Part2 :
I had a few distractions like removing the flex plate from the replacement motor to test out the rattle gun. I will also need to wire brush off the old thread sealer before re using the bolts.
Also I had another couple of distractions; I've never liked how the A/C performs at idle speed on a hot day in these cars. When I last owned one back in 2015 I decided I was going to do something about it.
The first issue is that where the fresh air is drawn from picks up under the bonnet hot air. I taped over that bit last time but I will see if I can do better but that will be after the car runs.
I also looked at different compressor options. The stock one is a Panasonic 12cc, I had a look to see what other cars with the same block casting were using. The GH model 6 uses a variable displacement 17cc which is much better. I was able to pick one up cheaply used I decided to see how hard it would be to fit:
The two side by side.
Test fitting the GH one I notice that there are 4 bolts, and one short one for the GG one and it is too short for the GH one but the other three are OK. The suction and discharge ports are in roughly the same spot although the discharge one is at a slightly different angle.
Test fitting the hoses, they don't fit, the ports are different sizes. The next step is a visit to pick a part to get some GH hoses.
Another distraction; now that I know the old block is toast:
A hole that should not be there! plus coolant leaking from the bottom of the bell housing.
Broken pieces of metal in the under tray; another bad sign.
I acquired a L5 bare block that is a bit worn in need of reconditioning but is otherwise OK. I thought I might built up a frankenmotor time permitting using the hopefully still OK L3-VDT head and L5 block. The first check was to measure the block castings and the height is the same at 320mm
I had my concerns when I found some suggestions on line that it might be taller.
What this means now is that the rods are either shorter or the piston compression height is less.
The main issue with the L5 block is that it uses a cast crank with non turbo L3 piston pin sizes and rod small end dimensions. While this might not seem like a big deal, one or two millimetres doesn't seem like a lot the strength is related to area and so this goes off the square of the radius.
What I really want to do is use at least L3-VDT crank pin and piston pin dimensions for strength. As standard L5 block is probably fine for stock L3-VDT power and maybe a little over but not massive increases.
I managed to get my hands on a PYY5 crank which is a skyactive 2.5T from a 2018 CX9. It is forged and uses the L3-VDT crank pin diameter. I am not sure if I can fit it yet. but if it works then all I need to do is work out what rods and pistons to use. It'd be nice price wise to be able to use stock PYY5 ones or something like that but I am not sure yet on the piston crown shape or volume.
More research to be done which I will do on the side while getting the car going with a stock motor.