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Thread: bringing new(used) car up to scratch

  1. Default bringing new(used) car up to scratch

    Ive had my 07 mps 3 for 10 days now. Its got 53xxx and was last serviced a year ago at 41xxx. It was the 2.5 year or 50k service.(got the logbook).

    The maintenance schedule thread shows that the 40k service completed about 2 years ago includes brake fluid and gearbox oil so they should be ok, but given my car is over 7 years old I think I should prolly do both a radiator flush/refill and the plugs even tho they not due till 80 and 100xxx respectivly correct?

    The air filter is due to be replaced too but im keen on an SRI anyway. Other than that there doesnt seem to be any more parts or fluid required untill "body fuel pump" at 150xxx or 7.5 years-should i do that now too?

    I cant find any mention of a fuel filter at all! whats the go there? And no mention of timing chain either, surely that is part of scheduled maintenance ussualy around 100xxx?

    While im still getting used to driving it, i feel theres a good chance one or more of my engine mounts are stuffed as i seem to get the odd clunk when changing gear especially 1st-2nd. Also the front brake discs are quite badly lipped on the edges so likely they can go too. Wheel balance and alignment wouldnt hurt either.

    Anything ive missed?

  2. #2

    Default

    Fuel filter is I think 150000km and I would also change gearbox fluid too with some fully synthetic fluid not the mazda stuff
    Last edited by chef; 27-01-2014 at 11:27 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Armadale, Melbourne
    Posts
    968

    Default

    Timing chain according to Mazda would last the life of the car - however, there have been instances the tensioner pulley, VVT pulley and the chain loosening leading to engine issues. Just search around the thread for videos of what the engine sounds like on startup to know when to start looking at changing the timing chain.

    Have a look at your rear engine mount. If it hasnt' been changed, consider changing to an aftermarket one - not the OEM mazda BS. This rear engine mount is the weaklink in the MPS3 gear changes. Should improve that dramatically.

  4. Default

    the 'body fuel pump' is obviously rhe fuel filter...Duh. Given its not due for close to another 100xxx do u think its worth doing yet? and the plugs?

    Now this gearbox.... seems to b a bit sh!t.. Id allready read a bunch about their issues but mine felt fine ok, if a bit notchy. But ive had the car over two weeks now and im STILL kind of clunking her into gear a lot and last night i had a major grind on a high rpm shift. 2nd- 3rd, pretty fast shift. GB was warm although mine doesnt feel much different warm or cold...

    Loaded her up in again in 2nd to about 5000rpm and tried again but a little slower, same result. I don't recall the word I used but I was not happy. Drove the car maybe 75km today and it was fine although I have drastically slowed down my shifting, especially 2nd-3rd

    This is all evidence of a stuffed rear engine mount yes? I read a thread about some bloke whos gb was so bad on 1-2 his mech told him he needed a rebuild but in the end an adjustment to the "shifter cable" was all that was needed. Another possibility?

    On another note, this forum is infuriating to use. My tablet barely works with it, and even on the pc like now it takes an hr to writea short post cos its so glitchy!!!! Anyoneelse get this?
    Last edited by rocker21; 02-02-2014 at 12:16 AM. Reason: bustedmsgboardhatesmytablet

  5. #5

    Default

    a 70d plus REM will make a word of difference to the shifting.
    In general the MPS gearbox is very strong just not the most smoothe shifting

  6. #6

    Default

    It's fine to leave the fuel pump later, but definitely worth changing the spark plug. As for if it's a stuffed rear engine mount, the only real way to tell, is to jack the car up and stick your head under to check. (visual check is enough to tell if it's stuffed or not) as you have researched, the notchy gear change can be due to that few reason, so I would in the following order to find the solution 1) check rear mount 2) change gearbox oil 3) adjust the shift link point. If all these don't work, maybe check out others MPS3 and see if it's the same.....? (coz it might just be the way it comes with)

    Hope this helps.

    Oh, have no problem with the forum on tablet.
    When in doubt, power out....of control.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Armadale, Melbourne
    Posts
    968

    Default

    +1 as per lovecolt

    Sometimes a change in the rear mount is all it needs. If you check and its still a stock rear mount - change it to aftermarket even though it ain't busted

    With the forums - no problems with it. This post took me all but 2 mins. What browser are you using on pc/tablet? Use google chrome if you can get it.

  8. #8

    Default

    There is heaps on the forum about common issues and wear items on the mps.

    However, a quick rundown of likely replacement items is this:

    1. Rear engine mount
    2. Spark plugs
    3. Brake fluid (12 monthly at most for this)
    4. Clean MAF sensor (Any C02 cleaner is fine for this)
    5. Check Transmission side mount for damage (Preventative)
    6. Front strut top bearing bushes (These are plastic and tend to fail after 25-30k km)
    7. Front sway bar "D" bushes
    8. Remove intake manifold, TMIC, and throttle body, and clean inside (Recommended)
    9. Check turbo for excessive shaft play and do the turbo seal smoke test (Preventative)

    That should do for a start lol.
    MPS is gone. Ghey Trail enabled....Not Happy. MPS 6 to come

  9. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by LittleredMPS View Post
    There is heaps on the forum about common issues and wear items on the mps.

    However, a quick rundown of likely replacement items is this:

    1. Rear engine mount
    2. Spark plugs
    3. Brake fluid (12 monthly at most for this)
    4. Clean MAF sensor (Any C02 cleaner is fine for this)
    5. Check Transmission side mount for damage (Preventative)
    6. Front strut top bearing bushes (These are plastic and tend to fail after 25-30k km)
    7. Front sway bar "D" bushes
    8. Remove intake manifold, TMIC, and throttle body, and clean inside (Recommended)
    9. Check turbo for excessive shaft play and do the turbo seal smoke test (Preventative)

    That should do for a start lol.
    there is, and i search here a lot, yet i still hadnt picked up on a few things you listed. Much appreciated.

  10. #10

    Default

    Which one u didn't picked up on?

  11. Default

    6 and 7. maybe 5 as well

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