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Thread: Mazda 6 MPS Engine swap

  1. #1

    Default Mazda 6 MPS Engine swap

    I've decided to post up some details of me changing out the engine of my pandemic resto project; a Mazda 6 MPS with a busted motor which I bought to keep my occupied while I am working less than normal hours:

    Day 0.5

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    I did what others suggested and removed the front off the car, I am not sure if you really need to do this but it does make access a lot easier. The annoying part was needing to de-gas the A/C which means I am going to need to recommission that when I get the car going again which is more $ and time. On other cars I normally just undo the compressor from the block and leave everything connected.
    It took me about three hours to get to this point and was easier than I expected.

    I did all the electrics, I found it easier to remove the engine harness at the fuse box.

    Day 1.5
    I decided to spend a full day on the next step which is about 7 hours when I took out the distractions;

    I got the motor out:

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    I decided to start by removing the driveshafts:

    Right side first (as I will need to drain the gearbox oil to do the left side which I can't be bothered doing just now)

    Here is where a decent set of ball joint tools come in handy:

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    The top ball joint usually needs a 6mm hex or allen key to stop it spinning around.

    The next step is to remove the driveshaft, I like to use a sliding hammer and chain. I wrap the chain around the 'neck' of the drive shaft and then hammer away!

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    I ended up doing the left side a bit later, same procedure but there is not enough room for the sliding hammer and chain and so I used a BIG flat blade screwdriver to pry it apart.

    Both knuckle assemblies are fine to just hang on the lower ball joint but you need to remember to disconnect the brake line and sensor intermediate hanger:

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    After this I disconnected the tail shaft but to do that I needed to remove the stabiliser bar then the cat and downpipe. I used my electric rattle gun plus I needed to use a universal joint just to get in there.
    No pics of this bit.

    But here is the rattle gun:

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    Well worth the purchase price especially if you are going to do this more than once.

    Minor distraction I decided to remove the flex plate from my CX7 motor while I had it out.
    Like a lot of other Mazda's I've worked on the flex pate / flywheel bolts are all held in with thread sealer as the crankshaft holes are not blind, so I will need to find out what I did with my loctite blue before I re assemble. Important to do this otherwise oil will leak onto the clutch disc rendering it useless.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2

    Default

    Part2 :

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    I had a few distractions like removing the flex plate from the replacement motor to test out the rattle gun. I will also need to wire brush off the old thread sealer before re using the bolts.

    Also I had another couple of distractions; I've never liked how the A/C performs at idle speed on a hot day in these cars. When I last owned one back in 2015 I decided I was going to do something about it.
    The first issue is that where the fresh air is drawn from picks up under the bonnet hot air. I taped over that bit last time but I will see if I can do better but that will be after the car runs.

    I also looked at different compressor options. The stock one is a Panasonic 12cc, I had a look to see what other cars with the same block casting were using. The GH model 6 uses a variable displacement 17cc which is much better. I was able to pick one up cheaply used I decided to see how hard it would be to fit:

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    The two side by side.

    Test fitting the GH one I notice that there are 4 bolts, and one short one for the GG one and it is too short for the GH one but the other three are OK. The suction and discharge ports are in roughly the same spot although the discharge one is at a slightly different angle.
    Test fitting the hoses, they don't fit, the ports are different sizes. The next step is a visit to pick a part to get some GH hoses.

    Another distraction; now that I know the old block is toast:

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    A hole that should not be there! plus coolant leaking from the bottom of the bell housing.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Broken pieces of metal in the under tray; another bad sign.

    I acquired a L5 bare block that is a bit worn in need of reconditioning but is otherwise OK. I thought I might built up a frankenmotor time permitting using the hopefully still OK L3-VDT head and L5 block. The first check was to measure the block castings and the height is the same at 320mm
    I had my concerns when I found some suggestions on line that it might be taller.
    What this means now is that the rods are either shorter or the piston compression height is less.

    The main issue with the L5 block is that it uses a cast crank with non turbo L3 piston pin sizes and rod small end dimensions. While this might not seem like a big deal, one or two millimetres doesn't seem like a lot the strength is related to area and so this goes off the square of the radius.

    What I really want to do is use at least L3-VDT crank pin and piston pin dimensions for strength. As standard L5 block is probably fine for stock L3-VDT power and maybe a little over but not massive increases.

    I managed to get my hands on a PYY5 crank which is a skyactive 2.5T from a 2018 CX9. It is forged and uses the L3-VDT crank pin diameter. I am not sure if I can fit it yet. but if it works then all I need to do is work out what rods and pistons to use. It'd be nice price wise to be able to use stock PYY5 ones or something like that but I am not sure yet on the piston crown shape or volume.

    More research to be done which I will do on the side while getting the car going with a stock motor.

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tool View Post
    Part2 :

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_6215.jpg 
Views:	105 
Size:	1.73 MB 
ID:	18067

    I had a few distractions like removing the flex plate from the replacement motor to test out the rattle gun. I will also need to wire brush off the old thread sealer before re using the bolts.

    Also I had another couple of distractions; I've never liked how the A/C performs at idle speed on a hot day in these cars. When I last owned one back in 2015 I decided I was going to do something about it.
    The first issue is that where the fresh air is drawn from picks up under the bonnet hot air. I taped over that bit last time but I will see if I can do better but that will be after the car runs.

    I also looked at different compressor options. The stock one is a Panasonic 12cc, I had a look to see what other cars with the same block casting were using. The GH model 6 uses a variable displacement 17cc which is much better. I was able to pick one up cheaply used I decided to see how hard it would be to fit:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_6218.jpg 
Views:	106 
Size:	1.95 MB 
ID:	18068

    The two side by side.

    Test fitting the GH one I notice that there are 4 bolts, and one short one for the GG one and it is too short for the GH one but the other three are OK. The suction and discharge ports are in roughly the same spot although the discharge one is at a slightly different angle.
    Test fitting the hoses, they don't fit, the ports are different sizes. The next step is a visit to pick a part to get some GH hoses.

    Another distraction; now that I know the old block is toast:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_6226.jpg 
Views:	125 
Size:	1.97 MB 
ID:	18069
    A hole that should not be there! plus coolant leaking from the bottom of the bell housing.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_6257.jpg 
Views:	101 
Size:	1.22 MB 
ID:	18070

    Broken pieces of metal in the under tray; another bad sign.

    I acquired a L5 bare block that is a bit worn in need of reconditioning but is otherwise OK. I thought I might built up a frankenmotor time permitting using the hopefully still OK L3-VDT head and L5 block. The first check was to measure the block castings and the height is the same at 320mm
    I had my concerns when I found some suggestions on line that it might be taller.
    What this means now is that the rods are either shorter or the piston compression height is less.

    The main issue with the L5 block is that it uses a cast crank with non turbo L3 piston pin sizes and rod small end dimensions. While this might not seem like a big deal, one or two millimetres doesn't seem like a lot the strength is related to area and so this goes off the square of the radius.

    What I really want to do is use at least L3-VDT crank pin and piston pin dimensions for strength. As standard L5 block is probably fine for stock L3-VDT power and maybe a little over but not massive increases.

    I managed to get my hands on a PYY5 crank which is a skyactive 2.5T from a 2018 CX9. It is forged and uses the L3-VDT crank pin diameter. I am not sure if I can fit it yet. but if it works then all I need to do is work out what rods and pistons to use. It'd be nice price wise to be able to use stock PYY5 ones or something like that but I am not sure yet on the piston crown shape or volume.

    More research to be done which I will do on the side while getting the car going with a stock motor.
    I am following this, interesting to see especially about the AC compressor and the the CX9 crank


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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