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Thread: MPS6 engine hesitation

  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Penguin740 View Post
    I took it to Chiptorque and got a custom tune. Again no change.
    That is the most depessing thing I've heard all day. Maybe all month.

    I've been all over this hesitation thing for four years and after eliminating almost every possible physical cause, the only conclusion I can reach is that it's in the software. I had high hopes that a tune would be a solution.

    Disconnect your battery for a half an hour and after that your car wont hesitate for at least 300km.

    Give it a sustained fang and it wont hesitate.

    Drive around town normally and it will hesitate.

    Definitely a software issue, with the fault somewhere in the nana maps.

    And that aint all - I reckon this is the same fault that causes the mysterious engine failures. Especially those failures that occur when guys are diiddley bopping along the highway minding their own business when for no apparent reason the engine goes kaboom.
    Last edited by kmh001; 16-11-2010 at 06:16 PM.

    Gone to Volvo


  2. #22

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    As said earlier isn't this part throttle hesistation just knock? I drive with my dashhawk running 95% of the time and often notice that if i've been sitting in traffic for extended periods of time and my boost temps climb over about 65 degrees from heat soak when i take off again and put the engine under load i often register knock if i'm not carefull. But once i drive for a min or two and the boost temps come down below 50 degrees i dont have any issues. This would explain why it happens more to people driving slow around town then to people driving fast. Just my thoughts though.

    I'm not sure that having a custom tune and still having the hesitation means that there isn't a problem with Mazda's original software. It might just mean that the perameters adjusted during the tune (air/fuel, timing) are not related to the problem. It might be the way the computer switches between maps or controls the EGR valve...

  3. #23

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    I think most of that is correct, except for the part about it being knock. The reason I say that is I've logged a few hesitation episodes and there was no knock recorded at that time. The frustrating part is that none of the recorded parameters gave any insight to the cause of the hesitation.

    But you're on the money with the fault being in part of the software that isn't altered by a tune, and showing itself when changing maps.

    BTW for Penguins benefit, mazda replaced my EGR valve and it didn't help the hesitation.

    Gone to Volvo


  4. #24

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    Did you log command EGR during any of those hesitation episodes? maybe its not the valve its self but more what its being told to do?

    Heres another crazy theory but only relates to the 6MPS. What if a glitch caused a sudden power tranfer to the rear diff. This might cause a jolt and sudden sluggish feeling due to the extra load being placed on the engine.

  5. #25

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    Yeah I considered the diff, and some people have even described it as the rear diff kicking in, which it doesn't do but anyway, I still get the hesitation when I use the 3MPS switch to turn off the diff, so it can't be that.

  6. #26

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    Well i took the car to Aspley Mazda today, they ran a software update which seems to have fixed the problem. Mech did say to wait about a week to let the ECU relearn itself and hopefully all good and all fixed.
    Is running almost perfect so fingers crossed.

  7. #27

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    Good luck, I hope for your sake the hesitation doesn't return. But I suspect the software update is no different to disconnecting the battery to reset the PCM and the hesitation will return after about 300km. Let us know in a couple of weeks how it's going.

  8. #28

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    If it does return i will try the wastegate solenoid and i am thinking about doing plugs as well as it has 83k on it. Will keep you informed :P

  9. #29

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    Update,

    After getting the software update, driving as per normal, the hesitation did return. I bought a MZR SRI and got it yesterday so i put it on.
    I have noticed a significant difference in the performance of the car, the hesitation seems to have gone from the higher gears (3,4,5 and 6) when i accelerate to try and reproduce the hesitation, it doesn't seem to wanna do it any more.
    However, i have noticed that there is a popping on cold startup which it was doing before i put SRI on, now it is alot more pronounced which makes me think it is plugs?

    I might try the plugs this weekend (not gunna hurt) if i can before i try the wastegate solenoid.
    Everything happens for a reason.

  10. #30

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    A week for an ECU to "learn"!??

    Try about 50-100km and several starting and warm-up episodes. What it hasn't learned in that time ain't gonna fix itself or be fixed by any self-edutation by the ECU.

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Newcastle
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    1,413

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    Quote Originally Posted by red6 View Post
    Hi,

    I've recently noticed a hesitation in my MPS6, no problems when I'm driving consistently reasonably hard, but (only sometimes) when I've been driving gently and try to accelerate fairly hard, it hesitates almost like an engine cut.
    it seems dealers have a hard time diagnosing this intermittant faults. what do you think the most likely causes are?
    Its your conrods trying to bend backwards due to design issues with the ecu, dont worry....its not a warranty issue

  12. #32
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
    Posts
    56

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    Extremely old thread revival here for which I apologise, but I need to see if any of you guys ever fixed your problem.

    I just bought a MPS6 on the weekend just gone and beleive it to suffer from the hesitation issues being described in this thread. I had the car mechanically inspected and test drove it myself but didn't notice until after purchase.

    My variant of the issue is not under WOT, it occurs under medium acceleration at around 2500 to 3000 rpm. Last night I gapepd and changed new spark plugs, cleaned the MAF, changed the air filter and stretched the coil pack springs - all fixes i've seen people implement in other threads. This was all done with the battery disconnected. I took the car for a drive afterwards and it appeared "better" but still there.

    By the looks of it, my next step is to purchase an EGR delete kit, and look at potentially replacing the wastegate solenoid??

    I'm hoping that due to the age of this thread, the people in it having the problem might have some more answers

    Keen to hear from you

    Dan

  13. #33

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    mu Cobb AP fixed it for me as it changes the mapping and smooths everything out.

    but see what the boffins say.

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
    Posts
    56

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pistol Pete View Post
    mu Cobb AP fixed it for me as it changes the mapping and smooths everything out.

    but see what the boffins say.
    I have a Cobb AP sitting in my cart on the Edge Autosport site as I write this. I was hoping that it would help fix... even if it doesn't i'm sure it's worth it anyway

    Thanks for letting me know

  15. #35

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    I only ever had hesitation under WOT, and it is usually under wot that the cobb ap fixes are for, 'wot hesitation'. Mine was on wot usually on 3rd-4th shift but now its gone. Basically they adjust ignition tables to overcome this but I havent heard of this specific hesitation on part throttle, it may be another issue such as a boost leak, what did you gap the spark plugs to? If you have the AP on the way, id try that first as the latest maps already have the fixes in place.

  16. #36
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
    Posts
    56

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    Quote Originally Posted by dazza View Post
    I only ever had hesitation under WOT, and it is usually under wot that the cobb ap fixes are for, 'wot hesitation'. Mine was on wot usually on 3rd-4th shift but now its gone. Basically they adjust ignition tables to overcome this but I havent heard of this specific hesitation on part throttle, it may be another issue such as a boost leak, what did you gap the spark plugs to? If you have the AP on the way, id try that first as the latest maps already have the fixes in place.
    Hey Dazza,

    I gapped to 0.028" which I understand is the factory specs. The plugs I removed had up to 0.031" gaps, so not terrible. Hope to be able to fix this! I can feel the car has the power there, just seems to be getting strangled for some reason

  17. #37

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    Interesting, the gaps wouldnt be the problem then.. Once you get AP should be able to diagnose it alot easier. id suggest doing a boost leak test as well as testing your coil pack resistances to see if you have a faulty coil pack, the proper value is around 1.8-2k resistance I believe
    http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...-coil-pack.gif
    Last edited by dazza; 15-05-2013 at 12:17 PM.

  18. Default

    @DannersAU did you do a boost leak test? If no i'd be doing one. One other suggestion is to have a close look at the OEM boost control solenoid as these commonly can crack as was the case with mine.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD

  19. #39
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
    Posts
    56

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    I haven't done a boost leak test. Is there a particular method you'd recommend??

    re the boost control solenoid, is this the same as the part replaced by getting a grimspeed, or seperate? I was thinking of upgrading this.

  20. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by DannersAU View Post
    I haven't done a boost leak test. Is there a particular method you'd recommend??

    re the boost control solenoid, is this the same as the part replaced by getting a grimspeed, or seperate? I was thinking of upgrading this.
    There are a few ways you can boost leak test, I did mine straight from the end of my intake (3") as this pressurizes and tests the maf etc pre-turbo, the most common way is to attach the boost leak tester directly to the turbo or turbo inlet pipe, I think its 2.25" or thereabouts, google will help there.
    If you do it at the intake you can test the bov/maf, out of 2 stock bpvs ive tested both were leaking quite considerably (doubt this is your problem but any leaks are bad, boost or vacuum). You also need to block the hose going to the crankcase as to not pressurize this. If testing bpv, you will also block the recirculation hose (the bigger hose attached to bpv) and plug it off.
    Last edited by dazza; 15-05-2013 at 03:45 PM.
    '05 6 MPS | BNR S3 | JBR 3.5" Intake | Corksport Airbox | CP-E 3.25" TMIC | M2 DP | CP-E CBE | CP-E/TT Diff Mounts | Autotech HPFP Internals | JBR REM, PMM, TMM | SURE Shortcut | SURE Countershift | SURE Anchors | Denso ITV22s | JBR TIGs | EGR Delete | Coolant Bypass | PTP Inj Seals | MD OCC | H&R Springs | Bilstein B8 Shocks | Car-LED Tails | Badgeless Grille | 6000k HIDs | OZ Ultraleggera 18x8 +48





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