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Thread: Guard Rolling

  1. Default Guard Rolling

    So I checked my guards today and found that one of them is fairly damaged, the lip is starting to pull out and is going to slice the tyre...

    Does anyone have horror stories about guard rolling they want to share? I have been told that rolling the guards will **** my car (smash repair dude), I have had someone else mention that they will become very weak and could be damaged by just leaning on one it (another smash repair guy). I have been told that the paint might crack.

    What is the real deal in your opinions?

  2. #2

    Default

    You do weaken the structure of the gaurd when you have them rolled.

    The person rolling the gaurd usually uses a heatgun to soften the paint before rolling the gaurds.

    If done sensibly, you can gain space with rolling the gaurds, but not weaken the edge enough to be of any concern.

    I've had it done on my wifes car and I'd do it if I needed to on mine.

    Note: It's not the top edge of the gaurd that really needs to be rolled, it's the front and rear edges (like where the bumper joins the body) and on the opposite side in front of the tyre, which is damaged more frequently.
    Last edited by 2XS; 06-05-2010 at 09:16 PM.
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  3. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 2XS View Post
    Note: It's not the top edge of the gaurd that really needs to be rolled, it's the front and rear edges (like where the bumper joins the body) and on the opposite side in front of the tyre, which is damaged more frequently.
    That is exactly where it is scrubbing! The front edge of the left rear. Can see the damage. Almost feel like getting out a hammer (rubber mallet) to knock it back so my tyre does not get too sliced up.

    I've also sent 5 emails today to different tyre places asking if they can recommend someone!
    Last edited by Crusher_13; 06-05-2010 at 09:47 PM.

  4. Default

    Crusher get them done by Nelson in Sydney, I drove up there to get mine done and a heap of people on the forum have used him, hes fantsastic. Sydney Guard Rolling

    No paint cracking or doginess from him whatsoever

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Crusher_13 View Post
    That is exactly where it is scrubbing! The front edge of the left rear. Can see the damage. Almost feel like getting out a hammer (rubber mallet) to knock it back so my tyre does not get too sliced up.

    I've also sent 5 emails today to different tyre places asking if they can recommend someone!
    If you do attempt to fix the issue yourself, for the short term, make sure you heat the area with a heatgun, hot enough to burn your hand, but not too hot to melt the paint, before you try hitting the lip back into place, otherwise the paint will crack and then you'll need paint repair too.
    Achievements
    2009 Jamboree Street Compact Winner
    Aust. Quickest and Fastest MPS
    12.3 seconds @ 111Mph.
    Proven over the Qtr mile

    Another Mazda 3 MPS - Almost fully bolted - Waiting for a turbo upgrade - The weekend hack.
    Toyota Yaris - Coilovers, rollcage, raceseats, harnesses, 18s - Also waiting for a turbo upgrade.
    2011 AWD Territory - White and Slightly lowered on 22s - The tow car.
    2011 RWD Territory - Black on black and slammed on 22s - The family transporter.

  6. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 2XS View Post
    If you do attempt to fix the issue yourself, for the short term, make sure you heat the area with a heatgun, hot enough to burn your hand, but not too hot to melt the paint, before you try hitting the lip back into place, otherwise the paint will crack and then you'll need paint repair too.
    Currently its not an issue as I can get a lift to work then either walk home or get picked up after. So the mallet option will not be used.

    I'm not to worried about paint chipping. That has got to costless to be repaired than new tyres every 3 months! Or 4 new tyres of a smaller size this month!

    Crusher get them done by Nelson in Sydney, I drove up there to get mine done and a heap of people on the forum have used him, hes fantsastic. Sydney Guard Rolling

    No paint cracking or doginess from him whatsoever
    I've been in contact with him. I was going to book in to get it done next Sunday the 16th but I don't think I should be driving up to Sydney with the lip as damaged as it is. A blow out at 110kph will not be fun!

    I've found one place in Canberra that does it. So I will be on the phone with them again today and have heard of another place that does it.

  7. Default

    Do you have stock rims and tyres you can put on for the drive up, that way there is no risk of further damage

  8. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by blackbetty View Post
    Do you have stock rims and tyres you can put on for the drive up, that way there is no risk of further damage
    Stock rims sold!

    Stock tryes just taken off! I could get my car raised up as much as possible on my coils for the drive up then back down but thats an extra $220 there is someone in town that does it and was recommended to me by my suspension place so...

  9. Default

    OK well its good you found someone local then

  10. Default

    Guards were rolled yesterday. The paint cracked a little but you can not see it and I am not to worried about that.

    They are still scrubbing though! Not sure if it is just the mud guard or other.

    So, she is going to my suspension place to get the suspension checked and then raised up 10mm... If that does not solve it there will be some Kumho KU36's 225/45/18 for sale on Enkei RPO3's 18x 7.5 +48!

    Or maybe just the wheels... I'm sure a higher offset will solve the issue!
    Last edited by Crusher_13; 11-05-2010 at 10:56 AM.

  11. Default

    You shouldnt get scrubbing with that rim/tyre size and offset especially afterhaving the guards rolled, how low is your car ? Did they fold the inside lip right back on itself when they rolled them so nothing sticks out against the edge of the tyre ?

  12. Default

    Yup, it is all rolled back.

    Its fairly low.

    85mm from the top of the rim to bottom of guard at the back and 87mm at the front.

    ---------- Post added at 12:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:06 PM ----------

    I've just sent out emails to every H&R suspension place in Australia chasing some camber bolts.

    An increase in negative camber will give me more clearance...

  13. #13
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    Default

    Yes, the Kumho KU36 on 18x7.5+48 Rub. I have the same with the RPF1. just just touching so a good gaurd roll should sort it out, but I've heard there's a mudguard or plastic bit that they _just_ touch also. I had Sumitomo HTRZ-III for awhile in that same size on same wheels and never noticed a contact, so I think the 225/45R18XL Kumho spec means they're a bit wider than most 225. Xtra Large ??

    I'm at stock height intending to lower 13mm / 0.5" at some point...

  14. Default

    Nexus, any chance you can measure from the top of your wheel to the bottom of the guard for me?

    Just want to know how low I am.

    And I think it is the mud guard that is rubbing. Could get it notched, could change camber. Will probably just raise the beast a little!

  15. #15

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    I have 84mm front and 89mm rear with 18x8 +50 and no gaurd rolling and no scrubbing. I also think I have only neg 1 deg of camber too.

    Do you have adjustable height?

    What spring rate do you have? It may be soft springs. I have 4.7kg/mm in the rear (they are reasonably soft)

    For next time: The general rule of height measurement is from hub to gaurd : i.e. centre of wheel hub to bottom edge of gaurd. This way any changes in rim sizes won't be affected from car to car.
    Achievements
    2009 Jamboree Street Compact Winner
    Aust. Quickest and Fastest MPS
    12.3 seconds @ 111Mph.
    Proven over the Qtr mile

    Another Mazda 3 MPS - Almost fully bolted - Waiting for a turbo upgrade - The weekend hack.
    Toyota Yaris - Coilovers, rollcage, raceseats, harnesses, 18s - Also waiting for a turbo upgrade.
    2011 AWD Territory - White and Slightly lowered on 22s - The tow car.
    2011 RWD Territory - Black on black and slammed on 22s - The family transporter.

  16. Default

    Maybe they are just wider than they should be. Really wide tyres or something.

    I cant figure it out. I am hoping the suspension place can solve it for me.

    Sidewall construction is also relatively soft, which takes the unnecessary handling edginess or harshness out of a street tire... The rounded shoulder profile is a good match for the compliant sidewalls as it maintains a consistent contact patch (consistent lateral grip characteristics) when the car rolls hard into a turn.
    I read this as saying the side wall is soft and due to its design the tyre distorts to keep as much tread on the road as possible. This would mean that while cornering the outside of the tyre would be more likely to bulge. Yes or No?

  17. #17
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Crusher_13 View Post
    I read this as saying the side wall is soft and due to its design the tyre distorts to keep as much tread on the road as possible. This would mean that while cornering the outside of the tyre would be more likely to bulge. Yes or No?
    Absolutely. The first time mine rubbed the gaurd it was definately sidewall distorting, bumping a rock just after the apex of a corner with a rear tyre. Tyre distorted contacted and I heard it.
    Previously I hadn't been able to make it do that, so I hadn't expected to be planning to roll gaurds.

    I do think they are extra large and there is sidewall flex too. Rub at heavy suspension travel is what might include the mud gaurd...

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    CONFIRMED. Top inside edge of the rear mudgaurds.
    Doesn't need a full gaurd roll, just push it back a little on the front edge of the gaurd directly opposite the mudgaurd; it's only just touching there. Then shave a few mm off the mudgaurd - you can see where it rubs; tiny patch, inside top corner. Shave that away and no more rub.

  19. Default

    Can that mud guard be removed?

    Does it cover anything? What did you use to file / shave / sand it down?

  20. #20
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    You could remove it. I haven't done anything about it yet. It's the first time I've been able to see an actual mark. I've been looking every now and then for ages presuming that eventually I'll see something. This time I did. It almost never happens for me. I'd use perhaps a dremel and just excavate the plastic in the top corner. There's enough of it to take away the bit that's touching. There's not much in it. I presume it's more of a problem for you coz it's lowered. need a pic? If yours hasn't been doing it long then the mark might not be visible yet.

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