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Thread: Hypertech Tunes & MAF sizes

  1. #1
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    Default Hypertech Tunes & MAF sizes

    OK, so everyone is starting to play with their Hypertech tuners, while a lot of people are using SRIs & CAIs sourced from the US, there are some local products that arent in the generic listing, so what intake option should I use?, I hear you ask.

    Well here is the answer, I emailed Chris from Hypertech earlier today and asked him to give me some of the sizes of the intakes that are on the device, Chris also went on to explain how the intake calculations are made by the ECU etc. Here is the email I received,

    Hi Matt,

    Thanks for the invitation to come on your forum. I will definitely jump on there in the next day or two and answer any questions.

    Below is an explanation of how the air intake tunes work and why we have to do it. I have some of the intake diameters that are listed below. They are in inches, so someone smarter than me would need to convert them to metric.

    To understand the need for precise re-tuning for an aftermarket cold air intake system, we must explain what occurs when that system is installed. The engine computer used in the Mazdaspeed MPS uses a Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor to calculate the amount of air entering the engine. This determines the exact fuel, spark, cam timing, and boost the engine needs under all conditions. The MAF is precisely calibrated to the stock air intake system. The cold air intakes change the air velocity and the volume of air passing over the sensor due to the shape and size of the ducting around the Mass Air Flow sensor and even the type of air filter used. Re-tuning the engine calibration when an aftermarket cold air intake system is installed is absolutely necessary to correct the MAF readings and to take advantage of the increased airflow with the free flowing cold air intakes. With no changes to the tune to account for these errors the EGTs will get hotter, boost will go too high, and AFR will lean out.

    In general, the installation of all of the kits Hypertech tested caused the engine to run leaner if the factory tuning was not adjusted. But all performed great once we recalibrated the tuning for the altered MAF sensor readings.

    Air Intake Diameters:
    Cobb 2.963" - 75.2602 mm
    K&N 2.585" - 65.659 mm
    Corksport 2.675" - 67.945 mm

    Chris


    I have also invited Chris to participate in forum discussion where possible, so if you have any questions or concerns, we will try and address them in due course, I will set the next post aside as a Q&A thread where I will merge selected questions and post the respective answers so that people arent pouring through 16 pages of forum to find a simple answer.

    p.s anyone running the Cobb SRI, I highly recommend trying the HKS intake profile, Im seeing boost up around the 18 mark, and afr's sitting steadily around 12:1.
    Nearly all men can stand adversity. But if you want to test a man's character - give him power.
    Abraham Lincoln

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    Reserved for my Q & A

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    What RPM increase is everyone choosing? What exactly does it do? I have chosen +200

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    I ask Tim from MZR and he said his diameter was 68mm so maybe go for cork tune although I'm gen 2

  5. #5

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    what would be a suitable tune for a mps6, with a k&n panel filter replacement, with the resonator removed??
    would assume flow would be higher, even though pipe diameter remains the same.

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    I'm getting more popping in the exhaust than before, especially shifting 1st to 2nd under moderate acceleration. Though I even had quite loud pop (not old kingswood backfire loud but definitely louder than normal overrun) just trundling along in 5th @ 60kph!

    I don't imagine it's anything to worry about, and in fact I like it!

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    5th gear at 60k's is NOT GOOD for our cars......

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    Quote Originally Posted by AD07 View Post
    5th gear at 60k's is NOT GOOD for our cars......
    Are you being serious?? How is that bad for them? I've always cruised in 5th or even 6th gear in everyday grandma driving..

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    Quote Originally Posted by rhcp_steve View Post
    Are you being serious?? How is that bad for them? I've always cruised in 5th or even 6th gear in everyday grandma driving..
    I agree with what ADO7 said. At 60KPH in 5th gear my 6's engine is doing 1850 RPM. I am happy to use 5th gear when I am doing 70K and above but only if the car is NOT being asked to "pull". (Not sure what the gearing is on a MPS3.)

    My own personal rule of thumb is not to allow the revs to fall below 2000 RPM in my MPS6. In fact I dont believe it should be below 2K in ANY 4 cylinder car. Slower revving six and eight cylinder cars are a different story.

    Leon
    Started out with nothing Still got most of it left

  10. Default

    Any elaboration as to what damage it may cause?

  11. Default

    I do not use the high gears to pull from low RPM's while cruising along. I am barely on the throttle, if I need to accelerate at any moderate rate I always shift down rather than have the car "pull" in the higher (5th/6th) gear.

    I can't see how this driving style is in any way harmful. And the exhaust pop in 5th gear I had was with barely any throttle applied, simply cruising.

    It seems to have settled down a little with a few more k's - not had a loud pop since

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    Quote Originally Posted by AD07 View Post
    5th gear at 60k's is NOT GOOD for our cars......
    Not good under WOT. cruising doesn't make too much difference. Watch knock retard on dashhawk or whatever.
    Agree though that <2000rpm not a great place to be loading the engine up except on takeoff in 1/2
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Michelin PS5 - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - Corksport turbo manifold - HT 98 octane tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - Bespoke Raspberry Pi Android based GPS/Carplay and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold.

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by mazda6mps View Post
    what would be a suitable tune for a mps6, with a k&n panel filter replacement, with the resonator removed??
    would assume flow would be higher, even though pipe diameter remains the same.
    you don't choose any maps in that case. just the first one that gets loaded which is tuned for the stock MAF housing. The maf still reads the air going past, its just going past quicker

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    for those running a 2XS SRI, it's MAF size is 68mm...
    so it's best to chose the corksport SRI, as this most closely matches it in diameter

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    Quote Originally Posted by SarcasticOne View Post
    for those running a 2XS SRI, it's MAF size is 68mm...
    so it's best to chose the corksport SRI, as this most closely matches it in diameter
    That's exactly what I'm running (2XS SRi &TIP with Corksport Map), and it seems to be showing some pretty nice figures at the moment.

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    Hopefully not a repost, but a reply from HT regarding my high boost figures....

    Rajeev

    Below is all the details about our tuning procedure that should answer your questions. If you have other questions let us know. Thanks
    Tuning Information:

    The vehicle we used to develop our tuning initially was a 2008 Mazdaspeed 3. The car had 4,836miles on it when we bought it. In addition to the typical datalog parameters available from the Diagnostic Port, additional sensors were installed all over the engine to allow accurate measurement of the entire powertrain. Fast acting EGT sensors were installed in each cylinders port in the exhaust manifold. Fast acting air temperature and pressure sensors were installed in the air stream before and after the intercooler. A fast acting air temperature and pressure sensor was installed after the BOV and in the pre-turbo air intake tract. Exhaust pressure was measured prior to the turbocharger and prior to the cat-back exhaust. A high flow axial fan was also installed on top of the intercooler to allow for quick and repeatable runs to speed up the tuning process by more accurately simulating the airflow seen on the road. This level of perfection was deemed necessary to provide the best tune possible. The top mount intercooler needed good airflow to keep the dyno testing accurate without excessive time between dyno runs. We fabricated a bracket to a 16" axial fan to bolt it right on top of the intercooler. With over 1200cfm pumping through the intercooler the dyno runs could be made 5-7minutes apart with great repeatability. We also outfitted the exhaust and intake tract with several temperature and pressure sensors so we could accurately determine the efficiency of the turbocharger and engine more accurately. Here's a picture of the car on the dyno...

    As you can see, we wanted to know EVERYTHING about what our tuning changes were affecting. We even measured the airflow after the blow-off valve to determine if it leaked under boost! It doesn't, but now we all know for sure. In the end, the tuning we developed was thoroughly tested and measured to ensure a great tune without pushing the engine and turbocharger past their limits even when we are pushing the engine to 7200RPM on a daily basis (+500RPM above the stock rev limiter).

    Our Superflow dynos have a roll weight of 4400lbs. This simulates a fully loaded Mazdaspeed6 almost perfectly (4550lbs GVWR), which is an ideal testing scenario. All of our dyno pulls were made in 4th gear and take about 30seconds to complete. And we took what we developed at wide open throttle and moved the performance gains into the rest of the maps at part throttle. Once we were finished developing on the dyno and hit the road we only had to make minor adjustments to the tune to make it perfect. That's so nice from a tuning standpoint, because it eliminates multiple sessions on the dyno. Plus, it confirms that our testing on the dyno really does simulate what the cars are going to experience in the real world, off the dyno.

    Once we were finished with the tuning, we drove the car with the stock tune and then with our tune again. The Hypertech tune can be felt everywhere you drive; from part throttle driving in traffic to wide open on the track. We then realized that the low speed torque that the Hypertech tune makes was dramatically more than stock. The Hypertech tune just annihilates the tires when you put the pedal to the floor in first and second gear. Of course, the stock tune also does a good job at roasting tires, but it's much less dramatic once you've gotten accustomed to the car. We just weren't sure that everybody would want that kind of torque at low speeds. So, we spent some time roasting the tires from a stop, and figured out how to keep that low speed power under control like the factory tune without sacrificing the extra power at the higher speeds of the upper gears. We decided to add this tune to the Sport for of the "0-60 MPH Electronic Throttle Restriction" option. It may not be the most accurate description of what's going on, but to the average Joe it does convey what it feels like behind the wheel.

    Once we finished fine tuning the car on the road, we put the car back up on our dyno and measured the final power numbers. The graph we published comes from this 4th gear dyno session. The results are from three repeatable runs from the stock tune and the Hypertech tune. If you take your stock car to the dyno we expect your power to lay right on top of ours. Of course if you have mods like an air intake and/or exhaust, you'll make even more.

    The end tune that's in the Sport puts peak boost around 17-18psi which is about 3psi more than stock peak-to-peak during a dyno pull. Boost pressure comes on full at 2800-3000RPM and holds flat until about 5500RPM where it is tuned to trail off. This was due to the turbocharger efficiency dropping drastically as it tried to keep up with the airflow of the engine in the higher RPMs. Maintaining boost to redline would give a additional 10-20HP, but at the cost of ~200degF EGTs. That type of inefficiency would degrade the engine and turbocharger longevity. With our tune we are less than 100F hotter than stock during a dyno pull (~50F peak vs. peak). We just didn't want to do that with our tuning, and your car.

    If you realize that the turbocharger is just an air pump, it stands to reason that it has a maximum airflow that it can pump efficiently. And you can see this in our dyno chart pretty clearly. The horsepower curve with our tune holds at roughly 250HP from 5000RPM to 6000RPM, and then trails off quickly. The turbocharger reaches its peak efficiency and holds there for roughly 1000RPM. Instead of pushing the airflow from the turbocharger in the higher RPMs by holding the boost steady, we had to roll it off to keep from superheating the air and over spinning the turbocharger. To make more power with this turbocharger, other parts are needed (air intake and exhaust).

    Knowing that air intakes are pretty common, and a good idea for the power hungry, we went back to the dyno and retuned for several different air intakes. In a few weeks we will add this option to the Max Energy Sport as a free update to anyone who already has one, and all subsequent Sport's will ship with the option already in them. The option will simply ask if you have an aftermarket air intake installed, and allow you to choose which one. The tunes are specific for each intake, so it's not advisable to pick and choose. We have developed tunes for the following air intakes: Mazdaspeed, AEM, K&N, CorkSport, Injen, and Takeda. Compared to the stock air intake, these intakes dramatically lower the restriction the turbocharger is fighting to get air. With the Hypertech tune, the air pressure in the inlet tube going to the turbocharger drops from 4.5inHg to only 3.1inHg. That's 30% less restrictive than stock. Typically the air intakes to alter the airflow going to the mass air meter, so this must be corrected. The mass air flow sensor is essentially the brain of the operations in the computer. If it's not calibrated correctly there are a lot things that don't get calculated correctly. Once everything is corrected, the result is almost one more pound of boost from the turbocharger just because it can get the air with less restriction.

    All totaled, we've made over 1100 dyno pulls so far. The car has over 12,000 miles on it today. That's almost 8,000miles just tuning and testing this car. It is not a daily driver. It is a test mule that only gets driven for tuning and testing purposes. We have explored this tune from top to bottom to make sure it was the best tune we could make.

    Mazdaspeed/MPS Technical Data and FAQ's:

    How much boost does the Hyperech tune make? - How Much Boost?
    On a stock car, we measured a peak of about 17.5psi with the Hypertech tune, while the stock tune peaks at about 14.5psi. This was measured in 4th gear on our AWD Superflow dyno.

    What are the intake air temps at this boost? - Intake Air Temperatures
    During the same dyno pulls, we measured a peak-to-peak increase of about +24°F pre-intercooler, and about +19°F peak-to-peak after the intercooler. These temperatures were measured with a fine gauge thermocouple that reacts much faster than a typical intake air temp sensor, so don't be surprised if these numbers are slightly different than what you measure with a datalogger. Our readings should be worse, if anything, during a similar test. This JPG does have an inset picture of the sensor we use, but it is still hard to tell that the sensor consists of two hair sized wires.

    How hot are the EGTs with the tune? - EGT's
    During the same dyno pulls, we measured an increase of about +34°F, peak-to-peak over stock. This doesn't sound like much, but the EGTs are right at 1500°F which is pretty hot when wide open. The factory tune didn't leave much room for us to make a tune that wouldn't cause problems in the long run. The power gains we got with only a +34°F increase is really nice.

    One thing to note is that we probably use a slightly different temperature sensor than most people are used to. We use a small wire, exposed junction thermocouple for our dyno tuning. These are much more responsive than a typical thermocouple sold with aftermarket gauges because the mass is much less (heats up quicker). This allows us to see quick changes in EGTs and have better insight as to what our tunes are doing during development. The downside to a fast probe like this is that they are fragile. If you have an aftermarket gauge your numbers may not match ours exactly due to the differences in probes and equipment.

    How about more boost? - More Boost
    The boost curve the Hypertech tune was developed through extensive testing, and during some of that testing we tested a tune that maintained the boost pressure all the way to redline rather than dropping off in the higher RPMs. The "overboost" tune pushes boost up another 2psi and the result is about +50°F and only +9HP. The final Hypertech tune increases boost 4psi over stock at the same point and only bumps EGTs +35°F and makes +59HP. That additional 2psi just isn't worth it. There's a lot of info on this JPG explaining what we measured.

    Additional explanation for boost levels: Hypertech Intake Exhaust
    We actually pushed our test car to see what the limitations were of the factory turbo. On a stock car, we measured a peak of about 14.5psi with the stock tune. The Hypertech tune peaks at 17.5psi, measured in 4th gear on our AWD Superflow dyno.

    See the attached charts. There's some additional information on the charts about what we measured.

    As you can see in the illustration, our final boost curve follows a shape similar to the factory boost curve which focuses on maintaining turbocharger efficiency, rather than a steady boost level. As seen in our test run with a steady boost level, there is only slightly more power gained by holding boost steady, and testing showed much less repeatable, dependable power. This was a result of pushing the turbocharger past its optimal efficiency range. 19 psi is ok for that turbo at low RPM's, but they can't hold that kind of boost pressure at the upper RPM range. With our boost curve, the turbocharger still has room to provide optimal boost without working past its efficiency range.

    The thing to remember is that power is not made with boost. The turbo can only flow so much air. The higher the boost, the hotter the air. The trick is finding the optimal boost to keep the airflow efficient. This can't be done at one boost level. The boost level must be tuned differently as the engine RPM increases and the physical 2.3L of displacement pumps faster and faster and demands more and more airflow.

    The other thing to consider with your car is the altitude. The factory computer will decreases the maximum desired power output at higher altitudes to prevent overworking the turbocharger. By maintaining an accurate model of the engine performance with our tune, this accurately maintains this same safety mechanism. Not all of the aftermarket tunes available for the Mazdaspeed3 do this.

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    .... And the rest of it.


    What about aftermarket air Intake tuning options? - Cold Air Intake Tuning
    There are currently 11 aftermarket air intake options to choose from in the Mazda Sport programmer. The programmer asks if you have installed an aftermarket air intake, and then show you a list of intakes to choose from.

    · AEM Cold Air Intake System
    · BEGi Cool Air System
    · Cobb Tuning SF Intake
    · CorkSport Short Ram Intake
    · Custom Performance Engineering Xcel Nano Air Intake
    · Custom Performance Engineering Xcel Cold Air Intake
    · HKS Racing Suction Intake System
    · Injen Cold Air Intake System
    · K&N Typhoon Intake System
    · MAZDASPEED Cold Air Intake
    · Takeda Attack Intake

    If you install an aftermarket air intake on the car, the changes to the intake tract can cause errors in the ECU calculations for the quantity of air entering the engine. The ECU uses this calculation to control many aspects of the engine, so a small error here can compound itself quickly. With no changes to the tune to account for these errors the EGTs will get hotter, boost will go too high, and AFR will lean out. By correcting these errors, the ECU will properly control the engine. The JPG goes into much more detail.

    How do cold air intakes help? - Cold Air Intake Help
    Obviously cold air intakes are popular mods because they make good power, but have you ever wondered why? We did. So, while we were testing we measured the pressure in the intake tract before the turbo with the stock intake and an aftermarket intake to see what happens. It turns out that an aftermarket air intake can reduce the inlet restriction by 5%, and because that's a direct restriction to the turbo, the output boost jumps up by that same 5%. And with more air comes more power. The Hypertech tune provides that same 5% increase in power you'd expect when an air intake is added on. The tune is absolutely set to respond to additional mods.

    What about exhaust mods? - Exhaust Help
    Exhaust systems are also very popular mods for these cars, and after testing our tuning with aftermarket exhaust systems on the dyno we can see why they make such an improvement in power. We measured the back pressure in the exhaust system after the catalyst during our dyno pulls and saw that an aftermarket exhaust system dramatically reduces the back pressure. Testing with an aftermarket air intake with our Hypertech tuning, we saw exhaust back pressure drop from just over 6 psi with the stock exhaust to 5psi with the aftermarket exhaust. This is roughly a 15% drop in back pressure, which resulted in additional +12HP to the ground. The additional fresh air getting into the engine was accounted for by the mass air calculations and the tuning was automatically adjusted to maintain the proper controls with the additional power. We did spend the time to adjust the tuning to see if more could be gained, but in the end, the tune is still optimized the best it can be. The additional modifications are already accounted for, so there is no need for an additional feature to adjust the tuning to account for an aftermarket exhaust system. You can see this is the case by the power gains measured at all points in the curve when the aftermarket exhaust is installed when compared to the same tune with the factory exhaust system.

    What does the 0-60 throttle restriction option in the programmer do?
    Power is slightly restricted by the factory at low speeds which keeps the traction issues for the front wheel drive MAZDASPEED3 in check, for the most part. With Hypertech's tuning the performance gains can be felt at just about every point in the driving range. In fact, when the turbocharger boost ramps up in the lower RPMs, the performance gains are quite dramatic. Despite the limited slip differential in the MAZDASPEED3, tire slip is very likely at low speeds. While this is very exciting initially, it may not be acceptable to some in the long run. Hypertech offers the option to keep the low speed power more restricted like the factory does with the "0-60mph Throttle Restriction" option. Removing this restriction removes the boost restriction in each gear. This option offers maximum power, but may result in severe tire spin. With practice, wider tires, or even a sticky race track this additional power may provide substantial better acceleration. But that may not be the best option in all circumstances, so the option is left adjustable by the user.

    Will the Sport tunes work with an aftermarket TMIC/FMIC (Top Mounted/Front Mounted Intercooler)?
    Looking back at the data from our recent air intake tune(s) development; there is a pressure drop of ~2psi at peak horsepower (5500RPM). That 2psi drop across the factory TMIC holds pretty steady even as the boost pressure decreases. This shows that at these power levels the factory TMIC is somewhat restrictive. That's not to say it's ineffective, because temps are dropped quite dramatically. The turbo outlet temps are in the 250F range (stock, and with our tune and the aftermarket air intake) and the outlet temps are peaking at around 110F during the dyno pull (4th gear to 7200RPM). Remember though, we had a 1200cfm fan bolted and sealed to the top of the intercooler while on the dyno so that we could get repeatable results with just a few minutes separation. When the car came off the dyno there were a few necessary tweaks to make on the road.

    With a better top mount intercooler, or even a front mount intercooler, you can expect the outlet temps and pressure drop across the intercooler to improve. You probably won't suffer from the heat soaking as much either. Because the intercooler sits on top of the engine and is surrounded by mass quantities of hot air in the engine bay it can definitely heat soak, and the stocker is pretty bad about it. You can tell a big difference in power when you sit in traffic for a while because the intercooler is so warm it takes a bit of airflow (aka speed) to cool it back off.

    The tuning will respond very well to the increased airflow (aka power) gained by having a better intercooler. The time we spent to develop this tune and ensure that all air mass and torque calculations are correct at the higher power levels create a perfect platform for bolt-on mods. Because these cars use a Mass Airflow Sensor to measure the incoming air, any additional air will be accurately measured and the spark and fueling will be adjusted appropriately for the best, safe power we have already tuned for. Cooler intake air temps from the more efficient intercooler will also be measured by the boosted air temp sensor which will also correct the spark and fueling correctly. That part is no different than the correction made when the outside air temp changes.

    Does the Hypertech tune eliminate the factory boost and load cut limits?
    With the Hypertech tuning the boost cut and load cut limiters are tuned to allow for mods, but are left in place to protect the engine from a mechanical failure that may cause destruction if these limiters are removed. With the air mass calculations correctly measured, these limits can be used just like the factory tuning uses them.

    Will the Hypertech tune work at high altitudes?
    As far as mapping for specific altitudes, the factory tune automatically compensates for altitude changes using a barometer reading, and our tune uses the same logic too. The major concern for higher altitudes is a condition that pushes the turbocharger too hard. In essence, a higher altitude has a lower barometric pressure which is similar to a restricted air intake at low altitudes from the turbocharger's point of view. For the turbocharger to maintain the same boost level at high altitudes (or with a restricted air intake), the compressor would have to work much harder. To prevent overworking the turbocharger we studied the affects of increasing boost at each RPM point to determine the turbocharger efficiency at higher and lower boost levels. The final boost curve we developed takes advantage of the turbocharger's flow capacity without pushing past its efficiency limits. As you can see in the attachment, our final boost curve follows a shape similar to the factory boost curve which focuses on maintaining turbocharger efficiency, rather than a steady boost level. As seen in our test run with a steady boost level, there is only slightly more power gained by holding boost steady, and testing showed much less repeatable, dependable power. This was a result of pushing the turbocharger past its optimal efficiency range. With our boost curve, the turbocharger still has room to provide optimal boost without working past its efficiency range.

    The factory computer also decreases the maximum desired power output at higher altitudes to prevent overworking the turbocharger. By maintaining an accurate model of the engine performance with our tune, this accurately maintains this same safety mechanism. Not all of the aftermarket tunes available for the Mazdaspeed3 and 6 do this.

    Will the Hypertech tuning work with aftermarket inlet pipes and downpipes?
    While we don't advertise our tunes to work with non-emission legal bolt-ons, we did take these popular mods into account when developing our tune. The additional power provided by the inlet pipe and exhaust system is immediately accounted for by the ECU, and because our tuning maintains an accurate engine model in the calibration, the gains are optimized with the addition of the aftermarket exhaust systems.

    Replacing the factory downpipe with a catless downpipe may cause some issues with it's capability to maintain accurate O2 sensor readings which the ECU expects to react a certain way while in closed loop operation. Replacing the factory catalyst is typically not EPA and CARB certified authorized, so we would not typically accommodate these modifications. In reality, as long as the replacement downpipe does not cause check engine lights due to poor O2 sensor readings, the Hypertech tuning will work great with any bolt-on exhaust modifications.

    Does the Hypertech tune require custom MAPS for basic bolt-on mods?
    The time we spent to develop this tune and ensure that all air mass and torque calculations are correct at the higher power levels create a perfect platform for bolt-on mods. Because these cars use a Mass Airflow Sensor to measure the incoming air, any additional air (power) provided by bolt-on mods will be accurately measured and immediately accounted for by the ECU, which will adjust the spark and fueling appropriately for the best, safe power we have already tuned for. Because our tuning maintains an accurate engine model in the calibration, there is no need for custom "maps".

    We correct the MAF calculations based on the type of air intake you have, and adjust the boost and load cut limits to work with the intake and exhaust mods, but leave them in place to protect the engine from mechanical failure.

    Not all of the aftermarket tunes for the Mazdaspeed3/6 do this.

    Will the Hypertech tune significantly increase the risk of engine failure under racing conditions?
    Our tune was specifically tested and tuned to maintain optimal efficiency of the engine and turbocharger even while providing more power output. In short, we made the best power possible without pushing the engine or turbocharger beyond what either is capable.

    That being said, the power increase in the higher RPMs is quite substantial after the stock horsepower peak around 5500RPM. I do worry that this substantial increase in power between 5500RPM and redline would cause some issues during some condition. With a stock tune, you would probably shift just after 5500RPM when power dramatically falls off, but with the Hypertech tune it's likely that you would maintain the higher RPMs longer, and at higher horsepower levels. I believe the engine and turbocharger would be fine here, but I do worry that the coolant system and catalytic converter could be in danger of overheating if these high powered, high RPMs are maintained for extended periods, especially in the summer heat. Throw on a short ram air intake with the filter in the engine bay, and I suspect the hot intake air would add to the increased heat in the coolant and exhaust systems.

    For most people and driving conditions I wouldn't worry about this at all, but this is a very extreme condition and I'm imagining the worst case possible. If the course was pushing you to drive at these higher RPMs quite a bit I would probably lower the rev limiter 500RPM and use that as a way to lower my shift points. Because the Hypertech tune has such a broad power curve, and tons of low RPM torque, this strategy should not hinder the performance of the car noticeably.

    All of the protection strategies that the factory tune uses are still in place. The Hypertech tune accurately models the engine power output which allows the ECU to precisely implement the protection strategies to prevent overboosting, overloading, and overheating the engine and catalyst. Even though these systems are in place to protect the powertrain, it is always much easier to prevent a problem than to stop one that is already occurring. We put a lot of time and effort into developing and testing this tune to ensure that it is not out of control, but prevention is still the best option.

    Why am I seeing less boost after selecting my air intake option in the Hypertech programmer than I was before?
    It is definitely possible for you to see less boost now that your MAF is correctly calibrated. Using the stock MAF calculation would make the ECU "think" the airflow is less than it really is. The ECU uses measured airflow at a given RPM to determine what boost level to maintain. Boost levels higher than those that we have tuned for, are unsafe at higher RPMs, and can cause damage to the turbo, and increased exhaust gas temperatures. With the MAF calibrated correctly, the ECU is properly controlling the engine to maintain a safe boost level at the higher RPM ranges. Your AFR's should be a bit richer, EGT's cooler, and you will experience less knock retard.

    We tune the boost to taper off at the higher RPM ranges. Our tune with the MAF properly calibrated should have peak boost between 18-19 PSI and taper off as the RPM's increase to keep from overworking the turbo.

    You may not see 18-19 psi all the time. The ECU will adjust the boost levels based on lots of parameters. More boost doesn't always equal more power. If you increase the amount of air moving in and out of the engine, it doesn't require as much boost to maintain the same power levels. Think about airing up a tire; 30 PSI in a motorcycle tire vs. 30 PSI in your car tire. Which one has more air in it? So 15 psi with the bigger intake and exhaust is going to be more airflow than 15 psi with the stock intake and exhaust.

  18. #18
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    i see 2 pages of and about the only thing worth reading is this:
    We tune the boost to taper off at the higher RPM ranges. Our tune with the MAF properly calibrated should have peak boost between 18-19 PSI and taper off as the RPM's increase to keep from overworking the turbo.

    You may not see 18-19 psi all the time. The ECU will adjust the boost levels based on lots of parameters. More boost doesn't always equal more power. If you increase the amount of air moving in and out of the engine, it doesn't require as much boost to maintain the same power levels. Think about airing up a tire; 30 PSI in a motorcycle tire vs. 30 PSI in your car tire. Which one has more air in it? So 15 psi with the bigger intake and exhaust is going to be more airflow than 15 psi with the stock intake and exhaust.
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
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  19. #19
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    Nov 2008
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    I still don't think that a different intake map will change the boost levels I see... MAP sensor is different altogether.

  20. #20

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    For reference, Fujita F5 intake is 2.75", which is 70mm..

    As it is not stored as a native profile for the Hypertech, the closest match for 2.75 would be the Mazdaspeed intake, or the Corksport one, which are both 2.75"

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