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Thread: MPS6 engine hesitation

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Central Coast, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by dazza View Post
    There are a few ways you can boost leak test, I did mine straight from the end of my intake (3") as this pressurizes and tests the maf etc pre-turbo, the most common way is to attach the boost leak tester directly to the turbo, I think its 2.25" or thereabouts, google will help there.
    If you do it at the intake you can test the bov/maf, out of 2 stock bpvs ive tested both were leaking quite considerably (doubt this is your problem but any leaks are bad, boost or vacuum). You also need to block the hose going to the crankcase as to not pressurize this. If testing bpv, you will also block the recirculation hose (the bigger hose attached to bpv) and plug it off.
    Cheers for that. I made a boost leak tester for my old car using the same method but thought there might be an easier way. I'll give it a go!

    I really appreciate your comments, everyone here is very helpful!

  2. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DannersAU View Post
    I haven't done a boost leak test. Is there a particular method you'd recommend??

    re the boost control solenoid, is this the same as the part replaced by getting a grimspeed, or seperate? I was thinking of upgrading this.
    As Dazza has said it may not be the issue however it may point you towards a faulty bit of hardware or loose hose. I was thinking you may be overboosting if you had a faulty EBCS. If your's hasn't been touched it's probably not gonna be a problem but they are fragile and crack when removing hoses from them as they are cheap plastic parts. When I found mine cracked I bought the Grimspeed as it wasn't too much more then OEM for a far better quality part. I only run two port at the moment and from what I've seen they can be a little bit fiddly to tune in 3-Port.
    2007 MPS3

  3. #43
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    Apr 2013
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by newmaz View Post
    As Dazza has said it may not be the issue however it may point you towards a faulty bit of hardware or loose hose. I was thinking you may be overboosting if you had a faulty EBCS. If your's hasn't been touched it's probably not gonna be a problem but they are fragile and crack when removing hoses from them as they are cheap plastic parts. When I found mine cracked I bought the Grimspeed as it wasn't too much more then OEM for a far better quality part. I only run two port at the moment and from what I've seen they can be a little bit fiddly to tune in 3-Port.
    Awesome, i'll grab one then from Edge as i'm getting the AP at the same time.

  4. Default

    Hey guys, I've come to join the party that I didn't want an invite to.

    I have had stutter in my mps6 for quite a while now and haven't been able to fix it. My stutter occurs under any amount of throttle load typically around 3k revs. Most common in gears 4 5 and 6.

    I tried the coil stretching to no avail. I haven't replied the plugs yet and was looking at doing that soon.

    I recently purchased an access port and initial readings show a significant drop in fuel pressure when I get stutters; in some cases only a few hundred psi under load. Boost pressure seems normal and doesn't appear to dip when the car stutters.

    I tried a new map with the access port but it hasn't seemed to help.

    Just like to see what you all this my next course of action should be. Thanks guys.

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
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    Canberra
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  6. #46
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    Jun 2009
    Location
    Newcastle
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    What year model 6? I may have following questions lol

  7. #47

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    Post up a log mate , maybe we can help

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
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    56

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    Quote Originally Posted by pural001 View Post
    Hey guys, I've come to join the party that I didn't want an invite to.

    I have had stutter in my mps6 for quite a while now and haven't been able to fix it. My stutter occurs under any amount of throttle load typically around 3k revs. Most common in gears 4 5 and 6.

    I tried the coil stretching to no avail. I haven't replied the plugs yet and was looking at doing that soon.

    I recently purchased an access port and initial readings show a significant drop in fuel pressure when I get stutters; in some cases only a few hundred psi under load. Boost pressure seems normal and doesn't appear to dip when the car stutters.

    I tried a new map with the access port but it hasn't seemed to help.

    Just like to see what you all this my next course of action should be. Thanks guys.
    I've done the same things, but have also replaced the plugs. The AP stock 98 tune seemed to make a difference, and certainly made more power but I still get the stutter/hesitation. I'm watching this thread with baited breath!

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Newcastle
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    If this is an early model 6 that hasn't had a Mazda flash I would like to see a few tables.

  10. Default

    My MPS is an august 06 Model.

    I took some better data logs tonight.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/l37ea48k4i...20Datalogs.zip

    I noticed gear 2 giving me some grief too. I have included gears 2 through to 6 and each gear has a log under WOT and not under WOT.

    I'm hoping someone here with more knowledge about cars can help me out.

    Thanks for the help guys, it is really appreciated.

  11. #51

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    All you guys with hesitation and Cobb ap, have you checked your map to make sure the fixes are in place in relation to ignition and fueling tables? I had hesitation since stock and now none. If that doesn't fix it I believe its almost guaranteed to be a leak, faulty plugs , wrong gap, possibly coil packs or fuel pump

    Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

  12. #52
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
    Posts
    56

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    Quote Originally Posted by dazza View Post
    All you guys with hesitation and Cobb ap, have you checked your map to make sure the fixes are in place in relation to ignition and fueling tables?
    I'm brand new to the car, and the Cobb AP. All i've done is load the 98RON stock map on there. Is there any specific info around on how to do what you've mentioned above?

    Edit: Is this it? http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...nse-atr-26456/
    Last edited by DannersAU; 04-06-2013 at 11:46 AM.

  13. #53

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    Quote Originally Posted by pural001 View Post
    My MPS is an august 06 Model.

    I took some better data logs tonight.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/l37ea48k4i...20Datalogs.zip

    I noticed gear 2 giving me some grief too. I have included gears 2 through to 6 and each gear has a log under WOT and not under WOT.

    I'm hoping someone here with more knowledge about cars can help me out.

    Thanks for the help guys, it is really appreciated.
    Looking at those logs looks like your HPFP has shat itself?? you got no fuel pressure under load. i wouldnt drive the car until you change your fuel pump or fit better internals.

  14. #54
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
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    Hi Guys,

    Here's my log file. I noticed a bit of knock at around the 92 second mark. The car was not under much load so not sure what is going on there. also at 240 seconds the wastegate says 99% but throttle is 20-30% and <1500 rpm. I don't get it.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/wfgh1xniuh...zda6%20MPS.csv

    Thoughts?
    Last edited by DannersAU; 04-06-2013 at 03:24 PM.

  15. #55

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    Quote Originally Posted by DannersAU View Post
    Hi Guys,

    Here's my log file. I noticed a bit of knock at around the 92 second mark. The car was not under much load so not sure what is going on there

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/wfgh1xniuh...zda6%20MPS.csv

    Thoughts?
    1. Wtf ... that log is like 20 mintues long....
    2. get a proper WOT log before posting logs.
    a) drive and get into 3rd or 4th gear
    b) start logging and begin your WOT run at 3K rpm hold WOT until redline is reached or knock is being observed (over 2.0)
    3. post that log up.

  16. #56

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    Thats not a wot log, the throttlel position doesnt go above 30% do what rayd said ^

  17. #57
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    Apr 2013
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by rayd View Post
    1. Wtf ... that log is like 20 mintues long....
    2. get a proper WOT log before posting logs.
    a) drive and get into 3rd or 4th gear
    b) start logging and begin your WOT run at 3K rpm hold WOT until redline is reached or knock is being observed (over 2.0)
    3. post that log up.
    Sorry for the length of the log file. I didn't realise it would be an issue.

    My hesitation occurs under light load, usually felt in 2nd gear as i'm accelerating fairly normally through the gears. I'll run a 3rd gear WOT log, but felt as though I was most likely to capture my issue if I was driving under the circumstances it normally occurred

  18. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rayd View Post
    Looking at those logs looks like your HPFP has shat itself?? you got no fuel pressure under load. i wouldnt drive the car until you change your fuel pump or fit better internals.
    Hey thanks for looking at the logs. Some other guys in another forum have suggested i first change the spark plugs given they've done about 45,000km.
    Do you think new plugs will make much, if any, difference at all in the logs? I guess I am asking how confident you think it's just a HPFP issue. (Sorry if questions are dumb, I'm not that car savvy)

  19. #59
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Newcastle
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    It's quiet possible the hpfp. If you do a 3rd gear wot log with the required selected parameters that should be enough to show it up. Don't do a 4th gear pull just in case there is a problem! Post it up when your done

  20. #60

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    Ye man your HPFP pressures should never go below 1600PSI under load.
    Yours are reading below 60psi... That's extremely concerning to me

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