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Thread: Hi from Sydney

  1. #21

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    What's with that afr on the E85 tune? Looks like a huge difference. Is the only change 2* timing? Same road and temps?

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    9,459

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lachlan View Post
    What's with that afr on the E85 tune? Looks like a huge difference. Is the only change 2* timing? Same road and temps?

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
    Shit, good pick up, I'm amazed he didn't blow his engine...
    @MARKMPS6 did you change fuel and injector scalars???
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  3. Default

    Thanks for the pick up. Lucky the engine still going. My injector scalar is set at 1. Should I increase it when running E85?

  4. #24

    Default

    Absolutely do. You definitely want to monitor closely if you are making changes to fuel or tune. Maybe only run 25-30% E85 to start. Get your feeling (AFR, LTFT etc) sorted first, then start gradually increasing timing at particular rev ranges, rather than blanket changes. That way you will pick up issues (like missing your afr targets) before they become dangerous.

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    9,459

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    Quote Originally Posted by MARKMPS6 View Post
    Thanks for the pick up. Lucky the engine still going. My injector scalar is set at 1. Should I increase it when running E85?
    Do not go full throttle again until you fix your tune!!!

    This thread has the scalars/fuel specific gravity you need to start fixing your tune: http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru....php?p=1213646

    Also with 50/50, watch your injector duty cycles, if they start going over 100% you could get break up...
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  6. Default

    very good info thanks, lucky I joined this forum..... Thanks again.

  7. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SarcasticOne View Post
    Do not go full throttle again until you fix your tune!!!

    This thread has the scalars/fuel specific gravity you need to start fixing your tune: Fuel mix cheat sheets - Mazdaspeed Forums

    Also with 50/50, watch your injector duty cycles, if they start going over 100% you could get break up...

    Thanks again with the help much appreciated. My AP IDC is reading at 0.89 is that 89% so 1.00 is 100%?

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    9,459

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MARKMPS6 View Post
    Thanks again with the help much appreciated. My AP IDC is reading at 0.89 is that 89% so 1.00 is 100%?
    .89 is 0.89%, guessing this was at idle/cruise?
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  9. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SarcasticOne View Post
    .89 is 0.89%, guessing this was at idle/cruise?
    Just found that 1.47 in AP is 100% IDC therefore 0.89 is 60.5% IDC. I had one log where the IDC read 1.2 which worried me but if the weird AP calculation is right then my IDC max is only 81.63%. Happy with the tune now. AFR is where it should be, boost is steady, zero KR, LTFT is at -0.16% consistently and good power using 98 ron. I still need to tune for E85 (coming soon). Thanks for your help....

    My in tank fuel pump just died. OEM from Mazda is so expensive (must be gold plated). I have a spare pump in my garage (walbro 255 and Denso) thinking of fitting the Denso. Still waiting for a nylon flex line from a supplier. hopefully it works.

  10. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SarcasticOne View Post
    You using VVT at all?

    Also, spool is helped by reducing timing... And 100% e85 requires changes to oil and certain additives in hpfp else it'll gunk up your fuel system, but you'll run out of fuel ~240-250wkw, so running a mix (50/50 at most) is generally considered better
    Your right notice my fuel pressure is dropping at 4000 rpm to 1400 psi then recovers back to 1800 at 5000 rpm. pulled out the spill valve and it was coated with black looks like carbon. Cleaned it and reinstall. Had to finish my tank of 50/50 then I will pull the whole fuel pump and give it a buff. Just worried of my injectors. Hopefully they are okay. Found nulon oil that is E85 suitable, what oil are you using and what additive should I add if running E 85.

  11. #31

    Default

    Hey all.

    Had car now nearly 3 months. Loving it. Still learning. I don't know if it feels slower or I'm getting use to it. Anyone I can see to check how it was originally tuned? honestly haven't sussed the AP yet.

    Otherwise, loving the car. torque steer gets me now and then but no issue now.

    THanks

  12. Default

    Welcome,

    Get an AP. What are your mods? There are people here that can help.

    Cheers

  13. #33

    Default

    Looks to be aftermarket intercooler, exhaust and Cobb intake. (anyone know where I can get a cover for it?) I don't know how Car dealer got RWC.
    Car making a squeeling noise now when turning, more apparent if foot on pedal. anyone know any good mechanic in Sydney to look at it? ontop of that, to maybe get this tuned again as I suspect this was first set up for 85. as I've lost performance, I think.

    top end fairly light.

  14. #34

    Default New to the scene

    Hi all,
    New member from Sydney here, I have just bought a 2005 Mazda 6 MPS 120,000 klm but in good condition, pretty much stock except for a cd/dvd, bluetooth, reverse camera head unit and i think it has been lowered. Love the car as its the first nice car i have owned lol, i have always have had work utes due to my occupation.

    I have never done any mechanical work on cars but have always been interested in learning so i am going to try to do a bit on my MPS and its the only way i am going to be able to afford any upgrades anyway.

    I am interested if anyone has any hints/tips on where i should start and where to get parts. I want to get it tuned first and dont know weather to fork out the $$$ and just go to MPS garage/tunehouse or get a cobb accessport or something similar. I would also like to buy a new exhaust and i have heard that the cat backs are the easiest to install but turbo back and dump pipes would be better..... its all a mystery to me hahah. I have also heard that i should get a short ram intake with air box as the cold intakes have issues in wet weather....... anyways any ideas from you guys would be greatly appricated

  15. Default

    Not MPS garage. stay away......
    Get an AP direct from COBB.
    Other places you could get parts from are Cork Sport, CPE, Street Units and so on.
    I wouldn't worry so much about cat back only if you have extra cash and is chasing high power output. DP and a high flow cat yes....
    A CIA is nice also get a rear engine mount. There are some good tuners on this forum, get InTouch with them.

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