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Thread: Top 5 Engine oils tested

  1. #1

    Default Top 5 Engine oils tested

    hey guys engine oil test.

    the results are in.

    [YOUTUBE]49kETjPZP9Y[/YOUTUBE]
    Last edited by duglet; 13-06-2009 at 03:12 PM. Reason: fixed YT link

  2. #2

    Default

    paahaha...

    " thats a toyota hilux. ahh.. that ahhh runs a 2JZ engine... its running the 8 sec barrier too... so its ahhh... ahhh.............pretty fast car"

    haha

    ---------- Post added at 10:02 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:55 AM ----------

    i didnt think oil was that vitall... geeeezzz.. nice

    running to shop to get Nulon.. want my 6kw !! haha or more as i will be running home brand mazda oil at moment haha

    how do you flush an engine of oil ?

    BLACK 06 MPS3 - HKS SRi/K&N - SU REM - TWM STS & Bushings - Custom MP

  3. #3

    Default

    I want this oil too.

    Mr G, you drain the oil, fill the engine with the new oil, then run it, then drain it, then fill it with oil again. Or you can buy engine flush fluid.



    Disclaimer: I'm not a mechanic though, I will stand correct if I'm wrong though, but, this is the way I do it.

  4. #4

    Default

    I'd advise caution in interpreting this test. Oil does a lot of things for an engine other than allowing it make more power. It lubricates, cools and carries contaminants away, among other things.

    The only reason one oil makes more power than another brand is that it flows more easily and therefore puts less demand on the oil pump, allowing a couple of spare kw to go to the crank. But if you think about what's happening at the molecular level it's possible that the oil with the best flow characteristics is also going to be the first oil that breaks down under heat and/or pressure and lets your engine damage itself.

    You could interpret this test (because we're not talking about mineral oil) as saying that Mobil 1 is the safest oil for your engine, and given that Mobil has put more into developing their synthetic oils than all the others put together I wouldn't doubt it. Nulon has been involved in controversy too many times for me to trust my engine to them. In a race car where the oil is changed before and after every race there's no harm in chasing the kw. But the same doesn't apply to a road car where the oil change interval is a lot longer. I'll stick to Castrol. A good safe performer at a realistic price.

    BTW it's difficult to get all the old oil out of our engines because the balance shaft assembly holds a lot of oil. A flush can be a good idea if you want a truly fresh belly full.
    Last edited by kmh001; 13-06-2009 at 11:18 AM.

    Gone to Volvo


  5. #5

    Default

    i found this article linked on another forum that may also be of intrest

    http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

  6. #6

    Default

    Here's another example of gaining power with better flowing oil.

    This was a stockish small-cam A9L V8 we built in 1993. We ran-in the engine on Roy Goodman's engine dyno using mineral oil. After the rings were sealed we did a power run and recorded the numbers (left). Then we dropped the oil and filled it back up with Mobil 1 and did another power run about 5 minutes after the first one (right).

    The greatest difference was at 6000 rpm where we gained 8hp. Not bad for just an oil change.


    Gone to Volvo


  7. #7
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    Default Oils aint Oils

    Quote Originally Posted by kmh001 View Post
    I'd advise caution in interpreting this test. Oil does a lot of things for an engine other than allowing it make more power. It lubricates, cools and carries contaminants away, among other things.

    The only reason one oil makes more power than another brand is that it flows more easily and therefore puts less demand on the oil pump, allowing a couple of spare kw to go to the crank. But if you think about what's happening at the molecular level it's possible that the oil with the best flow characteristics is also going to be the first oil that breaks down under heat and/or pressure and lets your engine damage itself.

    You could interpret this test (because we're not talking about mineral oil) as saying that Mobil 1 is the safest oil for your engine, and given that Mobil has put more into developing their synthetic oils than all the others put together I wouldn't doubt it. Nulon has been involved in controversy too many times for me to trust my engine to them. In a race car where the oil is changed before and after every race there's no harm in chasing the kw. But the same doesn't apply to a road car where the oil change interval is a lot longer. I'll stick to Castrol. A good safe performer at a realistic price.

    BTW it's difficult to get all the old oil out of our engines because the balance shaft assembly holds a lot of oil. A flush can be a good idea if you want a truly fresh belly full.
    Congratulations, a very well written and accurate response to an oil addative. From an ex-TAFE Auto teachers perspective, what you say is spot on. Having taught and used dynamometers for 30 years, I have little faith in Dyno results. Dyno's are really only good as a before and after measuring tool.The operator has the ability to produce or interpret the results as they wish. I for one will stick with - would you believe "Valvoline" all the tests and info I have procured for teaching proves Valvoline does exactly what it is supposed to do, that is - clean cool and lubricate. Others such as Castrol and Mobil are all good. Why pay more for a product that does the same job?

  8. #8

    Default

    That's the first time one of my posts has been graded. I'm glad I passed

    It's really good to have your wisdom and experience on the forum. We need guys like you to provide balance to the myths that marketing people constantly propagate in order to manufacture demand for dodgey after market gear.

  9. #9
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kmh001 View Post
    It's really good to have your wisdom and experience on the forum. We need guys like you to provide balance to the myths that marketing people constantly propagate in order to manufacture demand for dodgey after market gear.
    +1 to that!

    My question is why the Motul posted a higher power output on it's 2nd run, whereas all the other posted lower outputs?

    Interesting though!
    R36 - Just like an MPS6 except with a growly V6

  10. #10
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    Default

    Id stick with the mobil1 or royal purple.. though one oil I have used before that is highly regarded among the turbo pulsar owners (which I have actually used before) www.neosyntheticoil.com
    Ive previously bought it from Gerard over at GCCorp..
    GC Corp Performance Parts

  11. #11
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    Default

    I have been using Valvoline Dura Blend 15w50 for a good few years now with good results. I must admit though that I used Castrol Magnatec on the VXSS that I had before the MPS6. Just by the way, new pistons at 17,000 under warranty in the VXSS - nothing to do with oil. Prior to the VXSS I had a Nissan 200SX and the son had a Pulsar GTiR both of these ran on Valvoline Durablend - 180,000 kilometres on the GTiR and no signs of oil use. That's a pretty good result on such a highly modified beast.

  12. #12

    Default Help!

    Hi guys, I'm due for my 10,000 kays service, and have just found out that the Mazda service centre that I have intended to go uses a semi-synthetic oil. As far as I understand, it's best that I go for a fully synthetic oil, right? And any fully synthetic oil from either Valvoline, Castrol and Mobil will be suffice? Should I just go for the cheapest one? Which one's the best bang-for-your-bucks, so to speak?

  13. #13
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Q-ship View Post
    Hi guys, I'm due for my 10,000 kays service, and have just found out that the Mazda service centre that I have intended to go uses a semi-synthetic oil. As far as I understand, it's best that I go for a fully synthetic oil, right? And any fully synthetic oil from either Valvoline, Castrol and Mobil will be suffice? Should I just go for the cheapest one? Which one's the best bang-for-your-bucks, so to speak?
    Valvoline Durablend as the name states is semi-synthetic that I have used for some time with good results. I don't know technically of any valid reason for using fully synthetic oil. The choice of oils is really just personal preference, the real world reality is that if you change the oil within the specified oil interval you will never have any problems. All oils have to comply with an Australian standard and a SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) rating. If one oil is rated the same as another eg: you would get the same protection from home brand oils as any other brand with the same rating. Not that I would use home brand
    All I am saying is why pay absolute top dollar for an oil when in most cases as evident in the posts that as car enthusiasts our oil changes are more frequent than necessary.

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