Just wondering as im starting to get some real power out of my 3 what is the peak atw safe power from the standard intercooler? cuz once iv done the tune its going to be around 200-210+ maybe. is this too much for it??
Just wondering as im starting to get some real power out of my 3 what is the peak atw safe power from the standard intercooler? cuz once iv done the tune its going to be around 200-210+ maybe. is this too much for it??
LUKE, the inter-cooler will eventually be a limitation rather than an item which will suffer in any way from your mod's. It's not going to blow up or catch fire. There will be a limit to how much air it can effectively pass and cool, that's all, and will thus make other mods be more a case of diminishing returns for $$ and effort until you address that limitation. If you're getting good power now, it's likely that any future mod by itself in a related area will improve on it by eliminating whatever limitations it may already be placing on your induction.
Looking at your mod's, it seems you are sucking in air as cold as you can get it for now through your CAI, pushing it out via a bigger turbo and if there is a bottleneck it is going to be either the stock restricted turbo inlet if that was not changed as part of your CAI, and the stock TMIC. A change to either of those will free up your breathing. I don't see an exhaust mod in your list, so sooner or later all that air that you are feeding in is going to want to get out quicker than it is through the stock DP, cats and catback system.
Additionally, BTW, all that extra air needs more fuel and that means more heat, which will further soak your stock TMIC and make its job harder. As you have already removed your air-cleaner and resonator to fit the CAI, you have cleaned up a fair bit of the pathway for the plumbing to an FMIC, and that will eliminate inter-cooler heat soaking, and give you the other benefits that will come with it as a result of cooling all that extra air. Sooner or later, that exhaust will loom as a job to be done. You may consider doing a dump-pipe before an FMIC (a cheaper job) and free up the exhaust flow a bit, and even that will reduce engine bay temps and keep your TMIC a bit happier.
Hope this helps a bit.
Last edited by Doug_MPS6; 14-06-2010 at 07:21 PM.
CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18
i have a TBE custom 3'DP and cat back, cpe intake pipe. i didnt want to go down the path of a tmic/fmic as with the tune i will be hitting some high numbers. i didnt want to spend money i didnt need to or could be put into another part of the car. i was put feelers out to see if the standard tmic would flow/cool enough to allow my mods to hit 210- 220kw mark.
maybe you will be able to get the power your after with stock TMIC,
But im sure itll do it alot easier with a better IC.
Im actually keen for an Ecutek tune myself. But Ive still got the stock IC, and am thinking it might not be worth doing with that still on.
Although i cant really afford to do both.
I have been in contact with MRT and they are going to be at wakefield for the upcoming trackday i won. I will be speaking with them then about this exact topic.
look at the protege garage FMIC kit.. same price as an ETS
Cept ken will take 10 billionty weeks to ship it
So order it now!!
Colder temps certainly cant help, and there are good gains to be made with an aftermarket IC.
If you are after another TMIC have a look at the hyperflow one
I think Cosmic was hitting around the 210 mark with the stock IC, front mount is definitely the way to go, even if it takes 10 billionty weeks to get.
Agreed that FMIC is the way to go performance wise, though if you are concerned about "warranty" or prefer a stealthy install TMIC is a good option as it can be removed in about 40 minutes.
The ETS unit is great!
ETS Top Mount Intercooler for Mazdaspeed 3 / 6 / CX-7 - Revolution Performance Motorsports!
Four weeks since order and intake still hasnt shipped (from PG, not streetunit)......
So, if you want it soon order it from anywhere buy PG... if you dont care about which decade it arrives in then you know where to go
MY16 WRX STi Crystal White Pearl
-= Rally Armour Flaps - 2XS Muffler Delete =-
FG FPV F6 MKII Vixen - SOLD
-= Bluepower SRI - ID1000 Injectors - Venom Cat - XCAL3 - ProcessWest Stg2 Intercooler - 359 RWKW=-
CX9 Grand Touring Stormy Blue
-= The rolling armchair =-
6 MPS Velocity Red - SOLD
-=Cat Back Exhaust - Pirelli PZero=-
3 MPS Aurora Blue - SOLD
-=PG SRI - PG Inlet - ETS TMIC - GFB Hybrid BOV - Best Mufflers DP - Eibach Pro - AccessPort STG2 - Autotech HPFP - ITV22 - Michelin PSS=-
As an observation with the 3.5" ETS TMIC - tapping turned out to be a needlessly big shroud. trimmed 10mm solved that. tapped under tramp conditions even with 75duro cpe mount.
re: performance - I have just a 3.5" ETS TMIC and nothing else yet, really...I've observed 2-3 psi higher in lower gears and one psi higher boost in the higher gears, more torque everywhere, but most in third. I see boost temps on average 2 degrees higher than intake, which is pretty good I think, with very brief non-threatening boost temperature spikes as boost first builds.
As a standalone mod, I've felt more torque all around.
Last edited by Nexus; 16-06-2010 at 07:46 PM.
On "stealthy," I dunno how the MPS3 FMIC installation looks, but you have to look damn hard to see mine, and it is still polished alloy. Paint 'em black and it'd be all but invisible.
I managed 209wkw with an intake exhaust and tune.
225wkw with a different intake and the ETS TMIC.
I would assume the TMIC is responsible for the 16kw not the intake but I could be wrong.
I need to get it retuned and I believe we could make around 230wkw this time at 18psi.
Last edited by Crusher_13; 17-06-2010 at 01:51 PM.
thanks for the input. im after 220kw it will get there or very close woot
It's not the Kw you should be chasing, it's torque. That's what drives the car. More torque = quicker car all round.
until ur clutch fry's lol.....
I fried my clutch so bad on my first run at Jamboree, the car didn't move, I had to back off the throttle till it slowly moved. It stunk for weeks afterwards, but, never slipped again.
I had 480nm and only 203kw ATW, but still manage to run 13.06 down the qtr mile, with the std clutch, 3 runs after I fried it.
Mods were SRI, Twin DP, 3" system, FMIC and tune, all with the std turbo.
Achievements
2009 Jamboree Street Compact Winner
Aust. Quickest and Fastest MPS
12.3 seconds @ 111Mph.
Proven over the Qtr mile
Another Mazda 3 MPS - Almost fully bolted - Waiting for a turbo upgrade - The weekend hack.
Toyota Yaris - Coilovers, rollcage, raceseats, harnesses, 18s - Also waiting for a turbo upgrade.
2011 AWD Territory - White and Slightly lowered on 22s - The tow car.
2011 RWD Territory - Black on black and slammed on 22s - The family transporter.
where can i get a FMIC mod for my MPS 3?
do you have a new one (with bonnet scoop) or an old one?
at the moment there is only things for the first generation:
http://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/2xs-r...t-gen-1-a.html
locally made and supported product... used on his own car too (fastest MPS over 400m )
other options can be found here:
http://www.mpsgarage.com.au/shop/sea...-1--turbo.html
Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings
Corksport FMIC
If your car is a Gen I and if I was you this is the only way to go, FMIC, Inlet and Intake all in one!
WIN!