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Thread: Disconnecting plumb back hose from stock BOV

  1. #21

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    Ahhh Kool as mine very rarely pops!!! makes more of a pssshhhh or flutter sound than anything!!! since fitting up the SRI intake noise is great!!!

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    4,540

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    Yeah I get the flutter noise on light release. My set-up still turns heads with the BOV blanked. Lol, last time I had it VTA I was in the city and forgot, a bus cut in front and I put my foot down to avoid hitting a kerb. With all the buildings around there was a loud pshhhh echo and everyone (peak hour period) in Perth stopped and looked....oops! Some people were looking past me with excitement for a skyline haha.

  3. #23

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    yeah love surprising most people (IE most never expect it to come from an Audi)

  4. #24

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    The Turbosmart BOV should be set up working from the red limit line, screwing in from there, counting turns - you have all sorts of reference points to enable turns to be counted accurately. Keep notes with dates and "no. of turns in from zero". I used a minimum turn of 0.25 (1/4) turns at a time. The best way to get a start point is to screw the cap all the way in until it cannot be screwed further (be gentle, don't heave on it to tighten it, just turn in until it won't turn further), then unscrew it again, exactly six turns out. Then you should see the red limit line under the edge of the cap. Do not unscrew further or you will wear bits of cap, piston and spring. Do it over a few days and several drives under varying conditions.

    There are instructions with the TS BOV. Screw in until you have no backfires and popping. Your desired setting will vary according to whether or not you are 50:50 or 100% Bypass, as well as other mods, so I can't tell you a specific number of turn in to screw the cap. Try 1 turn in to start, then drive the car a while. The object is to keep spring pressure as light as possible to ensure enough air is going to bypass to prevent any tendency of the turbo to stall, but not so light as to promote backfires, and to discharge the remainder to atmosphere, if running 50:50. If running 100% then a fairly open setting will keep air going to the turbo intake side pretty happily, but care needs to be taken to ensure the setting isn't too tight.

    Start light in all cases. That said, I screwed mine in experimentally to 5 turns in without dramas, but this was pre-FMIC and SB set at 17.5psi. On 50:50 Bypass setups, lighter settings will "chuff" more easily, but don't just settle for pure "noise" - or "as loud as possible", listen to what the BOV sound is telling you about 1st and 2nd phase discharges - (i.e. 1st "whrrrr" is to Bypass, 2nd "chuffff" is to atmosphere). Listen for backfires and largely eliminate them. Heavy and prolonged backfires are associated with problems I described earlier.
    Last edited by Doug_MPS6; 13-12-2010 at 04:45 PM.
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    4,540

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    Cheers for that description Doug!

  6. #26

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    Will give it another go over tonight!!!

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug_MPS6 View Post
    The Turbosmart BOV should be set up working from the red limit line, screwing in from there, counting turns - you have all sorts of reference points to enable turns to be counted accurately. Keep notes with dates and "no. of turns in from zero". I used a minimum turn of 0.25 (1/4) turns at a time. The best way to get a start point is to screw the cap all the way in until it cannot be screwed further (be gentle, don't heave on it to tighten it, just turn in until it won't turn further), then unscrew it again, exactly six turns out. Then you should see the red limit line under the edge of the cap. Do not unscrew further or you will wear bits of cap, piston and spring. Do it over a few days and several drives under varying conditions.

    There are instructions with the TS BOV. Screw in until you have no backfires and popping. Your desired setting will vary according to whether or not you are 50:50 or 100% Bypass, as well as other mods, so I can't tell you a specific number of turn in to screw the cap. Try 1 turn in to start, then drive the car a while. The object is to keep spring pressure as light as possible to ensure enough air is going to bypass to prevent any tendency of the turbo to stall, but not so light as to promote backfires, and to discharge the remainder to atmosphere, if running 50:50. If running 100% then a fairly open setting will keep air going to the turbo intake side pretty happily, but care needs to be taken to ensure the setting isn't too tight.

    Start light in all cases. That said, I screwed mine in experimentally to 5 turns in without dramas, but this was pre-FMIC and SB set at 17.5psi. On 50:50 Bypass setups, lighter settings will "chuff" more easily, but don't just settle for pure "noise" - or "as loud as possible", listen to what the BOV sound is telling you about 1st and 2nd phase discharges - (i.e. 1st "whrrrr" is to Bypass, 2nd "chuffff" is to atmosphere). Listen for backfires and largely eliminate them. Heavy and prolonged backfires are associated with problems I described earlier.
    Thanks for that, i got the turbosmart one, in black, it seems to blow off really easy so i just turn it in more, i dont have a red line, mines got a black line all the way around the silver bit which i can see if i screw the cap a fair whack out

  8. #28

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    ^^^ Yep that is the one I plan on getting for mine.

    holds boost much better, gets rid of the compressor surge and all without the fully sick bro ppppsssSSSSssshhhhh sound....

    By the way great info Doug

  9. #29

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    BUZURK, Hi, different coloured line, same function.

  10. #30

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    yeah i screwed a bit past it not knowing, but back to normal now everything seems ok

  11. #31

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    Sorry to bring up an old thread, i currently have the turbosmart plumback BPV in my MPS, but i purchased the dual port a few days back, and am awaiting its arrival,

    i bought it with the intention to run in it in 50:50 , and i am assuming that if i screw down the head enough, the spring tention will be enough to hold the BPV closed at low boost (say 8PSI) hence causing the infamous "chatter" sound and anything over 8PSI-ish will cause the piston to open and hence VTA and recirculate?

  12. #32

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    RAYD, I don't know your tune settings or boost pressure, but start with the cap turned in one turn from fully out [full out is 6 turns from the full in position and should expose the red (or in some cases black) limit line under the rim of the cap]. Test idle and run the car. If you have any backfires, progressively screw it in until regular backfiring ceases. At low pressures on 50:50, you will hear the BOV open with a quiet Prrrp sound as it sends air to bypass, while lifting of throttle at at higher boost pressures will cause the piston to rise above the bypass port and discharge the excess air to bypass AND to atmosphere, much as you describe. I'm guessing that 3 turns in might do it for you. Be patient. Do it over several days, driving in all types of situations, and increase turns by 1/4 turn each time until it all seems to be working well and there is minimal turbo lag (too little spring pressure will release more air than you need to and this will mean the turbo has to refill the plumbing again, creating a perceptible lag). But don't overtighten the cap as you will not get the bypass or blow-off functioning properly and the BOV will not do what it is designed to do - that is, protect the turbo from stalling on throttle lift-off. Oh, I forgot - ALSO - READ THE INSTRUCTIONS IT COMES WITH!
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

  13. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug_MPS6 View Post
    ALSO - READ THE INSTRUCTIONS IT COMES WITH!
    Well said

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