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Thread: Thinking about a tune.

  1. #1

    Default Thinking about a tune.

    Hi guys,

    I've been lurking around the forums for a couple of years now, but mainly just on the tech talk section.

    But after all these years of driving the car has made the sensation of that "pull" which it once had, died down. So here I am, looking for some advice on how to get more juice from the sleeper so the questions are.. what supporting mods will I need before I go for a tune? and where you guys would recommend getting one? been reading a few posts and alot of ppl are going down the AP path, but I basically have no experience with any type of tuning so that route might not be the best for me? I'm really sorta stuck lol.. have no idea what to do

    at the moment I only have the SURE SRI and TIP on the car, but I actually find the induction sound annoying really lol...

    Any advice would be appreciated as this is the first time I've thought about tuning, but I think it'll be fun!

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Initial DJ View Post
    Hi guys,

    I've been lurking around the forums for a couple of years now, but mainly just on the tech talk section.

    But after all these years of driving the car has made the sensation of that "pull" which it once had, died down. So here I am, looking for some advice on how to get more juice from the sleeper so the questions are.. what supporting mods will I need before I go for a tune? and where you guys would recommend getting one? been reading a few posts and alot of ppl are going down the AP path, but I basically have no experience with any type of tuning so that route might not be the best for me? I'm really sorta stuck lol.. have no idea what to do

    at the moment I only have the SURE SRI and TIP on the car, but I actually find the induction sound annoying really lol...

    Any advice would be appreciated as this is the first time I've thought about tuning, but I think it'll be fun!

    Thanks in advance!
    Hi there. I have no clue what I am doing but I have a cobb ap and a freektune. It is super easy to use and freek is able to answer questions. Even blonde lady ones so you will be fine. Good luck and enjoy the ride

    Make sure you change your fuel pump internals before you tune. Plenty of threads about that on here
    Queenslands Bossy Bitch

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    9,459

    Default

    Freektune or stratifiedauto are my suggestions

    If you can load a file onto a USB stick, you can e-tune... Assuming you have a quiet road you can do 2500-6500rpm in 3rd or 4th in...

    As @MissJody said, the only "must do" mod is hpfp internals...

  4. #4

    Default

    so by just using the Cobb AP to tune my car with stock air box ( planning to swap out the Sri) and hpfp internals, how much gains would I expect to get as compared to for e.g a standard ecutek tune @tunehouse?

    And when u guys say hpfp internals, is that just the fuel pump? <- blonde question lol. Please don't mind me, it took me a good 6 hrs to put in the tip and Sri (removing stock parts took me 3).

    And last question b4 I get to work, what are the chances of me stuffing up and zoom zoom boom?
    Corksport TMIC | Autotech HPFP internals | HTP 3" | 2XS Test pipe | CPE Injector Seals | CPE S2 RMM|

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    9,459

    Default

    Be very similar gains with similar mods...

    High pressure fuel pump

    Very little... Assuming car is fine mechanically

  6. #6

    Default

    aside from tune, HPFP for safety and race pipe for best bang for buck.

    if you have any extra cash to spend, then a dump pipe rather than race pipe.

    If you haven't already, rear engine mount and rear sway bar will make the biggest handling difference to the car.

    best free mod is to modify the stock airbox by cutting a hole in it. People say it doesn't make any difference, but I definatley felt the car would rev easier

  7. #7

    Default

    thanks for the awesome tips and info guys!

    Looks like I'll be ordering myself an AP port and Hpfp and join the E tune bunch!

    I don't think I'd be confident enough to install the hpfp myself, is there anyone here that could help?

    @lup - I do have a cpe stage 2 Rem but no sway bars. Might look into it with the extra cash I've saved not going to TH for the tune lol..

    so DP adds quite abit of gains I hear? I was checking out the Cobb DP which a lot of ppl gave good reviews. Anyone have one on theirs that could comment?
    Corksport TMIC | Autotech HPFP internals | HTP 3" | 2XS Test pipe | CPE Injector Seals | CPE S2 RMM|

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
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    Have a look at the link in my SIG... It links to a FAQ which shows a bunch of data on DP vs test pipe... On stock turbo, I'd say save your money, get a race pipe (easily sold later on if you decide you want to go bigger)
    Last edited by SarcasticOne; 19-08-2014 at 02:47 PM.

  9. #9

    Default

    have a look at my thread about the Cobb dump pipe
    http://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/intak...1-mps-3-a.html

    I still think a dump pipe is worth it even with the stock turbo. The engine is much more responsive with the Cobb unit (and probably others) as the cat is very free flowing. You can't see throttle response on a dyno chart. If you just care about being a dyno queen, then dont get a dump pipe :P

  10. #10

    Default

    +1 to race pipe on stock turbo, particularly if you intend to replace the turbo down the track. Cheap and super easy to install yourself in an hour. DP I'm sure is great, but costs a lot more and will take at least a day to install (or pay a shop many hundreds of dollars), plus run the risk of stripping O2 sensors (more hundreds of dollars). I'm leaving mine until new turbo.

    PS, there is a sway bar in the 'for sale' section right now.
    Fast: RayD Tune|COBB AP|JBR|Stratified|CP-e|Xforce|Autotech|Denso|Corksport
    Turn: Bilstein|Eibach|Whiteline|JBR|Hankook RS3
    Stop: Wilwood 4pots|Custom lines|DBA T3|Remsa|TRW 600
    Rice: JL|Alpine|Focal|MiniDSP|Rota g-force|2XS|Cree|Celestial Blue FTW!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Brisbane
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    58
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Initial DJ View Post
    thanks for the awesome tips and info guys!

    Looks like I'll be ordering myself an AP port and Hpfp and join the E tune bunch!

    I don't think I'd be confident enough to install the hpfp myself, is there anyone here that could help?
    I am doing my first one at the moment and the biggest issue so far has been finding a deep 18mm socket that is long enough and internally wide enough to go over the spring and retainer. The retainer is 17.1mm diameter. Mine doesn't reach and I had to compress the spring to get the pump apart with a bit of force and a bit of luck. Fortunately I am working on a spare pump, I would have been much more nervous pulling it apart if it was my only one.

    I also had a small issue with the retainer and the instructions and I am waiting to hear back from Corksport before attempting reassembly.

    Maybe someone with more experience and better tools can comment on how easy or hard it is.

    Also you need an E8 reverse torx socket to remove the pump. Got my set from Tradetools.
    CX7 - The younger, taller and sexier replacement for the MPS6 and the first car designed around the MZR DISI
    2007 CX7 2.3 DISI AWD Ice Blue | HID's | ETS TMIC | Cobb XLE BOV | CX9 20" wheels | 245/50/20 Scorpion STR's | CS HPFP | CX9 Brakes | Pedders Sports Ryders -40mm | CS Turbo | JBR 3.5" WPI | Cooling Mist WMI |Versatune

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    1,413

    Default

    I'm in Newcastle, many have made the trip for mods/work.

    Im also a mechanic so I have tools.

  13. Default

    The must have $700 + $800 to buy and install dump pipe to get the placebo effect power is so 2011, the elite etuners these days can get shit loads of safe power with just a test pipe. Sure Dp may make a whopping 10 whp for that extra $1000 plus to buy and install.

  14. #14

    Default

    once again, you cannot see throttle response on a dyno chart....

    in the end it depends what u are going to do with the car. if all you are going to do is flat foot drive, then dont get a dump. head into the mountains on twisties, you will know what throttle response means

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Canberra
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    9,459

    Default

    If you want more throttle response, your tuner can dial it in

    http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...d.php?t=146060

  16. #16

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MPS2NV View Post
    I'm in Newcastle, many have made the trip for mods/work.

    Im also a mechanic so I have tools.
    I'm in sydney, so I don't mind the drive up to have the HPFP installed, it needs a good 200km to run it in anyway lol so I can do that on the way back. Could u PM me how much u would charge for the install? or will u do it for a case of beer :P

    Quote Originally Posted by SarcasticOne View Post
    Have a look at the link in my SIG... It links to a FAQ which shows a bunch of data on DP vs test pipe... On stock turbo, I'd say save your money, get a race pipe (easily sold later on if you decide you want to go bigger)
    Just had a look at your link Sarcastic, you've got some awesome info on alot of things! but I think I've settled on getting the race pipe as I won't be changing the turbo (I hope). But will installing the race pipe affect emission? and is there any specific one that you'd recommend? oh btw I have a 2010 gen 2.

  17. #17

    Default

    Yes a tuner can do almost anything. But if it can be done mechanically then it means it's working due to physics. It's like in another thread where it MRT said you dont need a HPFP. They made the tune to cover the fact a HPFP was needed. Or like saying you can have 20psi boost with a tiny turbo or 20psi on a large turbo - same boost, different efficiencies

    The physics just make it easier for the tuner to not have to tune things on the limit to get the same end result. I'm not saying that tuning wont get the same throttle response with a stock dump, but I prefer that the car produce the response mechanically and then use software to fine tune and dial in to specific preferences

    That's just me and the way I mod my cars, not to be on the limit. If you are on a budget then there are different strategies and priorities.

    Also the difference may not be as pronounced, but an aftermarket dump will still flow better and have lower EGTs. I also know that Gen2 have issues with CELs which is another reason to possibly shy away from a dump

  18. #18

    Default

    I remember reading somewhere on this forum that some ppl had some issues with a DP, would a race pipe have the same risk or is it much safer to install?

    Just a question regarding the accessport, do I just buy it straight from the states through the cobb website? or they don't ship to AUS?

  19. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Initial DJ View Post
    I remember reading somewhere on this forum that some ppl had some issues with a DP, would a race pipe have the same risk or is it much safer to install?
    Just a question regarding the accessport, do I just buy it straight from the states through the cobb website? or they don't ship to AUS?

    Race pipe / mid pipe is much easier to install than a DP. Have a look at some install guides to get a guide on difficulty


    Order it from the states, through our forum sponsor EdgeAutosport or Cobb
    Last edited by allo80; 19-08-2014 at 11:17 PM. Reason: better formatting

  20. Default

    You can just get a second hand hypertech and delete the boost restrictions and it will fry tyres in first and 2nd gear with minimal throttle input..the stock tune is dialed dowm to stop the turbo from being too respnsive..if you need a DP to make it feel more responsive there is other problems.

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