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Thread: Mazda 6 MPS differential mounts

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    566

    Default

    I went to get a new bolt for one of mine (it was cross threaded to hell from factory, thanks mazda...) and mazda informed me they no longer supplied that part and couldn't get it (I have hit this problem with the rubber boots for the struts too), so I helicoiled and re-threaded the old bolts. It worked, but it was not my preferred solution...

  2. Default

    Hi, finally getting around to putting on the whiteline rear sway bar. I figure it will mean dropping the diff, so replace the diff mount whilst the opportunity make it an easy job.

    Looking for feedback, positive or negative on the CPE v's Corksport. From what I have read CPE is steel & Corksport is aluminium. I think CPE is a 60 rating & corksport 80 duro.
    Any issues with noise vibration increasing?

    It looks like a straight replacement, no pressing in/out of bushes? Anybody been able to break either of these? FWIW I'm leaning to the CPE despite being heavier as I think the weight difference is not a deal breaker..I just got to lose my fat guts and its all square again

    Reuse the old bolts? Some have been replacing them.

    Any other issues or info appreciated.

    Thanks

  3. #23

    Default

    Tips for the job

    1. It may look easier to remove the mounts without dropping the subframe. It isn't. It's much much more of a headache if you try it that way, so I would 100% drop the rear subframe to do it.
    2. Replace the front diff mounts two driver side bolts with higher rated bolts because they very commonly shear off.

    That is all

  4. #24

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rayd View Post
    1. It may look easier to remove the mounts without dropping the subframe. It isn't. It's much much more of a headache if you try it that way, so I would 100% drop the rear subframe to do it.
    This should be said for most MPS6 jobs.

    Learn how to take out your subframes... They only take like 30mins each once you have it down pat, and makes it much easier to work on, and reduces your chances of bending/breaking shit trying to fit it in
    MPS6

  5. #25

    Default

    +1 for dropping subframe.
    I installed all my diff mounts without dropping and it was a f*n nightmare.
    Please, drop the subframe lol

  6. Default

    Thanks for the heads up.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Mid Nth Coast NSW
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Hi,
    Just my 2 cents.

    I have had a CP-e diff mount fitted since March 2011. I have had a Sure Juggernaught to the front of the diff as well.

    For ages I've had an annoying rear suspension rattle/clunks. Thought it might have been shocks or loose mounts. It has been getting worse, accompanied with
    what seems like axle tramp. I also had a hard thump from the suspension when going in & out driveways.

    Finally bit the bullet & removed the entire rear sub frame, after removing the tailshaft. Oh what do I find......?

    A torn front CV joint boot & a shagged rear uni-joint. The uni-joint un-repairable. Get a quote from a driveshaft joint locally, $1250 to fix. (cutting replacing shaft, installing replaceable uni-joints, new boot balance etc) A Genuine one, about $1300.

    A used one from Brissy, $330 delivered, bargain.

    I take a look at the diff mounts & I see this....


    Click image for larger version. 

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    Then I notice that the bushes are held in with roll pins.....hmmmmm. The penny drops. Torn bushes, roll pins opposite the bolt sleeves....rattles explained, a pic of the dent/burr of the roll pin banging on the bush sleeve.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    So I contact CP-e. They request pic's & an invoice proving purchase. (They advertise 'lifetime warranty') Send them the info, get a reply...."I sent these to the warranty department and I'll let you know what they say once they get back to me. It looks like it could still be cosmetic, but since the center section is pulling away, it might be covered."

    They then asked me to send the mount back requesting it be warranted. To the US....

    Hmmmm, there must be a better solution. Just replacing the CP-e with another suspect CP-e mount doesn't really do it for me.

    So..........

    My solution.

    Nolathane the sucker.

    I removed the CP-e bushes.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Which explained the use of the roll pins. A thin metal sheath around the bush material. Most bushes I've seen have a solid steel surround that requires a hydraulic press to fit them.

    I then knock up a mandrel & chuck the bush sleeves in my metal lathe. I cleaned up the OD surface removing the CP-e bush material.

    I purchased a 75mm x 300mm solid bar of Nolathane 85 duro urethane from Repco, arrived overnight, wow!!! I expected a week.

    JFT I had to modify my lathe to accept the 75mm bar. The steady rest was too narrow, FFS.

    Measured the CP-e mount & turned a 4 piece set of bushes using the original bush sleeves.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Problem solved, I believe permanently. Warranty, I guess now void. BUT, I don't have to pay for postage to the US, wait for CP-e to look at the mount, decide whether it is 'cosmetic' & then send me a replacement mount (over Xmas & the New Year), manufactured just the same as the one that failed.

    A satisfying endeavour nutting out a solution to a failure, & then making the items myself to fix the issue.

    Last edited by Sky; 17-12-2013 at 06:36 PM.

  8. #28

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sky View Post
    Hi,
    Just my 2 cents.

    I have had a CP-e diff mount fitted since March 2011. I have had a Sure Juggernaught to the front of the diff as well.

    For ages I've had an annoying rear suspension rattle/clunks. Thought it might have been shocks or loose mounts. It has been getting worse, accompanied with
    what seems like axle tramp. I also had a hard thump from the suspension when going in & out driveways.

    Finally bit the bullet & removed the entire rear sub frame, after removing the tailshaft. Oh what do I find......?

    A torn front CV joint boot & a shagged rear uni-joint. The uni-joint un-repairable. Get a quote from a driveshaft joint locally, $1250 to fix. (cutting replacing shaft, installing replaceable uni-joints, new boot balance etc) A Genuine one, about $1300.

    A used one from Brissy, $330 delivered, bargain.

    I take a look at the diff mounts & I see this....


    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC06603.JPG 
Views:	379 
Size:	111.4 KB 
ID:	15571Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC06604.JPG 
Views:	372 
Size:	107.3 KB 
ID:	15572Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC06605.JPG 
Views:	429 
Size:	112.8 KB 
ID:	15573Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC06607.JPG 
Views:	336 
Size:	110.3 KB 
ID:	15574

    Then I notice that the bushes are held in with roll pins.....hmmmmm. The penny drops. Torn bushes, roll pins opposite the bolt sleeves....rattles explained, a pic of the dent/burr of the roll pin banging on the bush sleeve.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC06621.JPG 
Views:	352 
Size:	97.0 KB 
ID:	15575

    So I contact CP-e. They request pic's & an invoice proving purchase. (They advertise 'lifetime warranty') Send them the info, get a reply...."I sent these to the warranty department and I'll let you know what they say once they get back to me. It looks like it could still be cosmetic, but since the center section is pulling away, it might be covered."

    They then asked me to send the mount back requesting it be warranted. To the US....

    Hmmmm, there must be a better solution. Just replacing the CP-e with another suspect CP-e mount doesn't really do it for me.

    So..........

    My solution.

    Nolathane the sucker.

    I removed the CP-e bushes.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC06611.JPG 
Views:	420 
Size:	118.5 KB 
ID:	15576

    Which explained the use of the roll pins. A thin metal sheath around the bush material. Most bushes I've seen have a solid steel surround that requires a hydraulic press to fit them.

    I then knock up a mandrel & chuck the bush sleeves in my metal lathe. I cleaned up the OD surface removing the CP-e bush material.

    I purchased a 75mm x 300mm solid bar of Nolathane 85 duro urethane from Repco, arrived overnight, wow!!! I expected a week.

    JFT I had to modify my lathe to accept the 75mm bar. The steady rest was too narrow, FFS.

    Measured the CP-e mount & turned a 4 piece set of bushes using the original bush sleeves.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC06622.JPG 
Views:	442 
Size:	102.1 KB 
ID:	15577

    Problem solved, I believe permanently. Warranty, I guess now void. BUT, I don't have to pay for postage to the US, wait for CP-e to look at the mount, decide whether it is 'cosmetic' & then send me a replacement mount (over Xmas & the New Year), manufactured just the same as the one that failed.

    A satisfying endeavour nutting out a solution to a failure, & then making the items myself to fix the issue.


    Amazing job you did mate!

    i have had similar problems with CPe before.
    There injector seals failed on me and they did the exact same run around to me. in the end i said screw this and bought a set of PTP seals off a member on here.

    lesson learnt, lifetime warranty does not exist.

  9. #29

    Default

    Wow that's worrying considering CPE was the choice for the rear mount now I need to keep an eye on mine. Disappointed

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

  10. #30

    Default

    Hmmm I just got a cp-e rear diff mount...this is not looking good...

    Sent from my 920 using Tapatalk

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Mid Nth Coast NSW
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Don't get me wrong. I think the actual mount design is the best of the bunch, albeit heavy solid steel, nicely welded. The others are ally, bolted & slotted. Always a possible interlude to problems with the twisting & torque of our AWD design.

    I'm really happy with my mods, I think it combines the best of all the diff mount designs. Once I modded my lathe, figured out & hand ground the HSS tooling (Nolathane's machining guide was not any help. A gooooogle search got me to a site where I found a tooling design which worked a treat) the rest was easy.

    When I was drilling out the Nolathane the finish wasn't smooth, which I think was a bonus as I was able to lube the surface between the metal sleeve to stop wear.

  12. Default

    Thanks so much for bringing that info to the forum. I assume the CPE was brand new when fitted so you got around what 2 years with the original bushes?? Is that right?

    Might be money well spent doing this before fitting.

    Did you notice any NVH increase with the the 85 duro? or would you not know?

    Thanks in advance.

  13. Default

    So is there anything wrong with using the Turbine Tech diff mount bushes, has anyone tried this option?

  14. Default

    Do you have to replace the front diff mount? Does it make much difference if you do not change the front but do change the rear mount?

    and does anyone have a some tips on dropping the sub frame?

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    1,413

    Default

    You don't need to.

  16. Default

    Perfect thank you

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