Personally if you're not chasing big kw I'd just go a crate motor.
Personally if you're not chasing big kw I'd just go a crate motor.
But secretly port and polish your head while its all happening :P
The factory mazda ring lands will not stand up to a car that is tracked especially when tuned hence Rob Hunts and your own car Reedy.the piston rings that come with Wiseco are the same material that are used in cars that get thrashed with well over 1000hp in the last 20 years, replacing you engine bits that have failed with the exact same thing going to land you in the exact same position you are in now....spend the money get it done right mate
In other words: if you build it, they will come.
How much longer would you expect a built motor to last tho? If the ringlands are no longer the weak point then you might start doing damage to the bore itself. If a built motor only lasts marginally longer than a stock one then is it worth all of the gremlins that go along with it? If I rebuild my existing motor then there is no guarantee that another part might fail soon.
I have just seen a few too many motor builds that just have gremlin after gremlin. I think in my case a new engine, oil cooling and driving it a bit less aggressively will be enough to get the life out of it that I am after with minimal fuss.
Ps. I may or may not have ordered a quaife today.
Last edited by Reedy; 26-09-2014 at 09:44 AM.
Email from freek:
If he is going with aftermarket pistons, then use the supplied rings. I would not personally run another set of stock pistons on a car that is tracked heavily, especially with high temps.*
Opening a new block, and dropping in new rods and pistons is pretty straight forward. Take your time, make sure everything is clean, set ring gaps, reassemble.. Have a happy like. lol. Only new gasket really needed, is head gasket. And that could probably even be reused. I just haven't had the balls to try.*
@Jamesa2z don't know if this interest you at all...
Last edited by SarcasticOne; 27-09-2014 at 08:30 AM.
Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings
Brand New Engine + Forged Internals would be nice, but shouldn't it also be balanced? That required lots of pulling apart doesn't it?
Many want Power not many hold it long.........
Many parts of yor engine can be re used after being assessed and serviced as part of overhaul procedures, many gremlins are usually someone's mistakes covered up by pulling the wool over ones eyes.
Considering your engine is only worn out and not ****ed, there is no reason to assume that rebuilding it would lead to more hassle then replacing it all together., that's no different then buying a new long engine and replacing internal components on the basis that "it's new"
The only thing you can save by going a new engine is turn around time on the repair.
overhauling your current engine would mean a full teardown assessment and close quality control during assembly, hand built engines (depending on the numb nut building it) are usually a lot better than one that's been slapped together on an assembly line.
Every man should have a V8 ute.....with a Chev badge.....and a Southern Cross sticker! Mods? What mods?
Most wreckers that have been contacted want $5000 for a second hand engine! lol no. You're better off with a brand new one.
New engine + forged internals would be nice..... Could we then swap the pistons from the new engine into the old one provided tolerances are ok? That might be one way to revive the old engine and make it sellable with minimal fuss.
The bore will be outside spec once honed meaning the new std pistons won't be suitable for the corrected bore size... Short answer is no.
.0011" is not a lot of allowance, hone it and your on your way to .020 os.
A new Long Engine is definitely firming as the favourite. The next question is whether to drop in a set of internals while we have the chance.
More questions for the ones that know @SarcasticOne @LittleredMPS
What Pistons and rods suit my purposes the best? I am not doing big power but my car gets driven hard, it is heat management that is more important than absolute strength. I need something that will wear longer than the stock ones without needing them to handle huge power levels.
The most important part here is what pistons/rings are the most suitable? What is the difference between the ones that are available? My car might get raced a lot but it still needs to work on the street, nor do I have the time or the money to strip it down and rebuild it any more than I already do!
So, who knows rings? I want the full metallurgy and science breakdowns if you can give it to me.
Last edited by Reedy; 30-09-2014 at 09:56 AM.