User Tag List

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 36

Thread: Almost new owner of a mazda 6 mps

  1. Smile Almost new owner of a mazda 6 mps

    Hi guys

    im almost buying a mazda 6 mps , but still got some doubts here , can someone tell me if september 2007 model still had the clutch problem ?

    and i would want to know whats REAL fuel consumption of the car

    i rarely drive on city,mostly highway , so i wanna know if its possible to do the 10 litre per 100km announced by mazda or is it impossible

    thisi s gonna be a daily car (about 40 km ) per day

    i currently own a subaru legacy 2.0 non-turbo and its doing 9 liters / 100 km, and i dont wanna do a mistake and trade it for car that will consume alot more fuel

    hope u can help make up my mind if i buy MPS or not

    Thanks

  2. Default

    Congrats on deciding to purchase an MPS6 you most definately wont be disappointed.

    The 2007 model would have the revised "better" less grabby clutch, althought tbh it does take some getting used to and the car is still quite stallable epecially in reverse. Coming from a subaru you should find it similar though, I personally found it similar to my subaru clutch.

    My fuel consumption sits on about 11.3 average and I like to give the car a good go fairly often. If your mostly highway driving though I would say you could quite easily sit on avg between 9.5 and 10.5 which is great for what the car is. On long highway trips I have averaged 9.0 easily on mountain type drives.

    Definately buy one would be my recommendation partic if you are used to and addicted to the AWD feel coming from a subaru.

    Have you test driven a few of them ? Whereabouts are you located. there are a few models on sale here from members.

    Good luck in finding your MPS6 and we look forward to hearing more from you and having you as a member of our OZMPS community
    Taken my boring, bland, lame Subaru and my fat ass and driven off into the sunset with a smile on my face

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Age
    59
    Posts
    8,042

    Default

    Welcome, I can't comment on the 6 but my MPS3 always achieves over 500 k's with a 55ltr tank and some are lucky to get 400k's. I put it down to several things 1. The way you drive 2. How the car is tuned 3. The mods you do. 4. Tyre pressure.... Now even with mods done can improve your fuel consumption and i have proved that with all my cars I have owned including the MPS even on track day i can achieve 450k's + from a tank full, on a cruise day with some fun I just achieved 519ltrs and filled up and took 46.79ltrs or just recently from hwy driving non stop with the car fully loaded with 3 occupants and luggage I achieved 621k's and when I filled up next it took 49.83ltrs of fuel. I hope this helps.....
    Last edited by 240MPS; 30-07-2010 at 05:44 PM.

  4. Default

    thanks for reply

    well the car im looking at is a service car from mazda with still 2 year manufactury warranty,it has 40000 Km and its from september 2007 , dark grey , fully stock

    im just waiting for seller to call me if he accept my proposal or not

    on my country theres almost no gasoline cars above 2000cc , everything diesel

    gasoline very expensive here 1.40 € / litre ( 1.83 USD )

    well if i buy it , ill do a full detail to it ,use my swissvax concorso on it and it will shine more than ever

  5. #5

    Default

    as said above the 2007 should have the less grabby clutch.. however i have early model with the original clutch and i dont really see wat all the fuss is about.

    I drive about 35k's each way to work in medium-heavy traffic on the highways and get under 11L/100k's without trying. probably closer to 10.5. On long highway trips (about 200k's) i've averaged 8L/100k's

    The 6MPS is a great car, I'm sure you'll love it

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    4,540

    Default

    As Toddy mentioned above, I too have experienced around 8.5-9.0L on highway driving and I think I could have done better. I drive into the city every day and currently averaging 11.6. In saying that a lot of my time is idling in typical city traffic! The only bad thing with the MPS is your urge to put your foot down and have some fun which blows money out the exhaust pipe. If you drive it reasonable I think you will be happy with the economy and the car in general. BTW I used to have a Mazda 6 Luxury Sport (non turbo) 2.3L which averaged around 7-8L/100 and when on highway drop to 6.5-7L/100 I remember hitting 790kms to a tank once and still going

    Check out my RR link below and Toddy's link located under our signatures for info and pics on our ride if you like

    With great power comes great fuel consumption...
    M P S
    - 6 - RR | Cobb AP | CAI | TIP | ATP GTX28R | 3.25" TMIC | SS DP | REM | 3" Zorst | SSP Anchors & Countershift | DBA Rotors | K/Springs | Upper & Lower Bracing | Alpine Type S 12" sub MRP-M500 Amp
    | Grille | STi Lip | Shark Fin | 6000K HID | Fog Light Tint | Twin DEFI gauges | Custom Decals & Badges | LED lighting | CF Mirrors & Pillars | Black rims Red callipers

  7. #7

    Default

    THUNDERCATPT, Hi. I have kept my fuel log since day one. Most of my driving is local commute over 13km each way to work and back. I have logged a total average of 12.57l/100km for that. But longer distance drives, holidays and touring around, in which I usually run in the 110-120 speed range conditions permitting, but with occasional blasts to pass the minnows, I easily achieve 9 - 9.5l/100km.

    I hear that the 2007 clutch is "better". Not sure what that means because as others here know, I never had any issues with the original clutch and in fact I like it as it is. I figure folks who routinely stall just lack finesse.

    I wouldn't stress over either clutch or fuel burn. Whatever clutch you have softens up in time, as will your ability to deal with it, and fuel costs will vary and influence your wallet more than +/- a few l/100km consumption, especially since you control a lot of that yourself. If you are doing lots of country running, you should shoe-in the 10l/100 limit you are hoping for.

    Don't overlook the fact that you are considering swapping a 2.0 litre non-turbo for a 2.3 turbo, so expecting the same fuel burn is a bit like expecting a free lunch. That said, whatever fuel you will burn, whether or less or more, and any concerns about it, will be far and away offset by the extra power you should delight in. You will get a better lunch. I don't know how many Kw the Legacy turns out but it's a given that it's nowhere near that of the MPS. The very tall 6th gear of the MPS gives it ultra long legs and hence great economy but it will still pull stumps and easily carries the car at highway speeds without frequent down-shifts on your long daily runs and thus save you $$. And you will have a better-finished car that performs as cars should.
    Last edited by Doug_MPS6; 30-07-2010 at 07:37 PM.
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

  8. Default

    hi. Thanks for replys,u guys been great and helpful,now i wait for mazda seller call to see if he accepts my conditions. Thanks

  9. Default

    well seller accepted my proposal,so its up to me to decide now



    so i can count the car will perfectly do between 9 - 11 with a moderate driving,not pushing much for it ?

    does the car as any known problem or will it do many miles without giving any problem , only regular maintainance ?

    u guys put oil 5w - 40 on it ?

  10. Default

    about gasoline, mazda says to use 98 , but its very expensive here, will it damage engine in any way if i use 95 ?

  11. #11

    Default

    In Australia, they say to use minimum 95, and I don't have problems on it.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    9,459

    Default

    i use 98 RON, and i can get anything from 13L/100 to 7.5L/100 depends alot on traffic
    i have a 3MPS, so not sure what difference that'll make... but feel free to click on my fuely link in signature, it shows you how much it can vary

  13. Default

    about engine oil

    5W40 ???

    any known problems of the car , or usual problems ?

    thanks all

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    4,540

    Default

    I used 5W40 Fully Synthetic last time I serviced my car. Depending on conditions I think that oil is best suited. You can find some handy tips etc from the link below. Scroll down to the bottom to find a couple of links dedicated to typical problems related to the MPS 3 and 6. Have a read of that for a bit of information. Typically there not too many issues. I may need a new water pump soon (done 30,000kms) due to seal deterioration and a slow leak. Other people have experienced the 'white smoke problem' A few other things here and there which is typical in ANY car really. But have a look at the link. It's dedicated to 'issues' members have experienced which should give you a good idea!

    http://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/tech-...d-vehicle.html

    Hope that helps

    With great power comes great fuel consumption...
    M P S
    - 6 - RR | Cobb AP | CAI | TIP | ATP GTX28R | 3.25" TMIC | SS DP | REM | 3" Zorst | SSP Anchors & Countershift | DBA Rotors | K/Springs | Upper & Lower Bracing | Alpine Type S 12" sub MRP-M500 Amp
    | Grille | STi Lip | Shark Fin | 6000K HID | Fog Light Tint | Twin DEFI gauges | Custom Decals & Badges | LED lighting | CF Mirrors & Pillars | Black rims Red callipers

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,388

    Default

    Congrats on almost Deciding to get the 6 MPS

    This is my fuelly link - mix of about 40/60 country/city driving FYI

    Belle (Mazda Speed6) | Fuelly

    With oil, best to check the manufacturers spec as this will vary due to local conditions/temps etc in Aust the spec is 5W 30 though should probably be a 40 due to our warmer climate!

    Good luck with the decisions mate and Welcome to OzMPSclub.com
    R36 - Just like an MPS6 except with a growly V6

  16. Default

    thanks guys

    ---------- Post added at 05:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:56 PM ----------

    so i see the car has lots of problems with turbo ?

    besides turbo whats main problems of it , that appear on most users

    so i can check that out on the car

    thanks

    ---------- Post added at 05:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:04 PM ----------

    to say this is the best forum i register, i made this questions on other mazda foruns and got 1 or 0 replies to my thread, people here are really helpfull , so thanks for helping me

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    9,459

    Default

    basically, SOME cars have turbo problems, and this is known by mazda, and should be fixed under warranty at no cost to you (labour maybe...)
    the way to test the turbo is to let the car idle for 20 minutes, then floor it in neutral, if blue smoke comes out, turbo problems
    the other issue that seems to come up a bit, is rear engine mount, and the general opinion seems to be that you should get an aftermarket one (CPE 60 or CPE 75 seem to be the most common ones to get)
    my understanding is that a bad rear engine mount isnt anything too serious... but am sure someone will correct me on this if im wrong
    (neither issue has happened to me... they just both appear to be the most common issues i've heard of)
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  18. Default

    yes , turbo and rear mount looks to be the most general problems

    about engine monuts for what ive seen , they should only be changed if you use this car very hard,if you a normal driver and just give it a push sometimes ,stock mounts should probably be fine,but rear mounts are not expensive,problem is to mount them,is it easy ? or dies it have to take engine off ?

    any goos shop selling these mounts ? especially in europe

    thanks

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    9,459

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by thundercatpt View Post
    yes , turbo and rear mount looks to be the most general problems

    about engine monuts for what ive seen , they should only be changed if you use this car very hard,if you a normal driver and just give it a push sometimes ,stock mounts should probably be fine,but rear mounts are not expensive,problem is to mount them,is it easy ? or dies it have to take engine off ?

    any goos shop selling these mounts ? especially in europe

    thanks
    i know of a number of people (cton being one) who use their car as a daily driver, and i know he's impressed by the difference the engine mount made
    there is a guide here: http://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/how-t...pressions.html
    claim is it can be done in 30-60 minutes, i honestly wouldnt know, but assuming you have the right tools, i figure it should be easy enough...
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    4,540

    Default

    The link I attached in my last post goes into a little detail of what to look for in a used vehicle, however when I wrote it, it was based upon experiences with the MPS. Sarcasticone, myself and other members have talked about problems and what to look for and such on some other threads, you're welcome to search for them if you like.

    Myself, and in particular, Sarcasticone, made some helpful comments, so I took some of those ideas and comprised the 'hints and tips' thread. Part of what I mentioned in that thread was from Sarcasticone's comments discussed in another thread. Basically a means for new or exsisting members to find and read a whole thread dedicated to looking for used vehicle and also detailing any or ALL problems in the 3/6 (rather than searching for info) Pretty much the whole 'let it idle and give it throttle to check for smoke' among other things to look for on the 6.

    Personally I haven't had too many drama's. But I'll detail any/all the problems I have experienced. My suspension upper ball joint requires replacing, but appears to have been knocked prior to owning the vehicle. Typical. I may need a new water pump (looking into it now) The MPS' may have camber issues, resulting in increased tyre wear. I advise getting an alignment and camber adjustment to save you buying tyres (I'm contemplating this too) and that's about it for me as far as 'issues'.

    Shakespeare has had new High tensile strength bolts mounting the rear diff in place as the standard ones sheared I believe.

    As far as the rear engine mount, no its not too hard to install yourself as myself and a mate installed it on his car. Just need a hydraulic jack in place to provide support for the motor enabling you to remove and replace the offending mount. It will most likely come with instructions too (mate got his used)

    I agree with Sarcasticone in that the stock rear engine is not too bad. Basically the material the stock engine mount is made of has not quite the right properties to support that amount of torque (hence motor flex) By changing the mount, the motor should have less flex under torque and also results in a smoother transmission. I don't believe it is a necessary mod, however if your finances allow you could consider it. I have faith that Mazda designed a mount that would not determinate the motor is such a bad way, happy to be stood corrected also on that one though, those are just my opinions.

    With great power comes great fuel consumption...
    M P S
    - 6 - RR | Cobb AP | CAI | TIP | ATP GTX28R | 3.25" TMIC | SS DP | REM | 3" Zorst | SSP Anchors & Countershift | DBA Rotors | K/Springs | Upper & Lower Bracing | Alpine Type S 12" sub MRP-M500 Amp
    | Grille | STi Lip | Shark Fin | 6000K HID | Fog Light Tint | Twin DEFI gauges | Custom Decals & Badges | LED lighting | CF Mirrors & Pillars | Black rims Red callipers

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •