User Tag List

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 33 of 33

Thread: Xede

  1. #21

    Default

    I've heard Chiptorque do offer the Ezyflash for the MPS3, which unlike the Xede should be able to keep the throttle plate open until redline. Might be worth enquiring about that.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Age
    47
    Posts
    789

    Default

    Well i rang them in October last year & they said it was about a month away........still waiting!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    49
    Posts
    1,834

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Nuliaj View Post
    That's a big call considering the benefit/price of an intake or a DP?
    I will back myself 100% on that.

    I have driven a bolted MPS3 (DP, FMIC, CAI, TIP),
    and a less modded MPS3 (Stock exhaust, SRI, ETS TMIC) + Xede, and the shove in the back from the Xede equipped car was surprising, traction in WOT through first and second was manageable on a good road surface, and minimal on rougher roads.
    I have no doubts that the ECU on this platform adapts itself (as best it can) around "bolt-on" mods, sure there are some gains but they arent what they should be, throw an Xede into the equation and the supporting mods are able to perform as one would expect.

    On the price comparison side of things, we'll use MPS garage, as they are the local distributor for most products (and a site sponsor), and cp-e goods, cause everyone knows how much I like cp-e gear:

    CAI $485.00, + labour for fitting (for the less hands on out there) say $200 = $685 - minor gains (bit more top end), added noise is a bonus.
    add a TIP into the equation at $419 plus about $100 labour - gains only become apparent on a more highly bolted engine, more top end in these cases,
    brings a grand total of $1204

    Note: SRIs are a bit cheaper and easier to fit.

    DP, only, with stock CBE. Catted DP (for legal reasons) $1250 + labour (which most will require) of around $500 + $1750, good overall power and torque improvement through the rev range, more open up top, snappier throttle response.

    Xede: ~$1500 fitted and tuned, typical peak gains on stock car 20-25 kW atw (recorded on Australian dynos, not their inflated American cousins), much broader power and torque throughout the entire rev range (i.e more meat under the curve).

    As for flashing and the closing throttle plate, so far most lightly modded MPS / Mazdaspeeds that have blown have usually had the throttle plate mod, remember the piasini debacle.
    Mazda close that plate for a reason, and there are people that are smarter than you & I, smarter than cp-e, Cobb or piasini that made that plate close at a certain point, and made sure it wasn't easy to bypass.

    As I mentioned before the Xede should be the last step in the mod plan, due to the expense of retuning everytime something is changed, sure if you dont mind paying lots more everytime you buy a new bit, or dont have plans to mod the car extensively get one sooner.

  4. #24

    Default

    You should compare my fully bolted MPS to SNR81 with just SRI and tune.

    Compare the dyno graphs

    Mine: 180kw - Top line = Fully bolted: FMIC, Twin DP, TBE, TIP, SRI and Exhaust manifold.


    SNR81: Same SRI with XEDE (tuned)
    Last edited by 2XS; 29-07-2009 at 09:33 PM.

  5. #25

    Default

    I suppose this is a good thread to ask, what options are there available for a plug in loom for the xede, ie; not cutting/soldering the factory loom?

    I have no idea on whether the actual plugs are the same as the cpe standback eg: http://www.mpsgarage.com.au/shop/pro...p-harness.html

  6. #26

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MattMPS3 View Post
    I will back myself 100% on that.

    I have driven a bolted MPS3 (DP, FMIC, CAI, TIP),
    and a less modded MPS3 (Stock exhaust, SRI, ETS TMIC) + Xede, and the shove in the back from the Xede equipped car was surprising, traction in WOT through first and second was manageable on a good road surface, and minimal on rougher roads.
    You're combing mods there. BFYB if stock and had to choose a mod or two, I would be getting an SRI and DP. Difference being is with hardware mods, you're making it physically easier for your engine to work. Start tuning the ECU as your first mod and you're just making your engine work harder. I would say Intake + DP (A DP alone is 30 HP ~ 20kw peak difference) is more than a match for a stock car with just an Xede. I would actually love to test this theory if possible, cept I don't think there's anyone in WA that is tuned. How about over east?

    Quote Originally Posted by MattMPS3 View Post
    CAI $485.00, + labour for fitting (for the less hands on out there) say $200 = $685 - minor gains (bit more top end), added noise is a bonus.
    add a TIP into the equation at $419 plus about $100 labour - gains only become apparent on a more highly bolted engine, more top end in these cases,
    brings a grand total of $1204

    Note: SRIs are a bit cheaper and easier to fit.

    DP, only, with stock CBE. Catted DP (for legal reasons) $1250 + labour (which most will require) of around $500 + $1750, good overall power and torque improvement through the rev range, more open up top, snappier throttle response.
    Those are some expensive parts installers you got there, $300 for a CAI and Inlet? I need to start advertising my services.

    Quote Originally Posted by MattMPS3 View Post
    As for flashing and the closing throttle plate, so far most lightly modded MPS / Mazdaspeeds that have blown have usually had the throttle plate mod, remember the piasini debacle.
    Mazda close that plate for a reason, and there are people that are smarter than you & I, smarter than cp-e, Cobb or piasini that made that plate close at a certain point, and made sure it wasn't easy to bypass.
    The reason the TP closes is because on the stock turbo, we are way past the efficiency range @6000 rpm. Closing the throttle means the turbo will not start overspooling and risk damaging the shaft. To say that the TP is the reason the cars blow is not really a fair comment. There are so many guys running Cobb APs in the US - everyone of them has a fully opened TP. In all honesty, they didn't make it any harder to bypass than anything else on the ECU.

    Quote Originally Posted by MattMPS3 View Post
    As I mentioned before the Xede should be the last step in the mod plan, due to the expense of retuning everytime something is changed, sure if you dont mind paying lots more everytime you buy a new bit, or dont have plans to mod the car extensively get one sooner.
    I still agree tuning is the last thing you do, especially if you need to pay to tune. My point is it's not the best choice for the first few mods you do.

    2XS you can't compare dynos for 2 cars done at different places.
    Nuliaj: Hatches are only really half a car anyway.
    shinslinger66: And you forgot to add that they are also a girls car!

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    North side, Vic
    Age
    37
    Posts
    6,745

    Default

    Good post, that said though... some people would not want to completely mod the car, intake/IC/dump and tune would be sufficient. Others would go all out.

    Depends on what you are trying to achieve and how big your budget is - remember not all of us want everything modded

  8. #28

    Default

    I was merely using the 2 dyno sheets as a reference.

    You can compare the end output and the power curve. It can only be used as a general reference as stated, but, the close to stock car has a fatter power curve unlike mine. The mods on my car have only made small differences up top.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Age
    47
    Posts
    789

    Default

    Isnt that the whole idea.....a fatter torque curve. Not everyone is interested driving their car at redline just to get peak power. I'd take midrange torque any day over top end peak power.
    At the end of the day it just depends on what you want, a great street car or a drag car.....

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    49
    Posts
    1,834

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Nuliaj View Post
    You're combing mods there. BFYB if stock and had to choose a mod or two, I would be getting an SRI and DP. Difference being is with hardware mods, you're making it physically easier for your engine to work. Start tuning the ECU as your first mod and you're just making your engine work harder. I would say Intake + DP (A DP alone is 30 HP ~ 20kw peak difference) is more than a match for a stock car with just an Xede. I would actually love to test this theory if possible, cept I don't think there's anyone in WA that is tuned. How about over east?
    I appreciate it wasnt a completely stock + Xede vs bolted in its truest form, but it was the best I could do, and the Xede eqipped car still felt quicker.
    Has anyone proven locally that a DP is good for 20kW atw, I know the manufacturers have a plethora of dyno sheets available from websites and other marketing avenues, but how accurate are they, I would love to see some independent testing on a car being built with each mod dyno'd and evaluated as the mods perform on their own, or how they work together with other mods.
    Not saying its not true, and it may well be the case for the 6, look how much benefit you guys gain from a CBE vs the 3.

    Cant agree more about freeing up the breathing before the tuning, and respectively making the engine work harder in stock trim with the tune.


    Quote Originally Posted by Nuliaj View Post
    Those are some expensive parts installers you got there, $300 for a CAI and Inlet? I need to start advertising my services.
    I was trying to make the "Joe the mechanic" assumption, yeah the numbers are probably a bit high, but an average mechanic doesnt spend time reading forums to find the tips and tricks to better install a CAI, I figured about 2.5 hours @$75 per hour for a CAI, from go to woah, for someone with no experience with the plaform.


    Quote Originally Posted by Nuliaj View Post
    The reason the TP closes is because on the stock turbo, we are way past the efficiency range @6000 rpm. Closing the throttle means the turbo will not start overspooling and risk damaging the shaft. To say that the TP is the reason the cars blow is not really a fair comment. There are so many guys running Cobb APs in the US - everyone of them has a fully opened TP. In all honesty, they didn't make it any harder to bypass than anything else on the ECU.
    Probably not a fair call on my part I will give you that, but it seems to be the trend with most that have blown, mind you these have usually been heavily bolted as well.
    But it is the wastegates responsibility to control the spindle speed of the turbo, not the throttle plate, which is why I believe there is another reason the plate is forced to close, maybe it is part of the mystery that surrounds DI


    Quote Originally Posted by Nuliaj View Post
    I still agree tuning is the last thing you do, especially if you need to pay to tune. My point is it's not the best choice for the first few mods you do.

    2XS you can't compare dynos for 2 cars done at different places.
    Agree with that, and why was the other car dynod in 4th gear, these cars need to be done in 5th gear, that is the closest ratio to 1:1.

  11. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by chipped View Post

    Oh Leah Intune Performance are the Chiptorque tuners here in WA.
    I assume they are of good reputation?

    Cheers
    Yes, please contact Aaron at Intune Performance Ph: 08 9434 6608 for XEDE tuning in Perth. He has experience with tuning Mazda 3 MPS with XEDE too.

  12. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by VGP View Post
    I suppose this is a good thread to ask, what options are there available for a plug in loom for the xede, ie; not cutting/soldering the factory loom?

    I have no idea on whether the actual plugs are the same as the cpe standback eg: http://www.mpsgarage.com.au/shop/pro...p-harness.html
    There is only a wire-in harness available for the installation of the XEDE Processor on Mazda MPS 3 or 6. ChipTorque are not looking to develop a plu-in loom as we are now moving onto flash and Ezy-FLASH development.

    In theory if you purchased a patch loom for a Mazda MPS ECU, then the XEDE could be wired into the patch ECU wiring. I have purchased these for other vehicle's previously (namely Mazda RX-8) from US vendors, but I am not aware of anyone selling them for the MPS.

    I am unsure of the design of the linked plug n play loom, but if the corresponding ECU pins are bridged between the ECU and loom plug, you coulld possibly wire to the corresponding ECU pins with the XEDE wire-in harness.

    Leah

  13. #33

    Default

    Thanks for the input leah,

    I've been thinking of what can be done and came up with a similar solution to what you've posted, ie using another plug in loom to wire in the xede.
    Thanks again!

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •