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Thread: Aquamist HFS4 WMI install MPS3 gen1/2

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    Default Aquamist HFS4 WMI install MPS3 gen1/2

    Aquamist HFS4 V3 DI installation set up and tips!

    This kit is pretty full on to say the least! Everything you need to make this kit work is included however there will be a few trips to your local SCA store for extras so you get a neat install job that presents well! Depending on how you wish to arrange this kit will be a deciding factor on what extra purchases you will need to make.
    You will need to be confident with using soldering equipment on fine printed board and reading factory wiring diagrames.

    Im going to give this task an 8/10 for difficulty and potential to cost alot of money if you get it wrong :/

    (will edit kit pic here)

    Getting started!

    Read through the instruction manual from start to finish you may not know is going on but I will try to explain as we go on!, check the parts kit is complete and plan out how you want the kit arranged for your car! This step is prob worth thinking about alot as the kit can have 2 main layouts which will both have pros and cons.

    The kit is set up ready for trunk mounting the tank and pump and that is preferred by the manufacturer however the pump can be mounted in prefered engine bay location with recommended sealing of the gland which the wires pass through on the pump itself.

    (edit pic of pump gland here)

    In this install I have decided to hide the pump high in the LH cavity behind the head light, reason being I personally dont like running long lengths of larger gauge positive wiring along the chassis and prefer to keep the larger amperage circuit as short as possible and close to the battery. This calls for the kits trunk (blue) harness to be cut and shut and the relay/fuse assmbly to be kept away from the weather (next to all the other relays sounds like a great place for another relay!)

    (edit pic of pump mounting here)
    (edit pic of relay mounting here)
    (edit pic of trunk harness cut/shut here)


    The 5L tank/level sensor is trunk mounted, the WMI line and level sensor wiring in this case are covered with 8mm split tubing for protection and run from the trunk, under the scuff panels, through a neatly drilled hole in what would be a blocking plug for LHD cars (behind the glove box) and out to the relays new location which has the level sensor connector on it. This leaves only the tank and connections on the tank for possible leak sources in the cabin and all other WMI lines/connections are external.
    *take note!!! when lenghtening the level sensor harness with the excess offcut (4 core wire) you will only need to use 2 of those wires, dont get confused with the colour code and make sure you check the level sensor function (on-off) using a multimeter on the continuity or diode setting*

    (edit pic of trunk mounted tank here)
    (edit pic of cut shut here)
    (edit pic of multimeter test here)
    (edit pic of missing glove box here)

    The WMI module will need to be preferably mounted in the glovebox, I used 13mm split tubing to cover the remaining Red, yellow, grey and green harnesses which head out to the engine bay through the same hole as the trunk/wmi line.
    (dont forget to resolder the cut and shut (blue) harness!
    *take note! this (4 core) harness is colour coded and the wires must match!*

    (edit pic of wmi module here)
    (edit pic of harness bundle here)

    The gauge mounting location is up to you but you will need a pod! The black harness is plug and play, you might choose to run the WMI module power supply harnes over to the drivers side to ignition and light switch with the gauge harness, there is sneaky track above the radio across from the glove box side to the steering column area I stole my power sources from the fuse box (cig) and glove box light (dont know why but it works), there is also a nice earth point just behing the fuse box.

    (edit pic of gauge mounting here)

    The FAV or "fast acting valve" should be mounted close to the nozzle injection point, this will depend on your intake system. I dont think this needs much discussion other than the WMI module mapping is set to run 2 nozzles, so stick to the instructions for this.

    At this point it's a good time to dissconnect and remove the battery (if you haven't aleardy!) also remove all harnesses from WMI module. It's time for some in depth PCM wiring to go ahead with!
    Below is the wiring diagram link, it shows the PCM pinouts the HFS4 needs to linked into for both gen1 and gen 2 3MPS's, i will also add the PCM connector backside view to help you identify which wires are located where, this pic will be the same for both gen's but please ref to your model as the wire colours are different between both gen's. I highly suggest you use a multimeter to confirm that you have the correct circuit for each of the joins you will need to make! Take your time!

    In addition to the above wiring there is an AUX fail safe that can also be used, I have decided to use BAT (boost air temp) as another source to flag a failsafe (low boost) condition, this is pinout 2N of the PCM. (This AUXFS will need to be enabled, I will cover this in the WMI module set up)

    Mazdaspeed 3 - waterinjection.info

    (edit pcm connector pics here )

    Setting up the WMI module for the MPS!!!
    There are going to be some items to consider here, from what reading I have done these modules seem to be available preset for your application apon order??? or come with a generic defaults which we will need to tweak, these factors include MAP sensor being used ie; 2bar or 3bar, IDC amplifiers for DI, AUXFS options ie; BAT or WBo2 and lastly the flow of WMI required.

    You will need some soldering skills here to avoid major cost, you may want to get a small electonics place to do this for you or buy fine soldering equip.

    In the above link you should see the diagram for further configuration (view of the underside of board), you will have to do item 5, you will also have to change item 6 depending on which MAP sensor you have ie; if you have 2.5bar map you need to cut the track from "A" and solder across "2", for a 3.5bar map you will need to cut track "A" and solder across "3", use a multimeter to make sure you have no shorts to surrounding terminals and have continuity across the desired pads! This goes for all of your solder links!

    (edit pics here)

    To enable the "AUXFS" for use with 5v BAT sensor you will need to cut track "E" and solder across to pad "A". This step is optional.

    (edit pic here)

    You will also need to solder pad "F" to the pad below it. ( if you solder the "W" this will trip fail safe when the "water level" LED is set off, "F" is to trigger the failsafe based on the above AUXFS input selection.) You will need to turn the AUXFS "trimmer" to adjust the point at which the "BAT" sets off "AUXFS"! ) I think I turned the dial fully clockwise to stop it being triggered while doing the intial system purges and tests.

    Refer to page 13 for trimmer adjustments.

    (edit pic here)

    The HFS4 is defualt set to run 2 WMI nozzles flowing within the "flow range chart" for "MAP 2" , there is a jet size calculation chart on page 8 of the supplied manual, once you have selected the jet size for your application you will need to select the flow restrictor size (3 sizes supplied, 4 ranges available) depending on the total flow of both jets. Ref to page 8 again for that info and talk to your tuner aswell. If the 2 nozzle arrangment isnt suitable for your application you will need to follow steps on page 22 of your manual but it appears the default map2 is very broad and should cover most applications. If you need more "flow" (extra nozzles) you will need to solder between pads 2 and 3.

    (edit pic of 123 pad here)

    This should complete the HFS4's module set up, but there is still more primary steps! Follow instructions from page 11 "power up procedure" through to page 12. (page 10 has a good view of the circuit board features while page 14 has more in depth description of the "jumper links" you will need to know this. Read pages 16 and 17 to understand the guage features especially while you are playing with the jumper links "DHB" (disable high boost) and "DFS" (disable fail safe)

    As this car goes through its tuning processes I will update further as I get the info from the owner, so please stop by over the next few weeks!



    I will keep working on this post tomorrow night, please do not reply to thread until i have finished!!!
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    Last edited by SarcasticOne; 16-12-2015 at 08:13 PM.
    Every man should have a V8 ute.....with a Chev badge.....and a Southern Cross sticker! Mods? What mods?

  2. #2

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    I read it lol. Great work so far looking forward to it being completed

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