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Thread: Boost solenoid hose rearrangement

  1. Default Boost solenoid hose rearrangement

    I used the shorter hose to seal both nipples on the boost solenoid, and the longer for the intake pipe and actuator...
    I can feel the difference in boost... i dont have a guage, but my mps runs hell rich exhaust tip gets black immidiatly after cleaning it...

    Has any one with a guage tried this before??
    At what PSI does the boost cut come in effect???

  2. #2

    Default

    hmmm

    boost cut happens at 18 PSI

    SO you have looped the boost solenoid, and I assume your running an MBC now?

    If you not you just running off the actuator spring pressure?

    Why have you done this? I cant get my head around it

  3. Default

    Just to see if i got a boost increase.... hit boost cut.....
    at round 4500rpm.....
    No i just looped solenoid, and ran the longer hose to inlet pipe ...
    Hit boost cut so ive put it back as it is from factory...

    I didnt attach a boost controller of any sort to it was just a rearangement of hoses...

    ---------- Post added at 06:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:55 PM ----------

    Redone it again, boost has gone up and no boost cut, its dark now ill take a pic of what i done and post it...
    i wish i had a boost gauge to see what difference in boost it has made..

  4. #4

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    by doing that you've just forced the waste gate 100% shut and you will have no boost contol. It'll go up to about 18psi then cut. or blow up

    Why would you do that?

    If you want to run off spring pressure all you have to do it unplug the factory EBCS (electrical plug). but that only runs about 10psi
    Last edited by Toddy22587; 23-07-2010 at 08:21 PM.

  5. Default

    Didnt hit cut on 3rd this time around....
    It doesnt feel as quik as when it was hitting cut but quiker than having it all as it came from factory...
    If it spikes to high it will cut to prevent damage if its not cutting im not going over 18psi.....
    Even with DSC on still torque steers like crazy and the tyres squeel, but no cut

    Its finally quiker than my CRX

    ---------- Post added at 06:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:40 PM ----------

    Will take it for a good drive tonight if i hear the detonation rattle ill put all hoses back to right spots, if it dont hit cut at all ill check the plugs tomorow, to see if its running too lean or signs of detonation... or ill just book in for a dyno run with mixture and psi readings ....

  6. #6

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    your crazy.

    It will allow massive and dangerous boost spikes to occur without cutting. I have seen 22psi and know others who have seen more (not stock). Its not a good thing.

    Get a dashhawk. Then you can watch live mixture and boost readings all day

    How long have you had the car for? i'm assuming its a 3MPS due to the torque steer

  7. Default

    Where can i get a dashhawk in WA???
    seems to pull harder in 1st and 2nd than 3rd or 4th....
    Is there a reason why it wouldnt cut if it goes over 18psi??
    I imagine the ECU reads manifold pressure and if it sees more than 18psi it will cut imediatly....
    I as i said before when i had the solenoid looped and actuator plugged to point just before turbo it was cutting in 3rd on wards, and felt lot quicker, now still feels quiker than stock boosst but not as fast as when it was hitting cut...
    The Base maps in the MPS runs a real rich mixture, my is shocking on fuel, tail pipe is full of soot... ive run a fuel sys cleaner last week...
    Ive heard detonation plenty of times ( my s15 was over boosted by a garage that no longer is in bussiness,), and doesnt mazda design their ecus to cut or engine light flash if it detecs detonation??
    This is my 1st Mazda so im still learning.... Im a honda man at heart

  8. #8

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    Anybody who plays with boost levels without a boost gauge is asking for trouble.

    Only safe way is on a dyno monitoring air / fuel ratios

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,388

    Default

    Hi mate, I'm no expert, but I'd suggest reading up on the DISI motor a bit more before you play too much, don't want to see you going boom! They run rich due to the Direct injection and cooling properties of fuel! I'd invest in a dashhawk as Toddy mentioned, order off ebay or through the US, these are a great diagnostic tool and have specific Mazda PID's.

    Good luck with this mate

  10. #10

    Default

    dont think you can get a dashhawk in WA.. mainly from USA.

    Not sure of the reason but i can get data logs to show this. I've also seen 18.1psi @ 4000ish rpm with no cut.

    Have you got any mods on the car?

  11. #11

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    LOCOTE, I'm not sure why one would do this. All you're doing is testing a limit that has no practical value and only a few foreseeable outcomes, none of them good.

    I'd take your car back to stock to fix your over-fuelling and sooting first, and then work gently along lines recommended by others here to build to a nicely chooned engine. Don't carry over Honda thinking here. Turbo'ed engines are a different can of worms altogether and while largely understood, it remains in some ways a black art.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,388

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Doug_MPS6 View Post
    LOCOTE, I'm not sure why one would do this. All you're doing is testing a limit that has no practical value and only a few foreseeable outcomes, none of them good.

    I'd take your car back to stock to fix your over-fuelling and sooting first, and then work gently along lines recommended by others here to build to a nicely chooned engine. Don't carry over Honda thinking here. Turbo'ed engines are a different can of worms altogether and while largely understood, it remains in some ways a black art.
    There are some practitioner's in the dark arts here on this forum

    However I take it you're from WA, feel free to join us on our next club cruise and you can have a chat to some of the guys who have played a little with their MPS'

    http://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/club-...ly-2010-a.html
    R36 - Just like an MPS6 except with a growly V6

  13. #13

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    This thread hurts my head..

    Throw a boost indicator of some sorts.. And a ball and spring boost controller. Set it to 17.. No cut..

    It has to see over 18 psi for a second or two coupled with a sustained high load.

    For the sake of your rods, and the rest of us here.. Put it back together untill you have some monitoring gear.

    I'm all for free mods.. But this one sounds expersive

    cheers mate
    doc

  14. Default

    I put it all back yesterday arvo.....
    Ill be going to auto salon today...
    I might pick my self up a boost controller either digital or a manual one with a guage.....
    Does it tend to go a bit laggier with a manual bleeder???
    I just want something that will hold boost with out hitting cut...
    Mods are apexi air intake that is it....
    This my daily driver, i just want a lil more power than stock.....
    For thoses that have tried both type of boost controllers was buying the digital worth it over the manual??

  15. #15

    Default

    apexi air intake..

    umm.. thats for a wrx.. and even though the maf sensor will fit.. its diameter is wrong for the ECU calibration.. and will throw your long term fuel trims off (LTFT).

    The ball and spring manual controller will be much less laggy than anything you will fit..

    There are two types of MBC's (manual boost controllers) bleeder types, and ball and spring types. Google it.. have a read..

    if you want to go manual, get (As i said earlier) a ball and spring type (turbo XS high performance for example). This will leave the wastegate line with no pressure in it (very fast spool) until the manifold pressure reaches/exceeds the spring pressure on the ball, and it then opens the ball, which opens the wastegate. The best part of the turbo xs MBC is that it also incorporates a variable bleeder port too, which you can then dial out any boost spikes, once you get your boost set it 4th gear

    no cut.. as long as you set it to 16 or 17.. i suggest you start with 15 my friend..

    have a read.. have a search.. make your own INFORMED decisions. These will serve you best.. rather than some dude (like me) ranting on about this and that and what he likes.

    cause if you make it go boom (.. I'm not being nasty.. but you were on that path).. you'll know who to blame

  16. Default

    I got a turbosmart boost tee....
    its ball and spring..
    So how much has the apexi intake trown my ECU out??
    Whats the best way to fit the boost controller??

  17. #17

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    do not fit it until you get a boost gauge

    then follow this..

    DO NOT go to step 2 until step one is carried out

    Mazdaspeed Forums

    youll need to get a dashhawk to see what your fuel trims are at..

    Good luck mate.. start off gentle and work your way up

    Research.. google... have a read before you jump in

    Doc

  18. #18

    Default

    Wind the boost up till it detonates, then, back it off 0.1 psi, SWEET!

    DashHawk. speedunlimited.com USA for $269.88 US + postage Australian $ converted approx $295.00 +postage

    YouTube - Dashhawk MS3

  19. #19

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    dont say that man.. he may do it

  20. Default

    lol...
    Just found a profec B for sale ill fit that instead...
    Ill book it in to get it fitted while on dyno so it can be set up safely...
    Ill use the boost tee for my crx...
    Cheers guys

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