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Thread: Replacement Engine Mounts

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Hamilton, New Zealand
    Posts
    16

    Default Replacement Engine Mounts

    So, my 09 MPS3 is due for new engine mounts with 60K on the clock. From what I read this is common for MPS's at around this mileage? After reading pages and pages about aftermarket mounts it seems there is always going to be a compromise between a better mount and cabin vibration.
    I think at this stage I will just replace the mounts with OEM ones this time around unless someone can talk me out of it.

    Can anyone confirm if the MPS3 mounts are the same as a standard Mazda 3?

    Is there a better source to purchase genuine mounts from rather than my local dealership?

  2. #2

    Default

    Seriously doubt they would be the same as a normal 3. You could always try the cpe S2 mount, or that e-focus mount the yanks like so much. Or this new one http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/foru...ts-rmm-169353/


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  3. #3

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    I have the e-focus rmm and a jbr 70 duro rmm.

    Quote Originally Posted by Brissy_MPS3 View Post
    Ok I got home from my work trip this morning and had a look at this mount. It is a fair bit stiffer than the stock Mazda mount (which you can flex the rubber with your thumb). The Ford one took a lot of pressure to move it.

    Didn't come with the horizontal bolt and the Mazda one didn't fit as threads were different. Went down to the hardware store with mount in hand, the bolt to get is a M12 thread bolt.

    Installed the mount - what a pain in the ass compared to the stock and JBR mount. This one must be slightly bigger as it was pretty difficult to get the bolts to line up. Had absolutely no issues doing this with the other mounts.

    Got it in, torqued everything up to 80 ft/lbs and took the car for a spin and readjusted the shifter linkage.

    Shifting feel - same as JBR 70 duro mount except the clutch action. With the JBR mount, it was pretty much all or nothing. With the stock mount it was very forgiving with the clutch. This Ford mount is the same, very forgiving. The shifts are almost rifle bolt precise, like the JBR mount. Also have a JBR SSP set at 20% reduction and the shifter bushings installed. Tranny oil is Castrol Syntrans.

    NVH - negligible increase. No rattles, no vibes even at low rpms with engine labouring. Feels the same as stock in terns of rattles and vibes, ie absolutely nothing. Engine noise is slightly louder but that's it. You honestly won't be able to pick it that this mount is in.

    Torque steer - with the JBR mount, the torque steer is still there but is only slightly noticeable. With the Ford mount I'd say its close to the JBR one, but not quite the same. The improvement over stock is pretty good.

    All up, this mount is a good compromise and sits somewhere between the stock mount and the JBR mount, but closer to the JBR end.

    Very happy.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    262

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Douganator View Post
    So, my 09 MPS3 is due for new engine mounts with 60K on the clock. From what I read this is common for MPS's at around this mileage? After reading pages and pages about aftermarket mounts it seems there is always going to be a compromise between a better mount and cabin vibration.
    I think at this stage I will just replace the mounts with OEM ones this time around unless someone can talk me out of it.

    Can anyone confirm if the MPS3 mounts are the same as a standard Mazda 3?

    Is there a better source to purchase genuine mounts from rather than my local dealership?
    Most aftermarket engine mounts vibrations seem to disapear after 300-500km (general consensus after my research) except for the 88 duro ( my understanding) I've only had my jbr 80 duro in for a 120kms so still some noticeable vibration but I don't really think it's that bad at all. I would be still be happy if it stayed as is.
    Corksport SRI// Corksport TIP// Race Pipe//​ Turbosmart BPV// Resonator Delete// JBR 80a RMM// Autotech HPFP// Cobb AP V3// HDI GT2 FMIC// ​NGK LTR7IX-11// Simota 360* Filter// Eonon GM5151-With Back Up Cam// ​RaydTuned

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    9,459

    Default

    Get aftermarket rear engine mount, but stay stock on the sides.

    Try online Mazda parts, or @LittleredMPS for the stock ones he knows some people

  6. #6

    Default

    Go the CS bottom race mount, transmission insert and replace the top engine mount (oil filled) with stock. Don't change this top one to aftermarket.

  7. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by OzCJ View Post
    Go the CS bottom race mount, transmission insert and replace the top engine mount (oil filled) with stock. Don't change this top one to aftermarket.
    Truth. Both rear mounts feel pretty stock after the break in period. We also have a 70 duro insert for the rear that fits in the factory mount. The transmission mount insert will not have any noticeable effect on vibrations. Our passenger mount will be very noticeable.
    Cheers,
    Brandon Johnson
    CorkSport Mazda Performance
    (360)260-2675 ext. 106
    BrandonJ@corksport.com


    CorkSport.Com

  8. Default

    One can only guess that you probably dont drive the car as hard as some here if you warrant going back to OEM and will be content in doing so.
    However,
    If you want the car to be quite surprisingly different in shift feel and driveability, then go a soft aftermarket REM with OEM sides. 70 or 80 duro, intial vibes may not even be there, but if so are minimal and die down after a few hundred kms.

  9. #9

    Default

    I had (still have in the shed) a jbr 70 duro rmm.

    Vibed like crazy, settled down a little bit but still too much for dd city driving. Took it out and reinstalled it with my deflecting beam torque wrench to spec.

    The mount did settle down a little bit, but I wonder if people simply overstate it to convince themselves that it was a good thing. I took it out again as the dash was rattling too much and the missus started to get cranky with it. And it takes a lot to piss her off. Trust me, I know where the boundaries lie

    The e-focus mount I have is almost just as good, without the vibes. Who knows how long it will last but at least I don't get crazy torque steer and sloppy shifts when giving it a caning, compared to the stock mount.
    Last edited by Brissy_MPS3; 10-07-2014 at 03:24 PM.

  10. Default

    OP, is it your mount failing or just the rubber bushing? The bushing is replaceable and it will be as harsh as the full mount set up.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Hamilton, New Zealand
    Posts
    16

    Default

    I have just installed the CP-E 60 Duro mount and the whole car is vibrating REALLY BAD. I removed the mount and refitted to check my install is correct. What the !!! It feels like the engine is bolted solid to the chassis. When starting up the car it looks like the engine is trying to jump out from under the bonnet. This can not be good right?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    9,459

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Douganator View Post
    I have just installed the CP-E 60 Duro mount and the whole car is vibrating REALLY BAD. I removed the mount and refitted to check my install is correct. What the !!! It feels like the engine is bolted solid to the chassis. When starting up the car it looks like the engine is trying to jump out from under the bonnet. This can not be good right?
    The rear or sides?
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Hamilton, New Zealand
    Posts
    16

    Default

    Oh sorry, it's the one under the car (rear I guess)


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  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Hamilton, New Zealand
    Posts
    16

    Default

    Seems I may have wasted $200. I can't leave it like this.


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  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    auckland NZ
    Posts
    173

    Default

    give it about 500km...i have the JBR 80 duro on my 6 and it has settled down nicley

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Down South
    Age
    40
    Posts
    318

    Default

    Yep what kiwi said, has to be given time to settle in, 500-1000km should see vibes back to slightly above stock levels

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Canberra
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    9,459

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kiwi View Post
    give it about 500km...i have the JBR 80 duro on my 6 and it has settled down nicley
    this ^

    if it's brand new, it'll vibrate a bit... but shouldn't be too crazy...
    was it a stage 1 or stage 2?
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Hamilton, New Zealand
    Posts
    16

    Default

    Stage 1 and it's very bad. It has the same feel as when you labour the engine at take off


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  19. Default

    Feel ur pain brother.. I got a cpe st2 rmm for my 3 MPS and it vibrated like a bitch. Now i knew that this would happen and gave it 2000ks to settle down but it just didnt get any better. If the car is stock, do urself a favour and just get another factory one and flog the other mount off on ebay. My car is far from stock and thats what i did. No more vibes. Since replacing it with another stock item ive done another 35000ks and no probs what so ever. Good luck with whatever u decide to do

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    auckland NZ
    Posts
    173

    Default

    is it tourqued to the right spec?

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