Advice with mods

[SarcasticOne]

Hi All,

have never gone about modding a car before, and was after a bit of advice as to what to do, how much it will cost etc. I should also state up front that my biggest concern is noise. I dont want anything too drastic that will mean my car is noisy/loud during normal driving conditions (ala, WRX owners/those 90's lancer coupe's, usually driven by a 19yr old with a backwards hat, am sure you all know the people im talking about) i like my car to be rather discreet, and dont want to look/sound like a complete hoon/police target

firstly,
=============engine/power mods=============
so, from what i can tell, the big things are intake, turbo, exhaust & a tune, so i'll divide it up into relevant areas

Intake: my understanding of this is that a SRI will add more noise than a CAI, but the downside to a CAI is hyrdo lock, and call me paranoid, but i dont want to be worried every time i see a puddle on the ground that my car is going to break...

Turbo: this is a serious modification, and way way way down my list, figure i need new intake and exhaust long before i look into swapping my turbo out

Exhaust: I'm thinking this is should be my first modification... but as i stated from the beginning, noise is a big factor for me... so, after reading doc's thread link im thinking something similar to what he has, based on this:

yep.. all fitted..

very happy with the results.. 14" long res fitted past cat, pre muffler... Zero drone.. much less crackle.. (it was never really loud to start with.. but i dont like loud pipes)..

deceleration is nice and quiet now too.. as well as my cold starts being quieter too...

all in all very happy

my big question is it work doing the exhaust without the intake???

Tune: based on this thread, im guessing i should do a tune after exhaust/intake

Engine mount: i've been looking around, but i'm not sure i'll gain much out of this until there is more grunt going through the wheels, much like the noise, am not keen on the vibrations coming through the car and making it shake like a baby with a rattle

=============Tyres=============
ok, im looking at going from the 215 originals to 225, cause based on what was said at the cruise on sunday, they are substantially cheaper to get, as 215/45 is apparently a really weird tyre size

Brand: Pirelli
Model: Nero
Price (fitted/unfitted): $250 ea, I think
Bought from: St George Tyres
Size: 215/45/18
Value /10: 10
Performance /10: 8
Likes: Outstanding all-rounder. Very competent and safe tyre. Probably the quietest tyre I've used in a long time. Never found their limit in the wet, they just wouldn't let go.
Dislikes: No complaints.

im looking at 225/40ZR18 (92Y) compared to the originals which are 215/45R18 (89W) or should i just stick with the 215/40ZR18 89W?
also, with the 225/40's will they fit on stock rims?

Tyre Product page

=============Warrenty=============
i've got about 12 months manufacturers warranty left, can i do any of these without buggering it up? im guessing wheels are about the only thing i can do...

looking forward to any/all responses, thanks in advance!

[Doc]

ok well I have an exhaust without an intake at the moment.. and the car rips.. it feels soo much better than it did modded with the stock exhaust.. now its all stock excluding the exhaust.

I have the best mufflers catted downpipe (get Chris to do the install for you). This netted me the most gains, with little to no increase in noise level out the exhaust.. its just made it sound a little deeper. (This is 100% stainless steel construction, and is extremely well made, with a high quality 100Cpi- very high flowing- cat).

I also had a 3" cat back (also stainless steel) to a 3" sexy magnaflow muffler.. then to the stock 2.5" rear muffler (remember the exhaust gas has cooled significantly by the time it gets to the tailpipe, so no need for 3" to the tail pipe.. it only makes it louder)..

This sounded great for most, and I must admit.. I did enjoy it.. however it was a tad loud for me. Still under the legal limity im pretty sure..

I had Chris weld in a stainless 14" resonator before the magnaflow. Sound is nice and quiet.. not burbly burps.

This catback netted about 30-40% of what the DP did from what my bum tells me. Its given me a little more breathing space in the upper RPMs. As opposed to the DP which gave me a bucked load of Hp and Tq down low..


If you dont want too much noise.. dont get the intake.. just get yourself a K&N panel filter for your stock air box.

And as far as warranty goes, once you(well Chris actually) have gone to the initial trouble of removing the stock DP, if you ever need to swap it back its a much easier job.. MUCH EASIER, as Chris puts everything together with anti seize compound. So its not a huge undertaking to swap things back out in the unlikely event you will need to.

Look into an intercooler upgrade instead of the intake. This will remove the stock intercooler restriction, allow your turbo not to work as hard to achieve the same PSI, and will give you cooler air intake charge. And make no more noise.

Also add a CPE 75 duro mound to you list.. so you can put the power to the ground without the wheels hopping like a bloody rabbit.

Any questions, let me know.. happy to help.

Doc

[mpsgarage]

Your choice of first mod for your car that will not make a noise difference & will give you a good feel.
CP-E Rear Engine Mount, this will make a large difference to how your cars feels on the road.
As for a power mod, by far the best thing you could do, would be a Down pipe. CP-E DP will increase your power by 15 - 20 % with out any extra noise.
CP-E is the only after market product that supplies an Lifetime warranty on their products as well & been sold at Mazda dealer's, you know its approved by Them.
All after market intakes will make a large difference to the intake noise, But using a Inlet pipe with a standard Air Box & an K&N panel will be your best choice.

[rogwick]

I think Doc has pretty much said it mate! Great job Doc.

First of all, I know exactly what you mean about the whole hoon/milo-tin exhaust, hat backwards crowd. I think the MPS or is a more classy performance vehicle aimed at a different market than hoons. I think most of the mods you do will be far better than a simple skyline stock! Because of the name they've given themselves over the years you will most likely get all your troubles in a WRX or skyline IMO.

It's great you want or welcome advice as you may not know 100% what to do. Myself had to start somewhere and I've still got plenty to learn, but let me say the basis of your mods as stated in your post is well on the right track.

One thing to keep in mind, the end result of "power" is the addition of many mods that work together to give you the best or optimal performance of your specific vehicle. Of course one part can make a difference, but they best compliment each other and lots of small (and some big) things will give you the best outcome.

Let me start by putting it this way. Think of your current intake as a straw. It sucks in a limited amount of air due to its design and to keep things nice and quiet, emissions, noise levels, standards etc. Upgrading the intake either with a replacement filter (low noise) CAI or SRI (very noisy) will give you a difference. As I mentioned the 'straw' idea, upgrading the intake will provide a means for accepting more air and thus the intake system can deal with a larger or less restrictive flow. Add in a TIP to assist with a smoother and larger airflow and that's a pretty good start.

An intercooler, be it TMIC or FMIC will enable you to up your boost and is a stealth way to producing more HP. I would look into this after you've decided on a decent intake system.

With the exhaust, different people opinions vary between sound and what they like. On my 6 I've got the CP-E downpipe which flanges onto a 3" mandrel bend exhaust into one resonator, into a second resonator further back, and split into two super-cat mufflers. At idle my car just purrs and you can't hear the exhaust at all. Normal throttle its quieter than most modded cars. Full throttle and it growls. It all depends what you want. Installing a downpipe will give you, as doc said a significant increase in power. Its the exhaust (mufflers) that will give the noise so I would say the DP is a must and the mufflers are optional

An engine mount can be used due to the stock one being quite average. It should enable you to shift easier and smoother through the gears. A useful mod for refining your ride.

A big turbo is an option but you may want to look into how much boost your running at the time of you considering this mod and research into what the stock internals can handle.

A tune is probably one of the last things you would look at getting done and one of the biggest gains you can get. This will ensure you existing mods are complimenting the car the best way possible and everything is re-tuned to these specific modifications.

Tyres are up to you, I've got the stock size on mine, no problems there. But if you require more traction or desire more of a selective range, upgrade to the 225's. Keep in mind if you intend in doing any such mods, compliment them with a decent handling set-up. Have a read of the link below to give you an idea if you like.

http://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/handl...ry-basics.html

To sum it up mate, if your biggest concern is noise, consider resonators (x1 or x2) if you intend getting a new exhaust. Intake will give you more noise but I think you will like it, if not go with a K&N panel filter. If you want costs ideas and unfortunately this is based on my 6MPS or I've guessed the mods $ I don't have (i.e turbo, tune) To give you a very rough idea

*CP-E CAI intake $485 (on special)
*COBB TIP $350
*FMIC $1650
*Engine mount $205
*CP-E downpipe $999 (on special)
*DP install $350-400
*Cat-back exhaust $1000-1200
*Bigger turbo ~$1500-2000
*Tune ~ $2000

Total =

Hope that gives you a rough idea

[SarcasticOne]

Thanks to everyone for your info!!!
it's nice to see people in agreement and giving the same advice (DP, engine mount, standard airbox with K&N air panel)
i do feel the need to state some sceptisism at a 15-20% increase just from putting in a new downpipe... i might look at getting a dyno done before and after just to see the difference... but based on what i can see based on the only picture i could find of a turbo motor (yeah, it's a WRX, shoosh, it gives me the basic idea as to what's happening) and the MPS exhaust diagrams against a CPE downpipe i'm guessing the standard DP isnt anywhere near as free flowing as the CPE one... the diagram seems to suggest it changes shape dramatically over it's length, whilst the CPE one doesnt

ATM, am looking at a downpipe + K&N filter, at least initially... from there, an exhaust, most likely with a resonator in it, and maybe an engine mount as well, and finally a tune (it shouldnt matter if i get a tune before or after engine mount, should it?)
am really on the fence with intercooler, can see the pro's and cons of it... but it doesnt seem worth it until some more has been done to the rest of the engine... and would like some more advice on tyres if anyone can advice, stay stock size? change brands/type from bridgestones?

EDIT: meant to ask... what exactly is the benefit in an engine mount??? what does it do etc?
also, clutch? worth doing? or is the stocker pretty good?

[RedDjinn]

After doing a few mods to my car, if you want quiet but power- DP, Turbo from BNR stage 1 ( this is good cuz all the heat sheilds mount back up looks standard) , intake pipe. all these will look standard even when you open teh bonnet. i was supprised at the turbo power band much better at 4500-6000 and mounted to a 3' DP u not notice the drop off at 5000rpm. and for $1500ish is about the same price as other mods..

---------- Post added at 06:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:40 PM ----------

FORGOT.. TUNING..a must!!

[rogwick]

Fair call to have some scepticism about the downpipe. I can tell you once you look at the standard DP you will see how chunky and restrictive it is. Maybe some fellas have images of the stock DP handy or if you see in person to give you some idea. Personal experience in my 6 after I had the DP installed. Initially not much. The computer has to learn the new air flow readings air/fuel mix/boost levels after I had the DP and cat back exhaust. So for about 100kms or so I took it easy...after that...geez! The spool was about 500RPM ealier and the car was more aggressive right up to redline (didn't drop off the cliff at 5-5,000RPM like stock. You will be able to tell a difference as I'm sure most of the guys on here would agree. Have a look at the CP-E link below and click on the horsepower and torque figures. By all means get a dyno before and after for yourself. It will be interesting to see the change for yourself also a personal time-line to see how you car is going the more you mod it.

MazdaSPEED3 3" Downpipe

MazdaSPEED3 Engine Mount

I don't think it will matter getting a tune after you get the engine mount installed, but I would probably get everything in the car and then get the tune done last. At least you know you won't get it tuned, and then change something on it (even though its only a engine mount...my 2c worth) I stayed away from intercooler. Main reason is cause it looks ugly when fitted! That and I wanted to stop splashing money. I plan on getting another 600cc bike so if I desire speed I'll do it on something that will actually have more kick. The car looks great and has enough mods to make me happy as is now.

For tyres as I mentioned I have the stock size. Specifically I've got the Kumho Ecsta KU21's which came to around $1000 fitted I won't comment too much cause I made a few comments on here (Plus the other guys info makes for a good read)

http://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/handl...tml#post112347

[Jmac]

Should have asked us on the cruise! I could have taken you for a burn

[Doc]

Talk to chris at best mufflers about his downpipe.. It uses the best.. Biggest cat out there.. And it will outflow anything else. His downpipes are 100% tig welded stainless steel. The only way to fly

[SarcasticOne]

Should have asked us on the cruise! I could have taken you for a burn

yeah, realise that now. but didnt cross my mind at the time
also, have never been a passanger in my MPS, so no idea how it feel from that seat
unfortunately cant make it to byron this weekend, and am going overseas 2 days before the xmas in july for 5 weeks (yay!) so will have to ask at the next one i get along to!

[Yeldarb]

I'm about to do exactly what you're thinking if doing. Next Friday a DP is going in, plus a K&N panel filter in stock airbox. I had the car dynoed stock (with stock air filter) and will dyno again afterwoods. Wish I could try an SRI, but no one has in stock.

I'll post the results before and after. As for gains on the DP, you just have to speak to the guys who have them (3 or 4 now), plus check the thread I posted with the photos of the Best Mufflers DP. The cat is almost as fat as a bottle of port!

[SarcasticOne]

I'm about to do exactly what you're thinking if doing. Next Friday a DP is going in, plus a K&N panel filter in stock airbox. I had the car dynoed stock (with stock air filter) and will dyno again afterwoods. Wish I could try an SRI, but no one has in stock.

I'll post the results before and after. As for gains on the DP, you just have to speak to the guys who have them (3 or 4 now), plus check the thread I posted with the photos of the Best Mufflers DP. The cat is almost as fat as a bottle of port!

let me know how it goes, am quite interested, but wont be starting major work on my car until september (holidays!!!)
am interested how long it takes them to do that, how much it costs, and what sort of gains you see, if it's around 20%, i'll be booking mine in pretty quickly =)

if most stock cars seem to be putting out ~140 kwatw gains of 20% are pretty significant (not to mention the torque boost!)

anyone know a decent place to take my car to get a dyno done?
im thinking tunehouse, cause they seem to have gotten good wrap recently on these forums... can anyone give me an approximate cost as to how much it'll cost to get my car hooked up to one of these things and measured?
not really after the tune etc, just want them to do 2-3 runs and work out what ive got to start with, so i can see what happens after each mod i do =)

[Jmac]

We will Have to catch up sometime soon. I'm sure some other members in Sydney would be happy to have a show and tell

[2XS]

Is it a 6 or 3, gen 1or 2?

Most intakes (SRI) make alot more noise than I assume you want. You can drive the car quietly with an SRI and have noise when you want it too. Maybe get an SRI with a fully enclosed box.

A good DP and cat will gain from 15-20kw at the wheels. Bolt it to the stock system and swap the main muffler for a straight through design and you should see another 5kw. 100 cell cats are still illegal as far as I know.

Forget swapping the turbo out for now, just get it hi-flowed (bigger wheels and shaft etc.) later down the track.

Tune the car when you have finished with the power mods, to gain every last drop from it and save you some money.

Swapping the engine mount makes the engine more rigid. This allows more torque to be applied to the ground. Well worth every dollar.

Tyres, I found the biggest improvement was fitting the std 215 tyres to 8" rims. I now run 225/45.

Springs and/or shocks should be on your list. The handling will be improved out of sight and you will hardly compromise the ride quality.

Make the car handle before you make too much power. If you can't get it to the ground, you are just wasting money.

[mpsgarage]

power runs are around the $80 -$100 each depending on the workshop.
We don't have a dyno, But we have a arrangement on a lease dyno.
(Dyno Dynamics).

[Cton]

yeah, realise that now. but didnt cross my mind at the time
also, have never been a passanger in my MPS, so no idea how it feel from that seat
unfortunately cant make it to byron this weekend, and am going overseas 2 days before the xmas in july for 5 weeks (yay!) so will have to ask at the next one i get along to!

Where in sydney are you? My car has the best muffler DP and an SRI/TIP.
Id be more than happy to take you for a spin. Im on the Northern beaches.
Also as far as dyno numbers go, mine made 172 kw. After the mods.....

[TD]

In order

- Intake
- Rear Engine Mount
- Dump Pipe
- Additional exhaust (catback, hi flow cat)
- brake pads (front)
- springs
- shocks (can be combiined with coil overs)
- intercooler
- tune

[SarcasticOne]

Is it a 6 or 3, gen 1or 2?

Most intakes (SRI) make alot more noise than I assume you want. You can drive the car quietly with an SRI and have noise when you want it too. Maybe get an SRI with a fully enclosed box.

A good DP and cat will gain from 15-20kw at the wheels. Bolt it to the stock system and swap the main muffler for a straight through design and you should see another 5kw. 100 cell cats are still illegal as far as I know.

Forget swapping the turbo out for now, just get it hi-flowed (bigger wheels and shaft etc.) later down the track.

Tune the car when you have finished with the power mods, to gain every last drop from it and save you some money.

Swapping the engine mount makes the engine more rigid. This allows more torque to be applied to the ground. Well worth every dollar.

Tyres, I found the biggest improvement was fitting the std 215 tyres to 8" rims. I now run 225/45.

Springs and/or shocks should be on your list. The handling will be improved out of sight and you will hardly compromise the ride quality.

Make the car handle before you make too much power. If you can't get it to the ground, you are just wasting money.

Gen 1 3MPS
am not looking for a 200kw atw car, it has alot of grunt already, just looking to help boost the midrange a bit more, and level out the drop off at the top of rev range
if (as below) a simple intake and DP will get me ~172kw atw, that will probably be enough for me (at least for now...) and yes i understand that modifying the car will drop resale value etc, but i dont want to completely overhall/modify it... like it reasonably stock(ish) so that come time to sell it, it's not going to be a complete pain in the ass...

Where in sydney are you? My car has the best muffler DP and an SRI/TIP.
Id be more than happy to take you for a spin. Im on the Northern beaches.
Also as far as dyno numbers go, mine made 172 kw. After the mods.....

i'm in the inner west, but i'll be up north in 2 weeks time, i might pop in and have a look

[2XS]

With a good DP and intake, you should crack the 180kw ATW mark.

A tune afterwards will increase the power and torque everywhere and even lean it out safely (rich from factory) so the economy will be improved too.

[BM3]

In order

- Intake
- Rear Engine Mount
- Dump Pipe
- Additional exhaust (catback, hi flow cat)
- brake pads (front)
- springs
- shocks (can be combiined with coil overs)
- intercooler
- tune

Intake or more corectly getting in more Dense (colder) and less restrictive air should be at the top of the list as far as order of mod go.