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Thread: COBB Accessport vs. Dyno tune

  1. #21

    Default

    Dyno vs etune, I reckon its what your comfortable putting your car through and your lifestyle.

    My experience is loaded COBB stage 2 tune on AP at HPF when I got COBB stuff on. Got marginal gains etc. Continued to custom dyno tune as more and more bits were added (prob about another 6 hours on dyno). I have ended up now with a two custom tunes, one running my e85 tune (237kw) and my custom 98 tune (222kw). I know an etune can get more out of it (HPF said I could get another 20kw easy, but I would need to sign a waiver as by their policy), but as a daily FWD car, it wheel spins enough on $600 tires (2 lol) and I have no access to straight, non pot holed roads to do 170km WOT runs. I trust etuners, but I don't fulfill the requirements. I also requested they completely reverse the tune of the k04 setup I had (I am running the corksport turbo) so the torque is made at very high rpms (4.5K and over - it has what I dub, vtec on meth) and is much kinder to the rods. On my daily drive, I never see more than 17psi and on WOT over 4.5, it hits 21 and keeps pulling with LESS torque than my k04. Yeah it doesn't have that violent pull of the k04 on stomp which destroyed my tires and ego, but boy up top it is fun and it just keeps making power till well past redline. Also, I can drive it fairly sensibly and see good fuel use (got 500km on trip computer from a tank of eblend).

    I think you need to assess your road conditions and your life style. Do you care about huge power? Yes? Go and etune as they ring the shit out of your car and generally have a few more tricks up their sleeve with their experience of load tuning. Do you care about money? Yes, get and etune as it is good value. Do you care about time? Yes, get a dyno tune, as etunes can take weeks to months depending on tuner. Do you like talking to real people and get the piece of mind of knowing your car is in a controlled environment, Yes? Get a dyno tune as they have a reputation with local people. HPF blow your engine? Not on their watch, where as a yank tuner has no real care in the end over your engine life as long as you paid for your tune. No saying they don't care as they are great people, but in the end and etune, is a long distance relationship.

    But out of anything, whether your go dyno OR etune, get an AccessPort. It should be your first mod always. It is so much more than a bunch or gauges. I had the cash, so I got both an AP and a dyno tune. Will I get an etune? Probably not as I might build it one day and just keep going dyno to squeeze more out of it and ride HP's waiver policy, but in the end, its a FWD and they are ****ing useless from the standstill. People are pulling 13.5's out of build motors and that is laughable. Put 300kw into an AWD or RWD with similar weight and you will pull 11-12's. I fail to see why we need huge power numbers on these cars, but each to their own.

    Get and AP first and weight up your lifestyle, cash flow and what you really want out of your car. I have a mate with a 6 mps, stock block and he is currently trying to squeeze 400-440 AWhp out of it, and well, that's just a grenade, no matter the tune. 1 guy from America with a 3 has had luck with that, and I frankly don't believe his vdyno numbers.

    To be honest though, i am definitely no pro and I got helped by a few guys like SarcasticOne and Lachlan who gave me great advice with no bull. Cheers again fellas

    East side cruise soon?
    Last edited by nas711; 15-07-2015 at 08:34 PM.
    2010 Gen 2 - "SPOOOL" (VIC) - Fully bolted

    CORKSPORT TURBO | COBB AP3 | COBB DOWNPIPE | COBB REM | AUTOTECH HPFP | CORK SPORT 3" PS MAF INTAKE | COBB SF AB | CPE TMIC | CPE HEADERS | COBB 3 PORT EBCS | 3 BAR MAP| PEDDERS COILOVERS | DBA T4 SLOTTED ROTORS | CORKSPORT EYELIDS| FORGE V1 BPV| | MAGNAFLOW CUSTOM | VELOCITY RED | PEARL 2PAC STOCK RIMS | DUAL TUNED BY HPF ON E30

  2. #22
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    58
    Posts
    295

    Default

    Why not both? I have VersaTune. Stratified e-tuned me on a local dyno. All the expertise, all the safety, all the repeatability and the ability to log and tune and swap between tunes.

  3. Default

    A great read,
    Thanks heaps for that

    Definitely keen on an Eastside Cruise soon!

    I'm fitting a WRX STi Front lip this weekend, so i'm keen to take it out for a spin

  4. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ozynigma View Post
    Why not both? I have VersaTune. Stratified e-tuned me on a local dyno. All the expertise, all the safety, all the repeatability and the ability to log and tune and swap between tunes.
    Money prevents me from doing both

    Looking at the best and most cost effective way of doing it, as well as the safest with a balance of performance

  5. #25

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nas711 View Post
    Dyno vs etune, I reckon its what your comfortable putting your car through and your lifestyle.

    My experience is loaded COBB stage 2 tune on AP at HPF when I got COBB stuff on. Got marginal gains etc. Continued to custom dyno tune as more and more bits were added (prob about another 6 hours on dyno). I have ended up now with a two custom tunes, one running my e85 tune (237kw) and my custom 98 tune (222kw). I know an etune can get more out of it (HPF said I could get another 20kw easy, but I would need to sign a waiver as by their policy), but as a daily FWD car, it wheel spins enough on $600 tires (2 lol) and I have no access to straight, non pot holed roads to do 170km WOT runs. I trust etuners, but I don't fulfill the requirements. I also requested they completely reverse the tune of the k04 setup I had (I am running the corksport turbo) so the torque is made at very high rpms (4.5K and over - it has what I dub, vtec on meth) and is much kinder to the rods. On my daily drive, I never see more than 17psi and on WOT over 4.5, it hits 21 and keeps pulling with LESS torque than my k04. Yeah it doesn't have that violent pull of the k04 on stomp which destroyed my tires and ego, but boy up top it is fun and it just keeps making power till well past redline. Also, I can drive it fairly sensibly and see good fuel use (got 500km on trip computer from a tank of eblend).

    I think you need to assess your road conditions and your life style. Do you care about huge power? Yes? Go and etune as they ring the shit out of your car and generally have a few more tricks up their sleeve with their experience of load tuning. Do you care about money? Yes, get and etune as it is good value. Do you care about time? Yes, get a dyno tune, as etunes can take weeks to months depending on tuner. Do you like talking to real people and get the piece of mind of knowing your car is in a controlled environment, Yes? Get a dyno tune as they have a reputation with local people. HPF blow your engine? Not on their watch, where as a yank tuner has no real care in the end over your engine life as long as you paid for your tune. No saying they don't care as they are great people, but in the end and etune, is a long distance relationship.

    But out of anything, whether your go dyno OR etune, get an AccessPort. It should be your first mod always. It is so much more than a bunch or gauges. I had the cash, so I got both an AP and a dyno tune. Will I get an etune? Probably not as I might build it one day and just keep going dyno to squeeze more out of it and ride HP's waiver policy, but in the end, its a FWD and they are ****ing useless from the standstill. People are pulling 13.5's out of build motors and that is laughable. Put 300kw into an AWD or RWD with similar weight and you will pull 11-12's. I fail to see why we need huge power numbers on these cars, but each to their own.

    Get and AP first and weight up your lifestyle, cash flow and what you really want out of your car. I have a mate with a 6 mps, stock block and he is currently trying to squeeze 400-440 AWhp out of it, and well, that's just a grenade, no matter the tune. 1 guy from America with a 3 has had luck with that, and I frankly don't believe his vdyno numbers.

    To be honest though, i am definitely no pro and I got helped by a few guys like SarcasticOne and Lachlan who gave me great advice with no bull. Cheers again fellas

    East side cruise soon?
    Someone thinks I know shit. Lol

    Agree with most of this, except the bit about the accountability. If a local tuner blows up an engine you might be able to sue them or something, but in the end they will still have more walk ins to keep up business (particularly if they aren't Mazda specific). If an etuner, whose business is based online and hangs on their online reputation starts blowing up engines it will hit forums, facebook etc and will hurt them directly. My personal experience with Ray was that he noticed all the little things to keep my car safe, while at the same time i'v had brick and mortar shops (not tuning, but still relevant) put an angle grinder through my whiteline RSB or give no ****s about parts I bought that fell apart. I don't think one is really inherently more trustworthy than the other.

    Oh...and your other stuff about fwd...but POWAH!!! So jealous of that turbo haha
    Fast: RayD Tune|COBB AP|JBR|Stratified|CP-e|Xforce|Autotech|Denso|Corksport
    Turn: Bilstein|Eibach|Whiteline|JBR|Hankook RS3
    Stop: Wilwood 4pots|Custom lines|DBA T3|Remsa|TRW 600
    Rice: JL|Alpine|Focal|MiniDSP|Rota g-force|2XS|Cree|Celestial Blue FTW!

  6. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nas711 View Post
    Dyno vs etune, I reckon its what your comfortable putting your car through and your lifestyle.

    My experience is loaded COBB stage 2 tune on AP at HPF when I got COBB stuff on. Got marginal gains etc. Continued to custom dyno tune as more and more bits were added (prob about another 6 hours on dyno). I have ended up now with a two custom tunes, one running my e85 tune (237kw) and my custom 98 tune (222kw). I know an etune can get more out of it (HPF said I could get another 20kw easy, but I would need to sign a waiver as by their policy), but as a daily FWD car, it wheel spins enough on $600 tires (2 lol) and I have no access to straight, non pot holed roads to do 170km WOT runs. I trust etuners, but I don't fulfill the requirements. I also requested they completely reverse the tune of the k04 setup I had (I am running the corksport turbo) so the torque is made at very high rpms (4.5K and over - it has what I dub, vtec on meth) and is much kinder to the rods. On my daily drive, I never see more than 17psi and on WOT over 4.5, it hits 21 and keeps pulling with LESS torque than my k04. Yeah it doesn't have that violent pull of the k04 on stomp which destroyed my tires and ego, but boy up top it is fun and it just keeps making power till well past redline. Also, I can drive it fairly sensibly and see good fuel use (got 500km on trip computer from a tank of eblend).

    I think you need to assess your road conditions and your life style. Do you care about huge power? Yes? Go and etune as they ring the shit out of your car and generally have a few more tricks up their sleeve with their experience of load tuning. Do you care about money? Yes, get and etune as it is good value. Do you care about time? Yes, get a dyno tune, as etunes can take weeks to months depending on tuner. Do you like talking to real people and get the piece of mind of knowing your car is in a controlled environment, Yes? Get a dyno tune as they have a reputation with local people. HPF blow your engine? Not on their watch, where as a yank tuner has no real care in the end over your engine life as long as you paid for your tune. No saying they don't care as they are great people, but in the end and etune, is a long distance relationship.

    But out of anything, whether your go dyno OR etune, get an AccessPort. It should be your first mod always. It is so much more than a bunch or gauges. I had the cash, so I got both an AP and a dyno tune. Will I get an etune? Probably not as I might build it one day and just keep going dyno to squeeze more out of it and ride HP's waiver policy, but in the end, its a FWD and they are ****ing useless from the standstill. People are pulling 13.5's out of build motors and that is laughable. Put 300kw into an AWD or RWD with similar weight and you will pull 11-12's. I fail to see why we need huge power numbers on these cars, but each to their own.

    Get and AP first and weight up your lifestyle, cash flow and what you really want out of your car. I have a mate with a 6 mps, stock block and he is currently trying to squeeze 400-440 AWhp out of it, and well, that's just a grenade, no matter the tune. 1 guy from America with a 3 has had luck with that, and I frankly don't believe his vdyno numbers.

    To be honest though, i am definitely no pro and I got helped by a few guys like SarcasticOne and Lachlan who gave me great advice with no bull. Cheers again fellas

    East side cruise soon?

    wait, 500km to a tank??

    I'm lucky to get 300 at the moment and my car is completely stock? Running on BP ultimate obviously..

    How big of an improvement will an OTS AP tune + intake mods(Cobb Sf intake and inlet piping) do for me?

  7. #27

    Default

    @nas711 like the computer told you 'you have 500km left of fuel' when you filled up, or you actually got 500km on the odometer between fill ups?

  8. Default

    As we kinda have the same car but I'm running ots stage 1 98 tune runs alright a pulls when it needs too, runs a bit rich at times but I get around 400ish kms to a tank but I don't drive it easy haha.

  9. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wingrove View Post
    As we kinda have the same car but I'm running ots stage 1 98 tune runs alright a pulls when it needs too, runs a bit rich at times but I get around 400ish kms to a tank but I don't drive it easy haha.
    Oh you have an accessport? So you went stage 1 OTS off the AP?

    Have you got intake etc as well?

  10. Default

    Yeah went 98 stage 1 just the basic one up from stock

    I do have one but not installed Cobb tip/sri just kinda saving and waiting then will do the HPFP at the same time


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. Default

    Ahh yeah

    How come HPFP? Have you done exhaust mods ?

  12. Default

    Ahh just you have to remove the intake anyway to get to the pump, then I won't have to worry about it if I want to do more


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  13. Default

    That's a good idea.

    How much did The HPFP set you back and where from?

  14. Default

    Haven't got one yet, but probably from either hpf or wolf racing or somewhere there expensive only reason I'm holding off on it

  15. Default

    I actually work as a parts interpreter at Logicar in Vermont and we specialize in fuel pumps/Engine Management(sensory etc) etc

    I'll see if i can source one cheaper and i'll let you know if i do.

    I think i might make a lot of people on here happy if i can find a cheaper option.

    edit: by cheaper, i don't mean worse
    Last edited by stockholm; 16-07-2015 at 01:50 PM.

  16. #36

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by stockholm View Post
    I actually work as a parts interpreter at Logicar in Vermont and we specialize in fuel pumps/Engine Management(sensory etc) etc

    I'll see if i can source one cheaper and i'll let you know if i do.

    I think i might make a lot of people on here happy if i can find a cheaper option.

    edit: by cheaper, i don't mean worse
    Interesting...but are you talking cam driven HPFP or in-tank pumps? Find something e85 rated and you would
    Fast: RayD Tune|COBB AP|JBR|Stratified|CP-e|Xforce|Autotech|Denso|Corksport
    Turn: Bilstein|Eibach|Whiteline|JBR|Hankook RS3
    Stop: Wilwood 4pots|Custom lines|DBA T3|Remsa|TRW 600
    Rice: JL|Alpine|Focal|MiniDSP|Rota g-force|2XS|Cree|Celestial Blue FTW!

  17. #37
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Central Coast
    Posts
    174

    Default

    Just remember that what's being talked about is an upgrade of the fuel pump internals, ie piston and cylinder... If you're going to find alternative parts, they'll have to meet the specifications of the upgraded parts, not original. Alternatively, a complete replacement pump that meets the output of a pump with upgraded internals. I hope this helps guide your search 😊

  18. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lachlan View Post
    Interesting...but are you talking cam driven HPFP or in-tank pumps? Find something e85 rated and you would
    In terms of in-tank pumps, we have e85 rated 400lph

    The engine bay HPFP are what i'll have to look into. We sell replacement ones, but a performance upgrade for the MPS is something i'll have to check with our suppliers about

  19. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MPS00M View Post
    Just remember that what's being talked about is an upgrade of the fuel pump internals, ie piston and cylinder... If you're going to find alternative parts, they'll have to meet the specifications of the upgraded parts, not original. Alternatively, a complete replacement pump that meets the output of a pump with upgraded internals. I hope this helps guide your search 

    Yeah i know. I'm going to have to do a bit of digging and see if i can get same spec HPFP internals from a supplier or if anyone in aus actually makes the internals on their own

  20. #40
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    9,459

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lachlan View Post
    Interesting...but are you talking cam driven HPFP or in-tank pumps? Find something e85 rated and you would
    IE internals seem to work...

    They're almost $500 USD though
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

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