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Thread: Manual Boost Controller?

  1. #1

    Default Manual Boost Controller?

    Hey Guys,

    I'm planning on picking up a manual boost controller and gauge (hopefully this week) so as to wind up the boost a couple of PSI (17 - 18??) without breaking the bank (or my car hopefully). Do any of you guys run them and if so can you tell me or direct me to trustworthy installation instructions. I couldn't find any on the forums here.

  2. #2
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    Dont bother....save your money for a proper tuning method, besides youll just end up getting boost cut if you hit 18psi for more than about 2 seconds.

  3. #3

    Default

    Standback has a boost controller in it!

    Save your money and get one of them... it was well worth my investment!

  4. #4

    Default

    Thanks for the tips guys. I'll work on filling up my piggy bank.

  5. #5

    Default

    Manual boost controllers worked great on my S14 200SX, R34 and CA18....
    But i left it up to a proper REMAP \ flash tune to put a few psi more into my WRX and ill do the same for the MPS...

    Cars arnt like they used to be
    (i miss the non electronic boost solenoid days lol )

  6. #6

    Default

    A boost controller is a decent option, especially for the price. You're still going to run into boost cut with a standback/flash unless you get CP-e's BBF (Big Boy Flash) which disables boost cut. No point spending money on a standback if you don't know how/aren't going to tune it, because then you're just paying for a really expensive boost controller. If you're able to get your hands on a flash, then depending on your budget I would suggest that, however a boost controller is a perfectly acceptable solution. Hell, whoosh's dynos were all done with a boost controller and no standback.
    Nuliaj: Hatches are only really half a car anyway.
    shinslinger66: And you forgot to add that they are also a girls car!

  7. #7
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    Not entirely true, an Xede or standback will regulate the voltage (boost) seen by the cars MAP sensor, allowing higher boost levels than the cut is programmed, i.e ECU will still only think its boosting to 15.7 psi where as real world manifold pressure can be around 18-19, which is why it is imperative to have the car professionally tuned to compensate for the added boost and the effects on the cars AFR's.
    The big boy flash is more so aimed at fuel cut, a different kettle of fish all together.

  8. #8
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    i have the chip torque boost controller and tune... 16 psi ir 20.1... no boost cut!!
    get the pros to do it... but be prepared to spend 1000 +

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    I have the boys trying to talk me into getting a switch so I can flick between 14.5psi for daily driving and 18/19psi for short term sprints is this a similar thing. So used to V8's to techno for me I need a book to read the lingo....

  10. #10

    Default

    Thanks for all the advice guys. What i was thinking though was with a quality MBC that eliminates spiking (possibly not completely) you would be able to run at least an extra 2 PSI over stock without reaching boost cut? I understand that boost levels are different across all gears but adjusted correctly i think this might be achievable adding a few extra horses without spending much and still having the protection of boost cut. In any case i will wait till i get a gauge so i can see how much boost is being produced now....I have an inlet and SRI so far and i'm going to order a turbo smart BPV. How will these mods affect boost pressure?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MattMPS3 View Post
    Not entirely true, an Xede or standback will regulate the voltage (boost) seen by the cars MAP sensor, allowing higher boost levels than the cut is programmed, i.e ECU will still only think its boosting to 15.7 psi where as real world manifold pressure can be around 18-19, which is why it is imperative to have the car professionally tuned to compensate for the added boost and the effects on the cars AFR's.
    The big boy flash is more so aimed at fuel cut, a different kettle of fish all together.
    Matt is 100% correct. My haltech set the clamp limit at around 15psi and that is why my scangauge only able to read max 29.8psi from MAP. Currently running 18psi without any boost cut.
    GROM iPod & Bluetooth car kit, ETS TMIC, HKS BOV, AEM CAI, Denso ITV-22's, CPE down pipe, Custom Exhaust tip, Hypertech tuned, Bilstein shocks with King Spring, CPE engine mount, CPE rear diff mount, Whiteline rear sway bar, EBC redstuff brake pad, DBA 4000 front slotted rotors, Prosport Boost gauge, JBarone Short Shift Plate

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