PP, Hi. I have a 2005 model and it has the original clutch which I like. It is nice and direct (not "grabby") but doesn't tolerate fools. In my view, only people nannied by auto's or who never really learned to drive a manual should be expected to have an issue with it initially. I've never stalled inadvertently through clutch-related issues. It does smooth out over time and at 45,000km I feel it almost the same as my 80 Series Landcruiser clutch, which has excellent feel.
Some folks have had diff and engine mount issues but I have had none. I don't know how much power they are feeding in from standstill, and I suspect that is where some of the problem is stemming from. Treat the clutch well, don't dump it on take-off, but roll it in 1st and wait until you have some pace before feeding it the horses in 2nd or 3rd. It isn't a light car and the diff mounts and transmission will thank you for it.
Unless you are on an oily slick surface or driving insanely, you won't get wheel-spin in the MPS6, so don't try. In the wet it just points and goes, regardless of whether the helm is pointed straight ahead or on a turn, it will head where it is pointed. It's not worth playing with the DSC. Leave it engaged unless you are bogged in snow or mud - that's why the switch is there. You can't switch programs. It's either on or off for the reason I just mentioned.
BTW, I looked at BMW's and prefer the build quality of the Mazda. Bimmers trade on the badge. The MPS6 will out-handle an "equivalent" Bimmer any day of the week, is more reliable and costs a fraction of BMW costs to service. Don't believe all the BMW marketing crap about "RWD being better", just so they can position themselves ahead of the mass of FWD cars. Remember when FWD came out it (by Citroen), it was touted as being the best thing to happen to cars? It's even more popular now because it negates the propeller shaft and rear diff and related mounts and drive shafts and hence saves a lot of weight and also allows a flatter floor and more compactness, while transverse engines allow reduced bonnet length and height for reduced weight, shorter car and better airflow, and modern electronics and torque sensing diffs have eliminated most torque steer issues - refer MPS3. AWD is better. And on track days, I get around corners faster than the MPS3 if both cars are stock.
Both cars respond well to bolt-on tweaks, as long as you don't want to go insane with power, which will take more thought and cost. Mine looks totally stock if you don't see the FMIC lurking, well-camouflaged, behind the grill, and is tweaked almost "enough" for me and is more tractable than stock, easily driveable around town in traffic, but goes like a a stung cat when the throttle is goosed and is in danger of running over that which one intends to pass if enough attention isn't paid. I might tighten up the suspension and/or mounts a bit to improve handling but I still view the handling as better than most cars around now, don't spend much time on tracks and I want to retain a pretty smooth ride as I want a good high-performance tourer, which is what the car was designed for, not circuits.
The car responds very well to removing the awful awful awful OEM RE050 Potenza Bridgestone tyres which are noisy on chip surfaces, wear abysmally (I got about 32,000km out of mine, but other report much less, down to about 16,000km!), and tram-line like they were welded to steel tracks set in the road where you don't want them, and are twitchy in the wet. I'll buy my Sumi's again, if they ever wear out, which doesn't look like being anytime soon. I'm sure there are other good alternatives out there too.
Refer also http://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/tech-...nty-fixes.html
Disclaimer: others will have different views from me on some of the above. That's life and personal experience for you!
Last edited by Doug_MPS6; 02-06-2010 at 11:41 AM.
CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18