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Thread: How To: Secondary battery and voltage stabilizer

  1. #1
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    Default How To: Secondary battery and voltage stabilizer

    Returning to some projects that've been on the backburner for too long, though I'd document the uninterruptible 12V power I'm installing for the benefit of electronics, communications and voltage stabilizing.

    The components are

    D250S battery isolator - this charges (and powers) a secondary battery (and circuit) when the primary battery and circuit show a full-charge voltage under charging conditions. It does not allow the primary circuit to draw power from the secondary battery (i.e. starting crank). In order to do this, for instance as an emergency jump battery, bypass switches are needed. It does not load the primary circuit unless the alternator is running and primary battery fully charged

    One or Two 12V sealed maintenance free automotive batteries. 18Ah as pictured.

    Cabling of course - 100A copper

    Boot under-floor mounting solution images attached. The OEM rear floor support is removed to be replaced with the mounting solution. The support structure leaves room for two batteries on the left and right, with the center space being for the isolator. In the last image you can see carpet underlay cut to size in order to raise the floor. Carpet underlay is also underneath the mounting solution to provide cushioning. Without the mazda OEM plastic boot-floor insert, the raised floor has the appearance of larger gaps on the left and right. With the OEM boot-floor insert, the only indication that the floor is not in stock position is more difficult access to the cargo hooks.

    More as I progress...
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    Last edited by Nexus; 01-04-2010 at 02:12 AM.
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Michelin PS5 - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - Corksport turbo manifold - HT 98 octane tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - Bespoke Raspberry Pi Android based GPS/Carplay and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold.

  2. #2
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    Default Components Installed

    The following shows the components as a completed install. Still prototype - I wouldn't use a wood crosspiece in a production run, would be manufactured out of nylon sheet and block or injection moulded if practical.

    This is a maximal capacity solution (read maximum cost). The cost (and capacity) can be massively reduced by utilizing a simple relay based battery isolator, and a low capacity 12V UPS solution. Difference in run time with the ignition off very significant. Such a lightweight solution might give 30min to 1Hr for computer + screen only without audio. Such a solution utilizes much smaller generic UPS batteries.

    The CTEK isolator is an intelligent microprocessor controlled unit. With keys removed from vehicle, this solution provides capacity to have lighter sockets always on for non-stop charging of phone etc, use of audio/visual, computer and 802.11g WIFI internet hotspot via 3G with a VPN solution to my studio (or your office for example) for lengthy timeframes. Have not yet tested exactly how many hours can be expected at full load. Hence no second battery yet; may not be needed for desired timeframes.

    1 : 40Amp fusable link at main battery. Cable runs to cabin and then down passenger side cable gutter. Primary 12V and ground, plus a Secondary 12V that runs from the boot to the cabin underneath glovebox. 20A fusable links on each secondary supply battery.
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    2. Wiring for CTEK battery isolator - in from cabin, out to battery(s) + Secondary 12V back to cabin
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    3. Install boot trim. Everything neatly hidden. Battery #2 not installed but leads taped down and fusable link open circuit (fuse removed and replaced with insulator). Adding second battery requires a further two leads tying +ve and -ve of #1 and #2 batteries together with shortest practical link. This is required to ensure the CTEK charger treats them as a single larger battery by minimizing resistance between the batteries.
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    Use as emergency crank solution would require changes added : Normally open 70A breaker in main battery box bypassing the 40A fusable link, and a normally open 70A breaker bypassing both the secondary batteries 20A fusable links and the battery isolator, tying the secondary batteries in paralell with the primary.

    Emergency crank procedure : Switch the 70A breakers to on, start engine, switch them back off. This could also be utilised to carefully replace the main battery without resetting the ECU and losing your leaned fuel trims etc, as the secondary batteries power the ECU while the main battery is replaced.
    Last edited by Nexus; 28-10-2010 at 12:51 PM.
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Michelin PS5 - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - Corksport turbo manifold - HT 98 octane tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - Bespoke Raspberry Pi Android based GPS/Carplay and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold.

  3. #3
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    Default

    Don't you need to have a solid wall between the cabin and any battery? Legality of this?

  4. #4
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tricache View Post
    Don't you need to have a solid wall between the cabin and any battery? Legality of this?
    I'll look into that.
    Not that I've been made aware of by installation professionals who install similar camping oriented solutions on a daily basis for 4WD clients.
    I have done a fair bit of homework and discussion with various installers along the way, so I'll be disappointed if there's a problem there.
    Auto electrician did the cable run for me when I had the alarm soldered up.

    Should I not utilise any device with a battery anywhere in the cabin or cargo? It's not a relocated battery, and not utilised for cranking - these are sealed maintenance free deep cycle batteries - very hardy, I was of the understanding that they just need to be secured appropriately. No gassing from it etc. If it was a gassing maintained battery liable to leak acid, then I would expect a need to place the battery somewhere where it vents outside the cabin, and you should definately not place one of them in the cargo area.

    Again; not a relocation of the main battery which is where these concerns are more applicable. Another thing with cranking batteries is generally there's no fusable link close to the battery, so they're a fire risk in the event of a short developing. The fusable links are right on top of the battery terminals to protect against that. Fused at 40A and 20A, they'll blow quickly in that case.

    I haven't found anything in the QLD light vehicle modification guidebook against it (yet). I've read anecdotally that it's fine in VIC for battery relocation as long as it's sealed maintenance free and not mounted somewhere inappropriate such as under the drivers seat.
    Last edited by Nexus; 28-10-2010 at 12:29 PM.
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Michelin PS5 - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - Corksport turbo manifold - HT 98 octane tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - Bespoke Raspberry Pi Android based GPS/Carplay and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold.

  5. #5
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    Default

    Yeah I think it might be for just normal batterys, not sealed/gel ones.

  6. #6

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    i think its cause of the hydrogen gas that gets generated in lead acid batteries, which needs venting rather than the risk of the acid spilling

    what are the benefits of all this? lot of extra weight...

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by lup15 View Post
    i think its cause of the hydrogen gas that gets generated in lead acid batteries, which needs venting rather than the risk of the acid spilling
    what are the benefits of all this? lot of extra weight...
    Performance wise...none. The batteries are about 5Kg each, i think. Weight of copper (heavy enough gauge to support emergency crank) and isolator would be another 1-2Kg?? I didn't weigh it so I'm not sure. I saved 10Kg of unsprung weight fitting enkei wheels - I don't think I've put all that back on yet. A second battery would.

    Benefit is providing a stable 12V supply for whatever you want, for practical use timeframes - hours. Has camping use as a benefit; but for me will power electronics for as long as I need it to.

    It powers a car-pc based GPS / Instrumentation via OBD / Media centre / mobile dataserver / wireless hotspot.
    Hardware wise that's a 7" xenarc touchscreen in mazda OEM dashtop enclosure, an Atom 330 microATX mainboard, 2Gb DDR2, 128Gb Corsair SSD - very low power, very high speed, best of all no moving parts to vibrate and break, about 4 USB devices, a 3G router/modem/access point. CB radio down the track.

    Coolest software feature is able to do rolling dyno runs that come up pretty accurate utilising the weight of vehicle, accelleration, friction coefficients (rolling resistance and aerodynamics) etc etc, even accounts for weight of fuel in the tank or co-drivers weight.

    Travel anywhere and have network communications + media + local data server synchronization within 802.11g range of the vehicle. For hours. Charge phone and other devices while vehicle locked. Motion detection security video recording when locked, eventually an automated blind spot camera display, Travel and camping related benefits - everything from cooking to fridge etc. Basically use stuff without the ignition on. Lots of it. Without ever draining your main battery. GPS track the vehicle online. Spectate via a cam in the vehicle. Broadcast your next track meet live .

    Smallest implementation would fit entirely under passenger seat, far smaller batteries and stop power windows from inflicting 12V brownouts upon additional electronics, short runtime with ignition off and cost maybe $300. Solution like this is ~$800. Add $100+ for a second battery.

    Intended to be a technology showcase. I'll need to be doing a heap of cleaning before doing any showcasing, looking at my main battery.

    There's another thing to add: electronic corrosion inhibition. A solar battery charger used normally should charge both the main and secondary batteries.
    Last edited by Nexus; 30-10-2010 at 01:25 AM.
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Michelin PS5 - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - Corksport turbo manifold - HT 98 octane tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - Bespoke Raspberry Pi Android based GPS/Carplay and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold.

  8. #8
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tricache View Post
    ... Legality of this?
    Looks positive. Short awnser - this is prototype and another DIYer should consider this is development example.
    Other things to consider are

    - a further housing around each battery.
    - closing off the rear of the mounting solution.
    - A custom mounting brace that fits underneath the spacewaster plastic riser under the spacesaver tyre; anchoring the assembly
    - Material characteristics. Ultimately I would expect any production to use much the same plastic types the original floor support did, battery housing needs met. That wood crossbrace should go. A sealed vent to exterior circulation solution is easily possible with hose and fitting, but obviously more changes to install.
    - Battery type. Sealed Maintenance free batteries a must.

    Smaller solution can and will mount underseat. It will be a final fallback in this solution, however if you can restrict yourself to a ~9 amp load it will do everything you need for a short while in terms of emergency power (radio, comms).

    Add sockets at rear bumper for camping use, solar chargers, etc. The benefits are really for uber roadtrip travel.

    It works. Heavy electronics load saw ~ 5Hrs use after which the computer was still functional but voltage drop was enough the screen starts to have trouble. Took 200 meters or so travel to recharge sufficiently for systems to restart. A second battery would be necessary for good camping power headroom.
    Last edited by Nexus; 03-11-2010 at 01:24 AM.
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Michelin PS5 - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - Corksport turbo manifold - HT 98 octane tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - Bespoke Raspberry Pi Android based GPS/Carplay and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold.

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