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Thread: Hi All. Another Newbie

  1. #1

    Default Hi All. Another Newbie

    Hi everyone. Im starting my research into a 3 mpz and clearly this is a great place to start. Im probably limited to a gen 1 due to $$$ and Im on a steep learning curve.
    Anyone wishing to impart a little advice on what to look out for specifically reliability/problem areas on a gen 1.

    Also are the gen1 and gen2 worlds apart, enough so that I should save a bit longer to enable me to go for a later model?

    Thankyou all in advance! Cheers, Dog.

  2. Default

    Hi and welcome.

    Gen 1 to Gen 2, minor changes, wheel size is 0.5 inch wider (more common tyre size) and all the rest is cosmetic and computer control changes.

    Do you like the older look or the bonnet postbox look?
    You'll find that a Gen 1 has more age-related issues than the Gen 2. Engines are the same so what's starting to go on one, will start to go on another. Saying that, engine problems are few. Biggest gripes are engine mounts wearing prematurely (relatively cheap mod that many people have done), road noise (common in the wheelbase used for the mazda, focus and volvo) and in my case (Gen 1) some tie-rod end knocking that is a design issue. No biggie, just when you drive over bumps you get a slight clunk over time. Each service, I get them to tighten the bejeezus out of them (been told that's what you have to do) when on a rail-hoist (needs weight on the wheels to truly be tightened).

    Depending on your tastes, more integrated functionality (Bluetooth etc) in the Gen 2, Gen 1 gets an Aux point in the centre console, but that's it.

    Watch for smoke. Take a car for a test drive from cold. Start it up and let it idle for 5+ minutes, see if it smokes. Give it a drive, a few good hard jabs on the accelerator, etc etc, get it hot then let it idle after the run. If you get smoke in any of the situations (not just on hard acceleration, that's just the rich running of the car), turbo seals could be gone/going. Some people have this issue and need to replace them.

    Otherwise, they are a relatively strong and reliable car. Great daily driver and fun when you want to go for a squirt through some winding roads. Don't expect to be dragging people off at lights etc, they are quick, but unless you drive like a lunatic you won't be winning any awards. Definitely more fun for winding roads.

    Best of luck finding your future fun car!
    3 MPS - Rolling on Pirelli PZero Neros, sitting on Bilstein B12's, stock internals... still makes me smile with the Zoom Zoom.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Central Coast
    Posts
    174

    Default

    Welcome, gen 2 also has an upgraded vvt that removes a premature wear issue and the ecu is also upgraded on the BL.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

  4. #4

    Default

    Thankyou both for the wisdom. Its appreciated.
    The vvt issue mentioned.....is that the startup clatter for a second or two Ive read about? If the motor has that clatter, is it detrimental or a time bomb of any sort? Also what does the fix cost?

    So much to learn still.
    Is a HPFP required for reliability issues, or just performance? Can they run comfortably on anything less than 98 octane?
    Sheesh.....I need a direct line to someone who has been there and done it!!!

  5. #5

    Default

    Welcome
    Gen 2 also has taller gearing. Vvt is definitely a time-bomb. If the chain snaps, the rods get to come out and play. I think it's a couple of grand to fix, cheaper if you can get someone on here to help out.
    Hpfp is needed if you do any mods. It's ok stock, but as soon as you increase flow (intake exhaust etc) you risk it failing which can grenade the motor. Fuel- use 98. You could get away with 95 but you will damage performance and maybe add some risk without saving much money.
    Good luck with the search

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
    Fast: RayD Tune|COBB AP|JBR|Stratified|CP-e|Xforce|Autotech|Denso|Corksport
    Turn: Bilstein|Eibach|Whiteline|JBR|Hankook RS3
    Stop: Wilwood 4pots|Custom lines|DBA T3|Remsa|TRW 600
    Rice: JL|Alpine|Focal|MiniDSP|Rota g-force|2XS|Cree|Celestial Blue FTW!

  6. #6

    Default

    I just want to make sure I understand this right Lachlan.....if I do 'either' intake 'or' exhaust the fuel pump is needed? Is that correct?
    Are we talking cat back or are we talking dump pipe back?
    Im considering pretty mild stuff so it stays reliable, so maybe cat back for a bit of a note. Im sure the mod bug will bite hard
    I may not be able to help myself!
    Then again, I might buy one with mods already done!

  7. Default

    To make the best of any mods on these beasts you really need a chip/flash to maximise it. The computer will otherwise just scale things and no performance will really be had.

    If you mod/chip, you'll need that hpfp to keep it fed nicely.

    My car engine is still stock, original Gen1 from 2006. I drive it daily and often not in the power-hungry range. I have no issues with it really. I have upgraded suspension, also want to upgrade brakes. Definitely good mods to do.

  8. #8

    Default

    Catback is fine as it doesn't affect flow in any significant way. Correct, with a downpipe/racepipe OR intake it's a good idea to upgrade hpfp. This is true regardless of whether you tune. The stock tune can still demand too much fuel for the pump and a new tune will definitely need it as Dr. Teeth said. It's a pretty cheap mod for piece of mind and it open up lots of options

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
    Fast: RayD Tune|COBB AP|JBR|Stratified|CP-e|Xforce|Autotech|Denso|Corksport
    Turn: Bilstein|Eibach|Whiteline|JBR|Hankook RS3
    Stop: Wilwood 4pots|Custom lines|DBA T3|Remsa|TRW 600
    Rice: JL|Alpine|Focal|MiniDSP|Rota g-force|2XS|Cree|Celestial Blue FTW!

  9. #9

    Default

    Thankyou gents :-)

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