Doc let me know how log was. I resent u a zipped folder . Wise choice Doc. CD not good reviews in USA.
Doc let me know how log was. I resent u a zipped folder . Wise choice Doc. CD not good reviews in USA.
Wow, you guys and your fuel pump upgrades. I'm still running the stock FP and am yet to see a need for an upgrade. Mine barely drops below 10,000 Kpa when on boost.
HAHAHAHAHAHAHA!
Sparking glow plugs??? Are they like better than Iridiums???
I don't remember seeing them on Fast & Furious...
I believe that 800 psi and stumbling through the rev range is enough to do the pump. When the air temp is above 15 I have no problems. Remember your not on the stock tune, are prob leaned out a little, and not demanding 10s in your afr. I find it unlikely you have tested in the cold either.. I'll be interested in your findings... if you really want to proove your pump is up to the task that is...
So, wouldn't it be a better option to tune the car, rather than get a fuel pump upgrade?
Playing with that much PSI would definately require expert advice and a qualified mechanic to do it 100% accurate. If done wrong and theres a pin hole leak, it can cut your fingers off if you go near it.
Achievements
2009 Jamboree Street Compact Winner
Aust. Quickest and Fastest MPS
12.3 seconds @ 111Mph.
Proven over the Qtr mile
Another Mazda 3 MPS - Almost fully bolted - Waiting for a turbo upgrade - The weekend hack.
Toyota Yaris - Coilovers, rollcage, raceseats, harnesses, 18s - Also waiting for a turbo upgrade.
2011 AWD Territory - White and Slightly lowered on 22s - The tow car.
2011 RWD Territory - Black on black and slammed on 22s - The family transporter.
after certifying for large commercial aircraft as a Licenced engineer for the past 10 years. Ive seen my fair share of 3000psi hydraulic pin hole leaks. They mist, they do not cut holes in things... or people.. unless you wrap your hand directly arround it, and then in that case.. you deserve it.
And id rather have the pump working at 60% capacity than 99%..
But its just me..
Doc
My PTP bits Arrived in less than 10 Days.
Installed them on Saturday was super anal about keeping things clean.
assembled Parts Cleaned Dried and Re Assembled..
the break in i found was strange.. the pump is definatly noiser.. and obviously is still wearing in ... 180kms in (100 odd miles) i still cant open it fully up yet.. its getting quieter but the first 100 miles were a little dodgey as anything more than light throttle was fuel cut imo the kit could almost use a stiffer spring as the internals can stick ever so slightly.... its getting better progressivly hopefully it quietens down even more in the next day or two other wise assume parts have failed.. other than that parts arrived excessivly well packaged and timely.... if in the case they have failed will just re assemble with factory internals and send failed parts back for a lifetime warranty replacement
do you not have a dashhawk to monitor your fuel pressure?
---------- Post added at 01:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:59 AM ----------
id re run the break in procedure where you rev and hold.. for the different RPMs
report further.. Mine are inbound from PTP as we speak
I do not have a Dask Hawk i have Autoenginuity tool which is a pc interface. but i cant be bothered pulling it out mainly because i dont own a pc laptop.. and need a pc for the stupid software..
Internals are getting quieter and fuel cuts occouring less and less.. (apparently you can expect a few violents ones to occour while the parts are still new)
Everything was surgically clean when i installed never touched the internals with my fingers.. only Medical gloves and yar.. didnt use oil when assembling the bits.. only on the o rings etc that are in the housing..
I did the Rev Hold Break in proceedure
I was under the impression you were supposed to soak the internals in a 10 weight synthetic motor oil ...
OIL! i think fuel doc..
Gees when i put my fuel pump internals in i did no break in procedure. All i did was fit the kit, start the car, check for any leaks and then got in and drove it..... over 18 months later the car is still going strong and the pump is still pumping like a champ.
i beleive u doc
oh you guys...
Hmm.. looks like i may have ended up with a Fail Pump..
it noisy and still fuel cutting.. sounds like a bad noisy Tappet..
I followed the instructions that were Enclosed to a "T"
will pull down tomorrow and post the bits back.. they have been really helpful tho at PTP.. so props for supportive emails and fast responses..
---------- Post added at 12:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:34 AM ----------
I followed the peice of paper they gave me in the packaging what ever they said i did... mine didnt mention oil :-S apart from obvious things like o Rings etc..
I only mention the krystms garage walk thru as it was the walk thru i read prior to deciding to upgrade the pump
OK So are these cars supposed to have a Cam follower for the Fuel Pump...??
Because... nos such thing is in existance in my car... :|
Im not 100% certain.. as i have not yet done the install
"You then flip the pump assembly over onto an 11mm or 7/16 socket and lightly “tap” on the end of the pump piston. This will release the puck from the retainer. Do not hit the pump to hard or it will knock the puck out of the OEM retainer. Now pull the retainer from the spring sea (tug on the end of it) and you can now slip the retainer off the OEM pump (2nd step). If you look at the picture you can tell that the puck in the retainer is now sitting much higher than it was before you started."
did you reuse the stock retainer and puck?