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View Poll Results: Has you alarm

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  • Had diagnosed faults?

    2 40.00%
  • Had false alarms?

    5 100.00%
  • Been suspected of being bypassed?

    1 20.00%
Multiple Choice Poll.
Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: OEM Alarm owners : Faults and false alarms query.

  1. #1
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    Default OEM Alarm owners : Faults and false alarms query.

    Please respond to poll
    Do you have an alarm that has had a known fault? Please post frequency of diagnosed faults and cause.
    Do you have an alarm that has triggered false alarms? Please post frequency and causes of false alarms, if known.
    Have you ever had cause to suspect your alarm and entry security was bypassed? Operative word is suspect. So if the cause is maybe you left your vehicle open, but you think it was locked, correct response is YES.

  2. #2
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    Jan 2009
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    Wahroonga
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nexus View Post
    Please respond to poll
    Do you have an alarm that has had a known fault? Please post frequency of diagnosed faults and cause.
    Do you have an alarm that has triggered false alarms? Please post frequency and causes of false alarms, if known.
    Have you ever had cause to suspect your alarm and entry security was bypassed? Operative word is suspect. So if the cause is maybe you left your vehicle open, but you think it was locked, correct response is YES.
    No Know "faults"
    False Alarms ALL THE TIME. Known triggers are: Loud exhausts (in underground carparks especially), trucks drivnig past, strong winds and hail.
    No suspected bypasses. But realise that an alarm does not turn your car into a safe

  3. #3
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    For me diagnosed fault indicated poor crimped connection, but this wasn't necessarily authoritative. No corrective action other than pushing crimps tight. Circumstantially seems other causes remain plausible. Now that I have a repeat, it needs to be soldered and crimps removed.
    False alarms : MANY, only legitimately caused ones are vibration - against the passenger front side of the vehicle - direct and strong water spray, loud V8 blasting past vehicle while parked. many other not accounted for, presumed to be due to fault.
    On two occasions, mine was unlawfully entered and the alarm did not activate. Only known reason for failure to trigger is the possibility the vehicle was left unlocked. I consider this unlikely.

    Strong wind and hail would both be vibration triggers, I think.
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Michelin PS5 - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - Corksport turbo manifold - HT 98 octane tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - Bespoke Raspberry Pi Android based GPS/Carplay and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold.

  4. #4
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    Default Precautionary steps.

    Have discussed with a couple of service agents. Steps I will be taking now are:
    (a) Having crimped alarm wiring soldered with heatshrink insulation instead - that'll only cost $70 - I could do it myself but would rather a auto electrician do it.
    This will rule out a bad crimp connection.
    (b) Having entry and ignition re-coded.

    This will cover everything except a duplicate physical key. Since a duplicate physical key would need barrels and keys modified or replaced I am not keen on this due to cost.

    Lastly am going to investigate what possibilities there are to modify or extend the existing alarm system. An inexpensive short time-delay secondary trigger that must be manually disarmed after the vehicle is entered may be possible.

    In the longer term, once I've got some long-planned permanent electronics installs on the go, there is the possibility of motion sensitive video recording from small web-cam type hardware that broadcasts the captured images over the internet.
    Last edited by Nexus; 24-09-2010 at 12:10 PM.
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Michelin PS5 - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - Corksport turbo manifold - HT 98 octane tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - Bespoke Raspberry Pi Android based GPS/Carplay and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold.

  5. #5
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    I voted Had diagnosed faults? and Had false alarms? When new it was set wrong and it went off all night in the wind because the garage was prepped for a party the next day and when we stayed at a friends place it was a windy night otherwise all good...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nexus View Post
    Have discussed with a couple of service agents. Steps I will be taking now are:
    (a) Having crimped alarm wiring soldered with heatshrink insulation instead - that'll only cost $70 - I could do it myself but would rather a auto electrician do it.
    This will rule out a bad crimp connection.
    (b) Having entry and ignition re-coded.

    This will cover everything except a duplicate physical key. Since a duplicate physical key would need barrels and keys modified or replaced I am not keen on this due to cost.

    Lastly am going to investigate what possibilities there are to modify or extend the existing alarm system. An inexpensive short time-delay secondary trigger that must be manually disarmed after the vehicle is entered may be possible.

    In the longer term, once I've got some long-planned permanent electronics installs on the go, there is the possibility of motion sensitive video recording from small web-cam type hardware that broadcasts the captured images over the internet.
    Even using the same key should trigger the alarm to go off as it hasn't been disarmed. So shouldn't be to bigger deal. Webcam is a great idea, you'll likely need one with an IR light on it to make at work when it's dark.

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