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Thread: SRI vs CAI

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Newcastle NSW
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    72
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    196

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    Any chance you might be able to post some pics of your airbox mod please? Would love to see them.

    Thanks in advance, and regards,

    Leon

    Quote Originally Posted by 240MPS View Post
    I have neither the boys a Allstar Tuning at Brendale modified my airbox by drilling a big hole on the side and re directed the plastic tube on the otherside and gave me 20kwatw. Best bang for buck

    Pro's and Con's cost me less than $100 for everything and it keeps it looking standard.
    Started out with nothing Still got most of it left

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    North side, Vic
    Age
    37
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    6,745

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    The debate is as old as Ford Vs Holden.. I have had both and notice bugger all difference between the two, though the CAI will get colder air (Just!) however its marginally harder to fit - generally remove passenger wheel and guard lining.

    *Stickied*

  3. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Brackaus View Post
    I've been looking at the same question when I wanted to upgrade from the stock air box. Was very tempted to get the CAI but after reading some post's in America it was only at high speed's (around 150 +) so I decided to get a SRI and I love the sound it makes. If you check the thread about all star dyno day, have a look at my second run at dyno. That's just stock with a SRI.

    For Sizzle
    which one are you on these charts mate? whats ya car reg?
    2006 AB Mazda 3 MPS
    | 2XS SRI | PG TIP | SURE T3 Street REM | Bilstein B8 & King Spring Suspension |
    ********Car is now for sale PM for details********

  4. #24

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    Yeah the debate is very old.
    I had a CES SRI with heat shield, i noticed that the car felt more responsive at low rpms and the induction noise was a lot louder.
    Now i have a Mazdaspeed CAI, not as responsive (maybe because the pipe is slightly longer), sound is quieter, but more responsive at higher rpms.
    I've got a hydroshield wrap over my filter just to prevent water splashes (keyword "splashes") but i don't think water could get to the filter *touch wood* because the mazdaspeed CAI doesn't sit that low. It actually sits above the stock airbox resonator, it sits JUST under the engine bay.

  5. #25

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    Old debate. I'm sure there are a few threads on it. I know I've made a number of comments on it in various threads before. In short I figure CAI's are a waste of time and space, are a headache to service and a water induction worry for those who like to go wading and a dust induction worry for those who want to cross the Simpson. Just my view.

    But a comparative infra-red temp probe on the turbo intakes immediately after a run with both will prove the point pretty well. If one was totally anal about getting coldest possible air to the intake, I'd prefer to feed cold air from the grill area direct to an airbox wrapped around an SRI than mess about with all the extended plumbing on a CAI and put up with the other attendant issues I've referred to.
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    4,540

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    Pfft, filter...what filter?! SRI, CAI or none!

  7. #27

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    Did i miss something andre? is that a response to my comment? if it was i don't get what you're talking about

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    4,540

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    SRI vs CAI debate, use no filter, although not recommended! Wasn't a response to any comment lol

  9. #29

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    Ever seen a dusted engine ROG? ;o)

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    4,540

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    Solved


  11. #31

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    Big enough to ingest the entire sealed road in front of you!! ;o)

  12. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Surrey Hills, Victoria
    Age
    49
    Posts
    5,866

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    Quote Originally Posted by rogwick View Post
    Solved

    VTEC kicked in yo!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Caff Mobile Mk1 - 2010 Aluminum Gen II | 2XS SRI | H&R Lowered Springs | cpe 75 Duro Engine Mount | Whiteline Rear Swaybar | Moog "Problem Solver" Rear Endlinks | 3M Carbon Black Tint | Lakin Custom Plates | Opti-Coat Paint Protection | Paint Correction by Me - SOLD

    Caff Mobile Mk2 - 2008 BMW Z4M Coupe - Sapphire Black Metallic | Stock....for now

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Posts
    4,540

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    I recently learnt what VTEC is Virtually Torqueless Economic Car

    Not sure I would want to brag my VTEC kicked in! Then again, Honda RAM-AIR intake FTW



    A ram-air intake is any intake design which uses the dynamic air pressure created by vehicle motion to increase the static air pressure inside of the intake manifold on an engine, thus allowing a greater massflow through the engine and hence increasing engine power.

    The ram air intake works by reducing the intake air velocity by increasing the cross sectional area of the intake ducting. When gas velocity goes down the dynamic pressure is reduced while the static pressure is increased. The increased static pressure in the plenum chamber has a positive effect on engine power, both because of the pressure itself and the increased air density this higher pressure gives.
    Ram-air systems are used on high performance vehicles, most often on motorcycles and race cars. Ram-air has been a feature on some cars since the late sixties, but fell out of favor in the seventies, and has only recently made a comeback. Modern parachutes use a ram-air system to pressurize a series of cells to provide the aerofoil shape.

    Source: Ram-air intake - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

    With great power comes great fuel consumption...
    M P S
    - 6 - RR | Cobb AP | CAI | TIP | ATP GTX28R | 3.25" TMIC | SS DP | REM | 3" Zorst | SSP Anchors & Countershift | DBA Rotors | K/Springs | Upper & Lower Bracing | Alpine Type S 12" sub MRP-M500 Amp
    | Grille | STi Lip | Shark Fin | 6000K HID | Fog Light Tint | Twin DEFI gauges | Custom Decals & Badges | LED lighting | CF Mirrors & Pillars | Black rims Red callipers

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Warranwood, Victoria
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    35
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    1,546

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    Thats awesome, imagine somehow removing the foglight area on the MPS6 or 3 and just have a Pod sitting there :O

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Perth, WA
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    4,540

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bakis View Post
    Thats awesome, imagine somehow removing the foglight area on the MPS6 or 3 and just have a Pod sitting there :O
    Funny thing is my left fog light glass is smashed. I have the replacement but I should leave it empty and just take the fitting out!

    With great power comes great fuel consumption...
    M P S
    - 6 - RR | Cobb AP | CAI | TIP | ATP GTX28R | 3.25" TMIC | SS DP | REM | 3" Zorst | SSP Anchors & Countershift | DBA Rotors | K/Springs | Upper & Lower Bracing | Alpine Type S 12" sub MRP-M500 Amp
    | Grille | STi Lip | Shark Fin | 6000K HID | Fog Light Tint | Twin DEFI gauges | Custom Decals & Badges | LED lighting | CF Mirrors & Pillars | Black rims Red callipers

  16. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Sydney
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    49
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    1,834

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    Ram air is of no real benefit to a turbocharged engine, aside from the cooler air factor the turbo is a ram device itself.

  17. #37
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Perth, WA
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    4,540

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    Yeah true, I was planning colder air!

  18. #38

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    The mild benefit of "ram-air" lies in ensuring that the air is there on hand for the turbo to utilize effectively. A similar principle though far more positive approach lies in having a supercharger over a turbocharger, as in many diesels, especially two-strokes and often in marine engines where engine compartment venting can be restrictive if not correctly designed, and is often far too hot for best efficiency without adequate venting.

    The obvious converse which serves to prove the point would be, say, a blocked air filter, which denies the design airflow to the turbo.
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

  19. #39

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    Quote Originally Posted by rogwick View Post
    Funny thing is my left fog light glass is smashed. I have the replacement but I should leave it empty and just take the fitting out!
    My latest Mod without the Fog lights does this well!!! Would love to log the I/T As have noticed less heatsoak with both venting!!!
    2006 MAZDA 6 MPS - LIQUID SILVER METALILIC - MILDLY MODDED FOR NOW.............

  20. #40
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Perth, WA
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    4,540

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    Quote Originally Posted by KLEEMO View Post
    My latest Mod without the Fog lights does this well!!! Would love to log the I/T As have noticed less heatsoak with both venting!!!
    Do you have a CAI Kleemo? Yeah you're set-up will allow for a nice flow of cool air.
    FYI - I'm sucking in air 1 degree above ambient temp with my intake

    With great power comes great fuel consumption...
    M P S
    - 6 - RR | Cobb AP | CAI | TIP | ATP GTX28R | 3.25" TMIC | SS DP | REM | 3" Zorst | SSP Anchors & Countershift | DBA Rotors | K/Springs | Upper & Lower Bracing | Alpine Type S 12" sub MRP-M500 Amp
    | Grille | STi Lip | Shark Fin | 6000K HID | Fog Light Tint | Twin DEFI gauges | Custom Decals & Badges | LED lighting | CF Mirrors & Pillars | Black rims Red callipers

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