In order for big powe to be achieved safely, would i have to replace jsut the conrods?and obv the turbo?How much for new conrods?Thansk
In order for big powe to be achieved safely, would i have to replace jsut the conrods?and obv the turbo?How much for new conrods?Thansk
Pistons too while your in there
check out mpsgarage.com.au
Research that Ive done points to forged pistons not being a great idea for a DD.
Example A
An example of the dramatic expansion of forged pistons is the piston skirt clearances in the cylinder. A typical forged piston has a skirt clearance of approximately .0007 to .0009. A cast piston has a skirt clearance of .005 to .007. The forged piston has 10 times more slop in the cylinder. This results in less ring stability against the cylinderical wall, more piston noise and extra blowby.
There are more issues that are once again negative for the DD. I believe at the boost levels 99% of us will see whilst still having up to 400hp the pistons may not be necessary.
08 VW GTI PIRELLI DSG - 1 OF 400
S3 HEART WITH 229 kw OF APR GOODNESS
SOLD - 06 MPS3 / CPE CAI / CPE HKS BOV / CPE HV2 BELLMOUTH DUMP & METALLIC CAT / CPE MOUNT / COBB SUSPENSION / DBA SLOTTED ROTORS C/W HAWKS PADS
Build it
Race it
Break it
Fix it
Back to start.
there is only one con rod that will work with the stock pistons.. I just cant remember the brand.. if your going to push the power.. change the pistons..
I have Peuter conrods and CPE pistons in my 3MPS. Goes like the clappers! Refer MPS Garage.
I've mentioned this before but it won't hurt to repeat it - everyone wants bolt-on power and then may consider the step to built-in power with internal mods.
But strangely in this forum, I never hear of anyone blueprinting and balancing. I may have missed it. If the engine is going to be in bits when you do the internals, for God's sake, take these extra steps while you are there. The engine will rev smoother and sound sweeter, and more importantly it may not fly apart near the limit.
A long while back, I bored out and rebuilt a Holden HP Series red motor to 192c.i. with a new cam shaft (for low down torque), metal timing gears (original are fibre), heavy duty LandRover clutch, increased oil feeds, bigger valves, extractors, bigger radiator, etc., and installed it in my old Series 2 LandRover when I was working in the desert. I blueprinted and balanced the lot, including the clutch. It revved like there was no tomorrow, smoother than a BMW 3 litre 6, and despite being on the limit for sustained periods up big sand dunes with heavy loads in extreme temperatures, sometimes over 50C, never looked like coming apart. Seven bearing crank helps. What a brilliant engine - one of the best industrial engines made, I reckon.
Last edited by Doug_MPS6; 02-05-2010 at 11:51 AM.
CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18
08 VW GTI PIRELLI DSG - 1 OF 400
S3 HEART WITH 229 kw OF APR GOODNESS
SOLD - 06 MPS3 / CPE CAI / CPE HKS BOV / CPE HV2 BELLMOUTH DUMP & METALLIC CAT / CPE MOUNT / COBB SUSPENSION / DBA SLOTTED ROTORS C/W HAWKS PADS
Protege Garage - K1 Technologies Forged Rods - Mazdaspeed 2.3 DISI
from memory these are the only way to reuse the stock piston