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Thread: New MPS owner here, just some advice please.

  1. #1

    Default New MPS owner here, just some advice please.

    Hi,

    Have owned my 2010 MPS 3 for about 2 months now It has 80K on the clock. So far I have put the COBB stage 1+ kit on it straight way installed by HPF and it is just on a standard OST stage 1 COBB tune. The kit included: SRI, SF Airbox, TIH, and AP v3 (engine mount on back order for S2). It currently runs on stock boost. Got some nice gains on it, great improvement to powercurve and drives ALOT better, but would like a little bit more and leave it at that (not ever racing it) as stage 2 gains look very impressive.

    Currently I am awaiting stage 2 parts to come in and get installed sometime next week by HPF. This includes the HPFP upgrade, downpipe and engine mount. I have some questions as I trust a multitude of people with experiences of there own rather than a company who sell a product (though they have been great and even offered me a loan car for the day!).

    1. Anyone who has stage 2 out of the box, COBB only stage 2 kit (not a mix match), how have you found it? Is your car still reliable and driveable, and if so what kind of k's are you running to prove this and have you had any major problems not of your own doing?

    2. Should I go with a custom tune, or just stick with the COBB OTS stage 2 maps. It will save me about $500 as i already have the AP v3. I am happy with the OTS stage 1 tune so far...very smooth drive. HP is not important to me, but I feel the stage 2 will give the car the best bang for buck with reliability still preserved.

    3. I see the boost goes from 15.5 - 18.5 - Will the engine hold up to this over time? I am pretty conservative drive, no track interest etc, but I want my car to still last quite a few years. I rarely rev over 5K and let my car cool down for about 2 minutes every drive. I wait about 5 minutes each time before I rev it at all.

    4. Is the engine mount replacement worth it. I have heard mixed things from brilliant to vibrations galore. I value my smooth driving fairly new MPS, and I don't want a shudder box or button clutch feel.

    Any experiences, good or bad is welcome, but please provide detail. Don't say "oh it stuffed my engine" if you go to the track or are a frequent thrasher as this does not reflect my driving style. I would love to see my car hit 200,000km (turbo replacement of course) as I did with my sp23 (hit 300,000 with no rebuild, and it was revved alot!)

    Kind regards,

    Paul

  2. Default

    1. Been on stage 2 ots+ map for 20k km, no issues.

    2. Custom e-tune is worth it, and the tuner can dial in a tune that meets your needs and tune goals It will be better and smoother than the OTS maps. The other option would be to get an OTS+ map from Stratified or Freektune.

    3. This is more a tune based issue rather than just psi. If youre going to boost 18 psi at 2.5k rpm you'll be asking for trouble.

    4. Rear engine mount it totally worth it and a very common mod. You can go from inserts to a variety of full mounts with different Duro's. There would be a gain in NVH depending on what you get but id say that its worth the gain in feel, connectedness, smoother shifts etc.

  3. #3

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    Thanks heaps. But who boosts at 18 psi @ 2.5k? I never WOT in 5th or 6th....18 psi would kick in for me usually only on 1-3 if I'm up around 4k-6k!

  4. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nas711 View Post
    Thanks heaps. But who boosts at 18 psi @ 2.5k? I never WOT in 5th or 6th....18 psi would kick in for me usually only on 1-3 if I'm up around 4k-6k!
    Noone without forged internals!

  5. #5

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    What is the WOT% on the AP anyway? 75%?

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    There are two parameters, Throttle Position (TP) and Accelerator Pedal Position (APP). WOT for TP is about 75%.

  7. #7

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    Ok thanks for the information i'm new to turbos. I think I have actually used 6th twice now to putt on the highway. 5th seems more than enough and sticks to sub 3K revs. Say if I travel up a hill in 5th with about 50% throttle and half boost, this is fine right? I do alot of just cruising around half boost (lets say about 8-10psi) in 4th/5th when just daily driving as the roads are fairly open where I live (alot of 80 zones). I want to get the most out of my engine.

    Regarding engine mount..I am just getting the COBB one. Regarding 18psi, what do you mean by tune based issue? Do you mean driving based issues as in lugging it at WOT in a low gear all the time? How should I get them to tune it to avoid this then if it is a "tune based issue"

    Question: If you recommend a custom tune, why are you running the stock OTS stage2 map on your mps?

  8. Default

    Engine health is more than just about boost pressure (ignition timing, WGDC tables, HPFP tables, compensation tables, load/boost limit tables etc etc etc.). There's a lot to consider, and something an custom tune can sort out for you.

    In terms of tunes its custom > ots + > cobb ots

    Im not recommending either/or, just presenting options. Iim using ots + as it was good value at the time and met my budget.

  9. #9

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    Thanks for the info man. Heaps more helpful than the contradictive douchebags on the mazdaspeed forums. I don't know why such a simple question made them so irrate. First it was "Get a tune", then it was no go search forums for your answer then it was " you only have mild bolt ons, a tune is a joke" ..

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nas711 View Post
    Thanks for the info man. Heaps more helpful than the contradictive douchebags on the mazdaspeed forums. I don't know why such a simple question made them so irrate. First it was "Get a tune", then it was no go search forums for your answer then it was " you only have mild bolt ons, a tune is a joke" ..
    No, they were saying a dyno tune is a joke which, to be fair, it kind of it is..

    A simple ots+ (Freektune or Stratified) will give you quite a lot of gains/drivability improvements... If you don't want to do a full e-tune... (And only ~100 aus)

    MSF is a unique place... Don't take it too harshly
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  11. #11

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    Welcome.
    MSF is the best thing since sliced bread for this platform...

    Most all REMs are good, you will love it.

    Not sure what the deal was with your tune discussion, but if you do decide to go for a full tune, I'd suggest focussing on experience above everything else. Look for tuners (either here or in the US) who have personally tuned many MPSs (nor just a bajillion mitsus/WRXs) which rules out generic dyno places.

    If you aren't going crazy on power, are you also looking at suspension upgrades? Quality spring and shock combos are a great upgrade for daily driving IMO.

    P.S. What's with the cobb obsession? Lol
    Fast: RayD Tune|COBB AP|JBR|Stratified|CP-e|Xforce|Autotech|Denso|Corksport
    Turn: Bilstein|Eibach|Whiteline|JBR|Hankook RS3
    Stop: Wilwood 4pots|Custom lines|DBA T3|Remsa|TRW 600
    Rice: JL|Alpine|Focal|MiniDSP|Rota g-force|2XS|Cree|Celestial Blue FTW!

  12. #12

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    Yeah I dunno what they were going on about, it was simple enough. A few cocky ones chimed in for some reason..I just wanted an experience based response, not an opinion based one. I might leave the suspension as is until something major happens and then I will replace it. It is very stiff for stock tho...bumpy as. The people who are tuning have done many MPS's so I am happy to go and get a dyno. I had a lot bad experiences with my rotory in QLD with dodgy people, dodgy and mixed parts and it was expensive. No obsession with COBB, it was just I wanted a mod "kit" which was fully bolt on and supported by them, rather than a hodge podge of parts I no nothing about. Cobb AP and matching parts seemed a nice "safe", undo-able upgrade to a nice stock car as I went abit silly with the rotary and it was a money pit. Pay a few grand for some parts, fitting and tune and I will be happy. That's why I asked the questions specically related to cobb stage 2 and tune. Cheers


    p.s I have been through many etunes with my old car and it was alot of mucking around compared to dropping off a car for a day and returning to it with nice simple bolt ons and a not to extreme tune that drives well.
    Last edited by nas711; 20-01-2015 at 05:29 PM.

  13. #13

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    Lol, they weren't even mean to you, they just gave you good advice http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...d.php?t=182983

    The point of a proper tune is so you can pick the best parts from each manufacturer and tie them all together. The car doesn't give one **** what brand each part is, as long as they work properly and the tune is solid. The benefit of an etune on is that you can tailor them as you go. e.g. "Last map was great, but I get wheelspin in second so can you tame down second a bit? Throttle is a bit laggy, so can you sharpen it up a little? Can you also set launch control a few hundred rpm earlier and FFS 500rpm later." Rinse and repeat 4-10 times until you are happy with your entire setup. You don't get this on a dyno.

    Just make sure you are getting a real custom tune for your money, and not just a generic tune that will work with any MPS with the 'stage blah' cobb mods, because stratified already have one of these, as advised above, for a lot less $$$.

    If you want to drive in, get everything done, and drive out without getting your hands dirty that's fine too, but it's not what most on here do, so don't expect lots of reviews of the entire 'kits'. If you want info on each part, look them up separately (e.g. Cobb downpipe, cobb intake, cobb REM) and you will find what you need.

    Anyway, it sounds like you are already sure of what you want, so why don't you go get the 'stage whatever' tune and then come back with a dyno sheet and tell us how it goes.

    /rant
    Fast: RayD Tune|COBB AP|JBR|Stratified|CP-e|Xforce|Autotech|Denso|Corksport
    Turn: Bilstein|Eibach|Whiteline|JBR|Hankook RS3
    Stop: Wilwood 4pots|Custom lines|DBA T3|Remsa|TRW 600
    Rice: JL|Alpine|Focal|MiniDSP|Rota g-force|2XS|Cree|Celestial Blue FTW!

  14. #14

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    Haha I wasn't saying they were mean, just a little douchey compared to your well rounded response. Just wondering if anyone had been down my road of a "slap on a kit, tune and go" for xx cobb parts. Cheers for the info man. I don't trust reviews on manufacturers sites, and they don't have reviews of the whole kit being used, just each part.

  15. Default

    If you think they were mean you need a cup of cement compared to what uneducated ones usually cop asking the same shit over and over for 4 years...any advice you get here is from people that researched and had read the answers from the exact same people you call "douches" from MSF. Good luck with the please spoon feed me approach even after people have given you answers

  16. #16

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    Stage 2 COBB part kit on, custom tuned @ 182kw @tw. Thanks for the answers and advice.

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by nas711 View Post
    Stage 2 COBB part kit on, custom tuned @ 182kw @tw. Thanks for the answers and advice.
    Dyno graph?
    Fast: RayD Tune|COBB AP|JBR|Stratified|CP-e|Xforce|Autotech|Denso|Corksport
    Turn: Bilstein|Eibach|Whiteline|JBR|Hankook RS3
    Stop: Wilwood 4pots|Custom lines|DBA T3|Remsa|TRW 600
    Rice: JL|Alpine|Focal|MiniDSP|Rota g-force|2XS|Cree|Celestial Blue FTW!

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