How much power before reliability becomes an issue?

[ImpStout]

Hi All, I've been looking at buying a MPS for a few months now and i'm stuck with some severe decision paralysis.

On one had there is a nice standard MPS (2007) with 55K's on it (the sensible option)

On the other hand there is a modified one (2006 sport) making 220kw with ~115K's on it (It looks like it may have had some spirited driving haha)

Both are similar price.

I would like to get the modified one but i'm concerned it is destined to grenade in the near future.

I have searched for relevant topics and the engine failure thread and the best hint i could find is 330 wheel hp and you start running into trouble but otherwise engine failure seems to be rather sporadic.

Can anyone clarify this for me further?
*bonus points for stating which you would buy.

Cheers

[stockholm]

Hi All, I've been looking at buying a MPS for a few months now and i'm stuck with some severe decision paralysis.

On one had there is a nice standard MPS (2007) with 55K's on it (the sensible option)

On the other hand there is a modified one (2006 sport) making 220kw with ~115K's on it (It looks like it may have had some spirited driving haha)

Both are similar price.

I would like to get the modified one but i'm concerned it is destined to grenade in the near future.

I have searched for relevant topics and the engine failure thread and the best hint i could find is 330 wheel hp and you start running into trouble but otherwise engine failure seems to be rather sporadic.

Can anyone clarify this for me further?
*bonus points for stating which you would buy.

Cheers

When buying cars, i personally prefer doing all mods myself so i know they're done properly and i know exactly what has gone into it.

So obviously i'd go for the 55k, one

[Lachlan]

It all depends on how you mod really. You can blow it up with just an intake and stock power with a bad tune and no HPFP. Do you know what was done on the 220kw car and by whom?
Keeping torque under 475-500 nm is more important than the actual power output for rod safety.
Have you looked at the for sale on here? There are a few good cars with known histories. Don't know what your budget is, but if you want power this would be a good base http://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18808

[ImpStout]

Budget is around 16K so the 2012 is out the question, thanks for the suggestion though. I have scoured the forum for info on the car; It appears to be Raymond's old car if anyone remembers it?

http://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/dyno-...en-1-3mps.html

So its been running 222kw/400nm since late 2011.

Any opinions?

[Reedy]

Get the unmodified one for sure. Modded ones have usually been ruined*




*Says a guy with a modified car

[SarcasticOne]

+1 to the low km unmodified one
Unless it has a shit service history... Then run away...

Can't comment much on the owner, hasn't kept the forums up to date much... But a sensible torque limit and paying attention to when/how you go WOT pays a big role in how happy the engine will be

It's an extreme example, but there's a car in the states with 550whp (~400wkw) on stock block for 2 years...

[ImpStout]

Ok so i'm getting a strong vibe for the low Km option. Checked carsales today and they have jacked 2 grand on to the price of it, I'm not having any luck here.

But a sensible torque limit and paying attention to when/how you go WOT pays a big role in how happy the engine will be

Forgive me for being a noob but i'm not familiar with the acronym WOT, unless you're british; you wot mate?

[Reedy]

Stands for Wide Open Throttle. But your interpretation is heaps better imo.

[ozynigma]

Ok so i'm getting a strong vibe for the low Km option. Checked carsales today and they have jacked 2 grand on to the price of it, I'm not having any luck here.

Dealer or private? If a dealer you know you can knock a couple of grand off in the first round of negotiations. Remember dealers don't like second hand turbo cars, too risky for warranty claims.

[ImpStout]

Its a dealer, my previously negotiated price was 14.5K for a stock as a rock 2007 MPS, 55K's, log books, including freight from Vic to Brisbane. Was hoping to knock him down just a little bit more but considering they've just jacked it up to 17K i'm not so sure?

Also if I get it for 14.5K i'm almost certainly going to wax a few thousand on modifying it, so how does that compare to a highly modded one for 15.5K?

[SarcasticOne]

Get a compression test on both, whichever has healthier engine, get that!

[Lachlan]

Comp (and preferably leakdown) test is a good idea. Also, if you have any interest in modding, you probably want to do the stuff yourself for your own learning (and piece of mind).

[ImpStout]

What are the chances. Called up a Mobile mechanic in the area to do a compression test on the modded MPS and he said he had just put a second hand gearbox in a MPS the other day because 3rd was busted. Long story short we figured out it was the same car.

Said the engine ran well and the things that needed attention were a gearbox mount, front brakes were shagged and front CV boots were leaking. I feel like a detective!

So an independent mechanic said the engine was "healthy", is that enough of an endorsement or should I get him to do a compression test?

Any ideas on the particular mount / what its repair cost might be?

[Lachlan]

Which car was that? Guess you can make a lower offer as you will have to fix the vcv joints etc. Brakes (I assume just pads and rotors) can be replaced easily for a couple of hundred $ and CV is a common failure but not sure on price. You can probably get a stock transmission mount on here, or an aftermarket one fairly cheap.

Replacing the gearbox makes me nervous though. These cars have very strong gearboxes and rarely fail (although maybe this was an just unlucky or a result of the busted transmission mount) which makes me think maybe it was driven hard and without much care. If this is the 55km one and brakes, CV and trans mount are gone that quickly it would suggest track work or serious flogging. As such, I'd still get the engine tested in case it was abused (like WOT when cold or low RPM).

[ImpStout]

It was the modded one. CV's, gearbox and the extensive mod list lead me to believe its had a good flogging. My inner bogan wants me to disregard all of these red flags and buy it because the going fast thing appeals to me even though i will drive it like a nanna.

Would you just replace the whole CV joints for the ones that are leaking or just find new CV boots for them?

[shaneski]

If it had a ****ed gearbox and the CVs etc are shagged it has had a very hard life. Maybe the only reason the engine is in one peice is because the gearbox blew up before the engine had a chance to let go then decided to sell the car.

[SarcasticOne]

I've seen people put 500+whp through these gearboxes without destroying them... I'd say get the low km one...

[Lachlan]

It was the modded one. CV's, gearbox and the extensive mod list lead me to believe its had a good flogging. My inner bogan wants me to disregard all of these red flags and buy it because the going fast thing appeals to me even though i will drive it like a nanna.

Would you just replace the whole CV joints for the ones that are leaking or just find new CV boots for them?

Buy the unmolested one, mod the shit out of it properly, look after it properly.. then drive it like you stole it! You will have a batter, faster car. I have 110ks on mine and flog it 24/7 and its running like a champ (fingers crossed).

[nas711]

Loll British. I've been smashin' mah car like a dirty minge. You WOT mate?

[ImpStout]

Loll British. I've been smashin' mah car like a dirty minge. You WOT mate?

The low K one is going to cost me significantly more to get the mods done the same as the other (not that i need it to go that fast anyway). But i'm probably looking at it the wrong way though, the modded one is probably going to give me a lot more trouble $$$ in the future and that might eclipse the price of doing a few conservative mods on the low K option.