



    Just when you thought it was safe to accuse the stock mount of being soft spongy rubber, you discover that it consists mostly of solid nylon and hard rubber with the flexibility coming from the voids. Anyway, get rid of all the old stuff.


    Then take the mount and bush (or the complete mount if you're taking the easy option) to a polyurethane specialist to be filled with 70 duro polyurethane in the colour of your choice.

    I chose black and this is how it turned out.



    Mine was done by Ryan at Advanced Polymer Technology in Armadale WA. Polyurethane Casting Perth, WA, Urethane, Polyurethane Casting, Advanced Polymer Technology

    There are bound to be similar companies in other states. If you don't want to be bothered cutting out the rubber yourself you could just send them the complete mount and they will do all of the work for you for a few extra dollars.
    Last edited by kmh001; 21-01-2011 at 12:49 AM.

    Gone to Volvo


  2. #2

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    Thanks dude! will be trying this one out when i find a polyurethane specialist in NSW!

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Sweet Mal, brilliant! Thanks for the awesome post!

  4. #4
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    how happy are you with results?Im sick of all the engine movement and shaky gear changes??

    Thanks

  5. #5
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    Another way is to fill the voids with flexane. I've previously had this done withy previous car. Just as cheap without having to much If any work

  6. #6
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    BOTH brilliant ideas Mal and Justin. I intend to do at least one of these mods just as soon as I can.

    Thanks for the tips fellas

    hmmmm, now which one??... eeeny, meeny, miney, moe.....

    Leon

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by esp22 View Post
    how happy are you with results?Im sick of all the engine movement and shaky gear changes??

    Thanks
    Extremely happy. There is a slight increase in vibes and as usual the increase is most apparent when the aircon is running. But the vibration is not excessive like it was with the SU mount.

    Another unexpected but welcome effect has been a noticeable reduction in the 6th gear resonance, which had started to creep back in after the gearbox and clutch were replaced. It seems counter intuitive that firming up the drive train would reduce the transfer of resonance to the structure. But now I'm really looking forward to finding out what effect my new diff mounts will have on resonance.

    ---------- Post added at 07:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:56 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by Jmac View Post
    Another way is to fill the voids with flexane. I've previously had this done withy previous car. Just as cheap without having to much If any work
    Thanks for mentioning this alternative Justin. I did consider it myself and if I had known at the time that the stock mount is full of solid nylon and that you really only need to fill the voids, I probably would have gone down this path.

    Gone to Volvo


  8. #8

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    Noob question, but are the voids the 4 holes you can see in the pictures? Do they go right through? And where would you get Flexane?

    ---------- Post added at 09:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:44 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by Velocity Red View Post
    BOTH brilliant ideas Mal and Justin. I intend to do at least one of these mods just as soon as I can.

    Thanks for the tips fellas

    hmmmm, now which one??... eeeny, meeny, miney, moe.....

    Leon
    Hey Leon, I'm in the same boat. Just did a quick search on Yellowpages and it looks like there could be a couple of plastics specialists out at Cardiff. If you decide to go the full fill-in, let me know perhaps we could get them both done

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by andy b View Post
    Noob question, but are the voids the 4 holes you can see in the pictures? Do they go right through? And where would you get Flexane?[COLOR="Silver"]
    Yeah that's right, the 4 holes are the voids. But there's a bit more to it. if you think of it having 4 sides (between the holes) only 2 of the sides are attached, allowing greater movement around the voids. A bit difficult to explain.

    Gone to Volvo


  10. #10
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    When I got my flexane mounts for my pulsar Gerard from GCCorp made them, this thread might help;
    Flexane [Archive] - Pulsar Group of Australia

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy b View Post
    Hey Leon, I'm in the same boat. Just did a quick search on Yellowpages and it looks like there could be a couple of plastics specialists out at Cardiff. If you decide to go the full fill-in, let me know perhaps we could get them both done
    Andy, that sounds like a plan. Sorry I havent got back to you sooner, work has been CRAZY. Send me a PM with a phone number and we will get something organised.

    Leon
    Started out with nothing Still got most of it left

  12. #12
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    Mal, by the way in my haste I forgot to add.

    THANKS FOR THIS THREAD

    Sometimes my posts through my Iphone are quite brief

  13. #13

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    What duro is the CP-e mount? I read that Polyurethane doesn't handle heat as well as rubber. What's the go with that?

  14. #14

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    Just wanted to throw my 2c in, i was looking to find a place in NSW to do this at but found that it was alot more difficult than I thought .

    I ended up filling the voids with stikaflex-252, and I am honestly very impressed with the results, the car no longer jerks on gear changes and it feels so much smoother, best $16 ever spent!

  15. #15

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    It's odd that a big place like NSW doesn't have a polyurethane workshop. But at least you got a good outcome.

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by kmh001 View Post
    It's odd that a big place like NSW doesn't have a polyurethane workshop. But at least you got a good outcome.
    Yer it was strange , they were all saying that they couldn't cast the polyurethane without a mould, and that to build a mould would cost about $350 !

  17. #17
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    Sikaflex is still good

  18. #18

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    Awesome thread... emailed them for a quote, can't seem to find anyone in Brizi on the net

  19. #19

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    Hi Mal, do you know how the poly guys accurately centred the bushings to get to your final product shown in your pic number 15?

  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug_MPS6 View Post
    Hi Mal, do you know how the poly guys accurately centred the bushings to get to your final product shown in your pic number 15?
    No mate I don't know how they did it, but it turned out perfect. They obviously know what they're doing and I think they do a lot of custom engine mounts.

    Gone to Volvo


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