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Thread: DSC : Can't even race

  1. #1

    Default DSC : Can't even race

    Hi all,

    So I decided to be a hero and try to smoke a Focus ST for some fun to see how the car goes with all the mods (I usually drive pretty conservatively). Upon complete lack of launch due to the fact I never launch first (I am a pussy lol and like to see if the person is actually racing rather man me looking like a wanker) and playing the catch up game, I noticed a whole lot of not wheel spinning and boost cut out with the bastard DSC light flashing its arse off through the complete race. First and second I was playing catch up and third I pretty much obliterated him until we ended it and peeled off. I don't usually get DSC cut this bad as I WOT 1st and 2nd very rarely. Also have never raced someone off the line seriously before.

    NOW...Context given, turning the DSC light off, does this completely kill both traction control and dynamic stability control or JUST traction control? I have heard a few things, but no firm answers really. Some say that holding down the DSC button and starting car turns the system off completely (something I would rather not do). I would probably just like that annoying yellow light gone and boost cut when the wheels spin (even does it on dirt roads)

    So to those who race regularly, I am curious : Do you turn off DSC before you race or do you find the killing of boost is better than wheel spin? I would prefer wheel spin as that is more manageable with throttle rather than the laggy boost cut that is traction control.

    Any regular DSC button mashers here for their daily commute and have you noticed any drivability issues? I turned off DSC before I got AP and mods and haven't turned it off since due to power increases. But after this piss poor attempt at a race...I am a little curious.

    Thanks
    2010 Gen 2 - "SPOOOL" (VIC) - Fully bolted

    CORKSPORT TURBO | COBB AP3 | COBB DOWNPIPE | COBB REM | AUTOTECH HPFP | CORK SPORT 3" PS MAF INTAKE | COBB SF AB | CPE TMIC | CPE HEADERS | COBB 3 PORT EBCS | 3 BAR MAP| PEDDERS COILOVERS | DBA T4 SLOTTED ROTORS | CORKSPORT EYELIDS| FORGE V1 BPV| | MAGNAFLOW CUSTOM | VELOCITY RED | PEARL 2PAC STOCK RIMS | DUAL TUNED BY HPF ON E30

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    9,459

    Default

    It doesn't turn off traction control...
    Do you have a gen 1 or 2?
    The holding down thing only works with some gen 2's...

  3. #3

    Default

    On a gen 2 at least, DSC off lets you spin the tyres without interfering much (light not on, able to do but outs if not careful), whereas with it on dsc seems to come down like an anvil in first and second. Sticky tyres and dsc off should let you have plenty of fun on the street.

  4. #4

    Default

    I have a Gen 2 2010...whoops I should put that in my sig lol. I just notice alot lately that the DSC light flashes heaps when boosting due to wheels spin and totally kills boost.

  5. #5

    Default

    So would turning off DSC eliminate my problem? I am confused now lol

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    9,459

    Default

    Look up swas delete in latest atr update... With that, you can kill traction control...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,600

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nas711 View Post
    I have a Gen 2 2010...whoops I should put that in my sig lol. I just notice alot lately that the DSC light flashes heaps when boosting due to wheels spin and totally kills boost.
    Mine is a 2010 model.

    Turning the DSC off will only turn the Traction Control off. Stability control is always on. With DSC off you can spin your wheels as much as you like but it will still cut in if you are about to spin.

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Reedy View Post
    Mine is a 2010 model.

    Turning the DSC off will only turn the Traction Control off. Stability control is always on. With DSC off you can spin your wheels as much as you like but it will still cut in if you are about to spin.
    Beautiful, thanks Reedy. Do you mean "about to spin" as in spin your car from general bad driving/weather lol ? Because that is what I want to leave on!
    2010 Gen 2 - "SPOOOL" (VIC) - Fully bolted

    CORKSPORT TURBO | COBB AP3 | COBB DOWNPIPE | COBB REM | AUTOTECH HPFP | CORK SPORT 3" PS MAF INTAKE | COBB SF AB | CPE TMIC | CPE HEADERS | COBB 3 PORT EBCS | 3 BAR MAP| PEDDERS COILOVERS | DBA T4 SLOTTED ROTORS | CORKSPORT EYELIDS| FORGE V1 BPV| | MAGNAFLOW CUSTOM | VELOCITY RED | PEARL 2PAC STOCK RIMS | DUAL TUNED BY HPF ON E30

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,600

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nas711 View Post
    Beautiful, thanks Reedy. Do you mean "about to spin" as in spin your car from general bad driving/weather lol ? Because that is what I want to leave on!
    Correct, yes.

  10. #10

    Default

    Turn off DSC and decided to go for a blat. Rolled out a corner in 1st and planted it. Strange thing is (and maybe my tires are just still in good condition), but upon flooring it, it smoked first gear as per normal, but then gripped and rocketed forward with greater force than usual. Snapped each gear cleanly with very little wheel spin with great boost hold (thanks forge bpv) and it felt like a farking rocket! No bloody boost cut (aka DSC). I will be leaving this little button off!

    I need that silly focus ST to come around again haha. Though saying that, I find it funny that people even bother racing FWD's from a dead stop....AWD would munch us every time even with launch control. It's all catch up in my eyes...which is unfair race.

    On a side note, when my tyres are up, might switch to 225's .....has anyone had a good experience with running wider tyres for less spin? I know 225 40's will fit, but I am lowered about an inch an a half, so worried about scrub. Thanks!
    2010 Gen 2 - "SPOOOL" (VIC) - Fully bolted

    CORKSPORT TURBO | COBB AP3 | COBB DOWNPIPE | COBB REM | AUTOTECH HPFP | CORK SPORT 3" PS MAF INTAKE | COBB SF AB | CPE TMIC | CPE HEADERS | COBB 3 PORT EBCS | 3 BAR MAP| PEDDERS COILOVERS | DBA T4 SLOTTED ROTORS | CORKSPORT EYELIDS| FORGE V1 BPV| | MAGNAFLOW CUSTOM | VELOCITY RED | PEARL 2PAC STOCK RIMS | DUAL TUNED BY HPF ON E30

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Sth East Melbourne
    Posts
    332

    Default

    Out of curiosity.. Are you not running 225/40's now? That is the stock tyre size on Gen 2s..
    If you mean 235/40s on a stock rim, then you will be fine.

  12. #12

    Default

    Unfortunately 235/40 on stock rim (7.5") is not legal. Almost every manufacturer has 8" as the minimum rim width for 235/40. It will work fine but not legal (and I dare say a good excuse for insurance to avoid paying out in and accident). What tyres are you running @nas711?

  13. #13

    Default

    I am running stock rims (painted pearl white) on my 2010 gen 2. So I suppose they are 225 then, never actually looked. I love the idea of "illegal" stuff, but still insurable. My insurance is full comprehensive (bingle) and allows for anything except for custom paint (on the car), NOS/Meth injection or after market turbos. However, i'm pretty sure SRI's, DP's, CBE's, BOV/BPV's which are louder than stock are ALSO illegal, however my insurance company covers those. So er....??

  14. #14

    Default

    I really mean unroadworthy. Same as bald tyres. It's unlikely, but if you get in a crash, it's a great way for your insurance to wipe their hands of you. I know this because I failed an engineering certificate for 235 rs3s on stock rims.

    Best thing if you are after traction is to get stickier tyres.

  15. #15

    Default

    Yep 225, 40, 18's on the mps, just checked. Any advantages/disadvantages to go to 225 45's??

  16. #16

    Default

    +comfy -handling
    What actual tyres are you running?

  17. #17

    Default

    Kuhmo Ecsta LE sports or something lol. They came with the car. 225 40 18 .. Am I right 45's make the wheel arch lower, giving the illusion of a lower car?
    Last edited by nas711; 18-04-2015 at 04:35 PM.

  18. #18

    Default

    Lol. That's why you are struggling with grip. Better tyres (eg PSS, RS3, AD08r) will make a HUGE difference (much more than changing the size). 40/45 is the tyre profile as a percentage of width. I.e. The 40 is (225*0.40) tall. If you go 45 profile, it will actually raise the whole car by (225*0.05) but also add that much extra between the wheel and arch, so there will be less gap which I guess looks lower. Don't know if it would look good though, or more like a NA 3.

  19. #19

    Default

    Yeah would look a bit silly! Too much tyre already, I almost think the MPS should have come with 19's (I wish). I mean..the ride stiffness can't get any more right? lol. My tyres actually have alot of grip still in them (80% tread), so will be waiting a while. What brand do you consider the best for grip vs price. What tyres are you running?

    Side note, I am now actively turning of DSC now as it has totally removed the shudder that used to happen upon (wheelspin-traction control kicking in-boost gone), particularly in the rain. It just spins freely and grips when I back off, rather than CLUNK-putt putt putt. Traction control CAN'T be good for engine mounts with such a sudden change in engine torque... what do you think? NEVER launch with traction control, did that the other day and the dash almost fell out I swear! It jumped out at me!
    2010 Gen 2 - "SPOOOL" (VIC) - Fully bolted

    CORKSPORT TURBO | COBB AP3 | COBB DOWNPIPE | COBB REM | AUTOTECH HPFP | CORK SPORT 3" PS MAF INTAKE | COBB SF AB | CPE TMIC | CPE HEADERS | COBB 3 PORT EBCS | 3 BAR MAP| PEDDERS COILOVERS | DBA T4 SLOTTED ROTORS | CORKSPORT EYELIDS| FORGE V1 BPV| | MAGNAFLOW CUSTOM | VELOCITY RED | PEARL 2PAC STOCK RIMS | DUAL TUNED BY HPF ON E30

  20. #20

    Default

    Yeah, it's really wet here and did the same thing tonight. DSC of it's at least predictable and doesn't catch you out mid-corner in the wet. Plus you can front-wheel drift! Lol Don't like the sound of it smashing mounts either :s

    I know leadfootrob was running 19s (RX-8 rims I think) and they looked good, but 18s are cheaper and lighter. You might even find good aftermarket suspension is actually more comfortable (firmer, but less crashy).

    Tyres, it's more about model than brand (just like cars, you don't lump the MPS in with a diesel Mazda 3). I switched to stock size yokohama AD08s and the difference was night and day. Went through 2 sets of those and now have hankook RS3s in 235/40 (on 8.5" rims) which are a fair bit cheaper and almost as good. Looking at more semi-slicks, either AD08R (preferable) or RS3s next, in 255/35. For better life, sarcasticone just got michelin pilot sport 3s (I think moving from RS3s) which he seems to like. For this car I think you really need to be shopping in the 'extreme performance summer' category to get the most out of it, but you do sacrifice comfort and tyre life a bit for traction. There is a whole thread on here somewhere with tyre reviews.
    Fast: RayD Tune|COBB AP|JBR|Stratified|CP-e|Xforce|Autotech|Denso|Corksport
    Turn: Bilstein|Eibach|Whiteline|JBR|Hankook RS3
    Stop: Wilwood 4pots|Custom lines|DBA T3|Remsa|TRW 600
    Rice: JL|Alpine|Focal|MiniDSP|Rota g-force|2XS|Cree|Celestial Blue FTW!

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