Hmm.. where would u spray this in a normal 3?
Hmm.. where would u spray this in a normal 3?
Same as for most cars, through the brake booster vacuum hose.
would this be a similar guide?
found on mazda3forums
First get all of your supplies together, i use one foot of 3/8 fuel line, it is sold by the foot and this is the perfect amount for the job, i used a pyrex glass to measure out 1/3 of an pint, i also used a small dish to feed only a small amount at a time. (i did this at my moms place so dishware was all that was availble)
now find the vacuum line going into the manifold right after the throttle body.
turn the red clip so you can see were the two ends seperate, then push down on the clip to remove it.
pull the vacuum line off to reveal the nipple where you will attach the 3/8 fuel line.
now attach the vacuum hose, feed it upwards out of the engine bay, everything is near the fan so be CAUTIOUS.
now feed the seafoam into the hose, SLOWLY.
in between feeding SMALL amounts of the seafoam into the engine, cover the vacuum hose with your thumb to allow the engine to return to a normal idle, thus more effectively sucking the seafoam into the cylinders.
after feeding all of the seafoam, turn off the engine and allow it to soak for 10 minutes, turn your engine on and enjoy the smoke.
some tips, remember to feed it SLOWLY this stuff can hydrolock your engine if your not careful
turn off the engine when your detaching/attaching the vacuum hose, it is near the fan so be careful
when you reattach the red clip push it on from the top then wiggle it till it is in it's correct place.
good luck
(this was done on a 2006 2.0l non pzev sedan)
Yeah, as I understand it, that's the same procedure, but it may be possible to use the existing hose so you don't need to buy another one.
Bought two cans of Subaru UEC the other day for $17 plus gst. Used one on the station wagon and one on the MPS. It doesn't foam up like seafoam and there was very little smoke so there's no need to do it in the dark for fear of embarrassing yourself.
The MPS ran a little rough for about 10 minutes after the treatment and doesn't feel like it has gained anything. But the Verada feels much nicer, exactly how you would expect an engine to feel after a good clean out.
Current: 2002 Nissan S15 200SX SPEC R
Previously: 2006 Mazda 6 MPS ,MY00 WRX CLUB SPEC EVO IV Hatch ,97' Nissan S14A 200sx, Nissan R34 GT-T, Nissan S12 Silvia
Hi,
I've used various cleaners over the years and generally used them on second hand cars I've bought.
Most of my recent cars cars I've bought new and only run BP ultimate. I've had injectors removed and they are really clean, I assume the rest of the inlet system is also clean.
My opinion is if you are using ultimate or a couple of similar premium petrols from new, I don't think you'll notice any improvement from the cleaner.
Different story with a direct injection engine where there is no injector spraying fuel on the back of the inlet valve. Have a look at the pictures on page 1 of this thread. It seems that no DI engine is immune. VW are now fitting electric vacuum pumps to evacuate crank case gases on DI engines and even with air-oil separators apparently still haven't solved the problem of inlet valve contamination
I was talking to my friend who has a DI Golf GTI. He said every service, there seems to be a charge to clean the upper engine... **shrugs
I just used 2 cans of the Subaru upper engine cleaner on my MPS6.
I ran the first can with the engine off through the brake booster hose, then had a brainwave and ran the hose for the second can underneath the silicone hose just before the throttle plate at idle.
It only smoked for a little bit when I started the car afterwards, but coupled with an oil change it's now much smoother at idle than before.
I'd recommend it