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Thread: OEM Mazda Retractable Navigation/Display Installation

  1. #1
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    Default OEM Mazda Retractable Navigation/Display Installation

    This is a cool little compartment that sits above the center console vents and stows an LCD display or GPS away. My intention is to use it as a docking bay for my ultramobile PC. Following on from that I will be doing OBD2 logging and instrumentation with it; boost gauge etc. The software and PC specific how-to's will go in another thread.

    I sourced the retractable nav box from Japanparts.com - Mail order from Japan directly|JDM Parts,Performance Auto Parts,for Subaru, Mazda,Mitsubishi,Honda,Nissan,Toyota car and it is currently awaiting installation. The two things you need to sort out before you put it in are firstly cabling for power and any signals necessary - video, usb etc - and how you are going to mount your screen or gps. It is likely you will need to fabricate a solution. I am designing a bracket to suit my ultramobile - the design will facilitate interchangeable display brackets for different display devices that can be exchanged without disassembling the nav box housing.

    This is not a powered unit that pops out of the dash - this is a manual pivot that clips into retracted or open positions with a sliding lid that hides it away when not in use. Once unclipped from the retracted position there is a simple mechanism that sees the display "drop" into the open position over a couple of seconds. To lock it open however you need to do that manually.

    The manuals are all japanese, of course; you need to be careful which screws you use where, because you could damage the retaining mechanisms if you use the wrong ones in the wrong places.

    I'll post pics and notes as I install...

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    Default First mockup

    In order to see I have what I need and that things are going to fit, did a mockup today....

    Pics attached
    #1 : the separate parts. the mounting piece on the left has a plate that pivots from the top edge, allowing the display to hang face down in the retracted position and latch in place. The plate has 6 mounting holes allowing variety of devices to be placed low or high according to the display size and what fits under the sliding lid.
    #2 : parts in position with the lid down
    #3 : parts in position with the lid up and ultramobile sitting in position
    #4 : this is the part that bolts to the backing plate that you will need to modify, replace or work with in order to mount your screen.

    For me this is a tight fit as the PC is slightly fatter and larger than a 7" LCD display which I would suggest is nearly as big as you would manage. Thinner is better and 7.5" screen should be fine, I have my doubts for 8", will try later to get a good idea of what the largest fitment size might be.

    I am hoping to attach a usb connector hidden at the base of the unit, and run power and audio to the right side. The unit needs to accommodate a firewire connector at the rear of the unit, either to allow the existing modules to plug directly in (makes it fatter still) or to use a firewire cable connection in order to place the expansion modules - GPS and HD TV elsewhere in the vehicle. There's a docking connector, but that is a bit too fiddly for prototyping.

    Going the whole hog, I would be placing the GPS and TV units somewhere in/on the roof near the external antenna connection is. Again, too fiddly for prototyping and I want the modules to be removable.

    The USB, audio and power connectors will all need to be right-angle plugs to get enough room to operate. The firewire connector on the back of the unit may be useful in helping locate the device in the bracket am designing. It will probably need to be right angle as well.
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    Last edited by Nexus; 05-07-2009 at 09:32 PM.

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    Default

    Well, I was going to post a second mockup with prototype bracket folded up but the ultra mobile PC was stolen night before last, so project is on hold until I source a replacement.

    Pricks.

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    Replacement PC :


    it's 10" widescreen and probably won't fit in the enclosure, so...now on the hunt for a 8" 16:9 USB touchscreen that can be easily mounted in the nav box and the ultramobile will mount elsewhere in the vehicle. Drivers side door storage pocket, or possibly passenger side so they can watch TV or DVD on their lap and the dash display will continue to function for gauges etc.

    This simplifies the installation somewhat - won't be trying to cram the UMPC computer, cables, expansion modules and 7" screen all into the nav box...

  5. #5

    Default

    thats nice BACK ON TOPIC

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    Default Standalone touchscreen makes it expensive.

    Cost wise an integrated UMPC solution that fits the enclosure is your best option to keep the $ down to a minimum. Standalone screens not cheap.

    I am looking at this screen :


    And although it's expensive it's an appropriate part for automotive use in terms of screen brightness, anti-glare etc, and it reports resolution support to 1600x1200, 16:9 so it should handle the 1334x768 native resolution of the netbook's own touchscreen making clone mode easy. It's also versatile and I would be able to connect a gps display output or other devices to it as well, although I will be looking at travelroute copilot 10 for PC GPS software with a USB receiver. I am tempted to try and place the gps unit on the roof with the stock AMFM antenna.

  7. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Nexus View Post
    In order to see I have what I need and that things are going to fit, did a mockup today....

    Pics attached
    #1 : the separate parts. the mounting piece on the left has a plate that pivots from the top edge, allowing the display to hang face down in the retracted position and latch in place. The plate has 6 mounting holes allowing variety of devices to be placed low or high according to the display size and what fits under the sliding lid.
    #2 : parts in position with the lid down
    #3 : parts in position with the lid up and ultramobile sitting in position
    #4 : this is the part that bolts to the backing plate that you will need to modify, replace or work with in order to mount your screen.

    For me this is a tight fit as the PC is slightly fatter and larger than a 7" LCD display which I would suggest is nearly as big as you would manage. Thinner is better and 7.5" screen should be fine, I have my doubts for 8", will try later to get a good idea of what the largest fitment size might be.

    I am hoping to attach a usb connector hidden at the base of the unit, and run power and audio to the right side. The unit needs to accommodate a firewire connector at the rear of the unit, either to allow the existing modules to plug directly in (makes it fatter still) or to use a firewire cable connection in order to place the expansion modules - GPS and HD TV elsewhere in the vehicle. There's a docking connector, but that is a bit too fiddly for prototyping.

    Going the whole hog, I would be placing the GPS and TV units somewhere in/on the roof near the external antenna connection is. Again, too fiddly for prototyping and I want the modules to be removable.

    The USB, audio and power connectors will all need to be right-angle plugs to get enough room to operate. The firewire connector on the back of the unit may be useful in helping locate the device in the bracket am designing. It will probably need to be right angle as well.
    Hope to get one done in my MPS

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    Default Now things are moving again

    OK - I sourced a xenarc 706tsa touch screen from states a good % cheaper. $500 inc shipping. Also have a BU-353 GPS reciever module landing soon. They are about $70 shipped to your door. GPS laptop software is more expensive, I already had a copy of copilot laptop 10 and it's worth about $350 or more

    I was going to make a separate thread thread for the PC related stuff, but since for the time being I am going with readily available windows software and the new screen should make for a very simple display install, I'm going to document that here as well.

    If and when I get back to work on a linux/open source car computing solution I'll post that up seperately. There's about $1000 worth of software licensing doing it with windows.

    I'm looking at palmer performance ScanXL and DashCommand for OBDII diag and instrumentation - with the mazda proprietary scan extensions.

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    Default Most parts have landed

    Today I received the xenarc touch screen. Quick test : All good, image quality good at 1280x768 test res

    Set about installing it into the NAV box and....as usual the appearance of a painless install is just an illusion and despite having only one cable to pass through...the cable opening at the rear of the nav box needs enlarging to allow the cable to pass.

    The cable is fairly heavy duty too which may pose a clearance issue beneath the screen in the open position and retraction mechanism fouling. Looks like it will wear in and soften, but I'm wanting to order a spare cable now...

    More later...

    ---------- Post added at 12:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:58 AM ----------

    Cable issue will force modification of the OEM box and/or manufacture or purchase an alternate cable.

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    Default Cable and nav box modifications, screen fitment.

    OK - screen itself is now installed in the enclosure. This required modification of the supplied cable, so I will be purchasing a spare. Basically the blasted choke's on the ends of the cables get in the way and prevent the screen being easily fit within it's form factor.

    What I ended up doing is documented in attached pics.
    (a) cut away the plastic shroud around the choke on one end of the cable with a scalpel. My intention was to remove the choke altogether however the ferrite core is a one piece placed around the cable, so it cannot be removed without destroying it. (Many of these chokes are two piece) I briefly considered smashing it off with a hammer but felt that was too great a risk to the cable. cutting the plastic off just got me a few extra mm clearance underneath the screen. It's necessary. I then had a brainwave and assembled the screen and mounting bracket with the cable neatly wedged between the screen and mounting bracket and the cable arranged in a loop that minimises the amount the cable extends outside the screens profile, and cable tied the loop in place.

    (b), (c) and (d) with the screen and cable successfully arranged to avoid fouling when the screen is opened and closed, the next hurdle is getting the cable through the cable opening in the nav box. Find yourself a dremel or similar and cut away the plastic to open the hole up. Again the choke on the cable end dictates the size of the hole. Additionally this allows the cable to play when the screen is opened and closed and avoids rubbing the cable anywhere.

    (e) Physical install complete. This is not yet a fully functional display install : there is now a control and signal box to install elsewhere in the dash...I'll document the cabling path when I fit that.
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    Default Control box fitment

    I have currently placed the control box in the glovebox while I test the software - I am simply strapping the laptop into the passenger seat at the moment.

    Cable routing is simply to the left of the screen to the rear of the glovebox which has an opening to facilitate that.

    I won't be leaving it there though. There is a mounting solution for such control boxes - the US/JDM market vehicles with GPS place the control unit below the passenger aircon vent. As the neccessary bracket is missing, there is space above the glovebox towards the rear. I am considering placing the control electronics there.

    Routing the cabling and installation of the control box requires removal of scuff gaurd, side trims (either side of passenger footwell), decoration panel, and glovebox itself.

    Once electronics are placed on top of the glovebox, I will need to put some kind of service caution sticker and documentation where it will be seen by the tech, as otherwise there might be a risk of cable damage - vehicle and or screen - if the glovebox was removed without consideration of the hardware attached above it.

    It would require just a little more care removing the glovebox.

    More pics later...

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    Very long time no update. The solution with an Intel Atom based micro PC under the passenger seat worked well for a few years, there were some shortcomings - the screen needs a shroud or there's too much reflection off the windscreen at night for my liking (a-la HUD only annoying instead of useful)

    So I've recently begun overhauling this with a modern solution that will support apple carplay and android auto.

    Changes currently in development:

    Raspberry Pi CM4 + I/O board main computer - much more compact than the old Intel atom PC. I'm using an 8GB RAM, 32Gb onboard storage model
    Plus Additional pi components:
    USB3 interface for the CM4 IO board.
    Audio will be delivered to the media aux input of the Mazda OEM headunit via a hifiberry audio interface:
    https://www.hifiberry.com/shop/board...y-dac-adc-pro/
    An automative DC-DC ATX power supply with programmable ignition/aux on triggered power-on power-off sequence - https://mini-box.com.au/product/picopsu-120-wi-25v/
    An ATX power supply watchdog for Pi - https://pipci.jeffgeerling.com/board...chdog-cm4.html

    LineageOS open source build for Raspberry Pi - This provides the android operating system and an interface that can be customized to suit automotive use.
    https://konstakang.com/devices/rpi4/LineageOS19/

    Carlinkit - Android device interface to provide Apple Carplay and Android auto functionality
    https://www.carlinkit.com/products.html

    The Pi supports dual screens so I am looking into developing a dual touchscreen configuration - one on top of center console will provide the usual android head-unit and carplay functions with the other screen just above the drivers side air vent next to A pillar - where back in the day was the best place to windscreen mount a GPS - this will display OBD diagnostics and instrumentation. I'll probably keep using dashcommand software for that function, however it's support isn't what it used to be, so may change if necessary.

    Once all that is sorted, I'll be looking at some automation tools to support other mods to the vehicle.
    These include:
    PIN/password protected ignition cut.
    I have a C-TEK battery isolator with a reserve battery sitting in the boot with the spacesaver spare.
    With some high current relays this could be switched for isolated reserve battery to a cranking battery booster configuration. Switch reserve battery to boost cranking for 15 seconds in the event the cranking battery has gotten weak for any reason. That's not good to do to GEL/AGM batteries but it's an emergency feature so I'm OK with it. Have done it before manually and the battery is still good.
    This would be acheived with some pi hardware like this: https://core-electronics.com.au/pire...erry-pi-1.html plus some high current relays.

    Other possible control features would be RGB lighting control, although I don't have any toys like that

    Parts are currently on test bench. OS has been built, I'm currently testing out screen configurations, a newer xenarc screen and software customisations.
    Before it gets installed I'll need to configure the DC2DC ATX power supply and watchdog.

    Currently got it as far as using waze as a GPS application and a car-specific android interface. I haven't tested carplay yet but that'll come after ATX power which I need before installing USB3.

    Pics on testbench soon.
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Michelin PS5 - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - Corksport turbo manifold - HT 98 octane tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - Bespoke Raspberry Pi Android based GPS/Carplay and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold.

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    Parts on the bench for assembly testing
    ATX power hardware on far left = 12V automotive power supply, ATX hardware on far right is ATX power watchdog
    In the middle we have RaspberryPi compute module 4 on CM4 I/o board with various HDMI and USB plugged in
    USB3 daughterboard to the left of that.

    Couple of cables to create, will then test and configure power supply and accessory/ignition on response.

    A few PCB standoffs and case mods will be necessary.

    I am considering placing the unit behind the back seat where there is two spaces for a pair of 30 amp hour deep cycle batteries…currently there’s only a single battery in place.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Michelin PS5 - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - Corksport turbo manifold - HT 98 octane tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - Bespoke Raspberry Pi Android based GPS/Carplay and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold.

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    Default



    Most of the software hurdles solved. The large screen will be replaced with a small touchscreen on install.

    CarPlay on 7” touchscreen
    Vehicle user interface launcher visible on large display.

    Install will likely dedicate the 7” screen to an automotive android launcher and CarPlay / Navigation apps with a 5 to 6” portrait oriented touchscreen providing OBD metrics instrumentation temps pressures etc etc

    Still working on programming the power. I’d call this beta 1


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Michelin PS5 - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - Corksport turbo manifold - HT 98 octane tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - Bespoke Raspberry Pi Android based GPS/Carplay and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold.

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    Latest testing with intended install display hardware.

    Also testing pci devices for USB, nvme storage and audio.

    3 operating systems. Android by default (LineageOS) , ubuntu Linux for testing and developing hardware integration and apps for droid, and a backup mode that allows it to be backed up over a wireless network.

    The 5.5” portrait screen has a case that a pi4 can be built into. Could be practical for anyone who wants OBD data beyond an access port or a CarPlay type headunit that doesn’t need you to remove the OEM headunit.

    For me the cm4 pi goes in a router-like case and the pci devices will need 3d printed enclosures.

    7” screen above Center console in OEM enclosure, 5.5” to the right of driver near the aircon vent.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Michelin PS5 - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - Corksport turbo manifold - HT 98 octane tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - Bespoke Raspberry Pi Android based GPS/Carplay and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold.

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