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Thread: hi all

  1. Default hi all

    just put down the deposit for a leather pack 2005 mazda 6 mps black on black with a rebuilt motor. ads probably still on carsales check it out.

    anything i should know before getting stuck in, things to check and watch for???

  2. #2
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    Hi and welcome! I'm sure you'll enjoy.
    I believe with the MPS6 and BK MPS3 the main things to look out for regarding engine maintenance are the VVT mechanism - this was imnproved for the later model BL MPS3. If the engine has been rebuilt it really should have been done already. Generally the parts are upgraded to the BL MPS engine spec.
    I don't have any first hand experience with the 6 myself, but I recall rear differential mounts and rear drivetrain related vibration as being something to look out for.
    Are you thinking of modding?
    Last edited by Nexus; 18-08-2017 at 01:59 PM.
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Michelin PS5 - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - Corksport turbo manifold - HT 98 octane tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - Bespoke Raspberry Pi Android based GPS/Carplay and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold.

  3. Default

    Hi and welcome to the MPS family.

    Remember, your car will be 12 years old. Get a VERY thorough check of all the suspension points and the brakes. Control arms are high-load areas in the 3, so I'm guessing the 6 isn't too much different. Get them checked thoroughly. Also, engine mounts... upgrade if looking poorly.

  4. Default

    Suspension was my only concern as i bought the car sight unseen. Living in tassie makes it a bit difficult sourcing intresting cars. Although i havnt taken collection of the car yet i do know it needs new tyres. What does everyone recommend for the 6 and is it worth changing to rx8 wheels. I live on a nice bit of mountain road with tight corners so handlings important.


    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

  5. #5
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    My experience is on the 3's but if I recall correctly there aren't big differences in expectations for these things:

    If you're looking at suspension, I'd recommend superpro bushings. wheel bearings require a complete hub assembly replacement for some reason pressing a new bearing into existing assembly isn't viable. People have done it and then the bearing fails. My 3's rear wheel bearings managed 250,000K before I replaced and the fronts are still quiet and going strong at 273,000. Sway bar endlinks can get a bit noisy if they need tightening. I haven't had to replace mine yet.

    There's some adjustable camber kits around that you might want to consider. Cambers not adjustable without them.

    Re: Wheels - RX8 18x8+50 are a good fitment. 225/45 or 225/40 are good for them. I'd definitely test fit 235/40 to them myself. You may need to roll guards to get the 235/40 under them. Best common offsets to keep as close as possible to OEM geometry are +48 for 225's, and +45 for 235's. I run 225/45 at +48. 235/40 @ +50 (RX-8 wheels) might add some steering weight because inside track moves inwards. A lot of modders like more aggressive fitments, I'm very conservative myself and wouldn't go for offsets below +45. I run 225/45 at +48 offset because that keeps the inside track within 0.5mm of stock. For 235, the same alignment of the inside track needs a +43 offset but there isn't a great deal of room to go wider hence suggestion of +45 as lowest offset. Depends how adventurous you are and how much adjusting you are prepared to do for things like guard rolling and trimming plastic guard liner.

    You'll probably find some example fitments in the forums.

    Quote Originally Posted by andrewcl View Post
    Suspension was my only concern as i bought the car sight unseen. Living in tassie makes it a bit difficult sourcing intresting cars. Although i havnt taken collection of the car yet i do know it needs new tyres. What does everyone recommend for the 6 and is it worth changing to rx8 wheels. I live on a nice bit of mountain road with tight corners so handlings important.


    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Michelin PS5 - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - Corksport turbo manifold - HT 98 octane tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - Bespoke Raspberry Pi Android based GPS/Carplay and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold.

  6. Default

    Thsnks nexus
    It does seem to make a diffrence when jumping to a 225/40 for tyre choice. Ill see whats around as id hate to opt for an interim choice.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

  7. Default

    So i ended up getting dunlop sport gts for the car. Guess a wheel change will have to wait btw the tyres are incredible great turn in compared to the old non brand koreans that were on it. Great in the wet. Makes the brakes feel much tighter in the wet. But they are noisy. Only on rough asphalt. Next will have to be a tstat. And i ended up putting a rain sock on the cpe cai filter. Plus a plastic sheet to seal the wheel well holes. No wonder the last owner hydrolocked the engine. But i certanely think the car would benifit from a tune. Is ap the only answer? Atm as bought cpe cai, cpe top mount and cpe tip. Not sure on fuel pump need to work out a log on tourque to see where it sits. Do the fuel pumps make a noticable ticking? Upgraded or not.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrewcl View Post
    So i ended up getting dunlop sport gts for the car. Guess a wheel change will have to wait btw the tyres are incredible great turn in compared to the old non brand koreans that were on it. Great in the wet. Makes the brakes feel much tighter in the wet. But they are noisy. Only on rough asphalt. Next will have to be a tstat. And i ended up putting a rain sock on the cpe cai filter. Plus a plastic sheet to seal the wheel well holes. No wonder the last owner hydrolocked the engine. But i certanely think the car would benifit from a tune. Is ap the only answer? Atm as bought cpe cai, cpe top mount and cpe tip. Not sure on fuel pump need to work out a log on tourque to see where it sits. Do the fuel pumps make a noticable ticking? Upgraded or not.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
    There is a handful of tuning solutions available these days. AP is popular and common, but it has a few limitations compared to some of the other solutions. Versatune are a forum sponsor and provide a more capable tuning solution.
    Ticking can be injectors. I'm not sure about HPFP noise. They aren't the quietest of engines so I wouldn't be surprised, but I don't think so. I think ticking is usually injectors - or if it's especially loud it might be VVT mechanism or possibly clearances need to be checked and adjusted on valvetrain.
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Michelin PS5 - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - Corksport turbo manifold - HT 98 octane tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - Bespoke Raspberry Pi Android based GPS/Carplay and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold.

  9. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Nexus View Post
    There is a handful of tuning solutions available these days. AP is popular and common, but it has a few limitations compared to some of the other solutions. Versatune are a forum sponsor and provide a more capable tuning solution.
    Ticking can be injectors. I'm not sure about HPFP noise. They aren't the quietest of engines so I wouldn't be surprised, but I don't think so. I think ticking is usually injectors - or if it's especially loud it might be VVT mechanism or possibly clearances need to be checked and adjusted on valvetrain.
    Ill have a look when it comes to 5000k engine service.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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