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Thread: Bedding in a new clutch...?

  1. #1

    Default Bedding in a new clutch...?

    Gday guys,

    Pick up my 6MPS tomorrow with the new OEM Clutch and Dual Mass Flywheel fitted.
    Now ive heard a few different views out there whether or not you have to bed in or run in a new clutch or not.
    After ive fitted previous cars with new clutches, (whether they be button like my S14 had, or stock \ HD ) ive never been told or had to bed in a clutch.

    Any opinions?
    Any help?

    I will ask the dealer, plus my Mazda Dealer and Adelaide Clutch (Extreme Clutches) but all the help info and discussion is good

    Cheers

    Current: 2002 Nissan S15 200SX SPEC R
    Previously: 2006 Mazda 6 MPS ,MY00 WRX CLUB SPEC EVO IV Hatch ,97' Nissan S14A 200sx, Nissan R34 GT-T, Nissan S12 Silvia

  2. #2

    Default

    The friction material in a clutch is similar, and in some cases identical, to brake linings. So the bedding-in method is the same, i.e. drive the car completely normally.

    The bedding-in procedure you hear about for brakes exists for legal liability reasons, it's actually harmful to the brakes.

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kmh001 View Post
    The friction material in a clutch is similar, and in some cases identical, to brake linings. So the bedding-in method is the same, i.e. drive the car completely normally.

    The bedding-in procedure you hear about for brakes exists for legal liability reasons, it's actually harmful to the brakes.
    Thanks for that

    Current: 2002 Nissan S15 200SX SPEC R
    Previously: 2006 Mazda 6 MPS ,MY00 WRX CLUB SPEC EVO IV Hatch ,97' Nissan S14A 200sx, Nissan R34 GT-T, Nissan S12 Silvia

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kmh001 View Post
    The friction material in a clutch is similar, and in some cases identical, to brake linings. So the bedding-in method is the same, i.e. drive the car completely normally.

    The bedding-in procedure you hear about for brakes exists for legal liability reasons, it's actually harmful to the brakes.
    I never knew that!! Interesting to hear since some people swear by bedding in their brakes.
    Not Gone...just "busy"
    Quote Originally Posted by Street Road Laino
    It's not blue screen of death Kent, it's Auora Blue screen of death

  5. #5

    Default

    Then how shud u bed them in. Bit off topic sorry

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Location
    Coomera, Gold Coast
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by STEALTH_MPS View Post
    Then how shud u bed them in. Bit off topic sorry
    Quote Originally Posted by kmh001 View Post
    So the bedding-in method is the same, i.e. drive the car completely normally.
    As he said before
    Not Gone...just "busy"
    Quote Originally Posted by Street Road Laino
    It's not blue screen of death Kent, it's Auora Blue screen of death

  7. #7

    Default

    Since we're off topic; it's true that brake pads (and rotors) need to be bedded-in, but the bedding-in procedures you hear about should really only apply to racing cars. Street pads are often at risk of being damaged by attempts to follow a special bedding-in procedure.

    The underlying problem is that new pads are vulnerable to 'green fade' which means they will experience severe fade at lower than usual temperature, until they become stabilised. Brake pad manufacturers are concerned about motorists potentially having a collision while driving on new pads that fade because they haven't yet stabilised - so they prescribe a bedding-in procedure that stabilises the pads in a very short period of time and relieves them of liability.

    However that's not the best way to stabilise most street pads. It's better to do it gradually by just driving around normally and avoiding situations that might cause fade. Pads will generally perform more consistently and better over the long-term if they are bedded-in gradually. Should only take around 200km of normal driving.

    Gone to Volvo


  8. #8

    Default

    No wonder my new pads on my old S14 went dead after a few weeks lol (i was told to 'bed' them in by slamming on the brakes etc etc etc)

    Cheers

    (BTW still haven't got my car back, they didn't tension the flywheel bolts properly so apparently the clutch pedal was so stiff it took 2 legs to push it down.. So they have dropped the box AGAIN and re done the flywheel bolts and i pick it up today...
    WOW, thats a pretty big stuff up i say?)

    Current: 2002 Nissan S15 200SX SPEC R
    Previously: 2006 Mazda 6 MPS ,MY00 WRX CLUB SPEC EVO IV Hatch ,97' Nissan S14A 200sx, Nissan R34 GT-T, Nissan S12 Silvia

  9. #9

    Default

    Sure is, turning 2 days work into 4 days can't be good for the old performance appraisal.

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kmh001 View Post
    Sure is, turning 2 days work into 4 days can't be good for the old performance appraisal.
    They have had the car for 5 working days............... not happy.

    Sorry, Off topic

    Current: 2002 Nissan S15 200SX SPEC R
    Previously: 2006 Mazda 6 MPS ,MY00 WRX CLUB SPEC EVO IV Hatch ,97' Nissan S14A 200sx, Nissan R34 GT-T, Nissan S12 Silvia

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