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Thread: How To: Aftermarket amplifier install into MPS using the factory BOSE amp (easy!)

  1. Talking How To: Aftermarket amplifier install into MPS using the factory BOSE amp (easy!)

    Gday guys,

    Yesterday I installed an aftermarket amplifier and subwoofer into my MPS 3 and it was easy!

    The youtube video I made explaining most of the stuff below can be found here YouTube - How to install aftermarket amp into Mazda 3 MPS / mazdaspeed

    This mod is highly RECOMMENDED because the stock bose sub sux for lack of a better word....There is no bass at all and after looking at it while it was supposedly "pumping" it didnt even move. My set up is probably 100 - 150watts RMS and it goes like crazy - especially because its a hatch. This completes the system very nicely with no more distortion or door rattle from having to turn the bass up.

    What I did was take off the drivers side seat by undoing 4 bolts. Then you can access the BOSE amplifier. There are 2 clips a white and blue clip. The one on the left (white) has 4 wires going into it. Here you will tap the white wire with blue stripe(+ve) and tap the white wire with gray stripe(-ve) to get an audio signal that is pure and un-equalized by the BOSE amp (im pretty sure its a clean signal). I tapped these using some dodgy joiner clips which I picked up from Jaycar also, I would suggest soldering as a better option.

    The next step is to tap the solid light blue wire on the blue clip, this is the remote signal which is 12Volts constant power when the accessory switch on your ignition is switched on. It isnt a true remote wire which only turns the amps on when the cd player turns on but its good enough and works fine.

    Now run the 3 wires under the seat to under the cd player/gear stick area which is adjacent to the drivers left hand side foot well. Run it to the other side. It is easy to pop these footwells off there is a screw which you pop out and just pull out.

    Now undo the footwell under the passenger seat to reveal a fuse box. Pull this towards you and then down and it will flop out. Pop the engine open and look to the left hand side just to the right of the battery. There is a mazda stencilled onto some plastic thing that you can pop off. Here there is a grommet. Run your power wire (which can be around 4 gauge) through here and get it from the passenger footwell.

    You dont need wire thicker than 4 gauge unless you are running over 1000watts RMS. Remember your ground and power wire should generally be the same gauge.

    If you want to run your amp into your glove box then you just pop this cover off in the back. And your wires can go right through.

    Ground wire can just be bolted to the body somewhere in the passenger footwell.

    The audio cable can be run from the glove box to the boot under the trim of the body just by sticking it in there with your fingernail.

    Finally the signal wires you ran from the bose amp need to connect to a high to low pass filter. I purchased one for $16 from jaycar and it works soo well. You could get one from autobahn it looked the same and it cost $2 less so really no difference. On the High low pass filter you just need to attach the wires and then run an RCA cable from it to your new amp.


    In the end the bose amp and STOCK SUB still work, plus I have insane bass and more of that dreaded mazda rattle


    The high low pass filter is soo effective as a makeshift pre-amp that I have all the settings on the amp OFF (no gain, no bass boost nothing...) and its going hard.


    p.s. no signs of over heating the amp in the glove box after running the system hard for 4 hours straight and the sub is a 10inch sony xplode so nothing special. Also JB-HI wanted to charge me $170 to tap into the Bose amp and run my new amp...it wasnt that hard lol


    If you have any questions go for it, if not go out and do this mod!


    MPS1
    Last edited by MPS1; 12-09-2010 at 03:22 PM.

  2. #2
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    Cool stuff mate.

    Whats the specs on the current BOSE amp???

    I know the Sub is rubbish, would there be much benefit from just putting a sub in the hatch and running the wiring from the amp to the new sub, and maybe having it re tuned?

  3. #3

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    So to clarify.. The extra amp you added is only running your 10" sub?? Or does it help boost the stock speakers as well??



    EDIT: Did you have to recalibrate the weight sensors after you removed the seats?
    Last edited by Duk; 23-10-2010 at 09:22 PM.

  4. #4

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    I did this to my car the other day... A couple of notes...

    I did it without removing the chair... Painful but doable lol.

    Was wandering if it would have been better to tap the wires from the clip next to the sub?

    Wen I went to fire it up... I couldn't get an audio signal through the hi/low level box... So I just used some cable lying around...
    Female rca -> 2x male rac. Then cut the end off a single male-male rca and attatched the 2 wires I tapped from the amp... I can remember which one went to tip/sleeve. Dodgy but works

    Also I put the amp under the false floor in the boot. Fits nice and snug.

    So yeah lovin my 2x12s now... Soooo much better. Let me kno if anyone wants pics or have q's.

  5. #5
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    does this boost quality of bose speakers or just to run an extra sub?

    Thanks

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by langer5489 View Post
    I did this to my car the other day... A couple of notes...

    I did it without removing the chair... Painful but doable lol.

    Was wandering if it would have been better to tap the wires from the clip next to the sub?

    Wen I went to fire it up... I couldn't get an audio signal through the hi/low level box... So I just used some cable lying around...
    Female rca -> 2x male rac. Then cut the end off a single male-male rca and attatched the 2 wires I tapped from the amp... I can remember which one went to tip/sleeve. Dodgy but works

    Also I put the amp under the false floor in the boot. Fits nice and snug.

    So yeah lovin my 2x12s now... Soooo much better. Let me kno if anyone wants pics or have q's.
    Had the same problem with no signal from the Hi-lo filter into my amp, so took that out of the equation and just ran the wires from the OEM Bose amp to my amp and worked fine. Might save people a few dollars if they try this first before buying the hi-lo filter.

  7. #7

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    Pics all round would be good please.

  8. #8

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    I just completed this install on Saturday.. It turned out great and the install isn't too hard took me about 3 hours roughly and that's because I didn't have the relevant tools..

  9. Default

    I have a couple questions, before I start removing my seat and stuff.
    Is there any possibility to adjust the settings on the bose amp?
    Or could you just replace the stock sub and use the bose amp?
    Thanks

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BazzaR View Post
    I have a couple questions, before I start removing my seat and stuff.
    Is there any possibility to adjust the settings on the bose amp?
    Or could you just replace the stock sub and use the bose amp?
    Thanks

    I don't know if you can adjust the stock amp, i don't think you can all the adjustments have to be made from the head unit which is limited.

    You can replace the stock sub with an aftermarket amp which can get its signal from the stock amp, this is done via a cross over once you snip the wires to the sub, then after thats is like you would normally run a sub of any amp.
    MPSX-treme

    2006 MPS Sports True Red - HP-F Mazedit tune + Other go fast bits - DGR Coilovers + Semi Slicks - Numerous Sure Motorsport Additions - Dashhawk

  11. #11

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    Old thread bump....

    I dont fully understand what this achieves? Are you putting a better amp onto the stock bose sub? Or stealing the wires FROM the stock bose amp and running a separate amp and sub?

    Whats connected to the stock bose amp? Just the sub? Or the speakers and everything?

    If were taking the wires from the bose amp, im assuming the bose sub stops working? This is what i want to achieve, i just cant wrap my head around on what happened here!

    Also, the youtube link is no longer available

  12. #12
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    @Ben992

    I know the question wasn't directed at me but I think i half answered it in you original thread , PM if you have any further q's

  13. #13
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    Default Re: How To: Aftermarket amplifier install into MPS using the factory BOSE amp (easy!)

    Read it again.

    There key word here is "tap". Essentially they are stealing signal and trigger power from the original system to feed a amp and sub.

    The original system remains in place and keeps working.

    For me, I would replace the sub as a new sub would surely take up space in the boot area in the form of a big bass response box.

    Anyway, good detail, thanks for the thread @MPS1

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